cheapcookie
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2014
- Messages
- 265
rojitor said:
Wow thanks for going out of you way to try out stuff for our viewing pleasure, if you have other ideas or need anyyhing, I'll be glad to help
BOSS LEVEL CUSTOM SPOT WELDER
- Thread starter rojitor
- Start date
Wow thanks for going out of you way to try out stuff for our viewing pleasure, if you have other ideas or need anyyhing, I'll be glad to help
I ordered a welder 
I also have copper and aluminum coming in the mail. I'm trying to find suitable fluxes as well. Any suggestions with regard to the flux?
I think it might be worth trying to weld copper as 2 separate strips with one contact on each strip instead of a single strip with both contacts on the same strip. This might allow the copper/battery interface to see more heat since the current would have to travel through the battery instead of purely though the favorable conductive pathway of the single piece of copper.... will also try with and without flux and possibly also a slight amount of solder paste between the battery and the copper strips.... anything to try and reduce the free travel of current and allow heat to build momentarily....
I also have copper and aluminum coming in the mail. I'm trying to find suitable fluxes as well. Any suggestions with regard to the flux?
I think it might be worth trying to weld copper as 2 separate strips with one contact on each strip instead of a single strip with both contacts on the same strip. This might allow the copper/battery interface to see more heat since the current would have to travel through the battery instead of purely though the favorable conductive pathway of the single piece of copper.... will also try with and without flux and possibly also a slight amount of solder paste between the battery and the copper strips.... anything to try and reduce the free travel of current and allow heat to build momentarily....
rojitor
100 kW
Thank you bro. Maybe a cheap source for aluminium would help. I have low expectations on it anyway. Copper is much better (and expensive) and probably easier to weld.cheapcookie said:
rojitor
100 kW
Welcome to the club 12-C. I will try this with aluminium http://alumsolder.co.uk/ a friend of mine used it and seems to work very well.
About the copper I used common pipe copper flux but made no effect.
0.05 welded very easily on 3s but it is so weak that is not worth it.
0.1 needs 4s and gets slightly damaged on the surface but works fine.
I didn't test 0.15. Did 0.2 and failed. If you test it I recommend you not to go above 4s lipo and wear glasses and gloves all the time. If the contact is not perfect you will see projectiles flying all around.
Copper on copper did very weak welds on my test. That can be solved welding big strips or welding on nickel. The parallel require very little conductivity after all. Copper only for series could be a very nice solution. I plan to make a pack soon, will share the experience.
About the copper I used common pipe copper flux but made no effect.
0.05 welded very easily on 3s but it is so weak that is not worth it.
0.1 needs 4s and gets slightly damaged on the surface but works fine.
I didn't test 0.15. Did 0.2 and failed. If you test it I recommend you not to go above 4s lipo and wear glasses and gloves all the time. If the contact is not perfect you will see projectiles flying all around.
Copper on copper did very weak welds on my test. That can be solved welding big strips or welding on nickel. The parallel require very little conductivity after all. Copper only for series could be a very nice solution. I plan to make a pack soon, will share the experience.
rojitor
100 kW
I guess you mean their video. They did a quick lousy job just to prove it gets stuck on other metals and they succeeded on that
Aluminium has a tricky behaviour reputation.
My friend used that flux on a tesla pack succesfully. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88862
I don't think aluminium can beat copper but is very interesting to me and worth a shot. Just for science..
I am also electroplating copper lately. I wanna see how good or bad welds it makes.
Aluminium has a tricky behaviour reputation.
My friend used that flux on a tesla pack succesfully. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88862
I don't think aluminium can beat copper but is very interesting to me and worth a shot. Just for science..
I am also electroplating copper lately. I wanna see how good or bad welds it makes.
rojitor
100 kW
That green boiling stuff is making the magic.
We have been discussing it here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=85310
I do not plan to do it for every single strip I weld but I wanna test the difference.
I left half strip out that time. I am doing some full strips now.
parabellum
1 MW
Why is it boiling. Is it nickel acetate? Are you overvolting it?rojitor said:
The hotter the acetate, the faster the chemical reaction that results in plating...
parabellum
1 MW
Yes, but slow plating is more durable and adhered. The Quicker the plating and higher voltage, the less adherence to the work piece I got in my tests with acetate electroplating.spinningmagnets said:
Maybe it is other technique he uses. :?
rojitor
100 kW
[youtube]09njnRCT7vU[/youtube]
I tested 1.5v with salfumant. It works fast but I don't like the results. Too agressive. I guess that's good for thick pieces like coins but not so good for thin sheets.
I used common Kitchen salt on 5v for this. Once the acetate is done it works. It is not fast at all but not agressive either. I think the nickel layer is stable. I hope that defined my method.
cheapcookie
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2014
- Messages
- 265
Have you tried welding them yet ? (the nickel plated copper ones)
rojitor
100 kW
No. Not yet. But that's the plan. If there is any difference I wanna know.... I will next week.
rojitor, thank you so much for doing these experiments. I think copper buses and nickel-plated copper buses will be the heart of the next generation of high-performance battery packs.
cheapcookie
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2014
- Messages
- 265
spinningmagnets said:
Do you know if it works well yet :S ?
Will next-gen cells be cylindrical or pouches ? will they have connectors or stay flat ?
Will they integrate resetable fuses in their design ?
rojitor
100 kW
There is no way to know the future cheapcookie but we can guess for sure that lithium is the next petroleum. Doesn't really matter the shape of the cells. Most probably will be cylindrical for a few years. 18650 replacement is 21700. There's a lot of possible variables. Others are doing solid state lithium and experimenting with different anodes but the market will go in the lithium direction for sure. Every other alternatives are being delayed/stalled. We will not see the graphene battery or any other lithium killer for a long time because money is the motor of the world. And the market is taking off on lithium wings.
It's Plenty of threads of copper tests at the sphere, resistance, induction, welding, neodinium magnets ...
Copper is almost 5 times more conductive than nickel while dissipates better the heat so Yes! The close future we are facing is cylindrical cells and copper or plated copper is probably the best solution. The time to test it is NOW.
Thanks a lot for your comment spinningmagnets. I really appreciate it.
It's Plenty of threads of copper tests at the sphere, resistance, induction, welding, neodinium magnets ...
Copper is almost 5 times more conductive than nickel while dissipates better the heat so Yes! The close future we are facing is cylindrical cells and copper or plated copper is probably the best solution. The time to test it is NOW.
Thanks a lot for your comment spinningmagnets. I really appreciate it.
rojitor
100 kW
sell what? if you mean the boss spot welder i have nothing to do with it. I'm just a mere user. Aulakiria sells them. Check the first post for more info.
rojitor
100 kW
In case someone is curious about the electroplating i will show you my method. I tested several.... in my opinion this is the least agressive and cheap for our thin welding tabs. It's not fast. Takes half an hour to make effect, I leave it for 2-3 hours to make solid platings. I like the results. If you find a better method please share it with us.
[youtube]1bOJF5fWgJo[/youtube]
Clean thoroughly the tabs before plating for better results.
The vapors are toxic, do it in the open air, window..... use gloves and glasses. NIckel acetate is carcinogenic and irritates skin.
Use this method at your own risk.
[youtube]1bOJF5fWgJo[/youtube]
Clean thoroughly the tabs before plating for better results.
The vapors are toxic, do it in the open air, window..... use gloves and glasses. NIckel acetate is carcinogenic and irritates skin.
Use this method at your own risk.
Nice job!
What is the safe and recommended handling of nickel acetate? I'm going to look into this further...
I would recommend not handling anywhere near a food space in the home, (just a thing that was taught to us in chemistry and biology )
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9926211
What is the safe and recommended handling of nickel acetate? I'm going to look into this further...
I would recommend not handling anywhere near a food space in the home, (just a thing that was taught to us in chemistry and biology
)http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9926211
When I was a kid, we used to spread nickel acetate on our crackers, and we were happy to have it! (*cough, cough)
parabellum
1 MW
Till now I only used vinegar electrolyte with a sprinkle of salt, for conductivity at first (after nickel is dissolved salt is not needed any more). Electrolyte is crystal clear (greenish but not cloudy) and bubbling is minimal.rojitor said:
I have 2 questions:
1) Did you try this method? Which is better mechanical result (adherence)?
2)How do you clean the copper, before plating?
rojitor
100 kW
I tried acid method first. It was too fast. The nickel melted in no time and I didn't like the plated so I swapped to alkaline. It is very slow but the plated looks solid. I didn't try vinegar so I can't tell by own experience.
My copper comes very clean. Just a piece of paper is enough to clean it. I used water and soap for the parts with adhesive and I try not to touch the strips with bare hands to prevent fat spots. I think alcohol or acetone would be good too.
I filter the acetate after a couple uses to eliminate the debris. It leaves Black Marks otherwise. My acetate is indeed cloudy. I see different green liquids on other methods.
My copper comes very clean. Just a piece of paper is enough to clean it. I used water and soap for the parts with adhesive and I try not to touch the strips with bare hands to prevent fat spots. I think alcohol or acetone would be good too.
I filter the acetate after a couple uses to eliminate the debris. It leaves Black Marks otherwise. My acetate is indeed cloudy. I see different green liquids on other methods.
One of the videos suggested that stirring the solution during the plating process helps. At my work we use lab-stirrers, where a small glass-covered bar magnet is dropped in a solution inside a glass beaker. Under it is a machine that has a spinning magnet in it with an adjustable speed. The two magnets follow each other. Should be easy to make one up, since you only need one speed (slow and steady).
rojitor
100 kW
I agree. I think Stirring helps. I noticed it precipitates. I used a wood Kitchen chopstick.
I just filtered it.
Crystals and nickel debris.
I will test them on my crackers for dinner. They look yummy
I just filtered it.
Crystals and nickel debris.
I will test them on my crackers for dinner. They look yummy
