BOSS LEVEL CUSTOM SPOT WELDER

derekisastro said:
Seems like I have run into the same issue as Hemo.

I will need to take apart the spot welder and check my Arduino board ... if it is indeed the same problem, I may end up replacing the board myself and getting the files from Aulakiria.

I'll be back if it is another problem ...
Click to expand...

My new upper Arduino board didn't resolve my issue so rather then pour more money in to it, have all but given up with it now. Cost or repairing /sending to and fro makes it not viable for me.

Currently using a Malectrics which is as equally as good if not actually better.
 
I did this weekend a shockproof pack for a Trampa mountainboard. My customer is more of an animal than a human so it really needs to be rock solid to last in his hands.
I used both welding and the neodinium magnets technique. The welds are really really unlikely to fail due to vibrations and continuous hard landings.

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The neodinium magnets technique has been widely discussed at this very forum. Once the magnets are epoxied/glued or stuck somehow they do not let the copper sheet move. I used 0.1 copper sheet and my boss welder.
I used a smart bms to charge to 4.10v the cells, skip voltmeter and lock the battery. Controlled by Xiaoxiang app android.
It has high density foam on and under the pack so it can absorb vibrations. Of course insulated with kapton, barley paper and eva foam. The spacers grant both natural cooling and increase greatly the structure strength. Has some glass fibre tape too.
It's been put inside a carbon fibre box and has a fuse protection.
There's no way to destroy this pack ;)

I taped part of the proccess. I will make a video if i find some time.
 
I have tested the sandwich method with the boss welder today.

[youtube]aTheeIj0Iu0[/youtube]

0.1 sandwich test.jpg

Left is sandwich method and right is direct spot weld.
I guess that method is good for machines unable to weld copper but not for the boss welder.
Direct is far superior with this machine.
 
You did it for real ! 0.1 mm pure copper:
[youtube]hrvplvwQM7s[/youtube]

Where a 0.1 mm x 10 mm strip of Nickel could safely pass 4.1 amps
Where a 0.1 mm x 10 mm strip of Aluminium could safely pass 9.6 amps,
Then a 0.1 mm x 10 mm strip of Copper can safely pass 15 amps,

So imaging when you weld copper sheet instead of copper strips !!!
Pretty sure you can safely pass 90 amps through them... and this is a rather conservative ampacity rating (extrapolated from powerstream.com)...

My only concern is: are 0.1 copper sheath strong enough not to sheer off un stress and vibrations ?

I used 0.127 mm copper sheets to do a pack (god forbid, I soldered it), but it's holding off real well.

Pics of mine:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93576&p=1429947&hilit=Ancheer#p1414963

Matador
 
spinningmagnets said:
What thickness of copper sheet are you using? What size and N-rating of magnet are you using? (link?)
Click to expand...

That pack has 0.1 pure copper. The magnets are these:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bXeMJ9ZO

The pack has been tested under rough conditions. Very intense vibrations and shocks. So far so good.
The same guy destroyed his previous commercial pack in under a week. I am confident on my pack. Weld+magnets will not fail easily
 
Matador said:
My only concern is: are 0.1 copper sheath strong enough not to sheer off un stress and vibrations ?

I used 0.127 mm copper sheets to do a pack (god forbid, I soldered it), but it's holding off real well.

Pics of mine:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93576&p=1429947&hilit=Ancheer#p1414963

Matador
Click to expand...
Well ...that is my main and only bike right now. It has dual suspension so vibrations are not so hard. The pack works like a dream. Has a monstrous power. So far so good. No issues at all
 
I just did another pack. Same method, 0.1 copper sheet+neodinium 12s4p with sony konions vtc4+120amps bms inside a waterproof pelican case. 3.2 kg of pure powah for a trampa e-mtb

20190608_170742.jpg


20190608_175059.jpg



20190608_175142.jpg


20190608_175410.jpg
 
Today i made another sandwich method test with the custom boss spot welder.
I am very happy with the results. Copper on copper sucks. I have never managed to make a decent weld. They do not stick. Using the sandwich method i made two strips of copper with nickel inside stick and two strips of nickel with copper inside stick too.
Even though i prefer wide tabs this could be useful. Making it possible made my day.

all.jpg
left= double sandwich---------------------------------------middle single sandwich---------------------------right= copper on copper

copper on copper.jpg
copper on copper=very weak welds. NOT viable

single sandwich.jpg
single sandwich= copper on copper with some nickel inside. Successful

double sandwich.jpg
double sandwich=copper+nickel+copper+nickel. It failed yet seems two nickel strips with some copper inside is viable

These tests could be useful. The sandwich method can have some applications after all with this machine.

This is the video:

[youtube]ksNei5jzvJA[/youtube]
 
Good morning. For those who have difficulties with the pen maintenance and building new ones you will be glad to know that the sunkko is discounted now.

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cmVje588

Just solder an xt90 and ready to go.
The tips are extremely expensive but I think you should be able to make your own with this:


https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/9lO9hFa
 
Mostly yes. Fets will die eventually but heat is what will kill them fast. If you keep the machine cold you are good for next weld.
 
[youtube]kjhmWXenyTE[/youtube]

I did this video for another forum yet it's interesting here too. Order matters:


1st I tested copper on steel and nickel on it.
Good results as usual

2nd I did copper on nickel. Not very good yet acceptable.

3rd nickel on copper. Very good.

As you can see the order matters. Copper on nickel makes weaker welds using the same settings (9ms X2)
Copper on copper sux. I said it several times. Not viable not even using tungsten points. At least I didn't succeed so far.
Make sure the strips are flat and you make good pressure or you will make holes. Copper needs a lot of practice to master. It's as easy as nickel once you figure it out.
 
Well ...that is my main and only bike right now. It has dual suspension so vibrations are not so hard. The pack works like a dream. Has a monstrous power. So far so good. No issues at all
[/quote]

is the minispot a capable of doing .1mm copper foil? i know you wrote .05mm was doable but I am also concerned it's too thin and will tear.

also, why do you use the magnets if the copper foil is already welded. i thought the magnets were for solderless / weldless packs?
 
0.1 totally not recommended with the minispotA.
The heat is xtreme.
0.05 is a very good choice. I did packs with it. Better than 0.2 nickel imho.
The packs with magnets are shockproof. For trampa mountainboards. The magnets are a plus in reliability. Jump high problem free.
 
Ok, long story short - I thought my welder went dead when actually it was wire coming loose off the Lipo cell Tab.

Due to difficulty soldering the wire back to lipo (because of going from 4s to 3s lipo), the new solder connection didnt stick very well and started coming off.

I did think for a few moments I killed the mosfets, when in turn lipo didnt give the power, as the welds were super weak before hand also.
 
Thanks to forum user Maddin88 who owns a kweld which is able to show current draw from the battery, I was able to check my 4s A123 AMP20 pack's capability. This pack was built from 6y+ old b-grade cells which set on the shelf for that time. I put them to new use, combining them with metal clamps. Soldered #10 battery wires to it, but those may we replaced for #8.

Welding showed a max current of 1200A+. Quite nice :)

I also ordered an electrode set from aliexpress for $10 and replaced the wires by #6 silicone wire.

Comparing this welder directly to a kweld, i must say that the kweld looks more user friendly and more feature rich. Also it handles thicker nickel much better than this one. On the other hand it may be that i puts way too more energy into the weld.
Eg. Setting to 40J for a 0.2mm weld showed 30ms welding time (with 1200A that is)
Setting it to 30J gave 17ms (similar to max setting of my welder) but results of the kweld where still way better.

This is what the setup (with a big heatsink installed) looks like now:


IMG_3203.JPG
 
rojitor said:
Looks good. Nice find.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I always take your videos as reference to see if a weld it ok, good, or perfect. I use blades for testing as well, but have a strange phenonem. It seems that turning UP the time makes welds not better, or at least I don't see those massive burnings as in your video.
I can make welds that stick fine most of the time, and sometimes 5ms is better than 7ms or even 10ms. Welds where little dots stick to the battery and leave little holes once you rip off the strip. But the kweld just makes BIGGER dots. Any idea why?
And I found it needs 3x for welding a strip over another one, already welded to the cell. Can you confirm that? If I do it with the same settings (1x) as for normals welds it will just fall off.
 
When you weld on top of other layers sometimes you have to rise power a little but all that depends on the lipo you are using. I can't tell the difference with kweld because I do not own it. Won't speak about something I don't know about.
 
I have a typical very oversized dual transformer (one 40/100a one 12v circuit feed) spot welder, ....what else do it need to be brazenly welding copper tabs to my battery????
 
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