Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

That is what I originally thought, but from what people were saying on the Stealth thread, that the Mini-E would be fine.


I am surprised at the speeds being claimed on the other thread, but maybe the motor winding count was different not he Stealth ..I had the 5304...maybe the Sealth bike that was being discussed had a faster wind. Either way, the Max-E is way way too expensive for me. when I can get an 18 FET for $145 USD.plus plus a CA for 150..$800 or so just too much for my budget.

I had hoped that the claims about the Mini-E had been true, and it would match my 18 FET..so i could have got the Mini, and reduced the battery pack size, so saving on battery purchase cost...and put that towards the Mini-E

Adaptto,
me and a few others have problem with jerky motor cut off during hard acceleration. the problem appears mainly with settings above 200A phase and fast throttle ramp up.
the motors are always have been set up correct. PWR timing about 1.4, OVS 3, wire r phc ON
any ideas whats wrong?

madin88 said:

Adaptto,
me and a few others have problem with jerky motor cut off during hard acceleration. the problem appears mainly with settings above 200A phase and fast throttle ramp up.
the motors are always have been set up correct. PWR timing about 1.4, OVS 3, wire r phc ON
any ideas whats wrong?

Click to expand...

Yes. I also have that problem with my cro v3 and max e...i had to ramp down the phase amps a lot to 190 to avoid the problem.

madin88 said:

Adaptto,
me and a few others have problem with jerky motor cut off during hard acceleration. the problem appears mainly with settings above 200A phase and fast throttle ramp up.
the motors are always have been set up correct. PWR timing about 1.4, OVS 3, wire r phc ON
any ideas whats wrong?

Click to expand...

madin88 said:

Adaptto,
me and a few others have problem with jerky motor cut off during hard acceleration. the problem appears mainly with settings above 200A phase and fast throttle ramp up.
the motors are always have been set up correct. PWR timing about 1.4, OVS 3, wire r phc ON
any ideas whats wrong?

Click to expand...

I asked them about this-- I have this exact problem! Sometimes happens at 210 phase, not really at 200-- and always happens if I'm not careful with the throttle. They told me to solder an 0603 SMD on top of another resistor, unfortunately I haven't received the resistor yet but hopefully soon I'll report back. I hesitate to post the location here because I don't want to be responsible for mis-diagnosing peoples controllers and leading to their damage but you can PM me and I can forward you my conversation with Adaptto, until then I'll wait for their reply.

If you have any old electronics kit kicking around..old router...old dead Xie Chang controller etc..you are sure to find a resistor on one of them. Just get down with a magnifying glass and take close look.

When searching for small components like that, I always first remove all the wires, big components etc, so you have a flat board to work with

0603...is that an 603? not sure..resistor code calculator comes up with 'error' when I put in 0603

http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php

but gives 60k Ω when 603 is used.

0603 is the size of the package and not the resistance value, http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology

xenodius said:

madin88 said:

Adaptto,
me and a few others have problem with jerky motor cut off during hard acceleration. the problem appears mainly with settings above 200A phase and fast throttle ramp up.
the motors are always have been set up correct. PWR timing about 1.4, OVS 3, wire r phc ON
any ideas whats wrong?

Click to expand...

I asked them about this-- I have this exact problem! Sometimes happens at 210 phase, not really at 200-- and always happens if I'm not careful with the throttle. They told me to solder an 0603 SMD on top of another resistor, unfortunately I haven't received the resistor yet but hopefully soon I'll report back. I hesitate to post the location here because I don't want to be responsible for mis-diagnosing peoples controllers and leading to their damage but you can PM me and I can forward you my conversation with Adaptto, until then I'll wait for their reply.

Click to expand...

This is interesting because I never had this issue and I keep my phase amps at the highest settings. I also full throttle quickly all the time with hard acceleration. I have a cromotor v3.

@ offroader
what firmware?

Just did 40km of driving. If i twist the throttle rapidly the motor shuts down. Phase amps 180 then its over...but the torque is a lot less to. Thats not the reason i wanted a max e. Can i not shut this protect mode off?

Thats really annoying. i believe thats a bug in firmware (its still not final) and cannot be normal. hopefully its not a hardware thing..

Maybe the problem is related to a particular setup...

-battery voltage set wrong,
-phase wire lenght that is too long... ( creating too much electromagnetic field around the hall wires...
-LVC that is set too high and kick in or one group of cell that sag too much

Also if you try various controller setting in the tuning does it change the cut off that you are experiencing?

Doc

maybe, i noticed phase amps and PWR timing has affect to this problem, but to me it was not really understandable..

- battery voltage (yet no bms in my case)
- phase and hall wires are separated from each other on bike with cromotor (only a few cm through the axle), on bike with mxus 3000 they are in same tube.
- LVC is correct, v soft limit about 1,5V

firmware RC9d (but also on RC9e it cuts out)

I have also version rc9d. Had it with phase on 185 to...and when the pack is fresh it is more. If i heavy accelerate the amps goes in a second to 127 . then the motor cuts out at 11kw. Its like the controller cant handle peakpower. I played with every setting but nothing helps....

lennovich said:

I have also version rc9d. Had it with phase on 185 to...and when the pack is fresh it is more. If i heavy accelerate the amps goes in a second to 127 . then the motor cuts out at 11kw. Its like the controller cant handle peakpower. I played with every setting but nothing helps....

Click to expand...

I think that when the battery voltage is full and that is too close to the max 98V limit, the motor might have more chance to cut out at heavy phase amp. In the Adaptto manual it is indicated if i remember correctly that evert 100A of phase current create a 10V over voltage spike above the battery voltage. This mean that at 90V battery if using 100A phase current you get 100V present at the mosfet. 200A mean 110V and 300A mean 120V and finally 400A mean 130V spike at the 100V mosfet.

Depending on the controller tuning this might have more or less importance.

Doc

Doctorbass said:

lennovich said:

I have also version rc9d. Had it with phase on 185 to...and when the pack is fresh it is more. If i heavy accelerate the amps goes in a second to 127 . then the motor cuts out at 11kw. Its like the controller cant handle peakpower. I played with every setting but nothing helps....

Click to expand...

I think that when the battery voltage is full and that is too close to the max 98V limit, the motor might have more chance to cut out at heavy phase amp. In the Adaptto manual it is indicated if i remember correctly that evert 100A of phase current create a 10V over voltage spike above the battery voltage. This mean that at 90V battery if using 100A phase current you get 100V present at the mosfet. 200A mean 110V and 300A mean 120V and finally 400A mean 130V spike at the 100V mosfet.

Depending on the controller tuning this might have more or less importance.

Doc

Click to expand...

Yes , this is maybe possible. But i run on 20s lipo ( 83v 32a) .If i pull 120 amps that will not be a problem then i think.
Anyway, thanks for help thinking about this

i read this on the adappto site

"With UNLOCKED firmware the power doesn’t decrease when the supply voltage exceeds 92V. But you need to be very careful when riding with supply voltage more than 90V. There are voltage surges when the controller is operated at high phase currents (e.g. the higher the phase current the larger are the voltage surges – approximately 10V for each 100A of phase current for Max-E) which can blow up the power contour of the controller. It is highly recommendable in terms of in-feed to solder the capacitance of at least 6mF with a low internal resistance and also 0,01mF of ceramic/film capacitors low-esr.


In my case , when i set phase to 190 amps. it means that the voltage surges with my full charged pack goes to 100+ volts.
From what i can read it is no problem with the unlocked version??
What did they mean with soldering the capacitance? Anyone did this before?

10V at only 100A sounds a bit to exorbitant, but however that be, more caps are always good

anyone else running RC8 firmware or above and has the problem with motor cut?
maybe with RC7 its not there..

Quick question guys.. I'm on the brink of MaxE ownership :lol:
My current setup is lyen 18fet-24s-cromotor. battery amps are 60 & I'm running a 19" moto rear rim.

As the Max E will not support 24s lipo I'm thinking of chopping my packs about to make 3s 4p instead of 4s 3p. The top speed of the bike is about 50 mph if I drop down to 18s the top speed will drop obviously but with the adaptto I can up the amps more than my lyen 18fet so...

How close to 50 mph will I get at 18s with the amps lifted ?

Cheers

jon

Jonboy said:

Quick question guys.. I'm on the brink of MaxE ownership :lol:
My current setup is lyen 18fet-24s-cromotor. battery amps are 60 & I'm running a 19" moto rear rim.

As the Max E will not support 24s lipo I'm thinking of chopping my packs about to make 3s 4p instead of 4s 3p. The top speed of the bike is about 50 mph if I drop down to 18s the top speed will drop obviously but with the adaptto I can up the amps more than my lyen 18fet so...

How close to 50 mph will I get at 18s with the amps lifted ?

Cheers

jon

Click to expand...

with OVS you'll probably go faster lol... but without you'll get roughly 18/24=0.75* your current top speed, so about 38mph, the extra amps will only get you there faster. (in reality, it'll be a bit more than .75 as the wind resistance will be lower, but .75 will be a good guide).

Just see my last post, I do 70km/h on 10s and 120km/h on 20s so at 18s you will get a lot more than 50mph

Hello,

one of my friend have problem with max-e.

I made a bike for him, and he took it home.

At home he turn it ON, and charged the battery. After charging he turned it OFF then turned it ON again and there was "HALLS" on the screen. What can be the problem?? Did he damage the HALLS somehow? Where was no this message before he turn it off and on after charging...

He have sent me the picture:

Thats a problem with halls sensors or the wires to the halls. Check it out with a multimeter.

lennovich said:

Thats a problem with halls sensors or the wires to the halls. Check it out with a multimeter.

Click to expand...

Thank you for advice. Alex told me it can be just a bug .. I check it on wednesday when I will visit my friend. That's really strange as before he start charging and OFF - ON there was no this sign.. And the motor was working fine..

Hello Adaptto Owners, WarDog's officially a member of Club-A! Ordered a Mini-E and 30A coil a couple days ago, package cleared Russian customs on it's way now. I've been reading the ES-Adaptto threads and user manual gaining good preliminary knowledge to maximize my understanding the features incorporated in this device and purchase some supporting hardware. I feel confident in myself, however, this is my first experience with a programmable controller, features beyond basic and advancing by jumping into the Lipo lake.... so I have a few questions and would like to know your preferences using the A-brain.

A little background... I'm an experienced racer, fabricator and mechanic, a little weak in electronic systems knowledge, but gaining fast since taking up this hobby 6 months ago (2 builds w/same components).
What I have is basically what I started with, Electric Rider's 7240 kit:
-72 volt, 20ah LiMn split-pack(2 x 36v) battery w/BMS (20s9p, 82.5v HVC, 66v LVC, ER specs- 3-5C 2200mah cells, max 60amp continuous, likely BMS limits to 50amp cont.)
-Clyte 72volt, 40amp controller (non-programmable, no regen)
-APM Display (some programmable features, basically does nothing)
-Clyte H4080 upgraded motor from HPC (14mm axle, NSK bearings, drilled air-cooling, corrosion coat)
-Standard Throttle, Magnetic Reed E-Brake Cutoff

First questions are about batteries and charging. I made an EBay offer of $65 for an Eaton APR48-3g with no accessories/manual that was accepted:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351322392097?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Appears to be the preferred hot set-up for Adaptto charging. I plan to wire it for 110VAC input, so 1100 watts max consumption would be @ 10amps. I'll use a 12ga. input cord (even though 14ga. is good for 15A) wired: Black-Input+, White-Input neutral, Ground connected. Then on the DC output 1100w/48VDC= 23amps? Should I use 10ga.? Or would 12ga silicone oxy-free be OK? Wire to provided XT-60 and PS should be in service. Am I forgetting anything?
I plan on using my LiMn batt which I charge with 2- 36volt fixed-output zap boxes at 4amp/each. What would be the safe max charge current for the above described battery using the hot-shoe Adaptto charging set-up? Also discharging this batt in the Adaptto settings, I understand to set Battery current at 50 or 60 amps (BMS dependent?), but not sure what max Phase current (amps) setting would be w/o damaging the battery?

Next, It's Lipo Time! I think I'm old enough to start doing Lipo responsibly.......just so many different tasty brews, I don't know which one to try first sooo, gimmie one of everything..... Ha! Really though, I have been reading threads and think I got a plan, then I go to HK's website....Multi, Turni, Zippy, 4p, 5p, 6p, 10C, 20C,30C.......geez, need a big f'n neon sign "Buy This, SDog". I got the system down, but am looking for advice from more experienced Club-A members. My first goal would be to put together a lightweight off-road pack like 5-8ah of high-discharge lipo, 15-20S and expand from there. I plan to get the Adaptto BMS which seems optimized for 4S packs w/o splicing wires or using balance lead adaptors. 4S is not bad doing 16S or 20S/1P, but if I wanted to increase capacity to 4P later, seems like 4S packs would be a wire nest mess! Anyway, I'm just looking for advice on what works best for other Club-A cats....... Thanks!

Finally, for now, setting up Regen. It seems one way to go is a Honeywell SS49 (or SS49E) hall sensor on the rear brake lever. Plentiful and seems easy enough to install/wire, just wondering about sourcing one. EBay Chinese vendors sell 'em cheap (10 for $10), but they might not be Honeywell, they're square. Brit vendors may have OEM Honey's, they're round "905" label for $7 each. Thoughts and input are appreciated. Also, if anyone has an extra SS49 hall sensor to trade, I can offer a set of 14mm Nord-lock's? Or maybe some other bits.... send PM.
Raising my can of Heady-Topper to traction-control in the snow next week!
здоровье!
SDog

Just put through an order for a Mini-E on the weekend. Still waiting (hoping) for funds to transfer via bank transfer currently. The bank details didn't match up exactly with available fields from my banks transfer screen, and I had to look up the banks address separately, so fingers crossed it all works out.

I will be mounting (somehow) the Mini-E to my Stealth Fighter. I plan to run unlocked firmware, and squeeze every last drop of power from the thing. I will be mounting small RC racing fans and dust filters to blast air through the controller to keep it cool. I will also place heat transfer padding between the controller and my bike frame before securing it. To protect it I will spray some electrically insulating varnish on the PCB.
Anyone have any thoughts on doing all this?
With all that cooling, what kind of power do people thing the Mini-E will be capable of? I'm hoping 4-5KW continuous, 8-9KW peaks.

Cheers