The question is wide.
Let's say I have been using a few controller at around 2kw - 14kw depening on what measurment you use to decide controller power.
My history of controllers:
Sabvoton 72150 + 50a extra flux is is the most powerful I have used I think. This controller has some kind of hall-sensor error after a few minutes ride 10-30 minutes and then stop working and needing a few hours cooldown which will not work. Oh. my car stopped working on the road I just park on the side waiting 3 hours before going to work... 95vx150+100a flux 450phase.
Lingbo-mc.com controller from a Super Soco TC modded with a shunt mod so at least 20-30% extra power. I feelt more but the original settings where 72v + 45A so about 2,5kw. Modded for high power it worked for a while giving out "current to high" errors. Scraping of some shunt mod juice I got it back to work better bit still with some small nuisances when riding.
Generic chinese 24fet Greetime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.
Generic Chinese 15fet Greentime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.
Gerneric Chinese 6fet Lyen expensive edition. Worked for 2 weeks then it decided to go in reverse. Died in the rain. Also it was sensorless. The best function with that controller, though,
Generic 500w. Worked. Sensorless funciton.
I'm looking for a new controller obviously and a few are at my feet. A original non-oem TC-max controller uping voltage and amperage to 88v and 80a I think. Shunt available and also modification of drivers setting via software.
Another option. A Votol em100, em150 or em200. Size of the 200 I guess is like 50cm or 25 inches so pretty large.
Vesc, vedder original version 72v x 100a with FOC or sensorless motor compatability. But I have had no esc in the past so I don't know more than they are very sensitive but how sensitive? Is it even an option? I'm not in the air flying so I won't die if the controller blows after a year. And that cost would be totally fine. saving 2000 dollars and paying 400 when it brakes down is fine then repeat if the controller really is "fly".
Let's say I have been using a few controller at around 2kw - 14kw depening on what measurment you use to decide controller power.
My history of controllers:
Sabvoton 72150 + 50a extra flux is is the most powerful I have used I think. This controller has some kind of hall-sensor error after a few minutes ride 10-30 minutes and then stop working and needing a few hours cooldown which will not work. Oh. my car stopped working on the road I just park on the side waiting 3 hours before going to work... 95vx150+100a flux 450phase.
Lingbo-mc.com controller from a Super Soco TC modded with a shunt mod so at least 20-30% extra power. I feelt more but the original settings where 72v + 45A so about 2,5kw. Modded for high power it worked for a while giving out "current to high" errors. Scraping of some shunt mod juice I got it back to work better bit still with some small nuisances when riding.
Generic chinese 24fet Greetime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.
Generic Chinese 15fet Greentime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.
Gerneric Chinese 6fet Lyen expensive edition. Worked for 2 weeks then it decided to go in reverse. Died in the rain. Also it was sensorless. The best function with that controller, though,
Generic 500w. Worked. Sensorless funciton.
I'm looking for a new controller obviously and a few are at my feet. A original non-oem TC-max controller uping voltage and amperage to 88v and 80a I think. Shunt available and also modification of drivers setting via software.
Another option. A Votol em100, em150 or em200. Size of the 200 I guess is like 50cm or 25 inches so pretty large.
Vesc, vedder original version 72v x 100a with FOC or sensorless motor compatability. But I have had no esc in the past so I don't know more than they are very sensitive but how sensitive? Is it even an option? I'm not in the air flying so I won't die if the controller blows after a year. And that cost would be totally fine. saving 2000 dollars and paying 400 when it brakes down is fine then repeat if the controller really is "fly".