AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

[macribs]

Yes I have heard that too - dual motor make no sense.
Yet I am not too sure about that. At least from a theoretical point of view.

Having two motors working in their optimum efficiency range all the time rather then push one motor to the limits several time during a ride should really give more battery range, less heat build up and the ability to climb hills steeper then man can walk.

Are you using both motors in those hill climb videos or running solely mid drive?

What about acceleration, is there any advantages using two motors over one? I am not thinking drag strip style accelerating. Rather
being quick enough out of red lights to beat the traffic without draining serious battery amps. I guess what I am thinking of is to use 1 motor for initial take off, and when bikes have momentum engage the hub motor.

 

[John Bozi]

I use them in many ways up the mountain.

1. Just mid drive
2. Just hub
3. or both

The steepest stuff I ever do is always both. Usually pic a gear that you can pull through the whole section and stay with it. There's no changing gears mid way.
If I am going to be going straight up a mountain for 5 minutes or more, I usually let the bafang do it until the points where it can't and then thump on the cool hub power through the section.
Or if the motor is around 70 degrees or less just power through it for a bit of fun for a bit.

choice is yours and thats the fun. Basically I can shave 20 minutes off my long circuits because I don't have to stop to cool or choose the other way I can go much further if patient and crawl up stuff. I usually crawl past most views....

As for the take off from the red lights. You won't beat the torque of the hub motor. You choose to waste power if you want to beat the cars, there is no way around that.

bafang has a slow kick in ramping of power and if you used 0-15kmh with 1500watts you got no chance of being as fast my hub at 5000w. And then you have to change gears. you have to power off and on. you can't just power on through gear changes or youll break chains chew through the sprockets etc. to beat a car you need 0-60kmh right? thats a hub motor with out gear changes. probably about 3 gear changes would be enough - but I dont know a derailleur that would shift so perfectly and reliably. I think you need at least 2kw-3kw to beat the car and bicycle parts will fail there.

the real advantage is you can go slow on the bafang and there are trails which require it around corners or complex parts or steep parts.

On another note:

I am without ebike now as I have pulled apart the bike to start playing around with all the new stuff... Its going to be serious stuff working out a tensioning system for this. If I fail I will go to the 23t. Until then I am waiting for what I just ordered and hope it will work.

$27 au delivered in black to match

I will probably need to change out the bottom part of the moto above with this below.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=49134

EDIT:

Further changing stuff around:

After going for an unpowered ride testing how well the chain stayed on without tension, having the chain fall off a lot of times, I reckon I will have to abandon the front 30t.

I put the stock bafang 44t and the chain line is absolutely perfect! Also pulled out the wipperman 7 speed ebike chain and tried it on, wow this thing is noticably more than just a bicycle chain. With the huge back sprocket and this fat chain and the fat creepy crawler the back end is looking much more like a pit bike.

The spring clip that comes with the chain is so much better than having to destroy pins each time.

still a little nervous of shorteing the chain - as I bent the crap out of the park tool on the 10 speed chain and this connex is expenvisve and tough to replace.

I am looking into adding the chain guards to help with keeping the chain on at back and front next.

Pretty happy now. Sure I am going to be going to the same gearing as I had with 30/32t to 44/48t but the chain line is absolutely perfect like this.

Amazing that the spacer is about a cm and the off set of the stock ring is 1 cm too. so 2 cm really makes a difference. Perfectly centred. Also the stock 44t does not lose any ground clearance as the motor was much lower before and about a touch lower still.

 

[John Bozi]

Ok so I think I have everything I need.

I plan to swap out parts between this which I just bought for $35 au delivered on ebay with the Motor bike part in black which I bought a while ago.
I think it shouldn't be too hard to find something to wrap around the thinner bicycle shaft...

Feel relieved after wanting to give up pulling my hair out trying to find a solution which wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg at a cnc shop.

Today I pulled the bike apart again and hand to file my park tool to get a couple of mm to fit the hd freewheel with the hub axle getting in the way. Got it off and shortened 5 bolts with a grinder which were making it really hard to get a fallen off chain out.

EDIT:

Have also finally pulled the plug on buying the green time controller.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24FET-IRFB4110-s-3000W-48-84V-80Amax-BLDC-motor-controller-EV-brushless-speed-controller-sensor-sensorless/522263950.html



I am not happy with the sensors on my hub. There just isn't 1mm between them and the covers. NOt only that I know I'll probably blow them up like the first time, or the second time.... etc.

The next time they fail, I have a controller on stand by.

24 fet 80A - will mean I need 3p - at lower volts because the power at 50v x 80A =4kw comfortable, will be fine for the controller and motor but at 80x80 = 6400 I think something eventually will fail...

EDIT 2:

If the moto adapter arm doesn't work because of angle's or what not, I will make a custom hanger and just use a single speed derailleur. I got the one above now and it should work.

It would be more subtle and lighter to make this custom... I would need to tap it myself...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Park-Tool-TAP10-Bike-Derailleur-Gear-Hanger-Frame-Tap-10-1mm-Thread-Repair-Chase-/361251678662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item541c4729c6

 

[John Bozi]

[youtube]Cs7FXtw8S3I[/youtube]

Waiting for bits but can see she's slowly getting there. Still wondering about final ground clearance.

Edit:

To do list is growing.

Kepler has given me a diagram of how to get rid of the redundant bafang display
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=60375&p=1026675#p1026675

How to programme the bafang: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&start=25#p884664

Edit 2:

Just bought the derailluer tap... in case I decide to go with another route of attaching single speed derailluers easily.

 

[John Bozi]

First ride in ages felt so good to be back to "normal".

I still felt the gearing is wrong for the super steep stuff I put it through. I will change back to the 30teeth once I get my tensioner as it was bouncing around to much and too low. The power on the hub didnt feel enough up the mountain either. hopefully with the extra 20 amps and 10 more volts with the controller on my waiting for it will be good enough.

[youtube]puDbO52TUg0[/youtube]

EDIT 30/3 just recieved new greentime controller holly molly this thing is fat and heavy! I thought it was going to be longer, not fatter. why don't I read sheet?

Feature:1)Rated voltage: DC48-84V (max working voltage <100V, please attention!!!) 2)Rated power: 2000-3000W
3)Max current: 80A, 24FET IRFB4110's 4)Under-voltage protection: DC41.5+-0.5V
5)Current limited: 80A±0.5A 6)Efficiency: >83%
7)Consumption: <1.5W

Function:

1)Super low noise when start up
2)3-speed (50-100-120%)
3)Under-voltage protection
4)Over-current protection
5)E-ABS brake
6)IPX3 waterproof
7)Cruising (with on/off switch connector, not automatic Cruising)
8)Backward (standard 50% forward speed)
9)Regen braking charge (customized)

Edit 2.1

Leo Liu
06:39 Mar 31,2015
The single purple wire is for battery indicator;
The white wire that can be connected in a loop for? (it is similar to the orange regen loop)
for self-study...
The single yellow brake wire is high level brake, you need to connect it with battery +wire..
If you do not connect 3 speed wires, the speed is 100% default..

Edit 2.2

Leo Liu
08:24 Apr 01,2015
You can choose to only use low level brake wires...
If you connect the controller/motor phase and hall sensor wires color to color, then the motor works perfectly then no need to use self-study wires...
If your motor is sensorless type the sensor of the motor broken you just do not connect the hall sensor wires, then the controller will work with sensorless status....
If you still have any questions, please feel free to contact me, thanks...

Edit 3

Just ordered another power switch because I am going to cut off the bafang display.

 

[drew12345]

Wow, your getting really serious john. That's a cool setup. Hopefully will be back to riding in another week. Weather is starting to turn nice also.

 

[John Bozi]

Was wondering how your health was... cheers serious is good right?

Or maybe unhealthy manic obssessive?

Any how if I could love a guy right now it would be Kepler for telling me the simple info I needed to be able get rid of a ton crap I don't need.

[youtube]nke-KT60Pcg[/youtube]

Next step is to find a way to display the motor temp on something very small from the current probe. I really want my dashboard to be clean as possible. I just love seeing the road more than anything and not having techno geek stuff hijack the ride.

Edit: Installed the moto tensioner so more tension overall, went for a bit of an off road spin around, rode off a foot drop = that single speed derailluer exploded. Looked everywhere for the spring couldn't find it. frock.

Edit 2: Looking at the teeth on the first pulley, they were eaten into by the granny sprocket. So they must have mushed up together. The second hanger was twisted way back so it looks like my very temporary set up was too temporary. I suspected there may be issues with the chain being sandwiched but didn't see any of this until one bigger drop.

Feel devestated again as the moto tensioners alone cannot hold tension. There needs to be a double pulley which means I'll have to order another similar product but this time will not do a temporary mount, but custom tap a chunk of alu where I need it....

man this will be lots of time without riding again.

Edit 3:

Starting to feel like ripping the mid drive off because it is taking way to long to get the bike on the road again. Dam it I am so close yet so far because of a simple thing such as tension.

I have now tried a hundred combinations with moto tensioners (not with ss tensioner) but nothing will hold in place. I may be wasting my time but I have been limited by where I can put the tensioner because of the length of the bolts. I will grind them down soon. btw I like this concept

Edit: 4 Race Face narrow wide chain ring is incompatible with the connex 7e8 chain. DAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! because I wasn't happy with 44tx48t........ frock Im sick of this...

Edit:5 checked on the net, yup race face compatabile with 9 10 11...

 

[drew12345]

Hey John. I had minor surgery for hernia in my stomach. Doc said need to wait 4-6 weeks before doing any exercise or heavy lifting. So will be riding soon. But found out another health issue with my back. I got it from running. I have a couple of bulging disc. Unfortunantly, I may not be able to ride with battery in my backpack anymore. I'll have to see.

I was thinking about getting a NYX frame or used stealth fighter. Or maybe a vector to keep cost down. Not sure.

It seems with ebikes, it's always changing and not cheap.

You always amaze me how may creative solutions you try. Hope you figure out the tensioner.

 

[John Bozi]

Wish you are speedy recovery and well I could have predicted the back pack will not be a long term thing for most people. Even if it wasn't the cause it sure doesn't help carrying a few kg on your back or possibly have some distant effect in exerting your stomach muscles. Raptor 140 could be good to?

I seriously need two good bikes on the go. Part of me says just buy a dam ebike frame. The other says bending a piece of aluminium is not that hard at all. Side covers out of plastic are no big deal either. Now if you are going to serious jumping and stuff then a proper box would be better for battery protection I guess. For me I like the open design, it's easy to work on things and charge up.

Build "progress"
I cut into the rubber centre part of the motorbike pulley, which was raised up in the middle to hold the motorbike chain better but was shifting my chain left or right depending on where it bounced to. This was making the chain feed poorly on the 48t sprocket and then derail and jam.

It would seem without riding it up the mountain really rough that the tensioner is working ok for now. The bracket does rub against the chain, but once under more tension it is straight with no rub. so quite little rub because of my body weight "presag". the final working is 30/48 teeth with a 10 speed chain. Really sad about the 7 speed chain because don't know how long this will last. Anyway she is really slow at a ratio of 1x1.6

It has been raining for ages. I tried going up to my super steep testing ground a few times this week but the mud is thick and impossible. I am really hanging to see if this new ratio can pull through the super steep sections alone. AT the 40-48 0r 1 x 1.2 the bafang couldn't.

Edit 1: trialled on my driveway hitting a bump on full throttle uphillish: no problems

[youtube]DQAMQLQdF-w[/youtube]

Edit 2: Did an off road test ride and the chain stayed in place. I am still worried because I didn't do a full compression anywhere. I am a bit worried that the tension might destroy the chain.... Oh well with time Ill find out.

I just recorded the corner which I failed on in the past.

Actually rode up 3 times. twice only bafang and once it ran out of juice right out the top and the other lost traction. So then I went dual motor and made it through.

On the other sections there is no doubt the gearing difference between 44/48 and 30/48 is huge. I almost made it to the top of my mountain killer and found the hub was struggling to help at 12s....

both motors are matched in their ability at the crawl but it is obvious the mid drive does better at granny for efficency.

[youtube]A2z1tCqbw6g[/youtube]


Edit: I just keep going up testing the chain but nothing is moving? I really need to do some bigger drops...
[youtube]XK6tTT-qyDc[/youtube]

Edit 4:

Did my usual circuit with a bit more stuff on the side but I did it in the opposite direction, which I call the hard way, as the climb up the mountain is much less fogiving. I am trully happy with the tensioner now. I am sure it is perfect for the job...

Now there are lots of things to say about this ride.

One I went up some parts I never have before just with the bafang. A bit of pedalling and a bit of leaning. Was stoked!

However there were a few spots where the bafang either ran out of power or lost traction.

Lastly, at 12s 60a just when the bafang is struggling the hub motor can't help at all, and not only that the voltage sag increases and it almost feels worse to use both at the same time. I'm not sure about the voltage sag yet.

So I'm kind of thinking painfully that 12s is not enough (or currently roughly 44v x 60A = about 2.5kw) and hope that maybe 15s with greentime controller roughly 55v x 80A = 4.5kw.

I love the weight and look and balance and charging and even being able to hold full throttle through rough riding of the bike at 12s3p... But I really think

I need to go up by another couple of kw to power through a few points and out run some traffic.

the 3s turnigy 5.8ah I already have are not listed in au. or int. anymore! dam it...

 

[John Bozi]

Had a great ride on 12s 3p yesterday.

I am really enjoying no chain problems and conquering ridiculous stuff with the bafang alone and using it to give the hub a break.

However I feel toward the end of the charge 12s is too slow.

Another issue is I have a crack across the bafang motor case. I have hit it almost every time I go off road. The worst hit was when I was riding only with it in 26" rear wheel. I think this is a flaw in all mid drive designs. Never have motor strike with a hub. Sure I have lowered my bb but I can't reduce the hub without the smaller wheel.

No chain drops and I flew through the trees. Hope you like the video.

[youtube]15zUGU2txAE[/youtube]

Edit 10/4

so annoying the 3s turnigy I bought to get to 21s is nowhere to seen on the au warehouse anymore. waited for over a week looking for alternatives but for now not ready to go 8s (hard to fit on bike) but maybe in future 3x5s will be the go. first I need to test and push the bafang to its limits.

so I have ordered the same c rating = 25-35 same capacity 5800mAh. zippy (heard they're crappy..vut what to do...)

NOt impressed with paying over $50 for 1 3s! what's happened to the prices?

Also bought a cheap weak charger for the 3s pack. So now have 3 chargers
Turnigy MAX80W 7A

The clyte hub will love the extra volts, running in the 3-4kw range till I put on the new controller.
who knows how long the bafang will last at 1500w peaks....

 

[John Bozi]

[youtube]UCHs0zGHHek[/youtube]

EDIT 14/4 Going for a big ride with oldhaq tomorrow so reconnected my cav3. Mostly because I need to know my hub temperatures as I will be going much faster on average.
I ummed an ahhed about going to back to my old battery configuration since my last 3s battery hasn't arrived and I know I will be way too slow for the speed we usually ride but I really couldn't be bothered. It was a pain setting all the batteries into 3p... With the CA on tonight at 46v top speed on road is about 38kmh. Probably 40 hot off the charge but I really don't care. Going fast than that I always worry about cops. Faster capable that that off road I can't comfortably hold open throttle. It's a pretty good set up to have when you have the granny bafang to get through anything if need be. Makes me kind of question the huge heavy 24 fet controller I bought. I kind of think 40 amps is enough. At my current set up I am forced to use the bafang so makes it more beneficial. but having more power on tap Id use it less except for when overheating the hub.

The current controller at 18 fet doesn't ever get super hot like it did when i just ran the hub by itself.....

Having said this homing on all your eggs in one basket as I have learnt is not the best thing, looking at the bigger picture the bafang could shit itself at anytime. It has a pretty nasty crack on it and I don't know if it is stretching.... I don't know what I would do if it failed now. I could replace it with a cyclone style set up possibly so that I could use a 24t inner sprocket possibly too and up the power for stretches beyond what the bafang controller is limiting me to. It would be pretty then the hub would be giving the mid drive a break more evenly as it would need a cool down more.

Anyway will see how the ride goes tomorrow and how 15s goes. 61v might snap the chain or wear the teeth down harder or kill the controller or something....

Wish I could see how much power the bafang was using. I've thought about hooking up my watt meter but it says 60v max and it would take a lot of cable to get into my field of view.

 

[John Bozi]

My first long ride on 12s3p with CA and it totally screwed with my head. I knew I had 15ah but the readings of AH used was confusing, it didnt seem to match the voltage. I think what happened was the ca only recorded what the controller for the hub used. I thought it calculated it from the voltage set out as being run.... it kept saying about 10ah but I was down to 41v by home pedalling about 10kms with a forgetful turn down a mountain....

Anyway we had a good ride but as I thought I would be underpowered compared to oldhaq and a bit slow. I wasn't surprised running out of power because I was carrying less battery in the form voltage than him.

I like my tshirt cover at least. I really look forward to the 15s.

He also showed what a vented hub can do even in water.

[youtube]bJzsa_9QeWE[/youtube]

Edit 16/4 new charger arrived, dam I can't adjust the end voltage by cell off 4.2... But quickly discovered that I can set it to Lilo settings with a cut off at 4.1 a cell. This is my second type of charger so didn't realise how spoilt I was with the icharger.

the leads suck too, so chopped them soldered them and lucky had one more adapter lying around to the batteries.

15s3p = 45 cells (compare that to my last favourite 21s2p = 42 cells) i should get a slightly better range if riding with others or much better alone... I like walking pace up the mountains just thinking about how lucky I am to ride through the wilderness.

54v-61.5v is my new range at 15s from 4.1-3.6.
1350 - 1530 w for the granny gear @ 25A
3700 - 4300 w for hub @ almost 70A

 

[John Bozi]

Went for the first test ride at 15s3p

I charged up last night to 4.1v a cell, so many older not so healthy cells in there so this morning all started at under 61.5. More like 61v.

Went "here we go" when the bafang wouldn't work. So I rode around the corner with just hub motor and the bafang started to work a bit more and more until it worked full power. I am guessing hvc is some where under 61v.

On flat bitumen top speed is up to 9kmh.

Off road up the steep sections for long period the higher voltage is noticeably advantageous. It is and feels a couple of kmh faster and the motor is reving at a higher pitch. It is noticably not bogging down as much too. It was hardly even warm at the top of a hundred metre steep climb. I only stopped due to traction...

This is an important point that it most probably using a lot less amps in correct rpms. So more power or gearing is now pointless as traction becomes an issue before any bogging down at all..

So yeah I love the bafang at full possible voltage.

The hub feels a million times better too with a top on road speed just under 50kmh, but usually around 45kmh. I am not sure about how all this is working efficiency wise. I have feeling higher voltages were running much better....

Anyway was a great morning ride before work. I really would like to solder up my watt meter inline with the bafang to get some real idea of what kinds of power it is pulling. NOt keep it on all the time, but just for a while I am in this testing stage.

Only thing I don't like is the added spaghetti wiring. the pedal cadence is also worse but is ok when I really need it when things get steep. I don't want to custom everything yet because I don't think this battery set will be around for that long before I settle on a tidier solution.

 

[oldhaq]

Good to hear you're happy with that setup, from what i saw the other day you've hit a good balance. Now onto the next build?

... I like walking pace up the mountains just thinking about how lucky I am to ride through the wilderness.

I agree, but interspersed with lots of insane power spurts, wheel spinning hill climbs, drifting, dirt and stones flying out everywhere. That also puts a smile on my dial )

 

[John Bozi]

I agree, but interspersed with lots of insane power spurts, wheel spinning hill climbs, drifting, dirt and stones flying out everywhere. That also puts a smile on my dial )

No doubt there is more than going slow up hills. 8)

Rob the extra 3s3p got me 30 km on my first test run @ 15s, same distance as our ride last week. Might not need to pedal 5 km next time

anyway a bit of spaghetti
[youtube]ce86GuYStTU[/youtube]


As for another build I am thinking motorcycle rear tyre with the biggest knobs possible. Because it would seem our major fail factor now is not heat but traction.
Measuring: I think I can take 3" tyre if smaller diameter. the current creeply crawler is 2.5" or measures a bit over that at 2.6". The height is 60mm bit worn down..
The rim is 1.56"39.76mm on the rim it says 381x32

The standard moto 16" 90mm/100% will not fit the bike. This 60/100 will fit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kenda-Nobby-60-100-16-Tyre-Motorbike-Offroad-Bike-Trail-MX-Dirtbike-/321608046436?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 but would be thinner than my current tyre. 2.3"
Its hard to measure exactly with the hub in the way but I am pretty sure I need a 16" moto = 406-millimeters (rounded)

EDit added yesterdays ride
[youtube]sIPavVv1VEI[/youtube]

 

[John Bozi]

Had trouble using windows 8.1 lap top to program my bafang, but eventually got it working....

Sent this email to "emax"

I got it working on vista on my old desktop unfortunately had to push my heavy bike upstairs into the house lounge room to work, which means I won't be doing it as often as I would have liked. Doesnt suit tinkering to get stuff perfect, so if you find a driver solution in future please let me know.

Also note for others:

Specify exact order of connections. My computer shut down a couple of times.

It must be

1. connect usb side
2. connect green plug side
3. connect battery power
4. short brown and orange (as I mentioned mine run outside of the plug.)

Basically I wanted to just turn off PAS completely so if you know how to do this let me know. As it runs now it still works but it is very hard to make work, ie I have to pedal like crazy fast to make it kick in and it barely works then anyhow. so it will not surprise me accidentally and keep going. So Im happy how it runs now till next time I could be bothered.

Note about your 20 amp warranty limit. I suspected I was running it at less then I thought. Have upped to 25a, have you had any people ask for burnt controllers? Under what conditions? I run mine @ 30t front x 48t SS and that is about a third of each ride. Most of that it is revving very high with only a few very very very steep bits which tend to be under a minute. After which I rest it using just my hub again. Anyways we will see today I am going out of a serious long test ride.... you sell controllers so might be good for your business for me to be a lab rat

would be nice to get a temperature probe and a small display to go with the motor. You might want to source them out as I would buy one. Anyway I will be hand testing the temps as I usually do on mountain passes.

cheers.

 

[beast775]

Really enjoy your videos ,im going to order a soko chain tensioner it looks very adaptable,thanks for sharing that.

 

[Sean9002]

if that rim fits a creepy crawler from Maxxis (19.5 inch) you cant pop a moto tire on that rim. it just wont seat well.
they aren't a true BMX size as they are a trials tire.
cycling deal had a few wheelsets in BMX sizes with wide rims. Ive fited a few moto tires to them. the only problem is finding a non motocross tire that fits. I have a shinko trials tire on one at t he moment. not sure of the OD.

EDIT~
http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/bmx-bike-wheels-wheelset-wide-rim/ZJS800

these would be fine with that tire
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kenda-No...36?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ae1555764

 

[John Bozi]

Really enjoy your videos ,im going to order a soko chain tensioner it looks very adaptable,thanks for sharing that.

Thanks beast! It means a lot when someone says something positive about my videos.

I really like my last short one with the music it was perfect... but got a copyright strike from YT so removed the song...
Anyway this is 31% the steepest slope with a sign in my city for proof of what the little motor can do.

[youtube]duR-vGb6HCE[/youtube]


It actually didn't seem like it would work, but after much playing around I found it just barely worked for my application. It may not work for you depending on many things.

For me the chain rubs on it softly but allowing more sag which creates more tension on the chain it would pull just off the it. So it is not perfect but as good a solution as I can find.

Sean, that rim's sold out and looks rather expensive anyway since would I need that hub or spokes?
What's the fattest spokes the oset hub can take? Did you buy it from oset australia?

I won't be changing anything on my current bike, I am always searching for a combination for another project.

I think I would need to buy the motor first, then see how much space I would have on the swing arm for it... I would have two main choices, an even smaller diameter wheel to fit on the same length swing arm or a custom swing arm extending to give more space for the motor. all looks complex and $$$

Anyways I was wondering if it would ok to bulk charge under my current battery connection style... this is how they are connected now 6s 6s 3s (possibly 5sx3 in future) minus the charger...

 

[John Bozi]

[youtube]vlCr5oyF9Ec[/youtube]

EDIT 27/4 ordered another matching on/off switch, and also threw $10 delivered on a front fender. HOpefully this will stop most the S$%t that flies up into my face when I go off road, and won't fall apart the first branch that jams up there.

 

[John Bozi]

http://www.opencyclemap.org/?zoom=16&lat=-27.45368&lon=152.90359&layers=B0000

Had a memorable ride yesterday.

I've been riding like I stole the bike as the way I see it is I can't extend my range by going slower unless I go super slow like 8kmh. So I am kind of caught in moto territory now.

We have had the wettest weather in history for this time of year, and everything was muddy and flooded so my bike and I was covered in mud and I had cold wet mud down my but from the tyre spray.

I decided to take track which I had never been down. I always passed the 69 track but never knew quite where it went. It was excellent choice as it came down to an area that I had been to before but never spent much time in. It was a long time ago when I ran my 26" rear at 48v headways so that mountain pass or the bottom section of the 69 track and Mcdonalds loop seemed too hard to ride. NOT NOW the bafang just laughs it off.

Weird thing was I came down was disorientated. I knew the area but was confused exactly which way was home. The reservoir track was completely flooded over so I knew I couldn't go back either way along it.

As I went back I got stuck in a loop! Small amount of panic as my battery was running out and it was getting dark.

After doing the loop twice I found my way back up the same way I came. It was amazing crossing newly formed creeks everywhere and ploughing through mud.

As I was riding home I was amazed as in my direction back there was a full moon. Was a truly beautiful and memorable ride.

I want to go and record some of those parts in a week or so once the main tracks are dry.

 

[drew12345]

Love it when I experience a new trail. And love when I get in the mud. I just don't enjoy it mud afterwards. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Sean9002]

Good to see that chain slap gone!
Time to move to straight middrive

 

[Samd]

Good to see that chain slap gone!
Time to move to straight middrive

I can't help but wonder if there's quite a bit of truth in that! John is certainly exhausting all the options...

 

[John Bozi]

I did go to straight mid drive with the bafang. I think you guys mean go to LR or other high powered single speed mid drive.

anyway the last post I made didn't suggest I was having any issues with what I wanted to ride with this set up so moving right along... 8)

I am however entertaining the bulk charging thang. I was going to go high power but in the end thought I will just be decreasing my battery life. Now I am seriously contemplating the satiator although 60v is really getting low, thought for every day riding it would be ok to charge to 4v and just use battery medics. My current cells have a few sick ones that are pretty out of wack so I would be scared to bulk charge over 4v a cell bulk charging.

Right now I am trying to work out how to connect a plug, which connector, with which gauge wire would be ok to leave on the bike. All my connections are in 5.5 gold bullets but I don't want my bulk charge plugs to be two of those for safety reasons leaving them like that just makes huge shorts come to mind.... Unless they were far from each other on the bike.