#1 The long road

After putting it together and aligning every think all is good so the paint job gets the green light, but what color, white is nice green or blue even or matt black :!: gloss black automotive 2 pac it is.
First day gave it r 4 coats not quite the finish i wanted so next day keyed it up again and 4 more coats and im happy.
 

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Red lines with that black would look amazing.

Im speechless that's some amazing work.

-Ugrd
 
Yup, some bright highlights would look heaps sick. A red, blue, yellow would do the trick, anything that's nice and vibrant, just in a few clean lines around the frame.

Otherwise, damn that thing is clean, keep it up!
 
Well all black for now , soaresdacost getting to the rewarding part now that the frame design/ fabricating side is almost done, its assembled now and got something to look at and tweak.
I must have pulled it apart 5 times tweaking to getting everything [swingarm/ motor/ rearshock/ seat post ect] aligned .

Had to do a custom rear caliper adapter turned ok but had a accident while milling it, the bit got caught and it got very violent the motor drew so much current the lights went dim and then snapped my drill press table arm off and the compound- table nearly got me on the way down but i jumped out of the way :shock: that was a close one, that got real nasty very quickly. fixed it now and back to the build.SAM_1131.JPG

Using stainless steel on all fasteners and cutting them to length on some, have rubber mounted swingarm /rear shock and seat mount.
SAM_1132.JPG
 
whooow
thats is one nice bike!!!
i like it alot.

just one question.
how long have you been working on this bike?

thanks louis

succes with your project.
 
Hay louis
I ask my self this question a-lot, from the start with the big hit frame, 12 months, from frame change around 8 months designing sucks up a lot of time, and educating my self on bike parts / frame design, followed by 2 months waiting for the first welder. followed by me fabricating. has been one big education.
But now i bet the second bike will be waaay faster, not sure which way ill go, lighter or almost a emoto,with a slightly stronger frame but bigger motor like this one http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58838 :mrgreen: :mrgreen: . thats a cromotor size on right.


Laminating some carbon side panels
 

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Thanks, i dont post that often, the thing now as im getting closer to the finish is resisting temptation to rush it, got to keep it to the same standard, still waiting on some things to come extra plugs wire ect, gives me time to decid on my charging methods/ connections and battery loom, im going to use a ac circuit breaker as discussed here, they are a switch and fuse all in one, good idea i think http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=58804.

Finished laminating one of the side panels the finished epoxy flow coat came out good. [Still has masking tape on outside to protect it while i juggle stuff around]
 

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Some progress, battery support done,SAM_1158.JPGCrank set arrived, and have 170mm Q factor 8) one of the big considerations when crunching the numbers with the swingarm .View attachment 1
Made a controller mounting plate / bash plate instead of connecting controller directly to frame, that way if i change controller in the future, just make a new plate rather than drilling more holes in frame.
Also as you can see after some thought i bailed on the internal controller mounting idea.
 
A little progress, on to finishing mounting the saint brakes, decided to feed the rear line through the frame had to disconnect from the lever to get it through , this also gave me the chance to trim the line for that custom look ,after reconnecting and bleeding was so pleased with it i also trimmed the front as well .

Normally i dont like to get branded tools but if your going to do this using the small yellow cable clamp that comes with shimano brakes helped a lot while inserting /hammering that small metal insert you can see in pic, your local bike shop would probably give these clamps away.
 

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First stage on my charging solution, every body needs a good power supply,ITS A HP SERVER DPS-600PB B that is these are cheap and sturdy.
Her is how to do it http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=81aec84724069e4fb8bf2d37e6d83c89&t=1581061
Here is my version, added a 100k trim pot to slow the fan as they are a bit noisy but this model is quieter than most, and this way if its a hot day i can turn the fan to max works goodE1010237.jpg
And finished it today :) with a power switch had to remove the female lead socket to find some room for the switch as these things are built tight with nooo nada room inside.
 

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More progress on the electric side, after much thought this is my internal mounted charging discharging solution, those are female xt90'sSAM_1361.JPG
I have a 1344 watt power lab 8 and a bc 168 i havent upgraded the 168's charge leads yet, as some have burned but will keep it under 4amps per channel.
Im going to bulk charge through the xt90's at around 30 amps with the power lab and of course while balance charging.
Or i can also use the bc 168 on the jstxh balance connectors seen in pic
so i should have the best of both bulk and balance worlds covered.
 
Wow. This build is like a salute to craftsmanship. Amazing work, great design and a keen eye for details.
Hi quality automotive paint, like 8 coats? I liked that you took your time and learned as the process went along, rather then to rush things in order to ride as quickly as possible. Stunning. And extremely light weight too.

What about the frame, is it double walled for strength or have you made kind of like an internal reinforcement like they did on the russian universal frame? Did you have an engineer look at your design to help you with determine the needed strength/thickness of the aluminum sheets?

So looking forward to see this bike completed. And excited to see what kind of power and acceleration you get from this.
Make sure you make tons of videos for us.

*subscribed*
 
macribs :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
The first few coats i had dust issues and insects doing Kamikaze runs into it :evil: , good side is plenty of paint easy to buff out scratches accumulated over time.

This has been quite a journey so far and i want to share it as ive learnt so much from the sphere.

Frame/swingarm is single 3mm 5083 this retains its strenth well after welding, no engineer this is my design and material choices + LOTTS of thinking.
I have made a removable brace that connects internally top to bottom but i think i have allready over engineered it, i may or may-not use it i think this will be mainly
used on road but design/strength wise i dont think will have any probs offroad with a simple wheel rim change.
Or i make #2.

Finished making a cover for the charge ports.
 
@soaresdacosta: so true what you say. We need to see much more of this build.

@emoto: And videos from building and riding would be awesome as well.
 
Hi Luis
Your too kind, i saw your build and its well thought out and very clean, I admit i have missed loads of details but will do better in future :), isee you like carbon and ill post a better pic on how i laminateded my carbon panels if you like.
Macribs i cant promise any video but when finished and got some time you never know.

While im doing my wiring id like to share my new " little friend" mr grippy its real handy.
I think its a must have for all ebikers.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25167__Mr_Grippy_Soldering_Jig.html
 

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Ive decided on a house hold ac circut breaker as main switch and fuse, this one is rated 230/400v 63 amp, made up a pre-charge circut with 100 ohm resistor as well just for good measure, though technically i may not need one.SAM_1510.JPG
But my concern is a dc arc is large, as seen here. Comments .

[youtube]Zez2r1RPpWY[/youtube]
 
That is a very good explanation to why we don't have DC in our homes.
In the early days of distributed electric power 110vDC was common with the problems so very well demonstrated in your video. I read a story of a light bulb blowing and the subsequent plasma arc burned up the cord until some saw it and shut off the power.
I have seen big switch gear with contacts inside containers of inert gas to stop the arc.
The solar industry use DC switchgear and breakers. They have much bigger gaps than AC switchgear. They usually have a fast spring loaded action and arc dampening devices built in.
Very impressive demonstration.
 
Modbikemax id love to claim that vid as mine but i found it researching breakers, thanks for making those points i thought so.
Megacycle was on about those dc solar breakers and now am convinced thats what we should be using.
Another source is the marine industry they use dc breakers.
Ive got another breaker and ill sacrifice it for research, measure the contact gap and post some pics .
 
My approach is to simply avoid high current switches or breakers, and use a fuse as protection with a keyswitch on the low power on/off line of the controller. If the controller has a drain down resistor that gets pulled, so there's negligible drain on the pack even idle for months. As long as you don't need to frequently pull the pack for security reasons, no one has ever explained a good reason to disco battery mains to me on a 3phase motor as long as the controller has low power switch for the MCU.

A question about carbon. I've never worked with it. Are your side panels just 1 layer or more? How rigid is a single layer in epoxy?

Bike is looking great! It won't be too long before she sees some action.

John
 
Pulled apart a ac breaker with only a 5mm gap between contacts tripped, quite possibly not enough for my 72v setup.SAM_1616.JPG
John in CR said:
My approach is to simply avoid high current switches or breakers, and use a fuse as protection with a keyswitch on the low power on/off line of the controller
If the controller has a drain down resistor that gets pulled, so there's negligible drain on the pack even idle for months. As long as you don't need to frequently pull the pack for security reasons, no one has ever explained a good reason to disco battery mains to me on a 3phase motor as long as the controller has low power switch for the MCU.

A question about carbon. I've never worked with it. Are your side panels just 1 layer or more? How rigid is a single layer in epoxy?

Bike is looking great! It won't be too long before she sees some action.

John
Ok john
Thanks for the input, for now im still going to use one will look for a solar breaker, i still like thought that ive disconnected the battery from controller with the convenience of a switch.
What is the purpose for those drain down resistors, so if ive got my breaker closed and low power on/off line of the controller off. this should avoid this drain down resistor prob yeah.

Right luis john re carbon
My panels are not just a single lam of carbon, and rigidity depends on weight and weave ..... [ you could easy-ally do a hole thread on that] but in my case i just needed the panel mainly for cosmetic but with the added stiffness a bonus, so i used the divinycell sandwich technique, so from bottom 6ox glass then 3mm divinicell then uni carbon and finally twill on the outside , using this technique you get a unreal weight to stiffness ratio.
But to do it properly you need a vacuum setup or compression i used compression this time with two flat heavy desk panels seen in earlier pics, any one can use the compression technique at home.
Hope your right about me finishing it.
 
Update time last few days have been one step forward one step back" thats life", some times having bad makes good even better, the step backward has been the seatpost structure some how i got my angle wrong i looked at my plans and see mi mistake it would have worked but looked out of place , seat post was also to upright sooo back to fabing a new one.
The step forward is a custom battery harness this takes longer than i thought so 3 5000mah 30c turnigys in paralleled groups connected direct to the on-board board coming out at 18s.
Ive also put large female bullet connectors on every individual battery instead of permanently soldering, more work but if i get a dud cell way faster and easier to repair after all were dealing with hk lipo :roll: . ive allready had to replace a cell and used a 40c as you cant get 30c separate cells.
Batts will come out while i work on controller harness but stuff is happening :D
 

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