Weld hub motor axle to make new threads, yes or no?

calab

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Would finding a good red seal or master tig welder person be the key for more accurate strong welds to cut threads into or would it be more involved like a machinist and taking the axle out, or would it be more simple then that as to trying to figure out the steel alloy type the axle is made of to use right rod?
 
Trying to do a fix without further damage or disassembly ?
Welding is not that.
How about cutting new threads ?
Such as :
If the original diameter is 14mm change the threads to 1/2"
Original diameter 12mm change the thread diameter to 7/16"
Cut to fit an aircraft grade quality fine thread nut.

If needed, reduce the diameter with a hand file.
Have you ever repaired a bolt with a thread file ?

Here's a story
First day on a welding job the new boss started opening the drawers in my toolbox.
When he got to the file drawer he made the comment "is that all ya got !"
His point of view :
A good craftsman has a wide assortment of files and knows how to use them.

Don't alter the section of axle that fits the frame or torque arm.
 
I would run a die the original size over the messed up threads. Use lots of grease and work it slowly. If that doesn't leave enough "meat" to work with (maybe stack a few washers to move the nut to a cleaner spot), get a new motor. I doubt a machine shop would touch it and it would end being more money than most new motors if they could repair it.
Now, if you were down in Mexico like I am......, the machinists in Latin Amer. seem to be able to fix anything
 
Sorry for the delay in pictures.

Fork is done for, hub motor can be saved. Like I assumed earlier, the bolts need to be changed out. I was thinking last night if there was a way to measure thread height on the axle and on the nuts.

Looks like a bit of the axle's dropout has been rubbed off a tad to a fillet type shape, but its not as serious a problem. Its hiding behind the slotted axle washer. Once the axle is fixed, its time for a new fork or perhaps a new used bicycle to swap everything over to. Full squish would be nice.

Spun axle, yes and more then once. It widened even more a day or two ago.


IMG_0217.JPG




Sorry about the blurred picture, but you get the idea in pic 0215, below.

IMG_0215.JPG
 
Clean up the threads with a thread file, jewelers file or die.
Squeeze the dropouts back to the correct width.
Add a torque arm.
Fresh nuts with washers to use the least damaged threads on the end of the axle.

https://jawco.com/collections/thread-restoring-files/products/nu-thred-8-metric-rethreading-file
 
motomech said:
Now, if you were down in Mexico like I am......, the machinists in Latin Amer. seem to be able to fix anything
... or CUBA. Ever see pictures of those Circa 1950-1960 cars still being used daily in Cuba? Some of them have more modern Japanese engines in them.

They would probably clean the axle up, fabricate a interference fit threaded sleeve and press it on (having warmed up the sleeve first).

P.S.
I once had Chevy valve guides installed into a Pinto 2000cc engine head. Not really worth the expense.
Sometimes replacing the motor/engine is the a more practical solution :shock:
 
Try to run a thread die on it to cut same size threads on it first. Then if that does not work, I would file down the end of the axle that protrudes past the fork and torque arm, then use a die to re thread it to another size. So it might be the next size smaller would be an SAE thread, vs next size down metric.
 
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