Tools,Skills,Materials, & Process Required To Fab A Bike

xyster

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Let's say I want to follow the footsteps of some others here and fabricate my own bike from aluminum or steel, or perform a major ICE-ectomy and E-transplant procedure on a gasser. I've diligently read other people's build threads, but don't have a good grasp yet.

Which tools do I need for what jobs?

Which tools might I need that I should have on hand?

What skills do I need, and can I teach myself these skills online and through practice at home? Or is a vocational instruction setting better?

Where's some good online sites to buy the construction materials?

What's the general, abbreviated process, from construction material selection to the finishing touches?
 
you will definetly need a welder, you dont need a big expensive one 65 amps will do fine, you wont need to use anything but 3/32" rods for most any kind of small vehicle frame. ive seen AC arc welders on ebay for under $50 that were 65A i think. you shouldnt have a hard time learning to weld with 6011 rods, the flux is really thin and you can see the weld puddle perfectly. as for the other stuff youre gonna need a way to cut and shape the material, i got by with a reciprocating saw and a 4" angle grinder but its a real pain in the ass. it would be better to have at least a metal cutting chop saw or an acetylene cutting torch. you will probably need a drill press also. another thing to have is plenty of ROOM, i built my ebike and minibike in my cramped basement will hardly any room to move around.
 
If you want to weld aluminum, you'll need a TIG welder. I really like using the Miller Dynasty. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_200_series/
I used to have a Miller Econo TIG, and it was a real nasty machine for aluminum due to not having A/C balance, or a pulser.

For light duty steel and stainless welding the lunchbox inverter machines are hard to beat. Bonus points for running on 110v if your garage isn't wired for 220v or 3 phase.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/maxstar_150_sth/

Watch the various auto and motorcycle fabrication shows on TV, and that should give you a good idea of what's involved. How big is your garage?
 
Before buying any welding equipment I'd suggest looking around for an evening class that teaches basic welding skills and lets you try out the various methods for yourself. They all have different advantages and drawbacks, but there is also a big element of personal preference. Some people find one technique works much better for them than the others. You'll also be able to pick up tips on which is the best equipment for your particular needs, and where to buy it.

TIG (tungsten inert gas), like Lowell says, produces the best quality welds in a wide variety of materials, but decent TIG equipment is relatively expensive.

For what it's worth, I built my trike and motorcycle subframe using a MIG welder, grinder, power drill, hacksaw and a collection of files. It doesn't take a lot of equipment if you're not in a hurry :)
 
As far as welding goes, it might be a good idea to try a few processes out. A few of the local shops also run classes, and that can probably be found in any major city. One thing is for sure though, and that is if you become a decent welder, there will be no shortage of people that want to be your friend! Some of them will even give you money :lol:

Another thing you can do is rent equipment. Take some classes to learn, and then rent a good machine to do your project. If money is a concern, I'd rather rent a nice machine than own a mediocre one. Used brand name equipment can be found for suprisingly good deals, especially on entry level machines as users outgrow them.

ESAB makes some quality equipment for less coin than 'big blue'
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p002830.htm

I've never tried one of these, but I'd imagine it would be like buying the cheapest of cheap dollar store bicycles.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
 
If you are going to build in steel an oxy-acetylene gas set might be a better investment.
Easy to use and self teach, visual signs if the joint is not correct, can heat and move a joint, also the heat will allow bending/flaring of tubing etc.
In my experience a poorly done weld which may look ok is far more likely to fail with no warning.
For alot more info go here and do an advanced search of the homebuilder section for the topic and settle in for the evening. The search function only operates from the Main page.
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/forumdisplay.php?f=1

What I want is a gasless mig that can weld aluminium strongly. I would perfer not to have to bother with a gas shield.
It is not a contradition to the above as work allows me to use the company oxy set and they look after the gas.:)
 
http://www.bikewebsite.com/weld.htm

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq__tig_vs__gas.php

I think the last time I did any gas welding was in school, and my acetylene tank has been collecting dust in my shop for years. Gas welding does seem to have a following with the older crowd though, much like steel bicycle frames.
 
Lowell said:
Gas welding does seem to have a following with the older crowd though, much like steel bicycle frames.

I learned to weld back in 1979. A lot has changed in the profession since then and I would agree that the newer techniques are superior to the old. (I still own the old welder, so what the heck, I'll keep using it) You do get the advantage of having complete control of the temperature of the metal and it's a more organic process in that you can actually use welding rod to build up areas and then use the heat to melt everything into new metal. It has a very artistic feel when you use gas. (you would expect artists doing metal sculptures to use gas... it's very free form)

But on the negative side the gas needs to be replaced regularly. Full tanks cost me $65 (just for the gas) and I've gone through three refills so far. (in total for both projects) So over the long term the gas is not cheaper than the electric options. You are also limited to steel alone as your material.

My "quick teaching tips" would be:

:arrow: 1. Start by igniting the acetylene first and then slowly increase the oxygen until the two flames merge into one. It's at the exact point of convergence that you are at the right setting. You'll know what I mean when you try it.

:arrow: 2. The best welds use as much heat as you can get away with without making the metal go crazy on you.

Ideally you want to "weld hot - weld fast".

:arrow: 3. Welding rod acts as a lubricant when things are hot and it also acts like a coolant. So if you are skilled at adding the welding rod you can use a lot of heat and not destroy everything.

:arrow: 4. Cheap mild steel when heated expands and then contracts to a smaller size than before. This produces warping. If you spend a little more money and get better steel (4130) this is less of a problem.
 
Welding aluminum takes quite a bit of skill and an expensive welder.
Steel is much easier to learn, but either way, a lot of practice is a good idea before you work on something that will hurt you if a weld fails.

Brazing on steel is amazingly strong if done properly. This is easier than welding and avoids much of the warping because the steel never melts.

Since I don't own a welder, I prefer to avoid it altogether and try to use bolts whenever possible. If I really want something welded, I get the pieces fitted up and take it to a professional welder.
 
What's the general, abbreviated process, from construction material selection to the finishing touches

a. Go to scrapyard and collect lots of old bike frames
b. Cut out the lengths of tube that look strong enough for your intended purpose
c. Shape ends of tubes using grinder and files (or more sophisticated methods) to create neat intersections (known as fishmouthing)
c. Weld tubes together in a configuration that is pleasing to the eye
d. Grind ugly bits off welds and reweld until not so ugly (this stage may be repeated if you enjoy it)
e. Wire brush all welds
f. Ask gullible large relative to test your creation; if it breaks goto step (a) and choose bigger tube in step (b)
g. If it doesn't break, paint frame in bright colour, add go-faster duct tape and post photos on endless sphere
:D
 
I've welded using gas and arc and arc is a LOT easier to learn but the easiest and least expensive method which will produce the best job is to cut all the pieces to the correct length and take them to a professional welder with all the joints well marked. I have all the confidence in the world I can weld a bicycle frame (steel) but simply don't have enough call to own a welder, especially when there are a dozen professionals within ten miles of where I live.

Cutting is easy and inexpensive. A used chop saw (miter saw) and a metal cutting blade will cut most anything and cut it at an angle. A new grinder is inexpensive and Harbor Freight ships anywhere and is getting more and more retail outlets. They, for the most part, are Chinese tools but for the homeowner and light tradesman do a good job for the money. They also have inexpensive welders if you go that route.

Electric drills are a different animal. You definitely get what you pay for but Sears is still good enough. Spend your money on quality bits and a decent drill will do the job.

By having a pro do the welding you save the learning curve, get a good job and don't have to store or resell the equipment. If you don't know a welder or one you can trust simply call the closest welding supply store and they will likely give you recommendations. I'm pushing this method because welding eats up money. Goggles/masks, gloves, aprons, clamps, benches and alway the potential for injury or fire are all things you don't need for anything else.

Same with files, a good file will last a lifetime, a cheap one won't last at all and won't do a good job. A white or yellow crayon/pencil is imperative as is a good imagination.

BUT, building your own frame is most of the time reinventing the wheel. Unless you have something in mind that can't be modified from an existing frame the easiest and best way is to modify. Building a front end is a special skill and you will still need to buy parts. Watch a couple editions of American Chopper and you'll see what they build and what they buy. These guys are pros and until recently bought their frames and still buy the standard frames. They buy all their front ends.

Good luck, you're facing great challenges, tremendous learning curves and a lot of potential fun. You are already a self taught battery expert and I have confidence you can learn the rest.

Oh, one more thing you'll need. Something I call "stickability". This means when everything turns to shit, and it will, you simply brush off and do it again. One thing I do every time I go into my shop (wood working and automotive home shop) is count my fingers. If I have ten when I go in I try really hard to have ten when I come out.

Oh, still one more thing. Until you have experienced burnt eyes you can't appreciate pain. Welding will burn your eyes. Bad. I've toted several experienced welders in my ambulances who burned them and didn't even know it for several hours. The problem is, for novice welders, is you can't see with the goggles on and don't know where to put the stick. So, you cheat thinking you can get the goggles down before the arc is bright enough to hurt you. Can't be done. Gas or Arc, your eyes will burn. I only have two and want to keep both of them, they are already old and I need them to get older.

Good luck,
Mike
 
Thanks guys, keep the info comin' if you can. I'm presently working on my wheel (Chillin' wit da Whee-L !) but plan to keep this thread for reference and go over it next time I need to build something out of something besides wood and duct-tape. Guessing this'll all be useful to a few other people too...
 
This is the helmet I use most of the time:
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/weldinghelmets/elite.php#

Large viewing window, and 4 sensors. My other dual sensor helmet would sometimes not darken when striking an arc in the intersection of two tubes, due to shadows. As usual, you get what you pay for.

If you have bright lighting in your welding area you'll have no trouble seeing details with a shade 4 lens on which will eliminate any potential flashing.
 
mvadventure said:
Oh, one more thing you'll need. Something I call "stickability". This means when everything turns to shit, and it will, you simply brush off and do it again.

That's a very solid truth. Your emotions can take over when things don't go perfectly and it can make you want to give up. But the thing that keeps you going is that once you've had a "win" where you've built something that is what you had dreamed of and it works out then that memory of success sticks with you through all the bad times. Sometimes the project you are working on "feels" like a living hell and a disaster, but then all of a sudden you get to a point of completion and all the imperfections seem to disappear. You WANTED perfection... but as long as your slight imperfects don't effect the result in any significant way you all of a sudden feel at peace with all your mistakes.

When the final result is achieved (often when previous incarnations failed) it seems like "magic"... and that's what you remember... :D
 
mvadventure said:
BUT, building your own frame is most of the time reinventing the wheel. Unless you have something in mind that can't be modified from an existing frame the easiest and best way is to modify.

I know in my case that there were no frames available that:

:arrow: 1. Had a 52" wheelbase. (required for serious speed and handling)

:arrow: 2. Was extremely rigid (as a long wheelbase bike) while being able to handle potentially 60 lbs of batteries and a 10 lb motor as well as a 185 lb rider and do some serious cornering with huge tires that give tons of traction. (enough to break spokes :roll: )

:arrow: 3. Could hold the batteries inside the frame.
 
When I was talking about Oxy I meant for bronzing/brazing as pointed out less heat.
I have a friend that builds expensive touring bikes for a living and it's what he uses and he offers a lifetime warranty on the frames.
Standard arc welders are very difficult to use on thin tubing (they blow holes through them) ie. old light weight bikes from the tip shop, mig and tig are easier on thin tubing and all welding can cause warping, always tack lightly all the way around a larger weld area before completing (only applies to light bike type frames).
Only other essential gear is a drill, hack saw, file and an angle grinder even a small hand held one will speed things up.
Oh one last thing Lowell, even outside in bright sunlight I can not see through my face sheild well enough to align jobs properly (my jobs tend to be smaller tight ones), a self darkening one would be a wise investment for a noobie to arc, mig welding
 
If you're using an old school one-shade helmet, then that's understandable. I was saying that I can see details just fine through a shade 4, which darkens to a 9-13 when I strike an arc. Even if you get flashed with a shade 4, it won't hurt your eyes compared to a clear lense.
 
I think this is a good time to warn everyone that welding aluminum is difficult. I tried it with my $200 MIG welder that said it was able to handle aluminum, but it was crap.

I even bought the "aluminum kit," but there was no chance of it working. Aluminum is too soft of a metal to force that thin wire through the tube to the gun. It always malfunctioned.

I read that you should use a powerful welder (he mentioned 200 amps). Mine is 70 amps. It just made a little stain on the metal before binding each time.

I'm going to have to resort to a pro.
 
I used to do a lot of steel MIG welding as a mechanic, and Beagle123 is right, you really can't MIG aluminum in most cases. TIG welding Aluminum is the way to go for anything that has to bear significant loads.
 
they make aluminum arc rods, ive never tried them theyre about $6 at sears. they probably work like crap, nothing beats tig, although it is still a lot harder welding aluminum than steel even with tig because the heat transfers through the metal so fast, it oxidizes so readily, and it doesnt change color when it melts just gets shiny. if i had the money though id get a tig for myself, its so nice to use because you can make such precise welds and make them perfect on very small parts too.
 
Beagle123 said:
I think this is a good time to warn everyone that welding aluminum is difficult. I tried it with my $200 MIG welder that said it was able to handle aluminum, but it was crap.

I even bought the "aluminum kit," but there was no chance of it working. Aluminum is too soft of a metal to force that thin wire through the tube to the gun. It always malfunctioned.

I read that you should use a powerful welder (he mentioned 200 amps). Mine is 70 amps. It just made a little stain on the metal before binding each time.

I'm going to have to resort to a pro.

Actually Mig isn't the problem it's the cheap welders that PUSH the wire through the cable to the gun, whereas NICE mig welders have a seperate feed box, and can have spool guns which work phenomenally with aluminum and argon.

The real difficulty with aluminum is getting and keeping the surfaces perfectly free and clean of contamination as aluminum sucks up contamination like nobodies business and ends up with a crappy alloy generally.

And just so ya know most / ALL aluminum welded boats are welded with a Mig welder.

What you can do with Tig a lot better than MIG is make smaller finer welds that are just as strong as big uglyer mig welds, having the rod to feed into the puddle allows for a very fine weld!
 
I was just going to mention that some of the big industrial jobs I've been on have been all MIG'd aluminum. As for bicycles though, I'm pretty sure all I've ever seen is TIG welds.
 
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