Will this setup give me insane watt?

A motor will run when you feed it other voltage and power that it is sold for, but this motor will not survive very high power and abuse.

The controller you linked to can be programmed, but it might not have the programming connector installed. You have to contact the seller to add this option and order the interface wire. A 24 fet is too much for this motor, that can be pushed to its limit with a much smaller controller. Those who are building high power with a mid drive are using much better/bigger motors. You should read building threads.
 
Do you know of any good and cheap site where they sell alot of good controllers 80amp + - and motors?
Cheap shipping to Norway.
 
I am not into building mid drives, so probably not a reliable source of info about components for this purpose. That is why I recommend that you read mid drive building threads, and search the "Ebike non-hub motor drives" section of the forum.
 
Aha i see.
But how is it to connect the motor, battery and throttle to the controller? Pretty easy?
Are most electric scooters wiring the same?
 
Controller to battery is only a matter of positive and negative.
Throttles are not all the same, but generally hall effect with 3 wires: low +, high +, common -
Most controller have the same 3 wire throttle connector.
Controller to motor does require finding the proper hall (3wires) and phase (3wires) combination. Sometimes they are colour match, but not usually. Colour combos for controllers/motors are documented on ES, but it is not complicated to find it yourself with a simple try and error elimination procedure.
 
MadRhino said:
Controller to battery is only a matter of positive and negative.
Throttles are not all the same, but generally hall effect with 3 wires: low +, high +, common -
Most controller have the same 3 wire throttle connector.
Controller to motor does require finding the proper hall (3wires) and phase (3wires) combination. Sometimes they are colour match, but not usually. Colour combos for controllers/motors are documented on ES, but it is not complicated to find it yourself with a simple try and error elimination procedure.
Click to expand...


Thanks alot for all the help MadRhino :)
Ill think ill order some stuff now, but would this throttle be able to handle 72v? Or would it just not work with the motor/controller setup i showed you?

And how do i set the 3 speed 50, 100 and 120%? Do i need a 3 switch then?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/HMParts-E-Scooter-Gasgriff-Hallgeber-absperrbar-Typ-6-48-Volt-/361745283809?hash=item5439b2fae1
 
Throttles are never fed the battery voltage. It does work on the controls circuit that is 5v, standard on all controllers I have seen.

I don't know this particular throttle. They spec 48v because it must have a battery level indicator that is for a 48v battery. You should check with the seller about that, and also if it is a hall effect throttle. A POT throttle can be mod to work though, if you are willing to make a conversion.

A 3 speed switch is standard 4 wires and easy to find cheap.
 
MadRhino said:
Throttles are never fed the battery voltage. It does work on the controls circuit that is 5v, standard on all controllers I have seen.

I don't know this particular throttle. They spec 48v because it must have a battery level indicator that is for a 48v battery. You should check with the seller about that, and also if it is a hall effect throttle. A POT throttle can be mod to work though, if you are willing to make a conversion.

A 3 speed switch is standard 4 wires and easy to find cheap.
Click to expand...


Ohh, what is hall effect sensor? Should it have that or not?

Maybe this would work, it has switched implemented to it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HMParts-E-Scooter-Gas-handle-SET-Reverse-and-Circuit-breaker-Typ14-/361599855587?hash=item543107ebe3:g:RZsAAOSw14xWHP~t
 
Hall sensors are the most common way to read the twist position of the throttle, but some are transmitting the signal off a potentiometer instead.

Again, since the type is not mentioned, you should check with the seller. The second throttle that you link does have a 3 speed switch that is standard and will work with all controllers that have the 3 speed function enabled. The second switch that is mentioned as reverse, can be used for controller on/off circuit. If it is a hall effect throttle type, it will work without any mod.
 
MadRhino said:
Hall sensors are the most common way to read the twist position of the throttle, but some are transmitting the signal off a potentiometer instead.

Again, since the type is not mentioned, you should check with the seller. The second throttle that you link does have a 3 speed switch that is standard and will work with all controllers that have the 3 speed function enabled. The second switch that is mentioned as reverse, can be used for controller on/off circuit. If it is a hall effect throttle type, it will work without any mod.
Click to expand...


Okay :)

I found this, it has hall and 3 position switch :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282480677704

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232169152820
I see 4 wires on this motor, what is the last long plastic covered?

So to be clear. I can combine these items with this controller, and drive carefully not to overheat the motor, im gonna order now :) (possible to solder the program wire myself
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24FET-IRFB4110-s-3000W-48-84V-80Amax-BLDC-motor-controller-EV-brushless-speed-controller-sensor-sensorless/313864_522263950.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.b7ke02

Alot of questions mate :)
 
This motor has 8 wires. The hall sensors wiring is very small since they are fed 5v, and the 3 of them grouped together with red and black 5v + and - wires in a small 5 pin connector. The 3 phase wires need to be big, even more so if you plan to feed high power.

To install a programming circuit wiring is not so bad for someone who has electronic soldering experience. The job is documented somewhere on the forum. I prefer buying them controllers fitted with the wiring that I need already. Most sellers will do it very cheap.
 
MadRhino said:
This motor has 8 wires. The hall sensors wiring is very small since they are fed 5v, and the 3 of them grouped together with red and black 5v + and - wires in a small 5 pin connector. The 3 phase wires need to be big, even more so if you plan to feed high power.

To install a programming circuit wiring is not so bad for someone who has electronic soldering experience. The job is documented somewhere on the forum. I prefer buying them controllers fitted with the wiring that I need already. Most sellers will do it very cheap.
Click to expand...

Ohhh, so it is a hall sensor wiring. Is this nessecary to connect? What does it do?
the other 3 phase wires can be upgrader by resoldering?

But this motor, controller and throttle will work together?
 
The hall sensors are returning a signal to the controller, so the program knows on which of the 3 phases it is time to feed the power. Sensored controllers are able to start a motor from a dead stop, while sensorless does require some rotation of the motor to read a feedback.

The controller that you linked is sensored, so is the motor.
 
MadRhino said:
The hall sensors are returning a signal to the controller, so the program knows on which of the 3 phases it is time to feed the power. Sensored controllers are able to start a motor from a dead stop, while sensorless does require some rotation of the motor to read a feedback.

The controller that you linked is sensored, so is the motor.
Click to expand...


Cool MadRhino, then i believe i can buy these components and start to modificate my e scooter :)
You think it will be good? as long as i dont overload it :D?

And btw, do you know of any controllers with more amp to roughly the same price?
 
Controllers half that size and price can feed more power with proper mod. This one does feed 80A stock, without any mod it is feeding too much already, for the motor that you chose. It is not uncommon for a 24X4110 to be mod to feed 200A, and that kind of power would require a motor twice as big and 5 times the cost. I feed 20kw daily with a 18X4110 and it is reliable, the motor is 25 lbs and can survive that power only a few seconds at a time.
 
MadRhino said:
Controllers half that size and price can feed more power with proper mod. This one does feed 80A stock, without any mod it is feeding too much already, for the motor that you chose. It is not uncommon for a 24X4110 to be mod to feed 200A, and that kind of power would require a motor twice as big and 5 times the cost. I feed 20kw daily with a 18X4110 and it is reliable, the motor is 25 lbs and can survive that power only a few seconds at a time.
Click to expand...

HOLY COW. Well yeah, but the thing is i may use a bigger motor later.
How do you modify it to be able to handle more amp or close to 200amp?
 
MadRhino said:
I explained that already, higher in this thread.
Click to expand...

Super cool. Ahh ok. Are there tutorials on what to soldier on the forum?

Okay. Ive ordered those 3 components. Motor, controller and throttle. Will be fun to start modding :)
 
There are some old threads with pictures, step by step mods of various controllers. Basicly, there are wide traces on the board that are feeding current to each mosfet, and from them to the phase wires. Those traces need to be beefed, adding copper mesh and solder on top. Phase wires need to be replaced sometimes with better, bigger ones. Then the shunt resistance need to be lowered by adding solder or replaced with a bigger one. Power wires to the battery connection, also need to be low resistance, and bigger connectors too.

Then you will need batteries to feed high power, lots of quality round cells or high C rate RC lipo. You will find threads about them too, what to buy and how to assemble.
 
MadRhino said:
There are some old threads with pictures, step by step mods of various controllers. Basicly, there are wide traces on the board that are feeding current to each mosfet, and from them to the phase wires. Those traces need to be beefed, adding copper mesh and solder on top. Phase wires need to be replaced sometimes with better, bigger ones. Then the shunt resistance need to be lowered by adding solder or replaced with a bigger one. Power wires to the battery connection, also need to be low resistance, and bigger connectors too.

Then you will need batteries to feed high power, lots of quality round cells or high C rate RC lipo. You will find threads about them too, what to buy and how to assemble.
Click to expand...


I only see two, but its a 6pin says the seller.

I also talked to LEO which sells the Greentime Controller. He says its rated for 30-40amp and wont reach 80amp cause its the limit... thats no good :S Cant even program it.
Maybe fix it With a shunt mod? :)
 
You better find a programmable controller, with programming connector and interface cable. Otherwise you will spend a lot of time tempering, and may even end up with a fried controller. Look in the "for sale new" section of the forum, you will find some thst are upgraded already. 18 fet 4110 is enough, making a better fit on a bike and cools down better than a 24 fet in air flow.
 
MadRhino said:
You better find a programmable controller, with programming connector and interface cable. Otherwise you will spend a lot of time tempering, and may even end up with a fried controller. Look in the "for sale new" section of the forum, you will find some thst are upgraded already. 18 fet 4110 is enough, making a better fit on a bike and cools down better than a 24 fet in air flow.
Click to expand...

Hehe i ordered some hours ago. How can it be fried btw?
It should handle between 48 and 98v

Will i still be able to modify it to 150/200amp?
 
You will be able to upgrade it, and install a programming harness. Just more work to do than having bought one already done. You can fry a controller in many ways, but unless you short it and it bursts in flames and sparks, you will be able to repair. :wink:
 
Actually i canceled the order. Lets see how it goes :)

If it get canceled ive been looking at this

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MQCON-Sabvoton-72V-6KW-regenerative-braking_60470434000.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.syxXd5

Is it possible to program these so you can lower amp and other parameters?

If not im going to use the low setting to spare my motor, and set it to high on a larger one :)

You know if these controllers are any good?
 
Yes they are very good controllers. Big and heavy (that is the downside), fully programmable, already capable of high power and not upgradeable.

That is what I like: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16605

Light weight, thin shape neatly mounting on the bike frame, easily upgradeable, programmable, Cycle Analyst compatible. Can be ordered with options: upgraded wiring, beefed traces, programming cable, throttle, 3 spd switch.
 
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