Cycle Analyst V3 preview and first beta release

[Gab]

For a mid drive is it possible to hook up a hall signal wire to the PASS input wire from the CA to read motor RPM on a middrive on the CAV3 ?

Will the voltage and rpm values match ok to read direct of a hall sensor?

 

[MrDude_1]

Two CA questions...
What is the easiest way to extend the speedo sensor pickup wire on a CA V3 DP with external speedo?
What is the lowest profile mounting method for the CA?

I need to extend the wire... Do I cut it in the middle and extend it? open the CA and solder on an extension there? I have no problem soldering, but I was wondering what was the "normal" method...
as you can see, the speedo is JUST short of the brake rotor.. I was going to attach the magnet to the rotor.

For extending, I am cutting most of my throttle cable short.. so I was just going to reuse that wire...


The mount for the CA is tall for a scooter, I was thinking maybe there was a way to mount it lower, almost flat on the bar..
any good ideas? If there was a swivel or 90* clamp, I could mount it on the vertical pole and slide it down... but really I dont know whats available for clamps.
I also have to remember that this does fold down, so whatever I use, it shouldnt let the CA go "behind" the bar any further than the on/off button.. I dont want to ding it up when its folded, but I think most usable mounting methods would clear.

Zoomed in:

 

[NeilP]

Would not have said there was any particular best method for lengthening the wire. It is only two core,

I'd do it in the middle, simply because that is easier, and less chance of damaging something while soldering on the CA main PCB

As for mounting it, well, down to you and what ever you can find/ fabricate

 

[tomjasz]

I bought two. One for my BBS01 for an easy way to mortar and record battery use and data. Eventually it will go on my MXUS build. Sadlynthat wilt be very soon. The second was sold, my first Grin product sale, as Satiator and a CA3.

I purchased on for a demo bike I'm building. I got a great deal on a 9c clone by MXUS. XF39. It came with a Lyen 9FET 3770. I'm still confused about settings. I'd like to be as efficient as possible for battery use. Any suggestions for a staring point? Are the default settings OK to start?

Thanks,

Tom

(blown away at how easily the Satiator programs and am thrilled with Grin support. Truly amazing! I have a tough time grasping some concepts, but breeze through the satiator setup.)

 

[teklektik]

I'd like to be as efficient as possible for battery use. Any suggestions for a staring point? Are the default settings OK to start?

The CA is not going to materially improve your efficiency - it does lots of things, but that's not one of them.

Here are some primary features that the CA can give you that you may find useful for your demo bike:

1. reduced throttle dead zones (requires adjustment)
2. LVC battery protection (requires adjustment)
3. ramped throttle for easily controlled getaways (requires adjustment)
4. Current Throttle (in lieu of PassThru) for smoother, more controllable throttle response (requires adjustment)
5. PAS for throttle-free 'easy riding' -depends on bike and customer demographic (requires adjustment)

Depending on the bike, you might limit the top speed. I would leave the power setting at max and add a three-position switch to limit current for different riders/experience levels - again - requires adjustment (set Max Current to controller max or less). There are some things you can do to make mismatched battery/controller/motor play together more nicely, but if your bike has pretty well matched EV components, then there's no reason to look into those matters.

If you have a new controller and new V3, then they will simply plug together so the physical installation parts of the Guide pretty much go away. If you have a conventional hall throttle then the standard setting will pretty much work out of the box (to make the bike go - still may have dead zones). The default limits are set to max by default so the bike should operate at max ability without further adjustment. However, pretty much all of the cool stuff above that make the bike more manageable will require per-bike tuning.

I can assure you, if there was a way to make one-size-fits-all settings that worked for all riders and all bikes then it would have been done. The idea is not 'read' the Guide - it's to follow it step by step - do the 'mandatory' basic installation section, then any of the Advanced Feature sections that apply. If you do that, the setup is relatively simple and you will get bits of relevant information on each step as you go along.

The way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time...

 

[tomjasz]

The CA is not going to materially improve your efficiency - it does lots of things, but that's not one of them.

It can improve my understanding of the efficiencies. That's a huge feature. Thanks, that helped a lot. Maybe the most frustrating part is that, "my eyes are bigger than my stomach.." I want to move faster than the old brain will work. The unit I sold is in the hands of a youngster and he's already way out ahead of me in understanding the functions. Sadly he's half a continent away.

Thanks!

Tom

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Hello all,

I have bought a new controller.
I would like to use brake feature, but I have one problem.
The controller brake will only work if input is 12V (high).
CAv3 brake input is 5V?

Thank you!

 

[John Bozi]

Only thing that has happened recently that may have changed something is I rode through heavy rain. I had condensation under the screen on the next ride, but has gone now.

My speed reading doesn't work for about a third of the ride and the kms travelled as a result are incorrect too. It comes on and off for a while and then towards the end of the ride it kept working.

Any ideas what's happened?

Note I run two motors, one controller is connected to the ca gets everything right except AHs used. I used to think that the ca calculated AHs from voltage but soon learnt that it doesnt because it only shows me ah used for the controller connected to the ca...

thanks in advance

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Anyone has a idea? about my problem?
Thank you

 

[r3volved]

Hello all,

I have bought a new controller.
I would like to use brake feature, but I have one problem.
The controller brake will only work if input is 12V (high).
CAv3 brake input is 5V?

Thank you!

Hooking a 5v brake into the CA will override the controller brake function. ie. the CA will monitor the brake signal, not the controller. When the CA see's brake it cuts throttle to controller.

You should plug everything into the CA (if you can)

 

[teklektik]

Only thing that has happened recently that may have changed something is I rode through heavy rain. I had condensation under the screen on the next ride, but has gone now.

My speed reading doesn't work for about a third of the ride and the kms travelled as a result are incorrect too. It comes on and off for a while and then towards the end of the ride it kept working.

Any ideas what's happened?

You did not specify, but presumably you have a CA-DP hookup and are using the hall signal for speed sensing. If your CA PCB is now dry (normally happens because of venting through bottom openings), then you likely have a wet CA-DP connector. Unplug the CA and dry the connector (hair dryer or leave open overnight). Do not attempt to 'clean' the contacts with anything abrasive. Plug and unplug the connector a few times which should restore the hall connection.

If this is the problem, you may wish to disconnect the CA-DP connectors, wipe the contacts with a thin film of Permatex Dielectric Grease (auto parts stores), then re-assemble the connector.

Note I run two motors, one controller is connected to the ca gets everything right except AHs used. I used to think that the ca calculated AHs from voltage but soon learnt that it doesnt because it only shows me ah used for the controller connected to the ca...

I'm not sure if there is a question in there...

You can use a external shunt feeding both controllers to monitor overall current which will give you a proper Ah reading regarding total battery usage. However, using the CA throttle in anything but PassThru mode will be essentially impossible and PAS will be problematic as well (I don't think you have PAS, so no issue there). The difficulty is that Current Throttle, Power Throttle, and PAS Assist rely on the current reading and since a common external shunt will reflect current use for both motors, there is no good means to use information on the common current draw. If you have identical hub motors with the same size wheels, hooking the V3 for a single shared 2WD Current throttle is simple and very effective - everything works since each motor bears half the load and uses half the current. However, in your particular case you have two different motors, two different drive systems, and two different wheel sizes so you will need to forego the advantages of Current Throttle if you want to monitor current for both motors (make the Ah reading correct).

 

[teklektik]

I have bought a new controller.
I would like to use brake feature, but I have one problem.
The controller brake will only work if input is 12V (high).
CAv3 brake input is 5V?

The CA expects a simple NO (normally open) switch to assert the ebrake signal by bringing the ebrake input to Gnd. There is no external 5V signal - the 5V is an incidental result of the pull-up resistor on the ebrake input line to the CA 5V supply.

The business of hooking ebrakes to the CA and/or the controller is discussed in the Guide in sections:

• "3.4 Important Conflicts with Controller Features" and
• "5.3 eBrakes"

Presumably you want to use regen or some other feature that requires a controller ebrake connection as discussed in those sections. If you have not read those parts of the Guide, please do so to ensure that the controller connection is necessary.

If you need the controller connection, then:
It is unclear from your description what your controller expects for input (12V or Gnd to assert brakes?). Please identify which controller you are using and supply a PDF or link to the documentation so we can understand the actual electrical requirements of your controller ebrake input.

 

[John Bozi]

Thanks teklektik,

Yes sorry it is dp and will check and dry the connectors. The second part was just more info that may have helped in finding what is wrong. I don't think I will bother with an external shunt as my set up is pretty complex already with mid drive and hub motor, and just use my voltage as a gauge.

 

[cal3thousand]

The mount for the CA is tall for a scooter, I was thinking maybe there was a way to mount it lower, almost flat on the bar..
any good ideas?

You could use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Minoura-Handle-Space-Grips-Small/dp/B003AI3WX6

 

[justin_le]

For a mid drive is it possible to hook up a hall signal wire to the PASS input wire from the CA to read motor RPM on a middrive on the CAV3 ?

You can, making note though that the CA3 is expecting much lower RPM's and pulse frequency from the pedal sensor than from the hall based speedo sensor. As a result it works by measuring the time between adjacent PAS pulses rather than between the last full revolution of PAS pulses, and that means you'll have a more jitter in the RPM reading as result of unevenness in the motor hall sensor timing. Ideally you would set it to 1 PAS pole and have a single magnet and pickup (hall or reed switch) on the motor shaft, but for a few firmware implementations reasons the PAS sensor requires at least 2 poles to work.

Will the voltage and rpm values match ok to read direct of a hall sensor?

If your motor controller runs the halls at 5V then the voltages will be OK, if it pulls them up to 12V (unusual, but not unheard of) then you'll want to put a diode inline with the signal so that that this 12V can't get back to the CA. If you are expecting more than 1000 rpm from the motor, then I would recommend using a pickup not on the motor directly but after your gear reduction where the RPM is lower.

 

[Alan B]

I think all ebikes should have a run-kill switch near the handgrip like all motorcycles, scooters, mopeds, etc have. Then it is easy to turn the bike on, and off while keeping the hand on the grip. It is a safety issue. Putting it on the CA is not a good choice, it is too far from where the hands need to be.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Thanks for help all!

I have read the manual again it says: switching inputs (brake, reverse switch etc) to 12V will activate these inputs. So I a may assume 12V to ground (inputs) is active.
I will not use variable regenerative feature..

Thanks I will try too hook everything to CA3

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Hi all,

I have bought a used CA3 with external control board.

Here is cable layout.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=143124

I don't understand the two connectors (at right side upper corner) pin-outs/in.
I would like to use the outputs and inputs.
Where to do I have too hook up auto cruise and pot outputs?

Thank you very much! 8)

 

[tomjasz]

I think all ebikes should have a run-kill switch near the handgrip like all motorcycles, scooters, mopeds, etc have. Then it is easy to turn the bike on, and off while keeping the hand on the grip. It is a safety issue. Putting it on the CA is not a good choice, it is too far from where the hands need to be.

Never once used the switch on any PTW. It was debated to death on Modernvespa, but nonetheless, never used by me. I did add a switch to my current build, only because the shrink wrap battery had no switch, like my frame mount batts. I've got to busy of a handlebar setup to add another switch. Actually I hated the damn thing on my Vespa. I was forever bumping the switch to the off position when accessing the seat storage. Much adieu about nothing from my perspective. But I imagine for those who have the muscle memory from powered two wheelers it may be attractive. As I type I'm reminded how much I disliked it.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

I have CA v3 on/off switch is kinda kill switch right? (after connecting throttle to CA V3 ofcourse).

Also anyone has a idea for my question (see previous post).

Thank you

 

[MrDude_1]

The mount for the CA is tall for a scooter, I was thinking maybe there was a way to mount it lower, almost flat on the bar..
any good ideas?

You could use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Minoura-Handle-Space-Grips-Small/dp/B003AI3WX6

thanks..
I ended up drilling/tapping the bar and putting in a short stud so the CA can screw directly to it. Non-adjustible, but Its exactly where I want it. I doubt anyone riding a overpowered E-scooter will complain.

 

[teslanv]

Anyone know what limit flag this might be?



Not getting any throttle response. It has worked intermittently, but occasionally displays this symbol, and prevents the CA's throttle output signal from moving. Throttle input is working properly, so it's not the throttle itself.

 

[teklektik]

Hey T-
That is not a limit flag but the 'no-input' state of the indicator for PAS as described in "2.3.2 Status Screens" of the Guide (see paragraph 5c). PAS should have no effect on the throttle - rather, the other way around...

You appear to be running Current Throttle but the remainder of your config is unknown and probably needs a little tweak. Download your setup using the Setup Utility and attach to a post here so we can eyeball the details.

If you are not running Current Throttle, the 'A' Limit Flag might indicate a wonky AuxPot connection for a three speed switch that is limiting the effective PLim->MaxCurrent value to 0 -- or improperly set Aux->MinAuxIn/MaxAuxIn limits (assuming Aux->ScaleLim = AmpsLim).

 

[teslanv]

Yes, I am running Current throttle. I re-mapped the throttle output to 1.25V to 3.65V. Throttle Input is 0.83V to 4.23V.

I could swear I disabled the PAS. There is nothing plugged into the PAS connector on the CA.

 

[teklektik]

The indicator remains visible regardless of whether PAS or TRQ are disabled.

Although harmless, the bar graph is active if there is TRQ input even if Trq->SensrType = Disabled. (This is actually misstated in the Guide - more errata...) On the face of it this might seem confusing, but I can see the value in having a 'Human Watts' display even if actual motor assist is suppressed.

Please explain: 'worked intermittently' -- Throttle goes on and off during the same power-up state, throttle does not work at all occasionally after power-ups, etc?

Again, the setup file can answer many questions PDQ...