Guys, most of what's been said on this topic above is above my pay grade. That in mind, I recently ordered a MAC 12t that I plan on swapping into my KT equipped bike (currently equipped with a 1500w DD). Shortly after ordering from em3ev, I received the following note, which I hope will provide me with enough guidance where my install goes reasonably smooth (when I get to it!). Thought I'd send it along here thinking maybe it will provide somebody with some necessary back ground or a new idea to complete this install that seems to be problematic-
"We realized you didn’t order the controller, please note that there is no standard for motor or controller colour codes.
Hall and Phase Combinations
http://www.lsdzs.com/e/images/image053.png
Phase/Hall Combo Info
Please be aware that there is no standard for motor or controller colour codes. Please read this, paying attention to the motor connections:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484
EM3ev use the following connections on our controllers and all the motors we supply connect to our Infineon controllers with matched colours (yellow-yellow, green-green, blue-blue) on both hall and phase:
Yellow Phase - Controller C Phase
Green Phase - Controller B Phase
Blue Phase - Controller A Phase
Yellow Hall - Controller C Sensor
Green Hall - Controller B Sensor
Blue Hall - Controller A Sensor
Red Hall - Controller 5V Supply
Black Hall - Controller 0V Supply
Here is a document with some info on hall and phase combination:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1w8mTX5H5K8VJ8s12ECVcKFJLNEsTCLT4hHwfXD44y-s/edit
A helpful note regarding Hall and Phase combos:
I make my phase connections using thin wires with alligator clips along with the positive or negative power wire for the controller....easy to swap and can't support enough current to hurt anything. Just make sure the ends at the controller and motor wires can't short. Once the small pulses reveal what seems to be correct combination, then I ease on the throttle to WOT to verify. I do that slowly so I don't push high current through those small wires. If I get a valid reverse, then I swap 2, any 2, only 2 hall wires, and go back to swapping the phases for the correct combo. Once running smooth and proper direction, I put the multimeter in line with the battery lead on the alligator clip to verify low current as further proof of right combo, and to get the no load current so I can calibrate the CA at the same time.
It's really a quite simple process. People over complicate it with talk about 36 combos, and then people start swapping both. Once it sinks in that every phase combination has 1 valid hall combo, and every hall combo has 1 valid phase combo, then it becomes obvious that you don't change both. What you don't know is whether that valid one is forward or reverse (there are 3 of each). Be careful of false positives, which spin the wheel but sound a bit rough on startup. Every false positive I have seen has been the opposite direction for the set you are keeping static (halls using my method), so if a combo spins it backward but sounded a bit rough, that's a good sign.
Also be careful of bad connections, which make a good combo impossible to find. The end hall spades can slide to the side instead of into the connector too. I like to slide the hall connector in and out a few times when making the connection to ensure a good contact.
Once you get that right combo, undo the alligator clips one at a time, and make the solid connection before going to the next, so you don't lose track. Also, do yourself a favor and pick up some yellow, blue, green, red, and black electrical tape. Use it to color code your phase wire ends on the controller side to match the motor phase wires to avoid going through the process again at a future date with the same motor and controller.
Also note that the most common difference from matching colors is a swap of the yellow and blue phase wires, so try that first if color on color doesn't work. Be systematic. If the yellow and blue swap didn't work either, then you've already tried both combos of green on green, so next try the 2 combos of green on yellow, and then the 2 of green on blue. That's 6, so you have it by now, or at least a good reverse. See above for how to handle reverse.
Whatever you do don't get frustrated and give it WOT. My only burned motor, a little Bafang, resulted from doing that....burned the controller too. My next wiring attempt was after I went through the logic exercise and realized just how easy it is. My wires could all be black and I'd find the right wiring just as quickly.
Infineon connections with CA2
EM3ev Infineon controller pinouts:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgXNuMx0hAiShMMcJrXm2dbha0uNaw
EM3ev Infineon Connections including V2 Cycle Analyst:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgXNuMx0hAiShMMgmBPeegTlVPBJMA
Mac assembly Procedure for DHL Shipping:
How to install the bolts, washers and screws:
To remove the hall sensor pins from the plastic hall sensor connector you will need to use a small slotted screwdriver, or a similar tool (tweezer or scissors will also work), to push down on the tabs on the spade connector. This will allow the spade connector to be released from the plastic shell. Once the white plastic connector is removed you can slide the washers and the nut through.
Please make sure that everything is fitted correctly, before re-connecting the spade connectors to the plastic shell after bending back the tabs to their original position and making sure that the position of each colour coded wire matches the controller side. If you gently tug on each connector they shouldn’t come loose.
Temporary Video
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AgXNuMx0hAiShYRM-1fW1xEVvUHU1Q
We include 2x torque washers (1), 2x spacer washers (2) and 2x end nuts (3) with every Mac motor. The torque washers should be fitted first with the “lip” side facing towards the motor, followed by the spacer washer (if needed) and the end nut. Please note that if you are using a torque arm the torque washers are not necessary. Finally, the end nut goes on last and should be firmly tightened. You should not fit any of these parts between the motor and the dropout unless you need the increased clearance.
The cassette spacer must be used with the cassette version of the Mac, even if a cassette isn’t fitted. Unlike with the other washers and nuts, this goes between the motor and the dropout.
cid
art1.FF7C45B0.BD010682@fastmail.fm
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgXNuMx0hAiShMMThNmrhCt0eyMGwg
V2 CA Manual:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgXNuMx0hAiShMMslBJROqud0e5gGw
Thanks
Moon"
