karma
10 kW
what you need is lots of sleep :wink:
2WD Semi-Recumbent Recycled-Parts Cargo eBike: "CrazyBike2"
- Thread starter amberwolf
- Start date
That's very true; i've been mostly sleeping the last week and a half, when I have not been at work, although that sleep isn't constant; too many things to wake me up including my own body. (and teh dogs checking to see if I'm ok whenever I cough in my sleep, which wakes me up if the coughing didnt').
I started to gather up wire to redo the whole non-motor wiring harness on the bike today, but didn't get very far before I had to stop. Later on I just sat down and fixed the Fusin I screwed up last month on DayGlo Avenger, and test rode it ok.
The wiring harness I want to redo with single-cable wires, probably using old computer cables, preferably with connectors to the various points on the bike using the connectors already on the cables. The only ones that have enough wires are old printer cables or serial cables. Since these have very thin wires, typically, I'll probably have to double or triple up some of the conductors for the incandescent turn signals, though the rest of the lights dont' take enough current to worry about that. (another reason I wish these were LED, but I have yet to get the LED boards finished to fix that).
That should fix all the wierd wiring problems I've had from this re-used scooter harness, as well as neaten up the bike a lot. I just have to dig out enough cables that work together to actually do this, plus have enough time in one day off to do the whole thing, so I don't have to use DGA to ride to work while fixing CB2.
I started to gather up wire to redo the whole non-motor wiring harness on the bike today, but didn't get very far before I had to stop. Later on I just sat down and fixed the Fusin I screwed up last month on DayGlo Avenger, and test rode it ok.
The wiring harness I want to redo with single-cable wires, probably using old computer cables, preferably with connectors to the various points on the bike using the connectors already on the cables. The only ones that have enough wires are old printer cables or serial cables. Since these have very thin wires, typically, I'll probably have to double or triple up some of the conductors for the incandescent turn signals, though the rest of the lights dont' take enough current to worry about that. (another reason I wish these were LED, but I have yet to get the LED boards finished to fix that).
That should fix all the wierd wiring problems I've had from this re-used scooter harness, as well as neaten up the bike a lot. I just have to dig out enough cables that work together to actually do this, plus have enough time in one day off to do the whole thing, so I don't have to use DGA to ride to work while fixing CB2.
still been resting more than anything to get rid of this crud, so not a lot happening.
Tonite i decided that i wanted to start experimenting with the CA controlling limits on the motor/etc, which needs the direct plugin that isn't yet on the generic 12fet I've been using since the Undead Race.
Rather than opening up a wrking controller to hook up the necessary wires, and risk blowing i tor something, i figured it would be safer to use teh other controller i already have mounted n cb2 as a spare: a donated-as-broken-then-repaired Methods 18fet with all the bells and whistles for connectors, including the high/low voltage switch.
The only catch with using it si taht i had long forgotten what hall/phase combo to use, which i'm sure i wrote down but apparently never posted here on ES nor could i find the chart i made when i determined that. I also wasn't smart enough to write it on the controller, which i DID do on the 12FET.
So I spent an hour and a half going thru ALL the hall/phase combos between the 18FET and the 9C, and NONE of them work right. Many make it move a bit, shudder, or turn slowly at high amps, but nothing normal. I went thru them three times, with the spreadsheet to be found elsewhere on ES, to be sure, and got the same results each time, so i'm not doing it wrong. Most likely something is wrong with the hall connector or wires on the 18FET so that it isn't matng correctly with the motor connector (both JST-SM 6pin).
I expected it to work the same as the 12FET because I thought they had worked teh hsame before and that the wire colors went to the same points inside the controllers. I'll have to open them both up later to compare.
For now, it's just hooked back up to the 12FET, which works fine, and i'll have to figure it out later.
FWIW, the 18FET works fine with the FUsin, using the same color pattern as the 6FET. So i dunno what the deal is.
I guess I'll just take the 18FET off CB2 since it doesn't work with it anyway, and at least it'll be safe at home if something happens to CB2. No point in having it as a spare if I can't just plug it in and go.
I got a crystalyte 12 or 18fet with an odd problem from Karma, i guess it has a throtle issue where it only owrks if you pedal it up first but I have yet to try it out. I'll have to see what I can do about that, and then use it as the spare on cb2, till i figure out what's going on with the ohter 18fet.
Tonite i decided that i wanted to start experimenting with the CA controlling limits on the motor/etc, which needs the direct plugin that isn't yet on the generic 12fet I've been using since the Undead Race.
Rather than opening up a wrking controller to hook up the necessary wires, and risk blowing i tor something, i figured it would be safer to use teh other controller i already have mounted n cb2 as a spare: a donated-as-broken-then-repaired Methods 18fet with all the bells and whistles for connectors, including the high/low voltage switch.
The only catch with using it si taht i had long forgotten what hall/phase combo to use, which i'm sure i wrote down but apparently never posted here on ES nor could i find the chart i made when i determined that. I also wasn't smart enough to write it on the controller, which i DID do on the 12FET.
So I spent an hour and a half going thru ALL the hall/phase combos between the 18FET and the 9C, and NONE of them work right. Many make it move a bit, shudder, or turn slowly at high amps, but nothing normal. I went thru them three times, with the spreadsheet to be found elsewhere on ES, to be sure, and got the same results each time, so i'm not doing it wrong. Most likely something is wrong with the hall connector or wires on the 18FET so that it isn't matng correctly with the motor connector (both JST-SM 6pin).
I expected it to work the same as the 12FET because I thought they had worked teh hsame before and that the wire colors went to the same points inside the controllers. I'll have to open them both up later to compare.
For now, it's just hooked back up to the 12FET, which works fine, and i'll have to figure it out later.
FWIW, the 18FET works fine with the FUsin, using the same color pattern as the 6FET. So i dunno what the deal is.
I guess I'll just take the 18FET off CB2 since it doesn't work with it anyway, and at least it'll be safe at home if something happens to CB2. No point in having it as a spare if I can't just plug it in and go.
I got a crystalyte 12 or 18fet with an odd problem from Karma, i guess it has a throtle issue where it only owrks if you pedal it up first but I have yet to try it out. I'll have to see what I can do about that, and then use it as the spare on cb2, till i figure out what's going on with the ohter 18fet.
Tonite just before leaving work, I decided to start trying to run the bike on all three NiMH packs it's got on there: 24V + 24V + 12V (the lighting pack). Usually it's just the first two, and I only ran it this way during the Undead Race last October, and not since then IIRC.
Since it's all Anderson PPs it's easy to reconfigure, and I just wired the 12V pack at the "bottom" of the total pack, so that I could twist into place the wires off the 12V lighting system into it still, so I didn't lose my brake and turn signals for my night ride home. I really need to put a "tap" style Anderson setup on there, like the CA shunt has, so I can just keep it wired this way all the time without any haphazard splices like I used tonight.
I may do this later tonight when I get up again to go see Nana and Fred (who aren't currently allowed in the bedroom with Bonnie, due to an unexpected fight they all got into a few days ago, after months of no problems at all), so that they aren't all grumpy and unhappy with not seeing much of me. (they're all used to sleeping in the bed with me).
I also recklessly decided to see how long it took to get to the max speed with this setup, on the one long (>1/4 mile) stretch of 40MPH-speed-limit road I ride on the way home. It took about 20 seconds from zero MPH as I pulled out of the intersecting side street to the max I could get in that distance of 28.2MPH, before I had to start braking to not hit the cars waiting in the left hand turn lane (which was actually green arrowed-already, but they weren't yet moving fast enough for me to not crunch one before they got going).
I could smell my poor V-brake pads as I got down to about 8MPH before the cars moved fast enough for me to start accelerating again. Bad part is I definitely can't stop completely from that kind of speed with these brakes, in any short distances. Even at full squeeze I only lost about 5MPH per second at the top end.
I really need to figure out how to implement disc brakes on the front 9C hub, somehow, and get at least SOME kind of brakes on the rear wheel. It still has none ATM as there are no mounts for any, and I have yet to build some for it for vbrakes or disc. I had regular old caliper brakes on it at one time, but they not only didn't do much of a job of slowing me, they actually damaged tire sidewalls as they pulled out of place with the force on them.
Preferably I'd leave the Vbrakes on teh front as well as the disc, for extra stopping power and for a backup in case of one or the other failing.
Also, I need to implement a relay on the brake lever switch (already in place for the brake lights) to enable use of regen braking, so I can use the motor as a brake, too. It probably won't be much help at 48V, maybe very little at 60V, but it will be some, hopefully. I have such a relay already on DayGlo Avenger for this purpose, so I know it works.
I still don't get fast acceleration, actually less so than during the Undead Race, probably because of the cooler temperatures right now, though it could also be the aging of the NiMH packs. Max amps I could pull was about 32A for a second, dropping quickly to about 23-26A (all at max throttle). THis would probably be a bit higher at freshly charged, as the batteries would be hotter inside already, but after sitting for hours after the to-work commute, in the cold warehouse room, I'd guess they were probably down to 55-60F. I think I could get more like 40A pulls during the race, and after that even at 48V only, as a commuter, IIRC.
I'm sure it'll be better with the 48V Vpower/CammyCC pack (but that wont' really do race speeds, unless I series it with some paralleled NiMH). I KNOW it would be better with the TS60AH cells but I only have 32V worth of those (10 cells), so I would have to use a thru-the-gears setup to even get 20MPH.
Using the Methods 18FET controller would probably also help, instead of the generic 12FET, but I gotta figure out what the heck is going on with the hall/phase combo problem first.
Oddly enough, even with the long hard accel on that straight, plus as much more hard fast riding as I dared, I still only had 26Wh/mile when I got home. I really expected it to be much worse than that.
I still need to try a longer stretch of preferably non-public road to see how fast I can get and how long it really takes. But gotta do something about the brakes first, so I can stop quick in case of bad stuff.
Since it's all Anderson PPs it's easy to reconfigure, and I just wired the 12V pack at the "bottom" of the total pack, so that I could twist into place the wires off the 12V lighting system into it still, so I didn't lose my brake and turn signals for my night ride home. I really need to put a "tap" style Anderson setup on there, like the CA shunt has, so I can just keep it wired this way all the time without any haphazard splices like I used tonight.
I may do this later tonight when I get up again to go see Nana and Fred (who aren't currently allowed in the bedroom with Bonnie, due to an unexpected fight they all got into a few days ago, after months of no problems at all), so that they aren't all grumpy and unhappy with not seeing much of me. (they're all used to sleeping in the bed with me).
I also recklessly decided to see how long it took to get to the max speed with this setup, on the one long (>1/4 mile) stretch of 40MPH-speed-limit road I ride on the way home. It took about 20 seconds from zero MPH as I pulled out of the intersecting side street to the max I could get in that distance of 28.2MPH, before I had to start braking to not hit the cars waiting in the left hand turn lane (which was actually green arrowed-already, but they weren't yet moving fast enough for me to not crunch one before they got going).
I could smell my poor V-brake pads as I got down to about 8MPH before the cars moved fast enough for me to start accelerating again. Bad part is I definitely can't stop completely from that kind of speed with these brakes, in any short distances. Even at full squeeze I only lost about 5MPH per second at the top end.
I really need to figure out how to implement disc brakes on the front 9C hub, somehow, and get at least SOME kind of brakes on the rear wheel. It still has none ATM as there are no mounts for any, and I have yet to build some for it for vbrakes or disc. I had regular old caliper brakes on it at one time, but they not only didn't do much of a job of slowing me, they actually damaged tire sidewalls as they pulled out of place with the force on them.
Preferably I'd leave the Vbrakes on teh front as well as the disc, for extra stopping power and for a backup in case of one or the other failing.
Also, I need to implement a relay on the brake lever switch (already in place for the brake lights) to enable use of regen braking, so I can use the motor as a brake, too. It probably won't be much help at 48V, maybe very little at 60V, but it will be some, hopefully. I have such a relay already on DayGlo Avenger for this purpose, so I know it works.
I still don't get fast acceleration, actually less so than during the Undead Race, probably because of the cooler temperatures right now, though it could also be the aging of the NiMH packs. Max amps I could pull was about 32A for a second, dropping quickly to about 23-26A (all at max throttle). THis would probably be a bit higher at freshly charged, as the batteries would be hotter inside already, but after sitting for hours after the to-work commute, in the cold warehouse room, I'd guess they were probably down to 55-60F. I think I could get more like 40A pulls during the race, and after that even at 48V only, as a commuter, IIRC.
I'm sure it'll be better with the 48V Vpower/CammyCC pack (but that wont' really do race speeds, unless I series it with some paralleled NiMH). I KNOW it would be better with the TS60AH cells but I only have 32V worth of those (10 cells), so I would have to use a thru-the-gears setup to even get 20MPH.
Using the Methods 18FET controller would probably also help, instead of the generic 12FET, but I gotta figure out what the heck is going on with the hall/phase combo problem first.
Oddly enough, even with the long hard accel on that straight, plus as much more hard fast riding as I dared, I still only had 26Wh/mile when I got home. I really expected it to be much worse than that.
I still need to try a longer stretch of preferably non-public road to see how fast I can get and how long it really takes. But gotta do something about the brakes first, so I can stop quick in case of bad stuff.
amberwolf said:
I've had the same experience so far. Riding @ 35-40kph range, my bike didn't consume too much more juice than @ 25-30. Sure you produce more aero drag going faster, but you have more switching losses at low speeds and the motor is less effective. Going past 40kph up to 60kph, the Wh/km consumption doubles on my rig.
amberwolf said:
It would kinda defeat the "recycled" nature of the bike, however I do recommend a good set of brakes, especially if you can't get a disc mount. To my great surprise, I found my V-brakes to be very effective in pretty much any situation, even at high speeds and cold/wet. They are a top end model, the older Shimano XT that still used parallel linkages to drive the pads in a linear fashion, just like a derailleur linkage. Also the LX and XTR used the same linkage at some point of time, perhaps late 90's to early 00's. Though I stole mine new for €25/set at blowout, I'm afraid you cannot buy these brakes new anymore as they've been discontinued for some time, but a used pair would compliment your bike much more anyway! :wink:
I fully expect that if I were to ride at the 25-30MPH all the time, I'd have significantly higher Wh/mile. I'll see for sure about that at the Death Race if I can make it, as I will be able to ride as fast as I can control the bike on turns, and hopefully increase the startup torque to get faster acceleration out of curves and from a stop (20+ seconds from zero to 28MPH is terrible).miuan said:
Someone on ES once offered to buy some good Shimano levers and arms/pads for me but never got around to it. It doesnt' really matter because I've got the main stuff I need for disc brakes (a few sets of calipers, both new and used, and several sizes of rotors) except the mounts on the fork (or rear frame) itself for the calipers, and a mounting point on the 9C in front or the regular hub in the rear. So it mostly comes down to time to do the work, and tools and knowledge to do it right (or experimentation). TIme is the biggest problem.
I prefer to keep to the recycled parts for the projects, but have nothing against new parts except that I generally cant' afford them.
I think my main problem is that my lever doesn't really match the arms being used, as the lever is from a Honda scooter (part of the switch cluster and mirror mount), but the arms are from a Shimano system (I forget which one). What I need to do to make them really effective is to eliminate the Honda lever, and use a complete matched set off of one of my better bike finds, like the Nishiki (which has some pretty good Shimano stuff, cant' remember which series though). Or even the ones off the rear of a Mongoose I got at a thrift store for it's front disc stuff--it's rear vbrakes would actually do a good job of locking up the rear wheel on that bike during the little testing I did of it as a bike when I first picked it up.
The reason I haven't, mostly, is it requires I work out a different switch for the brake lights then, rather than the simple and effective (and weatherproof) one that is built into the Honda levers. Since I am *trying* to keep to KISS principles, partly out of laziness but mostly because I overthink so many things that I am better off leaving stuff alone most of the time, I've kept away from changing this part of the system.
Plus, the Honda lever has a parking brake latch built in, too, and I really like that, so I'd have to build something to do this function, too.
Still, it's the eventual best solution to the vbrake problem, though not the simplest.
The system I would most like to work out is essentially plug braking, as it doesnt' depend on boosting the voltage high enough to generate high currents back to the batteries during braking, which is what gives the loading that causes effective braking with regen. But to do it the way I want requires building an analog-brake-signal controlled PWM module to send the motor phase outputs to the resistive plug elements, as I want much more than on/off control of the motor braking. Also, it requires graceful switching and isolation between the controller's FET outputs and the braking unit's FETs, so I am not shorting out the controller's FETs during braking. I expect this would take significant experimentation, and probably at least a few sets of blown FETs in the various experimental units before I figured out how to do it right, if I ever did.
I'd rather use regen braking into the battery, but at higher voltages for battery packs, this gets problematic to do because the voltages necessary to cause regen currents sufficient to brake the motor strongly will probably need to be so much higher than the hot-off-charger battery voltage that the FETs and caps in typical controllers (or even modded/built ones like the Methods 18FET) will be at or beyond their voltage ratings during braking, and I'll blow them up sooner or later. Going with higher voltage FETs to fix that will result in more losses just running as a motor, possibly enough to offset significant amounts of what I'd've been getting back as regen power.
So... for now I'll pursue getting regen working on the 9C/generic 12FET, plus probably replacing the Honda lever with the right one for these vbrakes. Then the disc stuff, as it's gotta be more mechanically precise in my designs and parts manufacture, as well as assembly, and I'm not so great at that, so it's less likley to work as well as I hope.
Still running on the 24+24+12V NiMH, I did some hard riding on the way to and from work today while watching amps and voltage sag on the CA, and then some more testing once I got home and could wire up a second meter (TWM2) to just the 12V pack, to see where the bottleneck is on the amps, as it didn't really feel like it has the punch it should even hot off the charger with a pretty warm pack.
What I found is that as it approaches 10-15A, the ~60V nominal, ~68V operational (and closer to 75V hot off the charger), dips down to ~48V or less, and as it exceeds 15A it dives to ~42V. That's pretty bad sag, indicating likely a bad cell or possibly the whole 12V pack (it did come from a known-damaged 24V pack, that had been overcharged and overheated due to thermistor failure).
48V means less than 1V per cell average (50 cells total, 20+20+10), and is generally a bad thing to do to NiMH. 42V means something is seriously wrong somewhere.
Using the TWM1 on just the 12V pack, I went back out for a spin around the block, hitting the throttle hard and watching the results. When the CA saw 42V, the 12V pack was less than 6V! Once, I thought I saw 4.2V but I am not positive, as the TWM's screen is really laggy at the 45F temps I was riding in (it's already below freezing now, only three hours later). I stupidly switched off the main breaker, disconnecting the TWM from power and clearing it, when I got back to the house (because I am used to the CA remembering it's readings probably), so I don't know what the true Vmin was.
Anyway, this tells me that this 12V pack shouldn't be used as a traction pack, or I may well damage it further. I will first try deep discharging it and then recharging it, repeatedly, to see whether anything either dies or fixes itself, as I did have improvement when cycling the 24V packs that way when I first started using them. If it doesn't work out, I'll just use it for lighting like I had been, and maybe see if McDesign ever gets any F-cell NiMH in the stuff he's been giving away for shipping costs.
What I *should* do is get the Vpower/CammyCC pack enclosed in a protective box as planned (still waiting on the formed Kydex pieces so I will have to come up with something else in the meantime), and then series it with the two 24V NiMH packs, paralleled together for discharge but disconnected for charging.
Maybe that will perform better, since the Vpower pack should perform ok at up to 2C, which right now with the missing cell should be about 36A, and the NiMH packs paralleled should easily handle that without sagging so much. Even in series they'll handle it ok, but since that's 3C for a healthy NiMH and these aren't healthy, they will sag a lot. (also I don't think the generic 12FET will handle the full hot-off-charger voltage of all three in series; have to recheck what FETs and caps it has, and it's low-voltage regulator stuff; probably have to get the 18FET working that's already upgraded to 100V stuff).
Anyway, for now, I'll continue running 24+24+12 NiMH until I either pop something in the 12V or it heals itself.
What I found is that as it approaches 10-15A, the ~60V nominal, ~68V operational (and closer to 75V hot off the charger), dips down to ~48V or less, and as it exceeds 15A it dives to ~42V. That's pretty bad sag, indicating likely a bad cell or possibly the whole 12V pack (it did come from a known-damaged 24V pack, that had been overcharged and overheated due to thermistor failure).
48V means less than 1V per cell average (50 cells total, 20+20+10), and is generally a bad thing to do to NiMH. 42V means something is seriously wrong somewhere.
Using the TWM1 on just the 12V pack, I went back out for a spin around the block, hitting the throttle hard and watching the results. When the CA saw 42V, the 12V pack was less than 6V! Once, I thought I saw 4.2V but I am not positive, as the TWM's screen is really laggy at the 45F temps I was riding in (it's already below freezing now, only three hours later). I stupidly switched off the main breaker, disconnecting the TWM from power and clearing it, when I got back to the house (because I am used to the CA remembering it's readings probably), so I don't know what the true Vmin was.
Anyway, this tells me that this 12V pack shouldn't be used as a traction pack, or I may well damage it further. I will first try deep discharging it and then recharging it, repeatedly, to see whether anything either dies or fixes itself, as I did have improvement when cycling the 24V packs that way when I first started using them. If it doesn't work out, I'll just use it for lighting like I had been, and maybe see if McDesign ever gets any F-cell NiMH in the stuff he's been giving away for shipping costs.
What I *should* do is get the Vpower/CammyCC pack enclosed in a protective box as planned (still waiting on the formed Kydex pieces so I will have to come up with something else in the meantime), and then series it with the two 24V NiMH packs, paralleled together for discharge but disconnected for charging.
Maybe that will perform better, since the Vpower pack should perform ok at up to 2C, which right now with the missing cell should be about 36A, and the NiMH packs paralleled should easily handle that without sagging so much. Even in series they'll handle it ok, but since that's 3C for a healthy NiMH and these aren't healthy, they will sag a lot. (also I don't think the generic 12FET will handle the full hot-off-charger voltage of all three in series; have to recheck what FETs and caps it has, and it's low-voltage regulator stuff; probably have to get the 18FET working that's already upgraded to 100V stuff).
Anyway, for now, I'll continue running 24+24+12 NiMH until I either pop something in the 12V or it heals itself.
I still keep forgetting important things, like writing down the usage data from the CA, and charging data from the TWMs.
I forgot to clear the CA data before my ride to work today, so I did that just before heading home, but naturally I thought of writing it down just *after* clearing it.
So I did remember when I got home to write down that leg of the journey, at least. I went to Safeway on the way home for some groceries, so there's about an extra mile and a half or so, making it close to my typical work commute for distance, but the path taken and lack of traffic at night meant i could keep my speed up at 20MPH quite a lot of the time.
17m 5s trip time
4.628miles
22.8mph max
16.2mph avg
2.308Ah
127.1Wh
27.6Wh/mile
51.72Amax
63.5Vstart
43.7Vmin
62.3Vrest after trip
(70V start fresh of charger before work).
I had time and no distractions so was able to repeatedly check my wattage at 20MPH, and it averages around 400W. Not much wind in any direction. Max I saw was about 450W, min about 350W, trying to only check while holding throttle steady and only after I'd been at speed for at least a few seconds.
Problem is that to see W I have to press the right button, and then I can't see speed, so I have to keep switching back and forth. Can only do that when there is zero traffic and I am on roads I know don't have potholes/etc.
Mostly off-topic:
Riding is harder at the moment, because of a lightly sprained ankle, swollen a bit and painful to walk or stand on for any length of time. Been using a Bubba Stix cane to walk on, found a place to stick it on the bike by feeding the cane down thru the lighting-support bar on the back of the seat and into the cargo pod, then half-closing the lid against it. With other stuff in the pod as usual, it stays there very well.
If I find the need to ride with the lid shut, I'll have to strap the cane along the cargo pod support rail instead. If I end up having to use the cane permanently (as it is really hurting my already-bad left knee and not-so-bad foot to have to put all my weight on it, instead of using the now-injured right leg to take my weight off of it like i had been up to now), I'll have to design some sort of cane-carrier for the bike, so it doesn't take up cargo pod space. Probably some sort of built-in cinch-strap on the cargo pod rail, similar to that used to secure tubular air pumps to downtubes and the like.
Definitely off-topic, kind of a rant:
That ankle makes slow-speed riding when I must balance by keeping feet out to the sides difficult, as pushing off with that foot is quite painful. Not helped a bit by lots of idiots in the parking lot at work this week and end of last, who seem to be attracted to the new In-n-Out burger place that just replaced Islands there. Really stupid drive thru design, inlet is right at the inlet path into the parking lot, where it should have been from the other direction where not many people drive around or park, most of the time.
The way they laid it out, the drivethru line of cars "ends" at this inlet path, but what really happens is that during the usual peak parking lot traffic times of day, it gets much worse than it ever has been (even during massive holiday shopping times!) because the burger place drivethru line ends up backing up by a dozen or two cars, and half of them are filling up the incoming side of the inlet path, and the other half are blocking that inlet path at the drivetrhu entrance point, continuing west across that whole path and back to the other inlet on Peoria a short ways west of the main one (and sometimes blocking that one, too).
The west-east line won't leave a gap across the inlet for non-drivethru traffic to pass thru because if they do then the ones waiting to order on the main inlet will poke in there and "steal" their place, themselves blocking the traffic. There've already been a couple of arguments about it where people got out of their cars to yell at each other. Also, the Peoria inlet road itself sometimes gets backed up so much that there are cars on Peoria itself waiting to get into the shopping center, blocking other traffic in that right lane on Peoria.
If the drivethru entrance simply pointed east instead of west, the problem wouldn't exist because the only way to get to it would be from the east, so the whole line would be in the parking lot over that way, not causing all these problems. Even though it's only for maybe an hour or so two or three times a day (as far as I've been there to see so far), it's pretty dang serious when it's happening, especially when it's such an unthinkng stupidity that causes it in the first place.
I wrote that all up nicely with some diagrams and sent it to In-n-Out and the shopping center management, but I doubt anything will change until either a shooting occurs over someone's place in line being "stolen" (I'm pretty sure this will happen), or car-car or car-pedestrian collisions occur because of the traffic situation.
I've almost been run over twice now by people trying to get to the drivethru before someone else; the parking lot is already badly enough designed it doesnt' need "help" like this to get people hurt or killed.
I forgot to clear the CA data before my ride to work today, so I did that just before heading home, but naturally I thought of writing it down just *after* clearing it.
So I did remember when I got home to write down that leg of the journey, at least. I went to Safeway on the way home for some groceries, so there's about an extra mile and a half or so, making it close to my typical work commute for distance, but the path taken and lack of traffic at night meant i could keep my speed up at 20MPH quite a lot of the time.
17m 5s trip time
4.628miles
22.8mph max
16.2mph avg
2.308Ah
127.1Wh
27.6Wh/mile
51.72Amax
63.5Vstart
43.7Vmin
62.3Vrest after trip
(70V start fresh of charger before work).
I had time and no distractions so was able to repeatedly check my wattage at 20MPH, and it averages around 400W. Not much wind in any direction. Max I saw was about 450W, min about 350W, trying to only check while holding throttle steady and only after I'd been at speed for at least a few seconds.
Problem is that to see W I have to press the right button, and then I can't see speed, so I have to keep switching back and forth. Can only do that when there is zero traffic and I am on roads I know don't have potholes/etc.
Mostly off-topic:
Riding is harder at the moment, because of a lightly sprained ankle, swollen a bit and painful to walk or stand on for any length of time. Been using a Bubba Stix cane to walk on, found a place to stick it on the bike by feeding the cane down thru the lighting-support bar on the back of the seat and into the cargo pod, then half-closing the lid against it. With other stuff in the pod as usual, it stays there very well.
If I find the need to ride with the lid shut, I'll have to strap the cane along the cargo pod support rail instead. If I end up having to use the cane permanently (as it is really hurting my already-bad left knee and not-so-bad foot to have to put all my weight on it, instead of using the now-injured right leg to take my weight off of it like i had been up to now), I'll have to design some sort of cane-carrier for the bike, so it doesn't take up cargo pod space. Probably some sort of built-in cinch-strap on the cargo pod rail, similar to that used to secure tubular air pumps to downtubes and the like.
Definitely off-topic, kind of a rant:
That ankle makes slow-speed riding when I must balance by keeping feet out to the sides difficult, as pushing off with that foot is quite painful. Not helped a bit by lots of idiots in the parking lot at work this week and end of last, who seem to be attracted to the new In-n-Out burger place that just replaced Islands there. Really stupid drive thru design, inlet is right at the inlet path into the parking lot, where it should have been from the other direction where not many people drive around or park, most of the time.
The way they laid it out, the drivethru line of cars "ends" at this inlet path, but what really happens is that during the usual peak parking lot traffic times of day, it gets much worse than it ever has been (even during massive holiday shopping times!) because the burger place drivethru line ends up backing up by a dozen or two cars, and half of them are filling up the incoming side of the inlet path, and the other half are blocking that inlet path at the drivetrhu entrance point, continuing west across that whole path and back to the other inlet on Peoria a short ways west of the main one (and sometimes blocking that one, too).
The west-east line won't leave a gap across the inlet for non-drivethru traffic to pass thru because if they do then the ones waiting to order on the main inlet will poke in there and "steal" their place, themselves blocking the traffic. There've already been a couple of arguments about it where people got out of their cars to yell at each other.
Also, the Peoria inlet road itself sometimes gets backed up so much that there are cars on Peoria itself waiting to get into the shopping center, blocking other traffic in that right lane on Peoria. If the drivethru entrance simply pointed east instead of west, the problem wouldn't exist because the only way to get to it would be from the east, so the whole line would be in the parking lot over that way, not causing all these problems. Even though it's only for maybe an hour or so two or three times a day (as far as I've been there to see so far), it's pretty dang serious when it's happening, especially when it's such an unthinkng stupidity that causes it in the first place.
I wrote that all up nicely with some diagrams and sent it to In-n-Out and the shopping center management, but I doubt anything will change until either a shooting occurs over someone's place in line being "stolen" (I'm pretty sure this will happen), or car-car or car-pedestrian collisions occur because of the traffic situation.
I've almost been run over twice now by people trying to get to the drivethru before someone else; the parking lot is already badly enough designed it doesnt' need "help" like this to get people hurt or killed.
More data today, less griping.
Just my commute today, but slightly different return-home path so it's shorter than usual. Even so, it's notably higher Wh/mile, but I'm not sure why; it was about the same no-wind conditions both ways.
27.6Wh/mile yesterday and 29.3Wh/mile today
4.628 miles yesterday, 4.364 miles today, so similar but lower distance today.
16.2mph avg yesterday, 14.3 mph avg today, so similar but lower speed today.
Not really sure what is causing such higher power usage, with less distance and lower speeds. There's about the same number of stops on the different return path as on the usual one, so startup power usage shouldn't be affecting it that much. I guess it's just that there was higher voltage available on at least the first half of today's trip vs the one yesterday (which only counts the trip home after work, and doesn't include the first half of the usual commute). Just seems odd that it would make that much difference, especially given that things like the max amps are *lower* for today's trip.
Anyhow, here's the full numbers:
18m 18s trip time
4.364miles
22.2mph max
14.3mph avg
2.256Ah
126.55Wh
29.3Wh/mile
49.94Amax
70Vstart
44.2Vmin
63.7Vrest
Now for some charging data (I didn't have time to write last night's down before leaving for work today, unfortunately; hopefully I will be able to tomorrow (or tonite) for tonite's charging). Since there are now three packs, 24V PackA and 24V PackB, plus a new 12V pack, that last one becomes PackC. All I have ATM is the start of charging:
PackA (TWM2):
25.68Vrest
2.94Ap
76.9Wp
PackB (TWM1):
25.8Vrest
2.98Ap
78.4Wp
PackC (WU1):
12.58Vrest
1.65Ap
21.2Wp
PackA and B are being charged by the HiPower chargers, but PackC is being charged by the Tenergy charger, which only charges in bursts of a second or two and then turns off for the same period (presumably so it can read the pack voltage), cyclically. It only has a max of 1.8A, but isn't drawing that much on this pack at this SOC.
I'm gonna take PackC off the bike after I get back from work tomorrow and try it out on the big Sorenson, current-limited to 3A like the HighPowers are, with the max voltage set to
If that makes any difference to how well PackC works after a few charge/discharge cycles, then I am going to see if I can get that blown high-current 12V-ish charger GCinDC sent me working, and fix up a current limit for it, to see if I can bulk charge PackC with that for the first 80-90% of the recharge, then finish the charge with the Tenergy charger (since it has a thermistor and whatnot, and the high-current one doesn't as it isn't a NiMH charger).
Only reason for that is that the Sorenson only runs off my dryer outlet line ATM, and there's no way to get the bike over to that part of the house right now, and I have zero intentions of taking the 12V pack off the bike to charge it every time.
IIRC, I think it *could* be run off the 115 lines but I would need to make a new cord for it, for which I don't have a spare Sorenson-end connector. So I'd have to either splice into the existing cord outside the connector (dangerous, possibly) or once again remove the existing cord from the pins in the connector and put the 115V cord on there. Alternately, wire the 115V cord directly to the terminals inside the unit, which would then require insulating the ends of the 220V cord prongs.
Anyway, hopefully it will make some difference to "balance" the cells, as I don't think that's being done by the Tenergy. I really think it's only charging up to typical 1.2V/cell, and isn't going past that to get to the balancing currents/voltages. Pack doesnt' get warm during charging with the Tenergy, so it isnt' doing that.
Just my commute today, but slightly different return-home path so it's shorter than usual. Even so, it's notably higher Wh/mile, but I'm not sure why; it was about the same no-wind conditions both ways.
27.6Wh/mile yesterday and 29.3Wh/mile today
4.628 miles yesterday, 4.364 miles today, so similar but lower distance today.
16.2mph avg yesterday, 14.3 mph avg today, so similar but lower speed today.
Not really sure what is causing such higher power usage, with less distance and lower speeds.
There's about the same number of stops on the different return path as on the usual one, so startup power usage shouldn't be affecting it that much. I guess it's just that there was higher voltage available on at least the first half of today's trip vs the one yesterday (which only counts the trip home after work, and doesn't include the first half of the usual commute). Just seems odd that it would make that much difference, especially given that things like the max amps are *lower* for today's trip.Anyhow, here's the full numbers:
18m 18s trip time
4.364miles
22.2mph max
14.3mph avg
2.256Ah
126.55Wh
29.3Wh/mile
49.94Amax
70Vstart
44.2Vmin
63.7Vrest
Now for some charging data (I didn't have time to write last night's down before leaving for work today, unfortunately; hopefully I will be able to tomorrow (or tonite) for tonite's charging). Since there are now three packs, 24V PackA and 24V PackB, plus a new 12V pack, that last one becomes PackC. All I have ATM is the start of charging:
PackA (TWM2):
25.68Vrest
2.94Ap
76.9Wp
PackB (TWM1):
25.8Vrest
2.98Ap
78.4Wp
PackC (WU1):
12.58Vrest
1.65Ap
21.2Wp
PackA and B are being charged by the HiPower chargers, but PackC is being charged by the Tenergy charger, which only charges in bursts of a second or two and then turns off for the same period (presumably so it can read the pack voltage), cyclically. It only has a max of 1.8A, but isn't drawing that much on this pack at this SOC.
I'm gonna take PackC off the bike after I get back from work tomorrow and try it out on the big Sorenson, current-limited to 3A like the HighPowers are, with the max voltage set to
If that makes any difference to how well PackC works after a few charge/discharge cycles, then I am going to see if I can get that blown high-current 12V-ish charger GCinDC sent me working, and fix up a current limit for it, to see if I can bulk charge PackC with that for the first 80-90% of the recharge, then finish the charge with the Tenergy charger (since it has a thermistor and whatnot, and the high-current one doesn't as it isn't a NiMH charger).
Only reason for that is that the Sorenson only runs off my dryer outlet line ATM, and there's no way to get the bike over to that part of the house right now, and I have zero intentions of taking the 12V pack off the bike to charge it every time.
IIRC, I think it *could* be run off the 115 lines but I would need to make a new cord for it, for which I don't have a spare Sorenson-end connector. So I'd have to either splice into the existing cord outside the connector (dangerous, possibly) or once again remove the existing cord from the pins in the connector and put the 115V cord on there. Alternately, wire the 115V cord directly to the terminals inside the unit, which would then require insulating the ends of the 220V cord prongs.
Anyway, hopefully it will make some difference to "balance" the cells, as I don't think that's being done by the Tenergy. I really think it's only charging up to typical 1.2V/cell, and isn't going past that to get to the balancing currents/voltages. Pack doesnt' get warm during charging with the Tenergy, so it isnt' doing that.
Was in a hurry to get to work yesterday morning all I had time to do was write down the charging data, not to post it, so here it is:
PackA (TWM2):
25.68Vstart
28.34Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
89.3Wp
137.1Wh
4.818Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.8Vstart
28.54Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.5Wp
126.4Wh
4.427Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.58Vstart
13.89Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.65Ap
24.2Wp
60.4Wh
4.256Ah
I was so wiped out when I came home from work and a trip to the store yesterday afternoon that I didn't even get it plugged back in to charge, and only got up long enough to feed myself and the dogs somewhere around 7pm, then again around 4am. Took until about noon today to actually finish sleeping, thanks to my various injuries, still being sick, and being out of my usual sleep cycle due to really early workday yesterday.
So here's the numbers from yesterday's trip, which includes aabout a 2mile detour to the store and back home, with 95lbs of groceries and stuff for the mile back (but at much slower average and peak speeds for that mile, of about 15MPH peak and 12-13MPH avg).
29m 49s trip time
7.144miles
23.7mph max
14.3mph avg
29.4Wh/mile
3.815Ah
210.91Wh
53.98Amax
70Vstart
63.1Vrest
43.6Vmin
It's recharging now, still using the Tenergy for the 12V pack as I'm not up to taking the pack off the bike and setting up the Sorenson in the utility room, and monitoring it manually to ensure no thermal problems. (no thermal sensing on the Sorenson, of course, though I could fix that if I built a circuit to read the thermistor and shutdown the Sorenson once it reaches a certain temperature, or better yet to begin limiting it's current severely above a lesser point, and nearly fully choke it at "full", just a tiny trickle after that).
PackA (TWM2):
25.68Vstart
28.34Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
89.3Wp
137.1Wh
4.818Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.8Vstart
28.54Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.5Wp
126.4Wh
4.427Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.58Vstart
13.89Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.65Ap
24.2Wp
60.4Wh
4.256Ah
I was so wiped out when I came home from work and a trip to the store yesterday afternoon that I didn't even get it plugged back in to charge, and only got up long enough to feed myself and the dogs somewhere around 7pm, then again around 4am. Took until about noon today to actually finish sleeping, thanks to my various injuries, still being sick, and being out of my usual sleep cycle due to really early workday yesterday.
So here's the numbers from yesterday's trip, which includes aabout a 2mile detour to the store and back home, with 95lbs of groceries and stuff for the mile back (but at much slower average and peak speeds for that mile, of about 15MPH peak and 12-13MPH avg).
29m 49s trip time
7.144miles
23.7mph max
14.3mph avg
29.4Wh/mile
3.815Ah
210.91Wh
53.98Amax
70Vstart
63.1Vrest
43.6Vmin
It's recharging now, still using the Tenergy for the 12V pack as I'm not up to taking the pack off the bike and setting up the Sorenson in the utility room, and monitoring it manually to ensure no thermal problems. (no thermal sensing on the Sorenson, of course, though I could fix that if I built a circuit to read the thermistor and shutdown the Sorenson once it reaches a certain temperature, or better yet to begin limiting it's current severely above a lesser point, and nearly fully choke it at "full", just a tiny trickle after that).
Charging just finished on PackA and B, though C is only halfway done so far, at about 2.7Ah.
PackA (TWM2):
25.32Vstart
29.54Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.5Wp
164.9Wh
5.804Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.35start
29.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.8Wp
152.9Wh
5.379Ah
PackC should have about two more hours to finish charging; I might no be here when it finishes, some friends will be picking me up for a tour of their new place, might be before it's done.
PackA (TWM2):
25.32Vstart
29.54Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.5Wp
164.9Wh
5.804Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.35start
29.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.8Wp
152.9Wh
5.379Ah
PackC should have about two more hours to finish charging; I might no be here when it finishes, some friends will be picking me up for a tour of their new place, might be before it's done.
docnjoj
1 GW
Hey AW! Shouldn't the NiMh stuff take a 1.4 volt charge per cell? Mine always used to on an Astroflight charger.
otherDoc
otherDoc
AFAIK, 1.4-1.5V during charging, yes. My 24V packs are 20 cells each, x 1.2V nominal, for 24V. So at ~29V hot off charger , that's 1.45V. At max charge point around 30V IIRC, it'd be about 1.5V/cell.
On the 12V pack, during charge it can be anywhere up to 14.5V on the Tenergy charger (it pulses on and off, so the reading is never stable long enough to be certain exactly what voltage it is, on the WU or TWMs), and it's 10 cells. That's about the same 1.45V per cell, but during charge. After charge and it's had time to fall (since the Tenergy charger ceases to output any voltage after charge is done, rather than trickle charge it) but not yet be used, it's probably closer to 1.3V/cell.
This pack falls quicker than the others after charge, either because it isnt' being balanced or because there's a cell (or several) that is going bad. That's part of the experiment I need to do with the Sorenson, to see if the balancing charge (where it charges long enough/fast enough/high enough voltage to heat up the cells) fixes anything.
On the 12V pack, during charge it can be anywhere up to 14.5V on the Tenergy charger (it pulses on and off, so the reading is never stable long enough to be certain exactly what voltage it is, on the WU or TWMs), and it's 10 cells. That's about the same 1.45V per cell, but during charge. After charge and it's had time to fall (since the Tenergy charger ceases to output any voltage after charge is done, rather than trickle charge it) but not yet be used, it's probably closer to 1.3V/cell.
This pack falls quicker than the others after charge, either because it isnt' being balanced or because there's a cell (or several) that is going bad. That's part of the experiment I need to do with the Sorenson, to see if the balancing charge (where it charges long enough/fast enough/high enough voltage to heat up the cells) fixes anything.
PackC charge results, with WU1:
12.41Vstart
14.35Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
1.64Ap
23.7Wp
65.9Wh
4.753Ah
Then the ride today, for my 3-hour worknight. On the way there it was pretty windy, naturally from almost directly north most of my way there, against my direction of travel. My Wh/mile was 39.2, for the trip there, all other conditions the same as usual.
Actually, not quite--I had the rightside cargo pod mounted and I normally don't; I had to pickup another bag of dog food today as the dogs only have about 4 days left of it or so. Took several months to use up the last batch of clearanced stuff, so that's pretty good. This time we don't have anything like that, and havent' since last time, so I gotta just go for the cheap stuff (which is even on sale for another couple bucks off). I'll have to try for a trailer full of it later in the week when I have a day off I can spend getting it and going home with it, or maybe take the trailer to work on my morning shift so I can take the food home in it in the afternoon. Figure that out later.
Anyhow, since I had gone out with a friend last night I didn't want to risk leaving the chargers out for the dogs to chew up (again), so I unplugged them and put them away, right after PackC finished charging and I got the data at the start of this post. So the bike sat for about...26 hours off the charger. Normally the voltage is at 70V, it was 69.3V when I turned it on.
20m 54s trip time
4.853miles
24.8mph max
13.9mph avg
33.7Wh/mile (overall; first half was 39.2)
2.963Ah
161.8Wh
55.37Amax
69.3Vstart
63Vrest
43.2Vmin
ON the way home, there was quite a bit of wind, but the Wh/mile was much less; probably for whatever reason causes it to be less on the way home usually.
Fortunately the temperature hadn't dropped far enough to start raining until about an hour and a half ago, long after I was home. Unfortunately, I forgot about the clothes I had on the line drying all day, so now they're even wetter than when I started. At least I didn't have to ride in it, iwth high winds *and* cold rain.
Charging data tomorrow.
12.41Vstart
14.35Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
1.64Ap
23.7Wp
65.9Wh
4.753Ah
Then the ride today, for my 3-hour worknight. On the way there it was pretty windy, naturally from almost directly north most of my way there, against my direction of travel. My Wh/mile was 39.2, for the trip there, all other conditions the same as usual.
Actually, not quite--I had the rightside cargo pod mounted and I normally don't; I had to pickup another bag of dog food today as the dogs only have about 4 days left of it or so. Took several months to use up the last batch of clearanced stuff, so that's pretty good. This time we don't have anything like that, and havent' since last time, so I gotta just go for the cheap stuff (which is even on sale for another couple bucks off). I'll have to try for a trailer full of it later in the week when I have a day off I can spend getting it and going home with it, or maybe take the trailer to work on my morning shift so I can take the food home in it in the afternoon. Figure that out later.
Anyhow, since I had gone out with a friend last night I didn't want to risk leaving the chargers out for the dogs to chew up (again), so I unplugged them and put them away, right after PackC finished charging and I got the data at the start of this post. So the bike sat for about...26 hours off the charger. Normally the voltage is at 70V, it was 69.3V when I turned it on.
20m 54s trip time
4.853miles
24.8mph max
13.9mph avg
33.7Wh/mile (overall; first half was 39.2)
2.963Ah
161.8Wh
55.37Amax
69.3Vstart
63Vrest
43.2Vmin
ON the way home, there was quite a bit of wind, but the Wh/mile was much less; probably for whatever reason causes it to be less on the way home usually.
Fortunately the temperature hadn't dropped far enough to start raining until about an hour and a half ago, long after I was home. Unfortunately, I forgot about the clothes I had on the line drying all day, so now they're even wetter than when I started.
At least I didn't have to ride in it, iwth high winds *and* cold rain. Charging data tomorrow.
I wouldn't mind dividing my *extra* weight like that; I could do with a bit of loss around the middle. Just not relishing the method of removal. :lol:
But I think it would be more like one of them would eat one of the others.
More practically, I could feed some significant fraction less for each at each meal, but they would be unhappy, waiting for the rest of it, then grumbly and stressed, which over several days would increase the chances of somebody not getting along with somebody else. I'd rather avoid that.
More on topic is the charging data from last night (left on trickle charge all night until just now):
PackA (TWM2):
25.34Vstart
28.39Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.9Wp
161.8Wh
5.739Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.33Vstart
28.55Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
158.5Wh
5.613Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.4Vstart
13.85Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.61Ap
23.9Wp
61.6Wh
4.435Ah
I've really got to get the Sorenson setup and charge PackC on it...just time doesn't seem to work out right.
Just not relishing the method of removal. :lol:But I think it would be more like one of them would eat one of the others.
More practically, I could feed some significant fraction less for each at each meal, but they would be unhappy, waiting for the rest of it, then grumbly and stressed, which over several days would increase the chances of somebody not getting along with somebody else. I'd rather avoid that.
More on topic is the charging data from last night (left on trickle charge all night until just now):
PackA (TWM2):
25.34Vstart
28.39Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.9Wp
161.8Wh
5.739Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.33Vstart
28.55Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
158.5Wh
5.613Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.4Vstart
13.85Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.61Ap
23.9Wp
61.6Wh
4.435Ah
I've really got to get the Sorenson setup and charge PackC on it...just time doesn't seem to work out right.
I forgot to note in the last trip post that while riding in the wind it took between 600-700W to stay at 20MPH, and 350-400W at 10MPH. It is more like 400-500W normally, AFAICR. Today there was less wind on the way to work, but it still took 500-600W at 20MPH.
I don't know what speed the wind itself was, but last trip when I turned so that I was going the same direction as the wind, it felt like there was a lot of wind from behind me even at 20MPH, and none in my face, so it was probably more than 25-30MPH at times. Not sure, though. Today in similar places where it was behind me, I could feel the wind in my face sometimes, others not.
Today's ride data, typical work commute, using the new route change home I started with about a week ago, I think it was.
Used to always head out the almost-rear exit of the parking lot, then north a car length or two on 28th Dr, west on Sahuaro to 31st ave, south on 31st ave, west on Peoria while crossing all three lanes to the left turn into the medical center lot (because you can't go straight across Peoria on 31st either way anymore), and thru the lot to Cochise Dr, back east to 31st Ave and south from there.
But now I go south out the almost-front exit of the lot from work, onto 28th Dr and then west on Peoria across it's three lanes, to turn left onto 31st Ave and south from there. It's shorter and faster, and actually puts me at less risk of traffic incidents as there are many less times I am dealing with cross-traffic than the other path, and only two (at most, sometimes none if I hit the lights right) stops I have to startup from. On the other one, I have to stop at nearly every turn. That can be 7 or 8 stops and starts!
So in theory I should be using less power, as the starts tend to use a LOT, but it probably averages out to about the same, since my average speed is a lot higher, even though the distance is less.
Now for the data:
20m 12s trip time
4.851miles
22.4mph max
14.4mph avg
30.6Wh/mile
2.635Ah
148.23Wh
51.96Amax
70.3Vstart
63.6Vrest
43.2Vmin
I don't know what speed the wind itself was, but last trip when I turned so that I was going the same direction as the wind, it felt like there was a lot of wind from behind me even at 20MPH, and none in my face, so it was probably more than 25-30MPH at times. Not sure, though. Today in similar places where it was behind me, I could feel the wind in my face sometimes, others not.
Today's ride data, typical work commute, using the new route change home I started with about a week ago, I think it was.
Used to always head out the almost-rear exit of the parking lot, then north a car length or two on 28th Dr, west on Sahuaro to 31st ave, south on 31st ave, west on Peoria while crossing all three lanes to the left turn into the medical center lot (because you can't go straight across Peoria on 31st either way anymore), and thru the lot to Cochise Dr, back east to 31st Ave and south from there.
But now I go south out the almost-front exit of the lot from work, onto 28th Dr and then west on Peoria across it's three lanes, to turn left onto 31st Ave and south from there. It's shorter and faster, and actually puts me at less risk of traffic incidents as there are many less times I am dealing with cross-traffic than the other path, and only two (at most, sometimes none if I hit the lights right) stops I have to startup from. On the other one, I have to stop at nearly every turn. That can be 7 or 8 stops and starts!
So in theory I should be using less power, as the starts tend to use a LOT, but it probably averages out to about the same, since my average speed is a lot higher, even though the distance is less.
Now for the data:
20m 12s trip time
4.851miles
22.4mph max
14.4mph avg
30.6Wh/mile
2.635Ah
148.23Wh
51.96Amax
70.3Vstart
63.6Vrest
43.2Vmin
Slight detour on one side street due to traffic, but otherwise same as yesterday, less wind. Yet much lower wh/mile, of only 26.9. I guess the wind really does use up a lot more power to overcome.
20m 27s trip time
4.997miles
23.4mph max
14.6mph avg
26.9Wh/mile
2.384Ah
134.2Wh
56.08Amax
70.1Vstart
64.7Vrest
43.8Vmin
20m 27s trip time
4.997miles
23.4mph max
14.6mph avg
26.9Wh/mile
2.384Ah
134.2Wh
56.08Amax
70.1Vstart
64.7Vrest
43.8Vmin
I had been saving entering the following charge and ride data until the forum was stable again; it's kinda piling up so I'll just put it all in now, and hopefully whatever fixes have to be done to the forum for all the image/attachment issues wont' mess up the posts.
Charge data after previous ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.49Vstart
28.44Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.2Wp
134.2Wh
4.692Ah
PackB (TWM1):
26.01Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.3Wp
131.3Wh
4.583Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.73Vstart
13.78Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.65Ap
24.2Wp
62.1Wh
4.361Ah
Next day's work commute (3-1-11):
18m 23s trip time
4.513miles
21.6mph max
14.7mph avg
28.9Wh/mile
2.300Ah
128.63Wh
53.62Amax
70.1Vstart
63.4Vrest
43.8Vmin
The charge after that ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.56Vstart
28.34Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
89.3Wp
139.4Wh
4.910Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.57Vstart
28.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
133.4Wh
4.768Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that dogs must've bumped the connection, as it did not come anywhere near fully charging. Based on the next time's charging data, I suspect they bumped it more than once, actually resetting the WU1 at some point, as well as disconnecting the charger from the WU1 completely, because it didn't take what I expected to be double the Ah to refill the pack.
12.51Vstart
12.73Vfinish
1.62Ap
21.1Wp
4.4Wh
0.348Ah
I didn't have time to finish it's charging, so it was ridden in that state for a deeper discharge than the other packs, reflected in the next charging data.
Next ride (3-2-11), you can see the lower starting pack voltage because of the failure to charge PackC.
20m 39s trip time
4.841miles
21.5mph max
14.0mph avg
28.2Wh/mile
2.431Ah
----Wh (I guess I didn't write this down)
53.59Amax
69.1Vstart
63.0Vrest
43.5Vmin
Charging data after that ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.63Vstart
28.2Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.7Wp
132Wh
4.657Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.63Vstart
28.39Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
126.6Wh
4.459Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.03Vstart
13.93Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.62Ap
24Wp
81.9Wh
6.030Ah
So it only took about 50% more to recharge it than usual, rather than 100% more (twice as much), meaning it did get more than 4.4Wh/0.3xxAh the previous time.
Next ride on 3-3-11 was the usual work commute, but I had to stop for stuff at Fry's on the way home, so it is longer. In addition to a bad day at work, I had such a bad day after getting home that I forgot to recharge at all, and today I did a round trip to a few thrift stores and such before coming back home to begin the recharge.
The first set of data is just the work commute and store trip on 3-3-11, the second set is both that and today's ride (because I forgot to reset the CA).
36m 40s trip time
6.133miles
21.6mph max
11.9mph avg (much lower than usual due to having to ride slowly due to too much pain to concentrate well enough for higher speeds)
24.6Wh/mile
2.627Ah
150.39Wh
52.39Amax
70.1Vstart
63Vrest
44Vmin
Combined trips:
1h 7m 8s trip time
13.98miles
22.6mph max
12.5mph avg
25Wh/mile
6.47Ah
353.45Wh
58.25max
70.1Vstart
60.5Vrest
41.6Vmin
Now I'm recharging as normal, except that PackC is now being charged by a different Tenergy charger I forgot I had, which I found while looking for my electronic tire air gauge (which I still didnt' find). This charger will go to 3A, and appears to behave differently from the other one.
View attachment 2
The blue charger, which I've been using up to now, only goes to 1.8A nominally, and I never see much more than 1.6A peak. Average is much lower because it shuts off almost 50% of the time, every couple of seconds or so, presumably so it can check the pack's voltage after letting it settle.
The black charger, which IanMcnally sent me along with the blue one, AFAICR, but which I hadn't used till now, can do 1, 2, or 3A, and has a different behavior.
At first, it only puts out about 30mA, at just a teensy bit above pack starting voltage. After a few seconds, it begins shutting off for less than half a second and then turning back on at a higher current and voltage, at about 500mA. This happens again and it ramps very quickly up to about 1A, then after another minute or so it kicks up to the full 3A. Like the blue one, it also shuts off periodically to check the pack voltage, but it only does it for less than half a second, and it does it only every minute or so during the few minutes I stayed to watch it before typing this up.
View attachment 1
Charge data after previous ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.49Vstart
28.44Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.2Wp
134.2Wh
4.692Ah
PackB (TWM1):
26.01Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.3Wp
131.3Wh
4.583Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.73Vstart
13.78Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.65Ap
24.2Wp
62.1Wh
4.361Ah
Next day's work commute (3-1-11):
18m 23s trip time
4.513miles
21.6mph max
14.7mph avg
28.9Wh/mile
2.300Ah
128.63Wh
53.62Amax
70.1Vstart
63.4Vrest
43.8Vmin
The charge after that ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.56Vstart
28.34Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
89.3Wp
139.4Wh
4.910Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.57Vstart
28.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
133.4Wh
4.768Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that dogs must've bumped the connection, as it did not come anywhere near fully charging. Based on the next time's charging data, I suspect they bumped it more than once, actually resetting the WU1 at some point, as well as disconnecting the charger from the WU1 completely, because it didn't take what I expected to be double the Ah to refill the pack.
12.51Vstart
12.73Vfinish
1.62Ap
21.1Wp
4.4Wh
0.348Ah
I didn't have time to finish it's charging, so it was ridden in that state for a deeper discharge than the other packs, reflected in the next charging data.
Next ride (3-2-11), you can see the lower starting pack voltage because of the failure to charge PackC.
20m 39s trip time
4.841miles
21.5mph max
14.0mph avg
28.2Wh/mile
2.431Ah
----Wh (I guess I didn't write this down)
53.59Amax
69.1Vstart
63.0Vrest
43.5Vmin
Charging data after that ride:
PackA (TWM2):
25.63Vstart
28.2Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.7Wp
132Wh
4.657Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.63Vstart
28.39Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
126.6Wh
4.459Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.03Vstart
13.93Vfinish (W/charger just disconnected)
1.62Ap
24Wp
81.9Wh
6.030Ah
So it only took about 50% more to recharge it than usual, rather than 100% more (twice as much), meaning it did get more than 4.4Wh/0.3xxAh the previous time.
Next ride on 3-3-11 was the usual work commute, but I had to stop for stuff at Fry's on the way home, so it is longer. In addition to a bad day at work, I had such a bad day after getting home that I forgot to recharge at all, and today I did a round trip to a few thrift stores and such before coming back home to begin the recharge.
The first set of data is just the work commute and store trip on 3-3-11, the second set is both that and today's ride (because I forgot to reset the CA).
36m 40s trip time
6.133miles
21.6mph max
11.9mph avg (much lower than usual due to having to ride slowly due to too much pain to concentrate well enough for higher speeds)
24.6Wh/mile
2.627Ah
150.39Wh
52.39Amax
70.1Vstart
63Vrest
44Vmin
Combined trips:
1h 7m 8s trip time
13.98miles
22.6mph max
12.5mph avg
25Wh/mile
6.47Ah
353.45Wh
58.25max
70.1Vstart
60.5Vrest
41.6Vmin
Now I'm recharging as normal, except that PackC is now being charged by a different Tenergy charger I forgot I had, which I found while looking for my electronic tire air gauge (which I still didnt' find). This charger will go to 3A, and appears to behave differently from the other one.
View attachment 2
The blue charger, which I've been using up to now, only goes to 1.8A nominally, and I never see much more than 1.6A peak. Average is much lower because it shuts off almost 50% of the time, every couple of seconds or so, presumably so it can check the pack's voltage after letting it settle.
The black charger, which IanMcnally sent me along with the blue one, AFAICR, but which I hadn't used till now, can do 1, 2, or 3A, and has a different behavior.
At first, it only puts out about 30mA, at just a teensy bit above pack starting voltage. After a few seconds, it begins shutting off for less than half a second and then turning back on at a higher current and voltage, at about 500mA. This happens again and it ramps very quickly up to about 1A, then after another minute or so it kicks up to the full 3A. Like the blue one, it also shuts off periodically to check the pack voltage, but it only does it for less than half a second, and it does it only every minute or so during the few minutes I stayed to watch it before typing this up.
View attachment 1
Charging is nearly done, but jeebus that black charger gets HOT; the heatsinks on the inside are so hot that I cannot even touch them without burning myself!
And that's with the cover as you see it in the first pic, with about 1/4" of space between the top and bottom halves, and the screws that would normally hold the halves together left about 3/4" out the bottom to hold it off the carpet and leave an air gap. It has no internal fan, so for this first test I just had it sitting next to the other chargers.
I have moved it now to behind the other two, that do have fans, so that their exhaust air (hot though it may be) will at least push air across and thru this charger so it doesnt' cook as badly.
I'll look into a fan for it soon. Perhaps two old CPU fans mounted into the top of the case to blow down onto the heatsinks inside; since it's a 12V charger they should run directly off of it, even if the output goes past the 14.3V it's at right now, up to 15V they likely will continue to work (and I have a lot of the fans). Plus that means that as it gets hotter due to being at higher power levels from higher voltage, the fans will move more air.
This charger does indeed balance the cells, too; they're at that point now, and the outer cells of PackC are about as hot as the ones in PackA and PackB, which are also being charged at the same current rate. Hopefully this balancing will help resolve the extreme voltage sag these cells have under load, but if not, at least I'll know it really is just bad cells rather than having to take the pack off teh bike and do this with the Sorenson, manually monitoring pack temperature the whole time.
I'd guess another 10-20 minutes left to charge, if that, for PackA and B. Then we'll see if PackC finishes at the same time, earlier, or later, and I'll also see if the black charger does a trickle current after charge that helps make up for self-discharge.
OH OH oH! I can't believe I forgot this: 
During the ride around to the thrift stores today, the hose clamp that holds the front edge of the seat frame to the bike frame snapped just as I was making a left turn (on an otherwise empty set of streets, fortunately), allowing the whole seat to pivot back another 20-something degrees or so.
Pardon the picture quality; its taken with the camera on the old celphone I use as a camera/pda/etc when I'm out and about; I don't actually ahve cel service though).
It didn't actually move back with me on it, because of how I was sitting, but if I had been pedalling it would have pushed it back hard, and that wouldn't have been any fun at all.
I thought I got a pic of the clamp itself but it was corrupt on the card, and unreadable. It snapped right at one of the worm-screw engagement cuts, naturally, where it only has a very narrow band on either edge that's continuous steel. So even though it's about 1/2" wide, there's less than 1/4" of actual clamp there.
It's a good stainless steel clamp, but it's also the original one I used when I first put this seat on there, so it's been probably more than 1500 miles of strain, vibration, wiggling, twisting, and finally it gave way, probalby from the side forces of me tilting a bit in the seat during the leaning turn. It's quite deformed to the shape around the perpendicularly-crossed tubes, too, and took some twisting to be able to put it on the parallel tubes on teh seat back.
I somehow didn't have a spare clamp with me (I thought I always did, but not this time!), so I swapped an overly long one used on the seat back that holds the upper part onto it (which doesn't get stressed) into the place where the broken one had been. MOved the remainder of the broken one (two of them screwed into each other serially to make a longer one, actually) to the seat back in it's place.
It's going to distort the new one over time and I'll have to keep ensuring it's tight. I also really should put another one on it as an X shape, in case this should happen again (though probably it wont' for at least the same amount of time). What I really need to do is make a proper seat mount clamp for it, but I have already been putting that off for almost two years, so why change now? :lol:
Anyhow, that's two could-have-been-disastrous failures this year so far: this, and the steering pivot tab breakage. Both happened at times and places that resulted in no problems or danger, but both could have really been a problem in traffic.
Wish I was better at fabricating bits and pieces than I am (and had more time to do it these days), so I could *finish* the things I start as experiments as safer actual rideable bikes, instead of just contraptions. :lol:
And that's with the cover as you see it in the first pic, with about 1/4" of space between the top and bottom halves, and the screws that would normally hold the halves together left about 3/4" out the bottom to hold it off the carpet and leave an air gap. It has no internal fan, so for this first test I just had it sitting next to the other chargers.
I have moved it now to behind the other two, that do have fans, so that their exhaust air (hot though it may be) will at least push air across and thru this charger so it doesnt' cook as badly.
I'll look into a fan for it soon. Perhaps two old CPU fans mounted into the top of the case to blow down onto the heatsinks inside; since it's a 12V charger they should run directly off of it, even if the output goes past the 14.3V it's at right now, up to 15V they likely will continue to work (and I have a lot of the fans). Plus that means that as it gets hotter due to being at higher power levels from higher voltage, the fans will move more air.
This charger does indeed balance the cells, too; they're at that point now, and the outer cells of PackC are about as hot as the ones in PackA and PackB, which are also being charged at the same current rate. Hopefully this balancing will help resolve the extreme voltage sag these cells have under load, but if not, at least I'll know it really is just bad cells rather than having to take the pack off teh bike and do this with the Sorenson, manually monitoring pack temperature the whole time.
I'd guess another 10-20 minutes left to charge, if that, for PackA and B. Then we'll see if PackC finishes at the same time, earlier, or later, and I'll also see if the black charger does a trickle current after charge that helps make up for self-discharge.
OH OH oH! I can't believe I forgot this:
During the ride around to the thrift stores today, the hose clamp that holds the front edge of the seat frame to the bike frame snapped just as I was making a left turn (on an otherwise empty set of streets, fortunately), allowing the whole seat to pivot back another 20-something degrees or so.
Pardon the picture quality; its taken with the camera on the old celphone I use as a camera/pda/etc when I'm out and about; I don't actually ahve cel service though).
It didn't actually move back with me on it, because of how I was sitting, but if I had been pedalling it would have pushed it back hard, and that wouldn't have been any fun at all.
I thought I got a pic of the clamp itself but it was corrupt on the card, and unreadable.
It snapped right at one of the worm-screw engagement cuts, naturally, where it only has a very narrow band on either edge that's continuous steel. So even though it's about 1/2" wide, there's less than 1/4" of actual clamp there. It's a good stainless steel clamp, but it's also the original one I used when I first put this seat on there, so it's been probably more than 1500 miles of strain, vibration, wiggling, twisting, and finally it gave way, probalby from the side forces of me tilting a bit in the seat during the leaning turn. It's quite deformed to the shape around the perpendicularly-crossed tubes, too, and took some twisting to be able to put it on the parallel tubes on teh seat back.
I somehow didn't have a spare clamp with me (I thought I always did, but not this time!), so I swapped an overly long one used on the seat back that holds the upper part onto it (which doesn't get stressed) into the place where the broken one had been. MOved the remainder of the broken one (two of them screwed into each other serially to make a longer one, actually) to the seat back in it's place.
It's going to distort the new one over time and I'll have to keep ensuring it's tight. I also really should put another one on it as an X shape, in case this should happen again (though probably it wont' for at least the same amount of time). What I really need to do is make a proper seat mount clamp for it, but I have already been putting that off for almost two years, so why change now? :lol:
Anyhow, that's two could-have-been-disastrous failures this year so far: this, and the steering pivot tab breakage. Both happened at times and places that resulted in no problems or danger, but both could have really been a problem in traffic.
Wish I was better at fabricating bits and pieces than I am (and had more time to do it these days), so I could *finish* the things I start as experiments as safer actual rideable bikes, instead of just contraptions. :lol:
karma
10 kW
hay i have 4 Tupperware containers full of parts you could use. send me a list of what you need if i have em there free.
only thing not free is the shippin :wink:
never bothered to ask. did you get the controller? is it working?
only thing not free is the shippin :wink:
never bothered to ask. did you get the controller? is it working?
I really appreciate it! But...I'm not sure exactly what I need, or rather, the list of what I "need" is so long I couldn't really type it up. :lol: It's typically easier for me to figure out how to use something else for what I want than it is to figure out what the *right* thing to use for it is, and name it.karma said:
Still, I'll see if I can figure out a list.
More than a few things I need for this or other bikes are probably going to have to be custom-made parts, and I'll just have to get down to it and actually make them.
Didn't I post about that? I thought I did, but I might've forgotten. Can't find the post now, or a PM for it.
Anyway, I got teh controller and the magnets, although I haven't had much chance to do anything with either yet. I plan to test the controller on CB2 with the 9C, to use either as primary or as a spare. Although if I can't fix the startup/shutdown issue with it I'll have to actually use it as main on a different bike (one I can actually pedal to start it going, which I really can't do with CB2 very well anymore). As a spare "get me home" it would still work on CB2, even with the problem, in most cases, as it would be better than not having one at all.
******************************
Charging finished, and the black Tenergy charger doesnt' stay on, either, though it does seem to periodically (every few minutes) pulse a voltage ping to the battery, so short I wasnt' even sure I really saw it the first time, and waited, then saw it twice more in about ten minutes, about the same interval between the first semi-imaginary one and each of the other two.
Temporarily hooking the little CPU fan to the output (while still connected to the battery and with the charger still on) does not re-engage the charger, even when one of those pulses comes along.
So if I put a fan on the charger, it's going to drain down the battery after charge, unless I put it pre-diode on the output of the charger, if it has one (haven't looked yet). I suspect it does not, as it appears to actually be checking the pack voltage during the times it shuts off charging momentarily, and a diode would prevent it doing that.
It's 150ma for the fan at 12V, haven't measured it at the 13-14V the pack will be at after charge, but lets say that I started charging right after I got off work at oh, 10pm. Takes maybe an hour and a half to charge. Charger sits, fan running on PackC, until I get up the next day, potentially up to 12 hours later or more, depending on how bad off things were the day before and that night. Call it 12 x 150ma, or about 1.8Ah used up by the fan.
Perhaps the charger would kick back on after it goes down sufficiently, perhaps not; I'd have to test that experimentally (probably will do that tonight). If it does, then I dont' really have to worry about it, as the fan will not eat up nearly as much capacity that way.
Alternately, if I can find any of the thermistor-controlled fans, I can put that on the charger heatsink so when it cools down after charging the fan shuts off. Much lower power usage that way, probably acceptably so. After all, the WU1 is eating up power off the pack, too, the same way. Not sure how much; I think I checked that or figured it out once, but have forgotten now.
Again, alternately, I could just stick a 12V wallwart on the charger power strip, and run the fan off of that.
I could also use that to power the WU, so it isn't draining the pack (as much) to power itself after charger shutdown. Charging data:
PackA (TWM2):
24.45Vstart
27.94Vfinish (w/charger still trickling)
2.93Ap
87.4Wp
244.1Wh
8.838Ah
PackB (TWM1):
24.53Vstart
27.94Vfinish (w/charger still trickling)
2.98Ap
88.9Wp
232.7Wh
8.407Ah
PackC (WU1):
11.92Vstart
13.95Vfinish (W/charger still connected but in it's shutdown mode)
3.01Ap
44.5Wp
133Wh
9.215Ah
Note that after I put the fan on the pack and let it run a minute or two, it dropped to 13.83V after taking the fan off.
Now I'm off to put the fan back on there and see if the charger kicks back on after a while.
And the answer is no, the charger doesn't kick back on, even after the fan pulls the pack down to 12.3V, which is as far as I let it go before restarting it (about 15 hours, I think).
The only way the charger will kick back on is if it is disconnected and reconnected to either AC power or the pack. Maybe if it falls really really low it would, but I didn't wait that long yet. Maybe if I have time for such a test later, we'll see.
So basically I have to ensure charging is done before I can go to bed, or else simply know that PackC won't have a full charge on it the next day. Still, it's better than the blue charger because A) it's higher current and does the balancing, too, and B) it's about twice as fast because of the higher current.
I have had a lot of trouble finding tools and parts lately, because of the clutter and disorganization my place has fallen into, so I spent most of today cleaning and sorting the front room (where I do most of the bike work and park DGA and CB2 and the Kennel Trailer; it's where most of the pictures are taken these days). I managed to find walls and floor that I might not have seen in 2-3 years now.
I also was brought a replacement mattress; my 30+ year-old "waveless" waterbed finally ruptured too many tubes (all at once, Thursday, soaking me while I napped), and I can't fix them anymore as the plastic is just too old; they'll just leak somewhere else. So some friends brought a lightly-used twin-size spring mattress over, and while it isn't as wide or long as the other, I managed to fill in the extra space with cushions and whatnot for now, so the dogs can still get up here too.
Having constantly fought mildew and mold because of the leaks, and now having a dry bed, I wonder if it will help my health any. I often spend a lot of time in the bed or bedroom, either because I hurt, or am exhausted, or just because I'm doing a lot of work on the computer, so maybe not breathing in the spores and whatnot will make me feel better? I hope so; something has to change.
The only way the charger will kick back on is if it is disconnected and reconnected to either AC power or the pack. Maybe if it falls really really low it would, but I didn't wait that long yet. Maybe if I have time for such a test later, we'll see.
So basically I have to ensure charging is done before I can go to bed, or else simply know that PackC won't have a full charge on it the next day. Still, it's better than the blue charger because A) it's higher current and does the balancing, too, and B) it's about twice as fast because of the higher current.
I have had a lot of trouble finding tools and parts lately, because of the clutter and disorganization my place has fallen into, so I spent most of today cleaning and sorting the front room (where I do most of the bike work and park DGA and CB2 and the Kennel Trailer; it's where most of the pictures are taken these days). I managed to find walls and floor that I might not have seen in 2-3 years now.
I also was brought a replacement mattress; my 30+ year-old "waveless" waterbed finally ruptured too many tubes (all at once, Thursday, soaking me while I napped), and I can't fix them anymore as the plastic is just too old; they'll just leak somewhere else. So some friends brought a lightly-used twin-size spring mattress over, and while it isn't as wide or long as the other, I managed to fill in the extra space with cushions and whatnot for now, so the dogs can still get up here too.
Having constantly fought mildew and mold because of the leaks, and now having a dry bed, I wonder if it will help my health any. I often spend a lot of time in the bed or bedroom, either because I hurt, or am exhausted, or just because I'm doing a lot of work on the computer, so maybe not breathing in the spores and whatnot will make me feel better? I hope so; something has to change.
Recharging PackC after the fan drained it some put back 1.862Ah, to 14.45V, with me checking it every few minutes to catch it as quick as possible after the charge stopped.
Everything sat overnight off the chargers and wattmeters, and just before I headed off for work today I had a starting voltage of only 68.4V (rather than the 70V I usually have if I let it all sit with the chargers trickling on PackA and B, until I am ready to go, and the WU1 still on PackC draining it a bit with the power to run the WU).
I didn't have time to measure each pack before leaving, though, to see which had dropped by how much to total that.
WHen I got home, I checked with the system and lights still on (but not running the motor), and got 25.59V on both PackA and B, and 12.51V on PackC (using a voltmeter). Turning the system off, connecting up the wattmeters, I got 25.72V on PackA and B, and 12.69V on PackC, reading with the wattmeters (and about the same as before, using the voltmeter).
I forgot to note down the CA readings after getting home and unplugging the packs to start charging them, so I'll have to jot that down after the charging is done in an hour or so.
I do recall that the resting voltage just before leaving work was 66V, and resting voltage after reaching home was 64V. So about 2V drop for each leg of the commute, given the 68.4V starting voltage today.
Today I reinstalled the car horn that I'd taken off some time ago and kept forgetting to put back on (leaving me with only a bike bell all that time). I was going to put both horns on, since one is detuned from the other and makes it louder and more noticeable, but I seem to have misplaced the other one. Oh, well, I'd be better off putting the other one on DayGlo Avenger, anyway.
The only issue I have is that for some reason, the bike frame isn't grounded anymore. I know it used to be, as that has always been a problem with certain things I wanted to do. I think when I took the original 24" shock fork off so I could install the 26" 9C wheel for the Undead Race, it removed the main frame ground. The welded-on turn signal brackets were also grounded on the signal cases, so when they are bolted on with those they are then grounded to the whole bike frame.
Now there apparently isnt' a grounded connection anywhere. I ran a ground wire to the horn casing (which is bolted to the frame), so it will still work, as the horn does not have a separate ground, only the horn power input pin. It uses the car body as ground, sensibly enough.
I think that I am going to find my nylon-insulated washers and sleeves for the 1/4"-20 bolt I am using to secure the horn to the frame, and then use that to re-isolate the frame from ground. If I *can* have it electrically unconnected, I'd rather do that.
Everything sat overnight off the chargers and wattmeters, and just before I headed off for work today I had a starting voltage of only 68.4V (rather than the 70V I usually have if I let it all sit with the chargers trickling on PackA and B, until I am ready to go, and the WU1 still on PackC draining it a bit with the power to run the WU).
I didn't have time to measure each pack before leaving, though, to see which had dropped by how much to total that.
WHen I got home, I checked with the system and lights still on (but not running the motor), and got 25.59V on both PackA and B, and 12.51V on PackC (using a voltmeter). Turning the system off, connecting up the wattmeters, I got 25.72V on PackA and B, and 12.69V on PackC, reading with the wattmeters (and about the same as before, using the voltmeter).
I forgot to note down the CA readings after getting home and unplugging the packs to start charging them, so I'll have to jot that down after the charging is done in an hour or so.
I do recall that the resting voltage just before leaving work was 66V, and resting voltage after reaching home was 64V. So about 2V drop for each leg of the commute, given the 68.4V starting voltage today.
Today I reinstalled the car horn that I'd taken off some time ago and kept forgetting to put back on (leaving me with only a bike bell all that time). I was going to put both horns on, since one is detuned from the other and makes it louder and more noticeable, but I seem to have misplaced the other one.
Oh, well, I'd be better off putting the other one on DayGlo Avenger, anyway. The only issue I have is that for some reason, the bike frame isn't grounded anymore. I know it used to be, as that has always been a problem with certain things I wanted to do. I think when I took the original 24" shock fork off so I could install the 26" 9C wheel for the Undead Race, it removed the main frame ground. The welded-on turn signal brackets were also grounded on the signal cases, so when they are bolted on with those they are then grounded to the whole bike frame.
Now there apparently isnt' a grounded connection anywhere. I ran a ground wire to the horn casing (which is bolted to the frame), so it will still work, as the horn does not have a separate ground, only the horn power input pin. It uses the car body as ground, sensibly enough.
I think that I am going to find my nylon-insulated washers and sleeves for the 1/4"-20 bolt I am using to secure the horn to the frame, and then use that to re-isolate the frame from ground. If I *can* have it electrically unconnected, I'd rather do that.
Ride data (work commute):
20m 15s trip time
4.866miles
24.8mph max
14.4mph avg
24.9Wh/mile
2.165Ah
120.98Wh
53.29Amax
68.4Vstart
64Vrest
44.4Vmin
Charge data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.72Vstart
27.93Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.4Wp
127.6Wh
4.496Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.74Vstart
27.95Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.8Wp
122.4Wh
4.130Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that I forgot to go back and check it when it should have finished; I restarted the charger after noting the values at that time. Then I sat there and let it run till green, and noted the values then and disconnected it. Value before slash is slightly rundown after first charge, value after slash is final full charge.
12.62Vstart
13.75Vfinish / 14.37Vfinish
2.84Ap
43.3Wp
59.9Wh
4.167Ah/4.531Ah
According to the CA, the final pack voltage is 69.8V. We'll see what that drops to by work tomorrow, without a trickle charge overnight on A and B.
20m 15s trip time
4.866miles
24.8mph max
14.4mph avg
24.9Wh/mile
2.165Ah
120.98Wh
53.29Amax
68.4Vstart
64Vrest
44.4Vmin
Charge data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.72Vstart
27.93Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.4Wp
127.6Wh
4.496Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.74Vstart
27.95Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.8Wp
122.4Wh
4.130Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that I forgot to go back and check it when it should have finished; I restarted the charger after noting the values at that time. Then I sat there and let it run till green, and noted the values then and disconnected it. Value before slash is slightly rundown after first charge, value after slash is final full charge.
12.62Vstart
13.75Vfinish / 14.37Vfinish
2.84Ap
43.3Wp
59.9Wh
4.167Ah/4.531Ah
According to the CA, the final pack voltage is 69.8V. We'll see what that drops to by work tomorrow, without a trickle charge overnight on A and B.
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