Any more info on 250W 24V hub motor we bought

[koo]

My father bought a 250W hub motor for his roadback from http://www.electric-bike-kit.com/24velectricbikehubmotor.aspx.

This is all the info that came on the website.

This planetary-geared BLDC PWM 250w 24v brushless hub motor, weighing six pounds comes in a UPS flat rate box with an eight inch cable attached. To operate this motor you will need a pulse width modulation (PWM) controller to convert the basic DC of a battery to a modulated current (the motor cable contains three power wires). Approximately 200 rpm at a 4-amp load.

Tough, rugged, and fully weather proof. Internally greased and fully sealed for years of maintenance free reliable operation. This motor comes with our standard 2-year warranty, but basically you can expect it to outlast your bike or whatever vehicle you are driving with it.

Enjoy!

We are planning on using this with 8s LiPo configuration (30V) and we will monitor the ampdraw to make sure it doesn't burn. Here are my questions:
1. Are there any problems using a Hobbywing platinum 70a HV ESC (that supports up to 12s) that we own if we switch the cables.
2. Where can we find more info about the motor?
3. Whats the actual max Watts we can put into this.
4. How many poles does this motor have.

Thanks guys!

 

[Hillhater]

I dont think you ESC will be very successful . ESC's dont work well with the relatively slow Hub motors.
The motor needs a sensored controller for it to work properly.
Look for a simple 6FET, 24v, Ebike controller ..they are cheap enough.

 

[amberwolf]

1. Are there any problems using a Hobbywing platinum 70a HV ESC (that supports up to 12s) that we own if we switch the cables.
2. Where can we find more info about the motor?
3. Whats the actual max Watts we can put into this.
4. How many poles does this motor have.

1: My guess is no--it probably can't start the bike going on a hubmotor wihtout such a high current spike that it may blow up. You could try it, but beware it may pop. I'm sure it could run the motor itself off ground, or it could run it once you get up to speed by pedalling, but may not handle the startup current spike (apparently RC type controllers may not have any current limiting/protection, which you would need in that situation).

2: what info are you looking for, specifically, other than in 3 and 4 above? You'd have to find out who actually made the motor to get more specifications, if the place you bought it from won't answer your questions about those. Or try to match it to pictures of other ones people hav eposted here on ES and elsewhere, if they posted the info you need.

3: Max watts as in *peak* or *continuous*? Peak, you can probably put at least double the rating in there for a few seconds, but not very often on a ride. Much less often and shorter, triple ot several times the power rating--depends on how strong it's clutch and gears are more than anything else, based on my geared motor experience.
Continuous? that rating probably *is* the continous rating it's guaranteed to keep working at, but to find out it's destruction point you'd actualy have to push it untl it broke...I'd guess that double the wattage for a whole ride owuld probably overheat it. that could damage the halls or the windings or the gears, depending on where the weak point is. Dunno without trying it.

4: You'd either have to open it to count the magnets, or assuming it is sensored, you could hook a meter to a hall sensor output (while the motor is connected to a sensored-type controller), and count hte number of times the output toggles.