melodious
100 kW
If you value your life, I'd suggest staying away from the inauguration parade. :lol:
A-Lines Abound: First ride after some major changes
- Thread starter MattyCiii
- Start date
MattyCiii
100 kW
Trust me I'll stay well clear
MattyCiii
100 kW
Here's what next...
As a commuter bike, this thing needs mudguards. I decided to try making mud guards with schedule 30 (thin wall) 3" PVC pipe. It still needs work, but I'm starting to get the hang of shaping this stuff.
As a commuter bike, this thing needs mudguards. I decided to try making mud guards with schedule 30 (thin wall) 3" PVC pipe. It still needs work, but I'm starting to get the hang of shaping this stuff.
MattyCiii
100 kW
The next step for this bike... a legitimate triple crown downhill front fork. The Lefty will go on the shelf and await my next build - which will be a folding bike. The monopole fork will be an advantage for a folding bike that simply goes wasted on this bike.
I have a nice green anodized Chris King ISO 20 hub on the way and will be ordering spokes this weekend.
I have a nice green anodized Chris King ISO 20 hub on the way and will be ordering spokes this weekend.
oatnet
1 MW
With fabrication skills like yours, you could probably adapt a light moto fork, which would give you access to motorcycle-grade brakes etc...
-JD
-JD
MattyCiii
100 kW
Thanks for the vote of confidence JD!
I have the Rock Shox Dominion just sitting there on the shelf, and a compatible hub on already on order. But you have an excellent point.
Scooter and motorcycle parts can be more strong and tough, and for less money. How? by being heavier and (unrelated) by having high economy of scale. Case in point - I'm looking at 16 x 2.25 scooter tires for $18, where I would normally run 16" x 2" bicycle tires that cost $35. Apart from price, the scooter tires give better high speed performance & puncture resistance. The penalty is weight - but with e-power, weight does not scare me.
The train has basically left the station on this build - With the rim on order, all I need is to build the wheel (I have spokes on hand) and I'm back on the road. Your idea/suggestion/wisdom is not wasted though, it helps me widen my search for options for the inevitable next build/next upgrade...
I have the Rock Shox Dominion just sitting there on the shelf, and a compatible hub on already on order. But you have an excellent point.
Scooter and motorcycle parts can be more strong and tough, and for less money. How? by being heavier and (unrelated) by having high economy of scale. Case in point - I'm looking at 16 x 2.25 scooter tires for $18, where I would normally run 16" x 2" bicycle tires that cost $35. Apart from price, the scooter tires give better high speed performance & puncture resistance. The penalty is weight - but with e-power, weight does not scare me.
The train has basically left the station on this build - With the rim on order, all I need is to build the wheel (I have spokes on hand) and I'm back on the road. Your idea/suggestion/wisdom is not wasted though, it helps me widen my search for options for the inevitable next build/next upgrade...
mdd0127
100 kW
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2008
- Messages
- 1,084
I have a brand new 2009 model 888 bomber world cup titanium, sprung for a 185lb rider on a 75lb bike that I'd sell for $675 shipped if that would help you out. I've been holding onto it forever, hoping to build something with it but I could really use the cash.
I'm also curious to see if you ever tried the below threshold throttle setup and what you thought if you have.
I'm also curious to see if you ever tried the below threshold throttle setup and what you thought if you have.
MattyCiii
100 kW
I'd love to help out but I already have the fork in the big parts pile down stairs. I have to start building biles with that stuff, or selling it myself, least my girlfriend one day decide to sell it all at a yard sale for $10 a pound.mdd0127 said:
I did indeed. I tried it for a couple of days, then undid it. It's really cold here, icy and dark during the commute, so after I hit a couple of quirks I undid everything except the bottom threshold/low speed cutoff speed of 2mph. When its warmer and days are longer I'll try it again.mdd0127 said:
In retrospect my min problem with the technique may have been unrelated - I came to a hard stop nearing an intersection, and nearing 0mph my brakes were fighting the drive system (and losing). I think now looking back that was an overly slow throttle downramp setting. But it made me uncomfortable enough that I rolled back all new settings. I'm playing in traffic after all.
mdd0127
100 kW
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2008
- Messages
- 1,084
I'm glad you tried it. It's a little strange to kind of feel the throttle trying to over ride the brakes when you're stopped but if the threshold is set just slightly below the resting throttle voltage, and you have it set to current throttle, something I forgot to mention before 
, the output is so low that I can stop the wheel with one finger. If it's set up right, it should only be pulling 35-50ish watts at it's resting throttle setting. It doesn't seem like stopping the hv160 with the throttle slightly applied has any negative affect on the esc. I thought the CA would drop the throttle signal completely once the speed gets below the minimum threshold but it doesn't, not immediately at least. I wish it did. Maybe version 3 does? I have the older ca-lrc beta release and I haven't reflashed it so it still has some quirks. I'll have to hook up a meter to the throttle signal some day and see if the CA is dropping the throttle output or it's a residual ramp down effect from the HV160.
Either way, I really like not having to backspin the electric drive chain while pedaling, even though I have one way bearings at the reduction output for freewheels. I ride in traffic all of the time too, on the highway, and in a retirement town
People look at me like I'm an alien frequently and assume I'm going 5mph. Riding motorcycles for a few years has made me an offensive rider though so I haven't had any incidents.
Really interested to see your new front end setup!
, the output is so low that I can stop the wheel with one finger. If it's set up right, it should only be pulling 35-50ish watts at it's resting throttle setting. It doesn't seem like stopping the hv160 with the throttle slightly applied has any negative affect on the esc. I thought the CA would drop the throttle signal completely once the speed gets below the minimum threshold but it doesn't, not immediately at least. I wish it did. Maybe version 3 does? I have the older ca-lrc beta release and I haven't reflashed it so it still has some quirks. I'll have to hook up a meter to the throttle signal some day and see if the CA is dropping the throttle output or it's a residual ramp down effect from the HV160. Either way, I really like not having to backspin the electric drive chain while pedaling, even though I have one way bearings at the reduction output for freewheels. I ride in traffic all of the time too, on the highway, and in a retirement town
People look at me like I'm an alien frequently and assume I'm going 5mph. Riding motorcycles for a few years has made me an offensive rider though so I haven't had any incidents.Really interested to see your new front end setup!
MattyCiii
100 kW
My ultimate plan is to replace the the NuVinci disc brake modular mount & sprocket carrier with a freewheel (sprag clutch), placing the freewheel where it belongs - concentric to the wheel axle. The design/build thread is here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=41291&hilit=+nuvinci
The first prototype of this concept will be fielded on my folding bike, since I don't use disc brakes on that bike the arrangement will be simpler to implement. If it works out well (function, reliability, durability, cost, etc.) I'll perhaps try to make a second one that's capable of mounting a disc brake too and upgrade this bike.
The first prototype of this concept will be fielded on my folding bike, since I don't use disc brakes on that bike the arrangement will be simpler to implement. If it works out well (function, reliability, durability, cost, etc.) I'll perhaps try to make a second one that's capable of mounting a disc brake too and upgrade this bike.
MattyCiii
100 kW
Pictures to follow.
I got my girlfriend to help me :wink: on my PVC fenders. She heated the pipe as I gave it a strong steady pull <cough>. The PVC bent and stretched around the radius of the tire, and now I have a fender that will encompass about 180 degrees of the wheel. Since PVC springs back a little after bending, I should have a quarter to half inch clearance between the wheel and the fender.
I'm going to rest up a bit (the job is harder than it seems) and have lunch - then do some finish cuts and rustle up some mounting hardware. Hopefully I can get the rear fender installed this afternoon. The front will be a little more troublesome because the Lefty fork - but I'll be replacing that fork with a triple crown fork soon, so in reality I think I'll wait till that upgrade is complete before installing the font fender.
I got my girlfriend to help me :wink: on my PVC fenders. She heated the pipe as I gave it a strong steady pull <cough>. The PVC bent and stretched around the radius of the tire, and now I have a fender that will encompass about 180 degrees of the wheel. Since PVC springs back a little after bending, I should have a quarter to half inch clearance between the wheel and the fender.
I'm going to rest up a bit (the job is harder than it seems) and have lunch - then do some finish cuts and rustle up some mounting hardware. Hopefully I can get the rear fender installed this afternoon. The front will be a little more troublesome because the Lefty fork - but I'll be replacing that fork with a triple crown fork soon, so in reality I think I'll wait till that upgrade is complete before installing the font fender.
MattyCiii
100 kW
Remember this video?
Here's the same path, but camera forward this time. This was actually taken on my other bike, but I'm posting it here 'cus the previous video was here.
[youtube]TbKXeU7iPB0[/youtube]
Here's the same path, but camera forward this time. This was actually taken on my other bike, but I'm posting it here 'cus the previous video was here.
[youtube]TbKXeU7iPB0[/youtube]
MattyCiii
100 kW
Small progress...
MattyCiii
100 kW
While I like doing DIY work, I want this bike to be the trouble free, over built bomb proof commuter bike. So to mount my PVC mud guards, I need mounting hardware. Well, what better place to get fender mounting hardware than on a pair of fenders?
I want and ordered a pair of these http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&p=697960#p697799.
Pro's:
* They're designed from the ground up as fenders
* They're not very expensive
Con's:
* They might not fit
But if they don't fit, I'll use their mounting hardware for the PVC fenders I made
I want and ordered a pair of these http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&p=697960#p697799.
Pro's:
* They're designed from the ground up as fenders
* They're not very expensive
Con's:
* They might not fit
But if they don't fit, I'll use their mounting hardware for the PVC fenders I made
MattyCiii
100 kW
Lighting:
I've been saying awhile that the two things that keep this bike from being the ultimate commuter are lights and mudguards. We've seen my attempts to get adequate mud guards (And failing these efforts, I can always go with these: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&start=30#p698444P). Now for some preview as to the lights.
A friend of mine hooked me up with some pretty badass LEDs. The modules are six across, and want ~18v of current controlled power. I plan to run two modules - one each off the two halves of the battery pack. That's 25v into one module (though this current control LED supply from Meanwell: http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-L/default.htm) and "the other" 25v battery pack into the other module. If I ever have to limp home again on half my pack, I'll at least have half my forward lighting.
OK, enough talk. Let's look at lighting:
Here's a six-pack of the LED's, without the optics
Same lights, illuminating about 10' of basement to the east of the property. No other lights are on, and this not a long exposure picture. This is what it actually looks like.
Here's a module with the optic lenses in place:
Here's that module lighting up the 20' or so to the North West corner of the basement. Note the bright white retro reflective tire sidewalls about center of the frame, and the glint of green of my ALine...
I've been saying awhile that the two things that keep this bike from being the ultimate commuter are lights and mudguards. We've seen my attempts to get adequate mud guards (And failing these efforts, I can always go with these: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&start=30#p698444P). Now for some preview as to the lights.
A friend of mine hooked me up with some pretty badass LEDs. The modules are six across, and want ~18v of current controlled power. I plan to run two modules - one each off the two halves of the battery pack. That's 25v into one module (though this current control LED supply from Meanwell: http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-L/default.htm) and "the other" 25v battery pack into the other module. If I ever have to limp home again on half my pack, I'll at least have half my forward lighting.
OK, enough talk. Let's look at lighting:
Here's a six-pack of the LED's, without the optics
Same lights, illuminating about 10' of basement to the east of the property. No other lights are on, and this not a long exposure picture. This is what it actually looks like.
Here's a module with the optic lenses in place:
Here's that module lighting up the 20' or so to the North West corner of the basement. Note the bright white retro reflective tire sidewalls about center of the frame, and the glint of green of my ALine...
MattyCiii
100 kW
FENDERS:
Based on this recommendation (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&start=30), I decided to try my luck with having custom fenders done by Big O Manufacturing.
To keep things plain and simple - not to mention to have details accessible from any Interned connected device , I'm going to use this post to show Big O the critical dimensions and such for the bike.
Tire Diameter: Front and rear are exactly 27" in diameter.
Tire Width: 3.3" wide at widest point.
The rear wheel:
Critical clearance issues, rear fender: This is probably not an issue at all, but for the sake of completeness:
The motor drive at rest is .345" to the left of the edge of the tire.
At the tire's widest point, the upper chainstay is exactly 4". I suppose this is a useless measure, since the fender would be slightly farther away from the axle at this point. Let me know "how far up" to measure and I'll get that figure.
Also, the upper chainstay is fixed in relation to the axle - the lower one moves slightly. So, I will be mounting the fenders to this part.
Then there's a little over 4" to the lower chainstay. Since I'll be fabricating the mounting hardware I'll decide how close I want to get to the lower chainstay. That said, as the suspension compresses, this distance increases, so I can come pretty close to the lower stay while at rest and not rist the two touching.
A couple more quick shots of the upper and lower chainstay
Based on this recommendation (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47469&start=30), I decided to try my luck with having custom fenders done by Big O Manufacturing.
To keep things plain and simple - not to mention to have details accessible from any Interned connected device
, I'm going to use this post to show Big O the critical dimensions and such for the bike. Tire Diameter: Front and rear are exactly 27" in diameter.
Tire Width: 3.3" wide at widest point.
The rear wheel:
Critical clearance issues, rear fender: This is probably not an issue at all, but for the sake of completeness:
The motor drive at rest is .345" to the left of the edge of the tire.
At the tire's widest point, the upper chainstay is exactly 4". I suppose this is a useless measure, since the fender would be slightly farther away from the axle at this point. Let me know "how far up" to measure and I'll get that figure.
Also, the upper chainstay is fixed in relation to the axle - the lower one moves slightly. So, I will be mounting the fenders to this part.
Then there's a little over 4" to the lower chainstay. Since I'll be fabricating the mounting hardware I'll decide how close I want to get to the lower chainstay. That said, as the suspension compresses, this distance increases, so I can come pretty close to the lower stay while at rest and not rist the two touching.
A couple more quick shots of the upper and lower chainstay
MattyCiii
100 kW
Shameless cross-post, from thread Re: rear lights.... why not use lots of led's in series ?
MattyCiii said:
MattyCiii
100 kW
I've never been satisfied with the front battery mount. The square frame I made out of 80/20 T-slots is strong, but weighs a ton. And while I'm able to tuck my HV-160, shunt and some wiring behind it, it's a mess and has zero weather protection. I decided to replace the frame with an aluminum box enclosure from Hammond. Since this piece bears a somewhat heavy (~20lb) dynamic load, I got a heavy duty enclosure.
Here are some pix of the new upgrade:
Here's the enclosure mounted to the front of the bike. I had minimum height and width requirements in order to have good mount points - those drove the depth of the final product. The shallowest choice is about 3" deep - at least an inch more than I need, but whatever, it works.
Here's a closeup of the box. My HV-160, shunt, and about 5' of extra CAv3 wire are enclosed in that case. I've never had a problem with HV-160 heating - never got one past 100* F, so I'm not concerned about it's lack of air flow. Conversely, this box is water tight and I've sealed all penetrations with grommets.
I hesitated to put a penetration on the top, but went for it. I packed the edge of that grommet with waterproof grease on the inside just for good measure.
Left rear view. Pretty neat. You can see the "torque/PAS" 5 pin JST hanging off the CAv3. I am thinking about desoldering that and removing it, I'll never need it with this bike. One less thing dangling around in the rain and snow.
Took the bike for a test ride, and the new "box" is nice and solid. This brings the bike one step closer to rock solid reliability, not having junk all out there exposed to the elements...
Here are some pix of the new upgrade:
Here's the enclosure mounted to the front of the bike. I had minimum height and width requirements in order to have good mount points - those drove the depth of the final product. The shallowest choice is about 3" deep - at least an inch more than I need, but whatever, it works.
Here's a closeup of the box. My HV-160, shunt, and about 5' of extra CAv3 wire are enclosed in that case. I've never had a problem with HV-160 heating - never got one past 100* F, so I'm not concerned about it's lack of air flow. Conversely, this box is water tight and I've sealed all penetrations with grommets.
I hesitated to put a penetration on the top, but went for it. I packed the edge of that grommet with waterproof grease on the inside just for good measure.
Left rear view. Pretty neat. You can see the "torque/PAS" 5 pin JST hanging off the CAv3. I am thinking about desoldering that and removing it, I'll never need it with this bike. One less thing dangling around in the rain and snow.
Took the bike for a test ride, and the new "box" is nice and solid. This brings the bike one step closer to rock solid reliability, not having junk all out there exposed to the elements...
recumpence
1 GW
How many miles do you have on the bike so far?
I am starting to get emails and phone calls from guys with thousands of miles.
Matt
I am starting to get emails and phone calls from guys with thousands of miles.
Matt
900steve
1 mW
Must be some weight savings too?
MattyCiii
100 kW
THANKS Ratking, appreciate the compliment. In case you don't recall, you helped me (big time) about 10 months ago by explaining how to wire the CAv3 to supply power to the HV-160 (something no longer needed due to the excellent documentation by Teklektik). I just wanted to say thanks one more time.Ratking said:Nice work Matty, really like the bike and custom work
Do you use the bike regularly?
I'm riding this bike for about 1/3 of my commutes - which will grow in the near future. It's just too pretty to leave outsied, even if locked up good - so I don't use it anytime I plan to stop on the way home. And it's too big to bring into stores (something I do ith the other bike), so again if I have a grocery run I take the folding bike. And until I get the front mud guard set up, predictions of rain keep the bike home too.
I'd say I have about 500 miles on this bike so far. I have to start getting disciplined about writing down accumulated miles (and other metrics) when I flas the firmware of the CA...recumpence said:
I easily have 3k miles on the folding bike, powered by a Recumpence V4 drive, and it's been an awesome drive unit!
Probably 2-3 lbs. I'll weigh the old frame tonight & subtract out the specified weight of the Hammond box. All around, it's a win. Moreover, I easily have space in the new enclosure to install the GPS tracker (as a semi-permanent place for it until I can mount it's final housing). That'll give me more comfort when I do lock the bike up outside shops and such for short periods of time...900steve said:
adam333
1 kW
I like the new box, nice and clean.
I would remove useless cables as well.
I would remove useless cables as well.
MattyCiii
100 kW
THANKS Adam.
I took new-in-box CAv3 and did:
1) Removed the Torque/PAS JST connector, left it aside.
2) Rigged it for RC drive (my RC brothahs know what I'm talking about)
3) Wired in an extra long speedometer pickup. Having the pickup on the rear wheel is more elegant than on the front. On the front, 4" of suspension == 4" of wire flex (because the wire basically flexes straight up and down). Having the pickup on the rear wheel, suspension impacts the RPM sensor as degrees not inches, which is much kinder to a pickup wire. Also, I have some magnets on order and plan to have 6 poles per revolution vice the present day 1.
4) I also installed the GPS tracker on the bike. I'll still keep it in arms reach at all times, locked when unsure etc - but a multi-faceted defense is best, so the GPS tracker is on at all times. It has about 7 days run time between charges. 8)
I took new-in-box CAv3 and did:
1) Removed the Torque/PAS JST connector, left it aside.
2) Rigged it for RC drive (my RC brothahs know what I'm talking about)
3) Wired in an extra long speedometer pickup. Having the pickup on the rear wheel is more elegant than on the front. On the front, 4" of suspension == 4" of wire flex (because the wire basically flexes straight up and down). Having the pickup on the rear wheel, suspension impacts the RPM sensor as degrees not inches, which is much kinder to a pickup wire. Also, I have some magnets on order and plan to have 6 poles per revolution vice the present day 1.
4) I also installed the GPS tracker on the bike. I'll still keep it in arms reach at all times, locked when unsure etc - but a multi-faceted defense is best, so the GPS tracker is on at all times. It has about 7 days run time between charges. 8)
Ch00paKabrA
10 kW
Wow! What a great build. I don't understand what the issue was with getting the tires on the rims though. I am also using 21 inch rims (excel, because you can get them used on ebay for around $30 - $50) and street tires. Mine are enduro so maybe the side wall is a little softer. But either way, there is a trick to getting them on (and off for that matter).
Here is the trick, for future reference.
Most people will pick a side and put one bead on and then the tube, and then spoon the other bead onto the tire. With street tires, this is very difficult and you will almost always lose some skin off of your knuckles trying to get the tube in after the wheel is half on.
Do not do this.
Step 1: Put the tube on FIRST.
Step 2: Put the rim with the tube inside the tire. It actually pops in easily - so now you have your rim with tube inside the tire and you have a bead on the outside of both sides of the rim.
Step 3: Spoon one bead onto the tire making sure that you END the spooning at the tire valve.
Step 4: Repeat Step 3 on the other side.
Step 5: Inflate the tire.
I really like your tires so I think I might get some of those and try them out. The enduro tires are only about $50 each though, yours are a lot more expensive but the green rims really look great.
Good Luck and thanks for all the info.
Ch00p
Here is the trick, for future reference.
Most people will pick a side and put one bead on and then the tube, and then spoon the other bead onto the tire. With street tires, this is very difficult and you will almost always lose some skin off of your knuckles trying to get the tube in after the wheel is half on.
Do not do this.
Step 1: Put the tube on FIRST.
Step 2: Put the rim with the tube inside the tire. It actually pops in easily - so now you have your rim with tube inside the tire and you have a bead on the outside of both sides of the rim.
Step 3: Spoon one bead onto the tire making sure that you END the spooning at the tire valve.
Step 4: Repeat Step 3 on the other side.
Step 5: Inflate the tire.
I really like your tires so I think I might get some of those and try them out. The enduro tires are only about $50 each though, yours are a lot more expensive but the green rims really look great.
Good Luck and thanks for all the info.
Ch00p
