(answered) advice on last bits n pieces for etrike (fuse..)

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Aug 2, 2011
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Oakland California
[THREAD ANSWERED (thanks WesNewell and Dogman Dan) AND HEARD BACK FROM STORE - THIS POST LEFT UP TO AVOID CONFUSION}

Hi all,
Almost there - this etrike runs, now all it needs is a 40amp fuse and a switch, and maybe a relay. I don't know where to get them, or which ones would be compatible with the power cable terminal.

I have photographed the power cable terminal which connects the battery to the controller/motor. This would be where I'd put the fuse/relay/switch, so ideally they would be available ready to plug in directly, without any soldering etc. (photo attached to this post)

It's 24V, and the diagram I found online shows these motors hooked up to a 40amp fuse and 40amp switch or relay/switch.

My fear is that the parts aren't available ready to plug in to each other, but I'm hoping someone knows ones that would/might work. I'd like it to look good.

Thanks
 

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That's a piss poor plug. Just cut the damn things off and install whatever you want with an in line fuse. If you don't know how to crimp or solder connections, you need to learn.
 
Thanks for your advice, I didn't realize there was anything wrong with it. I'm glad you saw it and posted! That opens up the options, I'll check what other people use.

(About "crimping" instead of soldering: The local ebike shop owner recommended against crimping due to it forming "hot spots" with higher resistance. )
 
Well, that's true if you crimp for shit. A proper crimp is not always easy, but your shop guy should have the skill and the right tool. Not knocking soldering, just saying a professional should be able to make crimps that don't have hot spots.

Count the soldered connectors in your car, for example. None, or if any it's only the main battery wire, which likely has a crimp underneath the molded lead battery clamp.

For sure, those cheap bullets can't handle up to 40 amps. Under that molded plastic housing, it's crimped btw.

Big fuses and holders are easy to find, and it's also possible to use a pair of smaller fuses in parallel.

The switch is a proper plug. Better than a high amps DC switch. Larger andersons which are often crimped, 4mm or larger bullets which are always soldered, or any of the other typical plug types common in the RC drone world.
 
Hey thanks Dogman Dan, I appreciate your setting me straight.

I've since read some posts about crimping/soldering on the forums, and I feel I understand it better now. I learned that the solder has higher resistance than the copper wire, but it can help transfer heat, if applied as a thin layer before crimping.

And for a crimp where the wire ends in a U-bend, like automotive spade connectors, applying the solder to only one side was advice from liveforphysics, to avoid creating a stress-riser failure point: https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=24666&p=356964&hilit=+riser#p356964
 
I did heard back from the store, so I took out the line about that in the first post.

Also just wanted to edit/update this thread as answered. I renamed the thread "(answered)" and I have placed this line in the first post:

" [THREAD ANSWERED (thanks WesNewell and Dogman Dan) AND HEARD BACK FROM STORE - THIS POST LEFT UP TO AVOID CONFUSION} "
 
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