What's a good Hall effect throttle?

JRP3

1 kW
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Jan 14, 2008
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382
Location
Central NY State
Since it's an important component I'm looking for a durable and smooth Hall effect throttle. I see a lot of inexpensive ones but am concerned about quality. Are any of these any good?
Edit: Mostly cable throttles not hall effect

It will be on a dirt bike so it needs to be able to take some abuse. I've been considering using a remote hall effect connected to my existing cable throttle, something like this
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Or make my own version of that using a quality automotive hall effect unit like this
https://www.amazon.com/ACUITY-Effect-Throttle-Position-AcuraRSX-S/dp/B011LAYS32
 
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Yes.
There are more generic ones that are not for bafang as well.
It has a pretty weak return spring, but I havent seen that as much of a problem.
A domino and probably other expensive throttles have stronger ones.
It has a short thow that I like, shorter than domino and domino has shorter than magura.
I think the alta throttle and this one has similar throw if I remember correctly.
 
On my edirtbikes I get plenty of life with this throttle from Dun Electric Store in Malaysia. About $24.

Contact at Dun was James Chiang at dun-electric@hotmail.com


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Brush guards will extend throttle life considerably on an edirtbike.

86CE08BE-6AD6-4D1C-96C6-249258830C4F.jpeg

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Cycra is top line but you may need additional stabilization/connectivity.

7B71C6D2-0E96-4406-B1DD-927F6FFC0B1E.jpeg
 
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JRP3,

You will get a better deal by skipping Alibabi and going thru Chiang James. Pay with PayPal.

The split throttles hold up better on edirtbikes because the end force from a tip over [handle bar end smashed into ground]is not transmitted to the Hall Ring.
 
FWIW, I've been using two of those cable operated hall effect throttles on SB Cruiser for a few years now, with no problems with the COTs themselves, or the metal ATV thumb throttle I use to control one (used for modulating trike speed when I'm not using cadence PAS to do it), or the cable-pull brake lever used to control the other one (used for modulating regen braking).

I got mine all from the same place, here:



The only problem I have had, pretty recently, is from a damaged cable (I screwed it up a little while working on something else next to it, and haven't yet replaced it, I just adjusted the Cycle Analyst's throttle input range to work around it for now). The units themselves work perfectly.
 
JRP3,

The link you have posted is the Dun store and my suggested throttle is not in their sales list. Chiang James of Dun has done resourcing for me to find the throttle I have suggested when I could no longer find it on eBay. You may have to get his help for purchasing the throttle I have suggested.

Sometimes eBay has had only full length throttles of the type I like. I have cut the twist part of the throttle grip in half to eliminate end force impaction and reduce “whiskey throttle”. Whiskey throttle is reduced because a portion of your grip is fixed on something that does not rotate.
 
what you think of the common hall surron (Urwall) throttle?
Seem to have lots of good reviews and I see them cheap on aliexpress



I ordered two intending to open and at least not break one as I add another spring so ends up a two-way throttle with a 90/10 ratio for regen

I’ve always used half-throttles in the past but giving the full another go.
 
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I looked at those but couldn't see any information on them being hall effect or not.
Seems to be “dual” hall sensor, whatever that means
 
Seems to be “dual” hall sensor, whatever that means
2 hall sensors putting out different values I think, you only need to use one of them.
 
The way the dual-sensor throttles of any type (pot, hall, etc) I've seen any details on were designed is so that one sensor reads full off when the other reads full on. The controller is designed to read this specific type of setup and refuse to provide motor power if it doesn't detect the correct relationship of one to the other.

It's done as an inverse relationship instead of just two of the same so that the same kind of wiring failure on each one cannot cause a runaway condition--it would require exactly the right kind of fault on each one to cause output to go exactly to the right value on each one at the same time to allow uncommanded controller response, which is a lot less likely this way than even two of the same would be.

For two of the same that both go from full off to full on together, all you need is the ground to the throttle assembly to break and you now have full on on both, and uncommanded runaway throttle, for controllers not designed to detect this condition.

Potentiometer throttles are easy to detect fault conditions in by using them as part of a current path for an interlock that if current isn't flowing thru it as designed, prevents the controller from operating. Hall throttles are harder to use that way (not impossible), so it's more likely to see a complicated dual-sensor throttle design with a hall based one than a pot, just because it's so easy to create an interlock with a single-pot throttle.
 
Wondering if I got a bad throttle, at first the VESC app couldn't even see the controller with the throttle hooked up, then would give a BLE error if I connected the app first then the throttle, finally got it hooked up without any errors, ran it through the setup a few times but it's not responding, the controller shows it at 3V at rest, when I put a meter on the leads it shows 5V between red and black and 4.25V between throttle signal and black off throttle which doesn't change when I move the throttle.
 
Sounds like the throttle is not wired correctly, perhaps internally. Or the magnet has come loose from the moving part of the throttle and is stuck in one place.
 
Most VESC ADCs are only designed for 3.3v max so 5v hall effect throttles will actually be applying too much voltage and ideally the output would be run through a voltage divider to get it in the correct range. In practice is often doesn't damage the VESC considering how many people do it without knowing and this could totally not be your issues but I figured it would be good to note. Here is a thread with more information: don't wire ADC to 5v
 
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