Want to hire someone to Solder new Hall Sensor /PCB on Mac

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Oct 6, 2012
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SF Bay Area California
I have a Mac that the Solder melted, on the Hall Sensor PCB on the motor ( I am guessing poor workmanship at the Factory .

I live in the San Francisco Bay area, just South of San Jose, so someone as close as possible , up to the Silicon Valley , would be preferable
As I have no operating car at this time.

This is a simple job, but I do not have the work bench, or space, to do it.

If you live close by and can replace the Sensor/PCB, meaning take out the old one, and solder the new one in
and perhaps the other two sensors/PCB needs better soldering as well, I would be interested. I have not yet ordered the Hall Sensors with PCB yet, so if you are going to order
something , any parts from Em3ev anyway , I could buy it from you.

There is a you tube video oh how to do this, made by Ypedal in Canada : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrUjPNIs348 the Repair starts at Minute 5 minutes 40 seconds on the Video .
He is working on a different motor than a Mac, I think, however the procedure is the same.

And a very enthusiastic sounding Aussie, showing where the Hall Sensors are on the Mac
and even using / soldering the better HiGo Plug/s for the connection to the Controller ( not sure I need to have that done though )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zlLEcfw4xw
 
I have seen them advertised,
However
They are out in Benicia, would take a whole day and several Busses, Trams, Bart, Taxi's just to get there.
Also
I will have to have this done at non-commercial shop rates.

teklektik said:
California Ebike does service work for EM3EV here in the States. Not sure about MAC support...
 
ScooterMan101 said:
I will have to have this done at non-commercial shop rates.

Good luck on that.
As a tech, I'd only bill at $50 an hour billed by the hour, for a job like that. You're looking at a 3 hour job from setup to cleanup.
A shop would charge more.

However, you have a bigger problem. Solder won't melt from poor workmanship. Solder only melts from hear. 370 °F for 60/40 Sn-Pb. The only way that happens is if the motor was overheated. Unfortunately, your magnets would have been damaged by temps over 200 °F.
If you got it hot enough to melt solder, it's not worth the cost of rebuilding.
 
Sobering News DrunkSkunk,

After thinking about what you said for a few hours, A couple of things come to mind.

It did not appear to overheat, the first thing I did when it stopped working, ( started Stuttering ) was stop and
feel the motor, it was barely warm.

Em3ev was able to guess what it was right away, which tells me there have been a number of Mac's and other Hub motors from other Mfg's
that have had problems with the Halls, and sure enough when I went and did the test for the halls, one of them came up bad.

There is no smoke or burnt smell to the inside of the motor when I took off he cases ,
So there is a chance it is not as bad as you say,

However since a Shop would charge so much for fixing it,
I Will have to do the job myself , or someone who does repair as a hobby, for less than shop rates.
more important than before if as you say the magnets have been damaged.

How do you tell if the magnets have been damaged ?
 
I would do it for you (not free but cheap) if it's only the halls . Pm me. I'm in San jose

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
 
ScooterMan101 said:
There is no smoke or burnt smell to the inside of the motor when I took off he cases...
Gee, if you've already pulled it apart, there's not much to swapping in a new hall.

There are several applicable threads on ES. Here's one that gets directly to the point:
MAC hall replacement. Lotsa Pics

No need to pull the axle from the stator - the OP in that thread did it so the phase wires could be upgraded...
There's some notes on tools and stuff in my Mundo build thread - (it's about BMCs but they're very similar to MACs). The post is about swapping gear clusters, but that's everything just up to the point you replace the halls.
 
I just did one on an Ezee V1 today and will start another one tomorrow.
Don't even try and reuse the old parts. I got the PCB and Halls from Ebike CA and a pr. of 9-pin extension cables from Luna Cycles.
9-pin connectors are great up to 1500 Watts! If they are already there, an extension cut in half and plugged in-line is useful to ck continuity and Hall function during the process. This is key, ck, ck ck., especially before the final applications of epoxy.
One should ck on-line as to which is the positive leg on the Hall.
I used JB Weld to epoxy the PBC to the stator and Gorilla glue to secure the wires and cover the solder points.
 
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