Build Help - Commuter (10Mi RT) For GF. (Update: Now for me)

http://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure
I've added the GM 901 motor to that database. I think this is the same size. If so, just put 901 in the hub search and select GoldenMotor 901 and either select the rim or put in the specs for the one you get.
http://leonard.io/edd
 
wesnewell said:
http://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure
I've added the GM 901 motor to that database. I think this is the same size. If so, just put 901 in the hub search and select GoldenMotor 901 and either select the rim or put in the specs for the one you get.
http://leonard.io/edd
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks for the link.

I think I'm going to get a DX32 and something like a Pirelli M75 tire, which should help make up for the lack of a suspension. I think I'll probably go with a single cross pattern unless anyone recommends something else.

How confident are you that the measurements are the same as the GoldenMotor 901? I'd prefer to not have to wait for the motor to order the spokes if at all possible.
 
nlhaines said:
How confident are you that the measurements are the same as the GoldenMotor 901? I'd prefer to not have to wait for the motor to order the spokes if at all possible.
Click to expand...
It's just a guess. Those are the measurements taken from my old version yescomusa motor. I put them in as the 901 because that's what the old version yescomusa motor is. Most of these size motors seem to the same measurements. BTW, if you are going to use a 20" wheel, I'd suggest radial lacing. A 1x pattern will put too much of an angle on the spokes where they meet the rim imo.
 
wesnewell said:
nlhaines said:
How confident are you that the measurements are the same as the GoldenMotor 901? I'd prefer to not have to wait for the motor to order the spokes if at all possible.
Click to expand...
It's just a guess. Those are the measurements taken from my old version yescomusa motor. I put them in as the 901 because that's what the old version yescomusa motor is. Most of these size motors seem to the same measurements. BTW, if you are going to use a 20" wheel, I'd suggest radial lacing. A 1x pattern will put too much of an angle on the spokes where they meet the rim imo.
Click to expand...

Okay, I'll go with straight radial then.

I also read somewhere that you should parallel your battery bricks before putting them in series. Is this true? I was going by the wiring diagram you gave me, but I'll make a bunch more parallel connectors if there's a good reason for doing so.
 
It doesn't matter one bit how you hook them up first. Hooking them in series first doesn't change the individual cell voltage. All packs should be balanced to the same voltage before doing a parallel connection. Just charge them all to either store voltage or max voltage and then hook them up.
 
mark5 said:
nlhaines said:
I also read somewhere that you should parallel your battery bricks before putting them in series.
Click to expand...
Some people prefer one way and others prefer the other way. Here's a consolidated thread on the subject.

parallel connection 1st or in series?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=41462
Click to expand...
Looks like putting them in parallel in sets of 3 (for 15ah) then putting 3 of those in series would make charging a bit easier, just because I don't see a whole lot of 12s chargers....
 
nlhaines said:
mark5 said:
nlhaines said:
I also read somewhere that you should parallel your battery bricks before putting them in series.
Click to expand...
Some people prefer one way and others prefer the other way. Here's a consolidated thread on the subject.

parallel connection 1st or in series?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=41462
Click to expand...
Looks like putting them in parallel in sets of 3 (for 15ah) then putting 3 of those in series would make charging a bit easier, just because I don't see a whole lot of 12s chargers....
Click to expand...
Yeah, convenience for the charger (if it's not 12s or more capable) is what I also get from reading that. But if your connectors leading to the controller are the way wesnewell usually recommends then you can either connect the outputs of seriesed pack groups to it or you can connect the output of paralleled then seriesed packs, like you just described*, to it.

* thread showing convenience of charging when connecting in parallel then series:
Icecube57's Lipo battery harness review, 4 battery set. by dogman
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32096
 
Thanks Mark. Looking over that thread and icecubes solution has been helpful...

So I'm still thinking this through, but I think the best solution is something like this:

Get 3 more hardcase 4s packs to make 12. Pair them into 6 8s blocks. Parallel those 8s blocks into two sets of 3, giving me 2 8s 15ah packs. Use those in series, charge them in parallel with a big 8s charger. I'll just have to make the balance cables to convert two 4s packs to 8s.

Another option would be getting a 4x6s charger, but those don't seem to have a much higher wattage/price ratio. Might be worth it to save me all the trouble though.
 
Thinking about buying these:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24245__Turnigy_1080W_100_120V_Power_Supply_13_8V_18V_60amp_US_Warehouse_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56257__Turnigy_MEGA_1000W_8S_40A_Lithium_Polymer_Balance_Charger_US_Warehouse_.html

...but then is the expensive power supply any better than putting a few server PSU's in series?
 
mark5 said:
As less expensive, more powerful alternatives icecube57 sells power supplies at http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/Power-Supplies_c2.htm. And, as you know, you can also do it yourself.

How to build a $20 47A power supply
(on eBay search for hp esp135)
http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27554
Click to expand...

I think I am going to buy a 3s2p harness from Ice Cube. I'll use it for a 12s 15ah pack to start with (I'll parallel 6 of my bricks into 3 4s 10ah packs), and then when I upgrade my controller I'll switch to a 24s10 ah pack.

Making the cables is simple enough, but its pretty damn time consuming. Spending the $70-90 will save me quite a bit of time.

Does anyone recommend the inline fuse or precharge options? I'm leaning towards getting the precharge, but my only information I have on the issue is from his videos....
 
The precharge option adds a resistor in the harness to suppress the spark, which can eventually degrade the connector contacts, when connecting the battery to controller. Here are 20- and 35-second videos that show the spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKHaqk9Jhe0, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdY6Mzu5tIM. If you use Anderson connectors to connect battery to controller their contact tips take the spark but the connectors mating surfaces are further beyond the tips so they stay in decent condition. So there are some people here that don't bother to use precharge.

An inline fuseholder like icecube57 uses would cost $5 minimum at eBay. Five fuses would cost another $5 there. So it seems worth it to get icecube57's fuse option which costs the same.
 
mark5 said:
The precharge option adds a resistor in the harness to suppress the spark, which can eventually degrade the connector contacts, when connecting the battery to controller. Here are 20- and 35-second videos that show the spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKHaqk9Jhe0, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdY6Mzu5tIM. If you use Anderson connectors to connect battery to controller their contact tips take the spark but the connectors mating surfaces are further beyond the tips so they stay in decent condition. So there are some people here that don't bother to use precharge.

An inline fuseholder like icecube57 uses would cost $5 minimum at eBay. Five fuses would cost another $5 there. So it seems worth it to get icecube57's fuse option which costs the same.
Click to expand...

Looks like neither option is really a bad idea, but does the spark always happen without the precharge protection? Does it happen even if the charger is off when you hook in the battery?
 
So the kit should be coming today, and the last thing to order is the spokes.

Does anybody have any recommendations as far as vendors go? Fast service would be especially nice, seeing as its the last piece to the puzzle. I'm excited to start putting everything together...
 
nlhaines said:
Looks like neither option is really a bad idea, but does the spark always happen without the precharge protection? Does it happen even if the charger is off when you hook in the battery?
Click to expand...
Precharge is about the spark you get when you connect your battery to the controller before riding your bike. It's not about connecting to the charger (do turn your charger on before connecting the battery). Maybe it's called precharge because it refers to charging capacitors in the controller before connecting full voltage. People here have said the spark is stronger at 20s or more like you want to use later so you'll probably find precharge helpful.

nlhaines said:
So the kit should be coming today, and the last thing to order is the spokes.

Does anybody have any recommendations as far as vendors go? Fast service would be especially nice, seeing as its the last piece to the puzzle. I'm excited to start putting everything together...
Click to expand...
 
wesnewell said:
http://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure
I've added the GM 901 motor to that database. I think this is the same size. If so, just put 901 in the hub search and select GoldenMotor 901 and either select the rim or put in the specs for the one you get.
http://leonard.io/edd
Click to expand...

Is there some trick to getting these measurements? Seems close to impossible with the wheel assembled, at least using a tape measure. The Goldenmotor 901 measurements look pretty close.

Does anybody know if yescom has the measurements published anywhere?
 
IIRC, I used calipers to measure from a spoke hole to center of axle and then just doubled it. I know I did it while the wheel was mounted on the bike.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-utility-caliper-7914.html
 
Update:

So I received some 13 guage spokes from holmeshobbies and put the wheel together, but I think my spokes may be a bit too long at 86mm. I tightened them with a screwdriver, though not all the way, and there was still some play in the hub. I'm hoping if I add some washers and tighten them all the way the wheel will be solid. Otherwise I may have to remeasure and try again, or maybe ship the hub off to be built by someone else. When are the spokes too long? I would guess if they extend beyond the nipple then that is a bad sign, and I especially would think if they are poking the rim tape they are too long.

I got a 3s2p harness from Ice Cube, which was well worth it given the time it would have taken me to build anything like that. I plan on getting some parallel harnesses from HobbyKing and building a 12s4p pack with it. I just need 3 more 4s hardcases. Right now I have a 12s 10ah pack all hooked up after store charging. A couple of the packs took forever to store charge. Does this mean they might be lower quality packs?

I'm looking for a good box that will fit 12 4s hardcase packs with a little extra space for the wires. I'm hoping to mount it up near the wheels in the front to bring the center of mass forward a bit. I think a pelican 1095 laptop case might work, but I'm hoping for something better.
 
AFAIK, the erd for a 20" Alex DX32 rim is 392mm. That would call for a spoke length of 80mm. 86mm is probably going to be too long for any 20" rim with radial lacing.
 
The 406 is not the ERD. It's the ETRTO full diameter of the rim.
 
wesnewell said:
The 406 is not the ERD. It's the ETRTO full diameter of the rim.
Click to expand...

Well, that's annoying. I don't get why they'd publish that instead of the ERD. Where do they publish the specs that are actually useful, such as ERD? Just want to confirm 392mm before I waste another $50 on spokes.

Any chance anyone would find 86mm spokes of any use?
 
http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/rim/112
I assume the 86mm spokes could be cut and threaded again, but I really don't know.
 
If anyone needs some 86mm spokes they can have them for the cost of shipping....

How accurate do the spokes need to be cut. I've gone back to the spoke calculator. Using my measurements for the hub and 392 for the ERD of the rim I get 78.9mm for the spokes. Using the GoldenMotor dimensions, from the database, which may be the actual measurements for my hub I get 79.6mm.

I also noticed that the ERD of the rim is actually 392.3mm according to thishttp://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/rim/112

So I'm thinking somewhere between 79-80mm would be just right, but I don't know exactly what is the best. Would .5mm make any difference? I'm thinking I could just go with 79.5 or so....Or maybe its better to have them a bit long and I could just go with 80mm.
 
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