wesnewell
100 GW
The length isn't that critical as long as they are long enough. I won't hurt to have them 1-2mm longer. More than 2mm either way *may* be problem.
Build Help - Commuter (10Mi RT) For GF. (Update: Now for me)
- Thread starter nlhaines
- Start date
nlhaines
100 W
You're the man Wes. Thank you so much. I'll see if JRH can cut/rethread these, or ill just order a new set at 80mm.wesnewell said:
I just hope that if I have to order a new set someone can use the old set.
nlhaines
100 W
Just received new 80mm spokes from JRH today. They allowed me to purchase them without the nipples since I had those left over from the previous order. Apparently the spokes could not be re-cut because a difference of 6mm would have meant cutting across threads, which would have made re-threading the spokes problematic.
I got 36 #4 brass washers, which are now keeping the smaller spokes snug against the hub.
I got 36 #4 brass washers, which are now keeping the smaller spokes snug against the hub.
nlhaines
100 W
So I slapped the tube/tire on the wheel, mounted it on the trike, and got it reasonably true (which took a bit of work). Next time I build a wheel I'll be sure to go 1/2 turn at a time for each spoke.
The Yescom hub came with a 7 speed freewheel, and I'm replacing an 8 speed freewheel, but still the 7 speed freewheel seems to just fit. Is there any way to get another 8 speed freewheel on there? If not, how difficult is it to modify things so my 24 speed is now a 21 speed? Other than this last issue I think I'm in pretty good shape and hope to have it ready to ride, if not completely finished, in another week or so.
The Yescom hub came with a 7 speed freewheel, and I'm replacing an 8 speed freewheel, but still the 7 speed freewheel seems to just fit. Is there any way to get another 8 speed freewheel on there? If not, how difficult is it to modify things so my 24 speed is now a 21 speed? Other than this last issue I think I'm in pretty good shape and hope to have it ready to ride, if not completely finished, in another week or so.
Chalo
100 TW
nlhaines said:
8-speed freewheels are 4mm wider than 7-speed freewheels. If you don't have more than 4mm of space available, you can't fit an 8-speed without adding spacing to the axle.
Instead, get a 7-speed shifter. Then you can use more durable 7-speed chains and sprockets. Understand that the widest range of gears available in 7-speed is exactly the same as the widest range available in 8-speed. Only gear-to-gear spacing differs, and only slightly.
nlhaines
100 W
I'm 100% okay with going to a 21 speed setup.
As of right now, with the gears shifter set to the smallest gear in the back the chain lines up with the second smallest gear on the freewheel. Is fixing that just a matter of adjusting the derailleur? If I were to take it to a bike shop to get the shifter installed, and derailleur adjusted, should I do that before or after installing all of the electrical components?
Currently I have a twist throttle and a twist shifter. I feel like I should either go to a thumb throttle or a thumb shifter. I probably won't be using the gears very often, so I'd go with whichever makes manipulating the throttle easier, but I'm unsure of which I would prefer. I would like to get something with a button that can be used for regen or cruise control down the line....
As of right now, with the gears shifter set to the smallest gear in the back the chain lines up with the second smallest gear on the freewheel. Is fixing that just a matter of adjusting the derailleur? If I were to take it to a bike shop to get the shifter installed, and derailleur adjusted, should I do that before or after installing all of the electrical components?
Currently I have a twist throttle and a twist shifter. I feel like I should either go to a thumb throttle or a thumb shifter. I probably won't be using the gears very often, so I'd go with whichever makes manipulating the throttle easier, but I'm unsure of which I would prefer. I would like to get something with a button that can be used for regen or cruise control down the line....
Chalo
100 TW
nlhaines said:
Shift all the way to the smallest sprocket and disconnect the shift cable. Adjust the limit screw marked "H" or "high" until the top jockey pulley lines up exactly with the teeth of the small sprocket. Then reconnect the shift cable without slack and use the barrel adjuster to fine tune the shifting.
You can adjust the low limit the same way, but you'll have to swing the derailleur to its inboard stop by hand. And you don't have to release the cable tension for that.
EDIT:
A twist throttle doesn't usually allow enough clearance for a trigger shifter to work on the same side. I assume that's what you mean by "thumb shifter".
This is a trigger shifter:
And this is a thumbshifter:
A true thumbshifter with old-fashioned geometry might work, but as far as I know those are only available these days in 9- or 10-speed. You could get a "thumbie" shifter perch (which is expensive and finicky to set up) and fit it with a 7sp downtube shifter, or depending on your style of handlebar you could use a bar-end shifter. Or you could get a modern cheapie plastic thumbshiter, but those seem bulkier than the ones of yore, and might not get along with a twist throttle.
Another alternative is to get a left-side twist throttle and shift the front with a friction thumbshifter on the right, inboard of the twist grip or trigger shifter.
nlhaines
100 W
I managed to get everything mounted on the handlebars that I'm relatively satisfied with. The twist throttle is on the right handlebar along with a trigger shifter mounted somewhat awkwardly below it. The reason its mounted so awkwardly is because it needs to clear the wheel when making a sharp turn. The trigger shifter and throttle were fairly easy to fit on the bar together otherwise.
So, for anyone interested, here are the challenges I still need to figure out:
1) Make cable for connecting batteries (Anderson connector) to controller (?)
2) Acquire proper crank arm removal/bottom bracket tools to install PAS sensor.
3) Mount Controller and LCD screen
4) Refine shifter setup
The battery cable is the first priority at this point, as I'd like to be able to test the motor and make sure the components are in good working order. The connections on the yescom controller are odd. They appear to be shoddy bullet connectors, but they don't fit with the connectors on my turnigy batteries. Perhaps its just a different size.
So, for anyone interested, here are the challenges I still need to figure out:
1) Make cable for connecting batteries (Anderson connector) to controller (?)
2) Acquire proper crank arm removal/bottom bracket tools to install PAS sensor.
3) Mount Controller and LCD screen
4) Refine shifter setup
The battery cable is the first priority at this point, as I'd like to be able to test the motor and make sure the components are in good working order. The connections on the yescom controller are odd. They appear to be shoddy bullet connectors, but they don't fit with the connectors on my turnigy batteries. Perhaps its just a different size.
nlhaines
100 W
I know have the brakes and shifters all set up. I've connected all the wires and the kit is working. All that's left is to wire everything up on the bike, mount the controller and lcd display, and install the PAS sensor.
To test the kit I hooked up a 12s1p pack using the HXT connectors. They wouldn't fit the battery connectors on the controller very well, but when I removed the plastic housing they could be forced in. I ordered some adapters that hopefully will fit the kit better.
There is an extra set of wires (2 small connectors in a bundle) on the controller that aren't shown on the pin out in the manual. I have no idea what they do. Does anybody have any ideas?
To test the kit I hooked up a 12s1p pack using the HXT connectors. They wouldn't fit the battery connectors on the controller very well, but when I removed the plastic housing they could be forced in. I ordered some adapters that hopefully will fit the kit better.
There is an extra set of wires (2 small connectors in a bundle) on the controller that aren't shown on the pin out in the manual. I have no idea what they do. Does anybody have any ideas?
nlhaines
100 W
So I was well on my way to finishing the build, but I've hit a snag installing the pedal assist. First, the left crank arm was stripped, but I managed to get it off. Once I got the pedal assist sensor in place and right crank arm back on the bike I realize that the magnetic disk won't fit between the chainrings and the sensor. It's a cheap setup with chainrings that can't be removed, so rather than get a new left crank arm I figure I might as well get a new crank set.
If I'd known pedal assist would have been this much trouble I would have skipped it altogether, but having gone through all that I don't want to scrap it. After all it might be nice to have the option of a huge chainring in front to allow for pedaling at fast speeds.
Does anyone have any recommendation for a crank set? I'm concerned about space for the magnetic disk and making sure it is compatible with the bottom bracket.
I'm considering these 2:
http://tinyurl.com/ks4lg5s
http://tinyurl.com/lfszqkq
Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
If I'd known pedal assist would have been this much trouble I would have skipped it altogether, but having gone through all that I don't want to scrap it. After all it might be nice to have the option of a huge chainring in front to allow for pedaling at fast speeds.
Does anyone have any recommendation for a crank set? I'm concerned about space for the magnetic disk and making sure it is compatible with the bottom bracket.
I'm considering these 2:
http://tinyurl.com/ks4lg5s
http://tinyurl.com/lfszqkq
Any advice would be hugely appreciated.
Chalo
100 TW
A longer bottom bracket is much cheaper than a new crank. A Shimano BB-UN26 costs $16 at my shop, and comes in lengths from 110mm to 127.5mm. If your old BB is closer to the former, then switching to the latter might buy you all the room you need.
dnmun
1 PW
or get rid of the pedelec altogether. that should have been first thing. do not understand why you need 24 speeds with that motor. even to pedal home with no battery 24 speed is way over the top imo.
nlhaines
100 W
Chalo said:
I actually decided a few days ago that a new crank was a bad idea. At first I thought my crank was "pressed" and that the chainrings were not detachable, so I figured I could upgrade the crank for $30-$50 and solve my pedal assist issue all at once....
I've moved on to trying to mount the sensor on the non-drive side. I held it in place with my hand and it appears to work. I'm going to check out home depot today and see if I can find a pipe clamp or something that will work. The BB shell is about 1.53" in diameter. I found some washers online with an inner diameter just above that, but shipping is $10, which is a bit ridiculous.
Plan B will be to get a longer bottom bracket (if the BB I have is getting long in the tooth). If it's "like new". I'll just scrap the pedal assist altogether.
nlhaines
100 W
dnmun said:
If I had realized from the outset what a pain Pedal Assist would have been I probably wouldn't have bothered, but I don't like to give up once I set out to do something. Furthermore, I'm enjoying the project, and a few challenges here and there are part of the fun.
What does pedal assist have to do with the number of gears? It came with 24 speeds, and now it's 21. I don't see the point in putting in extra work to drop it to a 7 speed. If and only if it came with one chainring in the front it would make a lot of sense for you to argue the pointlessness of multiple chainrings in the front, unless you are saying there is a definite advantage to having fewer speeds.
wesnewell
100 GW
I've never installed a PAS system, but I always assumed the sensor would mount on the left side (opposite the chain ring side). And looking at my old installation manual for my yescomusa kit, that's where it shows it be installed.nlhaines said:
nlhaines
100 W
That would make more sense to me, but my bottom bracket cup is flush with the shell on the non-drive side so there's nowhere to mount the ring.wesnewell said:
If it were to mount there it would register forward pedaling as backwards and vice-versa.
wesnewell
100 GW
What kit do you have? Didn't you get an installation manual with it?
nlhaines
100 W
wesnewell said:
The kit is linked here: https://www.yescomusa.com/26in-Rear-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Kit-48v-1000w.html. It's the non-striped motor, 48V 1000W, LCD screen, comes with a disk brake.
It came with an instruction manual, but a terrible one. There isn't even an accurate pin out for the controller (I have two extra wires with 1 pin each, one male, one female, which are bound together that aren't mentioned). It says nothing about the issue of mounting the PAS. For $250 I'm still happy with the kit. If I putz around Home Depot long enough I'll figure out a solution for mounting the damn thing, or come to terms with going without it. It doesn't sound like pedal assist is all that great or useful anyway, but I wanted to try it out, and I've put enough effort into it that I don't want to give up now.
I also have no idea how to set the options on the LCD. I think I saw a youtube video of someone re-configuring the settings for different wheel diameters and such, but I can't find that video anymore.
wesnewell
100 GW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qBredUxdQE
Maybe this was it.
Maybe this was it.
nlhaines
100 W
wesnewell said:
YES!!! Thank you so much, that was the one.
