Axle partially spun in the dropout, could it cause this issu

I found a thread with a pic of an older HS3540 axle from back when they used to fit a key, you will notice in the pic you cant see a key way because it is on the opposite side to the wire channel, unlike the pic of the more recent broken one in my post a little further up.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=54417

Since they have been machining the axles with the key way on the wrong side they have not been using a key but relying purely on the grip of the "spline" to handle the torque reaction. I don't think anyone needs to worry about them slipping, the axles are made oversize and pressed in to a hole that is smaller than the axle. part of the splines purpose is to give the excess metal somewhere to go when it is displaced during installation. They are so tight if pressed out by applying force to the end of the threaded section it often snaps off, pushing from the shoulder at the und of the thread can also mushroom the shaft increasing its dia, what I am trying to say is that if the axle where clamped by its flats and the stator rotated in an attempt to make it slip the axle will snap before the stator slipped.
 
Well I learned something new today :D

Glad to know that the was not missing and they just stopped using them. Sort of. :? :lol:
 
John in CR said:
Dan,

I'd say no, don't try to power the motor until you get the stator secured to the axle with a "key". Be sure whoever is doing that rotates it the correct direction to relieve stress on the wires from the partial spin. Since that's an obvious problem inside the motor, and it was working fine before, then it's most likely the cause of a short. That short could have blown your controller too.

Get the stator rotated back and key in, before doing anything more. That should give a bit of slack in the wires to inspect them. Press the stator out of the magnet ring (not by pressing on the axle), and then you can use a magnet and a 5v source to check the halls. They sense a change in magnet polarity, and when supplied 5V and a ground on the 2 supply wires of the 5 hall wires (typically obvious which are which), then the hall will pulse a 4-5V on it's signal line. You should test that while you have the motor open, for the likely event you run a sensored controller in the future.

You also want to check the phase wires for shorts to the stator, and each other. The last part is more difficult because the other ends of the 3 are tied together. You'll want to look for cuts in the phase wires that could have occurred from the stator spin on the axle.

Another reason you need to press the magnet ring off of the stator is to find and remove all those metal bits, which are likely parts of the axle key. The air gap between the stator steel and magnet ring is quite small, so bits of metal left behind will cause noise and problems. The magnets are very strong, and manual pressing off will probably be needed, so be careful not to catch your fingers in there. It's a job easier for the large guys, because we can use mass for a clean smooth push.

Just so you guys know I really appreciate the help! Im going to respond very quickly to some things that have been said but my shops been keeping me busy so I'll have to absorb this throughout the day!

Thanks as always for the help John!
So with this new information from Tench do I still have to separate the stator from the magnets by hand or can I use a gear puller?

Tench said:
The Crystalyte axles have had the key way machined on the wrong side for quite some time now, if they had used a key when they installed the axle the wire channel would not align with the point the phases and halls exit the stator. All the crystalyte motors have not had a key fitted for the last couple of years, yours has not slipped! Your key has not disintegrated, it never had one!

On the plus side I have never seen an axle spin in the stator, personally I don't think it is an issue, just leave it as it is, the chances of getting the axle out and back in again with out damaging it are VERY SLIM!! The press fit is so tight they often bend during removal.

A lot of people have offered advice on this axle issue, I know Cal has had experience of removing and changing axles, I have done many, and the missing key is NOT an issue, the axle will not rotate!

A replacement axle I have made to replace broken axles in Crystalyte motors, (mine do use a full length key) you will also notice the key way on mine is the opposite side to the wire channel so it can be used with correct wire channel orientation.

Well this is good news! One possible issue resolved! I couldn't get over to my buddies house to test it further last night but Im trying to make darn sure I get over there this evening. Along with your post John and Spicerack I will have plenty to test.

Sadly Ive been planning this build since there was still snow on the ground and have yet to get a bike together besides my wifes lol. Like I said I will post more regarding all of your responses when I get some free time today.

Dan L.
 
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