Urban Kick Around Build

H2Guy

100 mW
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
45
A friend asked me to add power assist to her 21 speed bike she kicks around the neighbourhood and some mild trails with the family. Am going with a 350W 36V Bafang rear hub with 22A controller, S866 display and 10ah pack build. Not much to share yet but the parts are on order and I’m building the pack and designing the enclosure(s) for 3D printing to fit the frame while I wait. Have done a couple of custom EVs (quad conversion and single rider golf cart) but this is my first bike. Breaking some new ground for me including lacing a bike wheel and some of the largest 3D prints I’ve attempted … I have a long Canadian winter to get it all sorted out.
 

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Tight space, but for a 10s2p of 2170 cells I bet you can squeeeeze it in that frame "triangle".

3D printing for case/holders is a fun process; good luck!
 
Making progress
- battery/controller enclosure designed and printed (yes she wanted a rocket on the side). Going to be tight once all the wiring comes in to terminate so hoping I don't have to push the controller to a separate enclosure. This is as big as the bike triangle can accommodate
- battery build underway 10s4P Sony VCT4 so approx 8ah and well within the nominal performance parameters for these cells with a 20A controller. Spot welding and bms + wrapper remains

Everything except the spokes have arrived so it's finish the battery bench testing next.
 

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Controller inside the battery case could be a heat generator right next to those cells there.
 
Good point and it has me a little concerned as well. I’m planning on keeping the side cover off and road testing how much heat will be generated inside the box under different conditions before I finalize everything. Based on the intended rider I suspect it’s not a problem but need to design for worst case.
 
If the controller is typical with the big fat dropping resistor in the LVPS section, it will generate at least a few watts of heat right there.

The FETs will also create significant waste heat from both switching and resistive losses. Let's just give a round number of perhaps 5W of heat from each phase bridge, so call it 15W of heat. (actual losses depend on FETs used (RDSon, how they're driven by the controller, etc), system voltage, actual usage at any moment, current flow, etc)

So you could have 20W or more of heat generated within the controller during use.

To give some comparison, a soldering iron only needs around 15w to be effective at melting the metal solder. ;) (when in contact with it, to be sure, but if you were to enclose the iron in a small box the box and anything in it would heat up fairly rapidly)

So putting the controller in an enclosure of it's own will trap all that heat within the controller, which will heat the parts within it more than they are intended to be, and age them more quickly than if it were out in the airflow as it is designed to be (there is a reason the casing is a heatsink; but the heatsink can't get rid of heat if there is nowhere for it to go).

If it's in an enclosure with something else, the something else will also be heated; this will help the controller for a while (until everything reaches equilibrium), but it may not be helpful to the something else, depending on how much heat is generated, what that equilibrium temperature is, and what the something else is and how well it can take that heat.


If the controller enclosure is itself a heatsink that does have outside air exposure, and the controller is bolted to it such that it passes as much of it's heat to it as rapidly as possible, it will help mitigate the above problems.


If your controller doesn't generate that much heat, or isn't used very hard or very much, and temperatures are low enough, it might not be an issue.
 
Battery and box is finished. Decided to move the controller onto the seat post as space was just a little too tight for comfort and there was plenty of caution offered from the forum on heat in the enclosed space.

Bench testing all the parts proved out so now just waiting for the spokes and I can lace the hub (never done this before so am sure I’ll make a mess of it while YouTube teaches me some tricks).

Shouldn’t take long for final assembly once the wheel is sorted.
 

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Completed the wheel lacing and endless efforts as a rookie to true-it-up. I got it pretty close so fitted everything on the frame and took it for it's first road test. All seems to be working as expected but will have to play with the S866 display to configure all the parameters. The motor/battery combo easily moves my 175lbs and this relatively heavy bike around without any difficulty.

Full disclosure - Despite discussions to the opposite, I've put the controller in the battery box and fitted it with a temp probe for testing. Plan to ride it pretty hard and see how much heat is generated before I go off and design another enclosure just for the controller. I tried several configurations and don't like the positioning or look of any of them so I'm hoping this works out.

A little snow on the ground and -1C. Will have to consider the operating temperature range as I test out the heat within the enclosure - might have to hang onto it until spring and enjoy some extended testing :)
 

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Finished!
Added a temperature monitor and cut off to the enclosure and tested with a 15k run of hills and cruising with no issue. Bike seems to be performing as expected with the original design parameters. I struggled lacing the wheel and could never get it properly aligned in a 2 or 1 cross pattern - newbie issues I’m sure. Decided to go radial and given the owner’s riding style this should be just fine.
 

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