disclaimer: i wrote the whole first half a long time ago so its not so to update. if i would redo my build there is some stuff i would change. i didn't want to not post it bec i know i spent some time putting it together. to skip to the build and the issues i am having just scroll down till "now the build" or "issues"
please i need your help
Hello
After 4 months of reading and working through all the topics and threads i think I'm ready to build my first E-MTB. thank you everybody on this forum for all their handwork and time they gave. A lot of my build i took from other peoples designs and work, ill try to post who i got it from.
I will try my best to explain my build thoroughly and make it that other people can mix and match my build with theirs. It can be somewhat of a tutorial.
PRICE GOAL: $600 USD (i shopped around a lot to find the best deals)
first off, i chose a MTB instead of a regular long-board because i love the way it looks. MTB is most probably overkill for me but i love the massiveness.
PARTS LIST:
MBS atom 90 MTB (ATS trucks)
Flier 8S 120A Twin ESC
2- 55 tooth wheel sprockets
2- 11 tooth motor sprocket
#25H chain (159 links) with 2 master links
2- Tacon big foot 160 (245kv) Motor
Quanum 2.4Ghz remote & receiver
4- ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mah 3S1P 20C
3m- Turnigy 10awg wire black
3m- Turnigy 10awg wire red
1m- Turnigy 14awg wire black
1m- Turnigy 14awg wire red
1m- Wire Mesh Guard Black 10mm
1m- Wire Mesh Guard Black 8mm
10 pairs- 4mm gold bullet connectors
10 pairs- 6mm gold bullet connectors
5m- assorments of heatshrink
BOARD:
Any board would really work. i was at first looking for a board with a spring suspension but they were too expansive. the next down the line was the VECTOR trucks from MBS. But i read that the Vector trucks aren't so good for turning and have a poor turn radius. read this: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54203&start=50#p870998
so i got the ATS trucks. the cheapest but still work good!
I got my board off ebay. Some screws were missing but no problem because anyways i wanted to change out all the screws from Metric (thats what the board comes with) to standard size (as i live in the USA) so things would be easier.
ESC:
This being my first build i wanted to make sure i get a high quality ESC. i read that the flier/Alien ESC's are the top performer's and have been used ad tested with no almost no issues. it is one of the more expansive ESC's but i though for a first build it will make things easier.
Other ESC's on my mind:
Hobbyking 150amp 6s car: $58.84 USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...rushless_Car_ESC.html?strSearch=hobbyking 150
Hobbyking 120amp 6s boat: $42.59 USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...oat_ESC_4A_UBEC.html?strSearch=hobbyking 120a
Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro and XL2: pro-$125USD & xl2-$160USD
all these ESC's work just some have more testing than others and work slightly different.
There are plenty more ESC's on the market not just these so you got to choose whats best for you.
DRIVE ASSEMBLY:
I was looking for a assembly that would give me around 25-30mph but i was willing to rest with 20mph.
I am running dual motors which helps for torque but nevertheless i went with high-ish gear ratio of 1:5. i used a 55tooth wheel sprocket and 11tooth motor sprocket.
I wanted to keep the future open to other options of speed and torque so...the 55tooth is a middle number between the 44tooth and 68tooth gears so i was happy using that. I found motor gears of 14tooth all the way down to 9tooth. So with 14 i have a ratio of 1:3.9(high speed) and with the 9 it is 1:6.1. i dont think i will ever need more speed than the 14 or more torque than the 9. therefore i chose the 11 which is kinda in between. If i ever need to change it is just a motor sprocket away.
P.S. chooseing the gears was also based on my motor choice. (next)
i bought the motor gears and chain from Dirkdiggler. so thanks for that.
The wheel sprockets i got off ebay.
MOTOR:
There wasn't much reason in my choice. i chose the Tacon big foot 160 (245kv) Motor. i liked the fact that it was low on the kv which is good for torque yet not to low like a 190kv.
although there are also the classic SK3 motors that a lot of people are using but the Tacon only cost 55 with free shipping!! http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html
The SK3 motors in that price and spec range are:
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-245kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $60.22USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=18178
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5065-236kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $56.86USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=18126
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-215kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $60.93USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh ... duct=38747
Based on this i thought the Tacon was my best choice.
P.S. the Tacon motor has 3 male 4mm bullet connections and it comes with the female side as well in a bag with the mounting hardware. i cant say for the SK3 motors as i never got one.
MOTOR MOUNT:
For MTB:
dirkdigglers mounts which cammineet used: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55422
stuntmanmike: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55033
daverobson08: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54203
murfix: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=52390
theprodigyp: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57465
Vapology: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=51115
For longboard:
torqueboards: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54963
kkEdlund: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=56869
Alien mounts: http://alienpowersystem.com/
there are more!
I myself have a custom one but im not to proud of it.
hope to make a better one. i don't have any place around me like a waterjet or macine shop. pics in build.
TRANSMITTER AND RECEIVER:
there are several to choose from:
Wii nunchuck with arduino: people use it and seems good. tiny size! (future use?) topic: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57316&hilit=wii+nunchuck there is another topic or two on this but i cant find it. sorry.
hobbyking GT2B: $24.05USD this has been tested and used and runs good. however its big and not slip-in-the-pocketably. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=45311
Quanum: $21.16USD its a hit or miss. for some it worked perfectly and for others...read this- http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57180 HOWEVER its tiny and fits real good anywhere.
Ebay find by psychotiller: says it works great and so simple. http://www.ebay.com/itm/310649330414?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
there are also other remotes but they are more expansive and are not so small. a cool one that is big but neat is the FLYSKY GT3C: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3c-3ch-radio-lcd.html
BATTERIES:
there isn't much to say. it all depends on your build and preference.
MTB's usually use 6s and up. i like to use 2, 3s batteries just in case if one gets ruined ill save some money on replacements.
regular boards use 4s and up. so ya.
regarding the C rating, i believe that 20C should be good enough for all boards as it can give up too 100amps.
i just chose zippy flightmax bec they are the cheapest of the 3s 5000Mah lipo's. that's it.
FOR BEGINNERS: BE CAREFUL WITH LIPO'S THEY ARE DANGEROUS.
you can always go custom and build a Li-ion or LiFePo pack which is great and safer but could be expansive. (future upgrade?)
CONNECTORS & WIRES:
I am using 10awg for the main wiring to the ESC and motor and using the 14awg for charging. for the main wires you could use 12awg but i went on the safe side and used 10awg as the price difference isn't much at all. 14awg for charging is more than enough and it is cheaper than 10awg and since i needed it to fit a XT-60 connector(I'll explain later) it was ideal over the 10awg.
For connnectors you could use: EC5, Bullet, XT-90, XT-60(less amp builds). i chose 6mm bullets for the fact that they fit the 10awg wire easily and could hold the amperage, plus they are way cheaper than EC5's or XT-90. problem is bullets are more prone to shorting with other bullets as there is no actual cover but you can fix that in many ways. (add some electrical tape, make shift protection case...ill show some pics)
here is where the 4mm bullets come in: the batteries i got come with 4mm bullets so instead of cutting them(watch out for shorting the battery!) and soldering on new connections i bought 4mm bullets to plug on to them. problem is 10awg doesn't fit in 4mm bullets! 10awg wire is 5.5mm thick! so that's also where the 14awg comes in. i will cut a tiny piece of 14awg wire solder it on the 10awg and then solder that 14awg tip that is on the 10awg wire into the 4mm bullet. phew! btw the same thing will be on the motor connection which is also 4mm bullet.
OTHER STUFF:
You will also need a case or cover for your electronics. http://www.polycase.com/ or http://www.radioshack.com/home/index.jsp are good. check http://www.ebay.com/ also. heatshrink also dont forget.
There are a bunch of other stuff that are not a must get but are useful read around and you'll see it all.
NOW THE BUILD
As you guys all read, I am useing a MBS MT-B with ATS trucks.
I'll start with the wiring of the batteries ,ESC, and Motor.
BATTERIES:
I got 4 - 3s 5000mah lipos. Run in series for 6s 10,000mah. Charge them in 3s 20,000mah. Buying smaller packs and running them togather might not be the best way. It does come out a little cheaper and if a cell gets killed its a cheaper fix but there is a lot more wiring involved and takes double time to charge.
Since I'am using 4- 3s 5000mah lipo i made a wire harness with some switches that would let me charge the batteries without every taking them out.
both pictures are the same circuit just one has no extra connectors.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41a68kvoov1gzbh/aWF-Kz8dbt
1)first i used a "X" harness to put 2- 3s 5000Mah in parallel to give me a 3s 10,000mah total.
2)then i ran one side of the "X" in series with the other 3s group to give me 6s 10,000mah to power the ESC.
3)the other side of the "X" runs the 2 groups of 3s in parallel to the charger so its like a 3s 20,000mah battery.
ok here is where im unsure: i know if i power the esc everything will be ok(no shorts...etc.) but when i charge it im not sure if the power will back up into the ESC as it is still connected and also the power will go through the series harness causing problems.
my possiable solution:
1)on the ESC side: i have the anti-spark on the black wire (negative) so i will be adding a small switch on that. i will also used a EC5 connector for a "KEY" on the main black wire.( I don't know of it is just me but the EC5 connector is very hard to take off and put on) i will also add a bigger switch for the red wire of the ESC(doesn't have to be a "KEY" as someone posted there is only a "float" if you add a switch to the negative side).
2)on the series harness i added a another Switch or a "KEY".
like this everything will be disconnected while charging. i know its a lot of switches and such but it might even look cooler!
im really young and don't have a degree in any thing, so im going on just what i know. if someone could confirm this and we are i business!
pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k3d6afsu81z2g69/AAC2g4DGaRXpUa4G6QuN6MFDa?dl=0
Switchs:
I put a key on the black wire going to the ESC and a switch on the anti-spark. I'm adding a switch to the red wire going to the ESC as well.
Here is we're I went wrong I also needed to put a switch on one end of the charging cables. I relized this when I got the massive shock. It literally ate through the metal! To solve this I made the connector that connects the batteries in series into a toggle switch on the black side of the charger. The red charging wire I fused with a 10 amp switch just in case. It's very hard to explain look at the pictures.
GEARS, etc.:
I am useing a 55 tooth sprocket and a 11 tooth sprocket. All with a #25 chain. (thanks dirkdiggler)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uoeuz9m6767sw8k/AACF_mS5PS6-2NSHBhlwU7WAa?dl=0
MOTOR & MOTOR MOUNT:
Useing the TACON 245kv motor. Really good looking and very powerful!
I am useing a 1/4in thick metal for all mounting parts. A angled piece(2.5 x 1.5 inches) a flat piece(4 x 5 inch) and a small spacer piece(about 1 inch)
I used a angled piece first to connect to the brake hole and drilled 4 holes into the upright side. I took the flat piece made those same 4 holes calculating where the motor will be in mind.
I had to raise the flat piece a bit so the motor shaft stays clear of the wheel. I also had to turn the angle piece with the upright part farther from the wheel bec they were banging into the wheels lock-nuts.
Since I had to turn it the motors shaft was a little short so I added the spacer piece to move the motor a little closer which was perfect.
I honestly don't know what metal I have but it's heavy and strong!! Thing is I live in a place where there is no machine shops close to me at all. So I couldn't find metal thick enough. Luckly my neighbor was doing constructionand he had a iron shop stop by for some work and I asked him for the metal I needed. And he had them exactly like I needed in his scrap metal box!!! He even gave them to me for free!! Thing was I forgot to ask him what it was bec after honestly 2 monthes of looking for the metal I finally got it!! It weighs a lot so it's either steel or something else.
However that night when I tried to drill it...I got no where it was as hard as a rock! I tried every type of metal bit with drilling oil and all the stuff( I searched online) but nothing worked. After another month in the dark I finally found out my dad's good Freind used to make parts for factories!! I asked him and he did again for free! Finally got all the parts and drilled. I did forget to ask him to slot the holes but whatever it worked it anyway!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ebrbj1fxm4rq9r0/AADAXUvvsZiP-IGS0hO3O5-Oa?dl=0
ESC:
8s 120amp TWIN ESC.
These are my settings:
Throttle: reverse off
Brake: 30% (might raise it)
LVC: 3.6v (lowering to 3.4v)
Start power: soft ( think I might change it to medium)
Power limit: right now it's at 50% as I am just learning but will knock it up
Motor timing: 20% no clue how to know what to put it on.
Throttle curve: linear
originally was using flier software but i am now trying aliens software
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c6kr8ldua8ayxra/AABrKdW8vys5SmaVOGXdaFtva?dl=0
Cases:
I made my own case for the ESC and used a metal part from a old TV to store the batteries as it was the perfect size. The cover i made my self as we'll useing a old computer case side and spray painted black.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5b60lkzq79dcz7r/AAAzQGLeQWnwal6v1jLRCRLha?dl=0
Design:
I wanted it to be a low profile and compact design. I put the battery case in between my feet it is only 2 x 8 in. It is drilled into the board with 2 screws. The cover snaps down on the 4 taps sticking up for quick yet tight cover. I have the switches sticking out the ends which I cut holes for in the cover.
The ESC box was made out of thin steel from a old garbage can! It's 3.5 x 5 inches. I drilled 2 holes for the battery wires and I made a slot on the back for the motor wires. The Box is mounted on the back of the board with the same screws that the trucks are screwed in.
The wires will be covered in black wire mesh. they run over the bindings and will be tied down with zip-ties.
totally not done with the looks of the board but i have a lot of issues that need to be fixed first.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x9uva6fnp5z6k60/AAB9uPQsN4b3x5TpvcvwPaSFa?dl=0
ISSUES:
YOU GUYS DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH FRUSTRATION I AM GOING THROUGH. :x
the ESC gets hot way to fast i am contacting flier to solve this issue.
my charger broke so had to buy a new one. got the IMAX B6 genuine this took a month *SOLVED*
now the receiver is broken. https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzqbmlhmgk6f7u6/Video Oct 07, 9 48 40 PM.mp4?dl=0 *SOLVED*
i legit can't see straight. so i cant tell if the motor gear and wheel ear are straight even after i put the chain on i still cant tell. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w5jmt55643y43m7/AACrWJZLN24qIDWHbsAnLutza?dl=0
the actual wheel sprocket doesn't spin straight. i think that could be either bec of the wheel wobble or bec i drilled the sprockets bad.
the chain tension is different between the 2 wheels even they they are the same length chain. i forgot to make slots for the motor mount so i have to wait another month for that https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8jaapkj2ayhhyv7/AABtUjAMZ2QhGKP44f9DzIFOa?dl=0
sometimes only one motor connects and not the other.
ill post some other problems later these are the main ones. but a lot of these issues cause other issues as well.
stats:
the board doesn't have more than 10 miles on it.
i barely rode on grass mainly pavement with slight inclines and declines.
i don't have any amp draw or anything like that. but i need to get.
one video; https://www.dropbox.com/s/f4p8j3vq3cj85lp/Video Sep 03, 3 09 11 PM.mov?dl=0
at the end it all costed me $650 with a million headaces
if you have any qu or request or suggestion please do ask! i need all the help i can get. if you also dont understand something let me know.
please i need your help
Hello
After 4 months of reading and working through all the topics and threads i think I'm ready to build my first E-MTB. thank you everybody on this forum for all their handwork and time they gave. A lot of my build i took from other peoples designs and work, ill try to post who i got it from.
I will try my best to explain my build thoroughly and make it that other people can mix and match my build with theirs. It can be somewhat of a tutorial.
PRICE GOAL: $600 USD (i shopped around a lot to find the best deals)
first off, i chose a MTB instead of a regular long-board because i love the way it looks. MTB is most probably overkill for me but i love the massiveness.
PARTS LIST:
MBS atom 90 MTB (ATS trucks)
Flier 8S 120A Twin ESC
2- 55 tooth wheel sprockets
2- 11 tooth motor sprocket
#25H chain (159 links) with 2 master links
2- Tacon big foot 160 (245kv) Motor
Quanum 2.4Ghz remote & receiver
4- ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mah 3S1P 20C
3m- Turnigy 10awg wire black
3m- Turnigy 10awg wire red
1m- Turnigy 14awg wire black
1m- Turnigy 14awg wire red
1m- Wire Mesh Guard Black 10mm
1m- Wire Mesh Guard Black 8mm
10 pairs- 4mm gold bullet connectors
10 pairs- 6mm gold bullet connectors
5m- assorments of heatshrink
BOARD:
Any board would really work. i was at first looking for a board with a spring suspension but they were too expansive. the next down the line was the VECTOR trucks from MBS. But i read that the Vector trucks aren't so good for turning and have a poor turn radius. read this: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54203&start=50#p870998
so i got the ATS trucks. the cheapest but still work good!
I got my board off ebay. Some screws were missing but no problem because anyways i wanted to change out all the screws from Metric (thats what the board comes with) to standard size (as i live in the USA) so things would be easier.
ESC:
This being my first build i wanted to make sure i get a high quality ESC. i read that the flier/Alien ESC's are the top performer's and have been used ad tested with no almost no issues. it is one of the more expansive ESC's but i though for a first build it will make things easier.
Other ESC's on my mind:
Hobbyking 150amp 6s car: $58.84 USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...rushless_Car_ESC.html?strSearch=hobbyking 150
Hobbyking 120amp 6s boat: $42.59 USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...oat_ESC_4A_UBEC.html?strSearch=hobbyking 120a
Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro and XL2: pro-$125USD & xl2-$160USD
all these ESC's work just some have more testing than others and work slightly different.
There are plenty more ESC's on the market not just these so you got to choose whats best for you.
DRIVE ASSEMBLY:
I was looking for a assembly that would give me around 25-30mph but i was willing to rest with 20mph.
I am running dual motors which helps for torque but nevertheless i went with high-ish gear ratio of 1:5. i used a 55tooth wheel sprocket and 11tooth motor sprocket.
I wanted to keep the future open to other options of speed and torque so...the 55tooth is a middle number between the 44tooth and 68tooth gears so i was happy using that. I found motor gears of 14tooth all the way down to 9tooth. So with 14 i have a ratio of 1:3.9(high speed) and with the 9 it is 1:6.1. i dont think i will ever need more speed than the 14 or more torque than the 9. therefore i chose the 11 which is kinda in between. If i ever need to change it is just a motor sprocket away.
P.S. chooseing the gears was also based on my motor choice. (next)
i bought the motor gears and chain from Dirkdiggler. so thanks for that.
The wheel sprockets i got off ebay.
MOTOR:
There wasn't much reason in my choice. i chose the Tacon big foot 160 (245kv) Motor. i liked the fact that it was low on the kv which is good for torque yet not to low like a 190kv.
although there are also the classic SK3 motors that a lot of people are using but the Tacon only cost 55 with free shipping!! http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html
The SK3 motors in that price and spec range are:
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-245kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $60.22USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=18178
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5065-236kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $56.86USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=18126
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6354-215kv Brushless Outrunner Motor: $60.93USD http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh ... duct=38747
Based on this i thought the Tacon was my best choice.
P.S. the Tacon motor has 3 male 4mm bullet connections and it comes with the female side as well in a bag with the mounting hardware. i cant say for the SK3 motors as i never got one.
MOTOR MOUNT:
For MTB:
dirkdigglers mounts which cammineet used: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55422
stuntmanmike: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55033
daverobson08: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54203
murfix: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=52390
theprodigyp: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57465
Vapology: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=51115
For longboard:
torqueboards: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=54963
kkEdlund: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=56869
Alien mounts: http://alienpowersystem.com/
there are more!
I myself have a custom one but im not to proud of it.
hope to make a better one. i don't have any place around me like a waterjet or macine shop. pics in build.TRANSMITTER AND RECEIVER:
there are several to choose from:
Wii nunchuck with arduino: people use it and seems good. tiny size! (future use?) topic: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57316&hilit=wii+nunchuck there is another topic or two on this but i cant find it. sorry.
hobbyking GT2B: $24.05USD this has been tested and used and runs good. however its big and not slip-in-the-pocketably. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=45311
Quanum: $21.16USD its a hit or miss. for some it worked perfectly and for others...read this- http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57180 HOWEVER its tiny and fits real good anywhere.
Ebay find by psychotiller: says it works great and so simple. http://www.ebay.com/itm/310649330414?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
there are also other remotes but they are more expansive and are not so small. a cool one that is big but neat is the FLYSKY GT3C: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3c-3ch-radio-lcd.html
BATTERIES:
there isn't much to say. it all depends on your build and preference.
MTB's usually use 6s and up. i like to use 2, 3s batteries just in case if one gets ruined ill save some money on replacements.
regular boards use 4s and up. so ya.
regarding the C rating, i believe that 20C should be good enough for all boards as it can give up too 100amps.
i just chose zippy flightmax bec they are the cheapest of the 3s 5000Mah lipo's. that's it.
FOR BEGINNERS: BE CAREFUL WITH LIPO'S THEY ARE DANGEROUS.
you can always go custom and build a Li-ion or LiFePo pack which is great and safer but could be expansive. (future upgrade?)
CONNECTORS & WIRES:
I am using 10awg for the main wiring to the ESC and motor and using the 14awg for charging. for the main wires you could use 12awg but i went on the safe side and used 10awg as the price difference isn't much at all. 14awg for charging is more than enough and it is cheaper than 10awg and since i needed it to fit a XT-60 connector(I'll explain later) it was ideal over the 10awg.
For connnectors you could use: EC5, Bullet, XT-90, XT-60(less amp builds). i chose 6mm bullets for the fact that they fit the 10awg wire easily and could hold the amperage, plus they are way cheaper than EC5's or XT-90. problem is bullets are more prone to shorting with other bullets as there is no actual cover but you can fix that in many ways. (add some electrical tape, make shift protection case...ill show some pics)
here is where the 4mm bullets come in: the batteries i got come with 4mm bullets so instead of cutting them(watch out for shorting the battery!) and soldering on new connections i bought 4mm bullets to plug on to them. problem is 10awg doesn't fit in 4mm bullets! 10awg wire is 5.5mm thick! so that's also where the 14awg comes in. i will cut a tiny piece of 14awg wire solder it on the 10awg and then solder that 14awg tip that is on the 10awg wire into the 4mm bullet. phew! btw the same thing will be on the motor connection which is also 4mm bullet.
OTHER STUFF:
You will also need a case or cover for your electronics. http://www.polycase.com/ or http://www.radioshack.com/home/index.jsp are good. check http://www.ebay.com/ also. heatshrink also dont forget.
There are a bunch of other stuff that are not a must get but are useful read around and you'll see it all.
NOW THE BUILD
As you guys all read, I am useing a MBS MT-B with ATS trucks.
I'll start with the wiring of the batteries ,ESC, and Motor.
BATTERIES:
I got 4 - 3s 5000mah lipos. Run in series for 6s 10,000mah. Charge them in 3s 20,000mah. Buying smaller packs and running them togather might not be the best way. It does come out a little cheaper and if a cell gets killed its a cheaper fix but there is a lot more wiring involved and takes double time to charge.
Since I'am using 4- 3s 5000mah lipo i made a wire harness with some switches that would let me charge the batteries without every taking them out.
both pictures are the same circuit just one has no extra connectors.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41a68kvoov1gzbh/aWF-Kz8dbt
1)first i used a "X" harness to put 2- 3s 5000Mah in parallel to give me a 3s 10,000mah total.
2)then i ran one side of the "X" in series with the other 3s group to give me 6s 10,000mah to power the ESC.
3)the other side of the "X" runs the 2 groups of 3s in parallel to the charger so its like a 3s 20,000mah battery.
ok here is where im unsure: i know if i power the esc everything will be ok(no shorts...etc.) but when i charge it im not sure if the power will back up into the ESC as it is still connected and also the power will go through the series harness causing problems.
my possiable solution:
1)on the ESC side: i have the anti-spark on the black wire (negative) so i will be adding a small switch on that. i will also used a EC5 connector for a "KEY" on the main black wire.( I don't know of it is just me but the EC5 connector is very hard to take off and put on) i will also add a bigger switch for the red wire of the ESC(doesn't have to be a "KEY" as someone posted there is only a "float" if you add a switch to the negative side).
2)on the series harness i added a another Switch or a "KEY".
like this everything will be disconnected while charging. i know its a lot of switches and such but it might even look cooler!
im really young and don't have a degree in any thing, so im going on just what i know. if someone could confirm this and we are i business!
pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k3d6afsu81z2g69/AAC2g4DGaRXpUa4G6QuN6MFDa?dl=0
Switchs:
I put a key on the black wire going to the ESC and a switch on the anti-spark. I'm adding a switch to the red wire going to the ESC as well.
Here is we're I went wrong I also needed to put a switch on one end of the charging cables. I relized this when I got the massive shock. It literally ate through the metal! To solve this I made the connector that connects the batteries in series into a toggle switch on the black side of the charger. The red charging wire I fused with a 10 amp switch just in case. It's very hard to explain look at the pictures.
GEARS, etc.:
I am useing a 55 tooth sprocket and a 11 tooth sprocket. All with a #25 chain. (thanks dirkdiggler)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uoeuz9m6767sw8k/AACF_mS5PS6-2NSHBhlwU7WAa?dl=0
MOTOR & MOTOR MOUNT:
Useing the TACON 245kv motor. Really good looking and very powerful!
I am useing a 1/4in thick metal for all mounting parts. A angled piece(2.5 x 1.5 inches) a flat piece(4 x 5 inch) and a small spacer piece(about 1 inch)
I used a angled piece first to connect to the brake hole and drilled 4 holes into the upright side. I took the flat piece made those same 4 holes calculating where the motor will be in mind.
I had to raise the flat piece a bit so the motor shaft stays clear of the wheel. I also had to turn the angle piece with the upright part farther from the wheel bec they were banging into the wheels lock-nuts.
Since I had to turn it the motors shaft was a little short so I added the spacer piece to move the motor a little closer which was perfect.
I honestly don't know what metal I have but it's heavy and strong!! Thing is I live in a place where there is no machine shops close to me at all. So I couldn't find metal thick enough. Luckly my neighbor was doing constructionand he had a iron shop stop by for some work and I asked him for the metal I needed. And he had them exactly like I needed in his scrap metal box!!! He even gave them to me for free!! Thing was I forgot to ask him what it was bec after honestly 2 monthes of looking for the metal I finally got it!! It weighs a lot so it's either steel or something else.
However that night when I tried to drill it...I got no where it was as hard as a rock! I tried every type of metal bit with drilling oil and all the stuff( I searched online) but nothing worked. After another month in the dark I finally found out my dad's good Freind used to make parts for factories!! I asked him and he did again for free! Finally got all the parts and drilled. I did forget to ask him to slot the holes but whatever it worked it anyway!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ebrbj1fxm4rq9r0/AADAXUvvsZiP-IGS0hO3O5-Oa?dl=0
ESC:
8s 120amp TWIN ESC.
These are my settings:
Throttle: reverse off
Brake: 30% (might raise it)
LVC: 3.6v (lowering to 3.4v)
Start power: soft ( think I might change it to medium)
Power limit: right now it's at 50% as I am just learning but will knock it up
Motor timing: 20% no clue how to know what to put it on.
Throttle curve: linear
originally was using flier software but i am now trying aliens software
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c6kr8ldua8ayxra/AABrKdW8vys5SmaVOGXdaFtva?dl=0
Cases:
I made my own case for the ESC and used a metal part from a old TV to store the batteries as it was the perfect size. The cover i made my self as we'll useing a old computer case side and spray painted black.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5b60lkzq79dcz7r/AAAzQGLeQWnwal6v1jLRCRLha?dl=0
Design:
I wanted it to be a low profile and compact design. I put the battery case in between my feet it is only 2 x 8 in. It is drilled into the board with 2 screws. The cover snaps down on the 4 taps sticking up for quick yet tight cover. I have the switches sticking out the ends which I cut holes for in the cover.
The ESC box was made out of thin steel from a old garbage can! It's 3.5 x 5 inches. I drilled 2 holes for the battery wires and I made a slot on the back for the motor wires. The Box is mounted on the back of the board with the same screws that the trucks are screwed in.
The wires will be covered in black wire mesh. they run over the bindings and will be tied down with zip-ties.
totally not done with the looks of the board but i have a lot of issues that need to be fixed first.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x9uva6fnp5z6k60/AAB9uPQsN4b3x5TpvcvwPaSFa?dl=0
ISSUES:
YOU GUYS DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH FRUSTRATION I AM GOING THROUGH. :x
the ESC gets hot way to fast i am contacting flier to solve this issue.
my charger broke so had to buy a new one. got the IMAX B6 genuine this took a month *SOLVED*
now the receiver is broken. https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzqbmlhmgk6f7u6/Video Oct 07, 9 48 40 PM.mp4?dl=0 *SOLVED*
i legit can't see straight. so i cant tell if the motor gear and wheel ear are straight even after i put the chain on i still cant tell. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w5jmt55643y43m7/AACrWJZLN24qIDWHbsAnLutza?dl=0
the actual wheel sprocket doesn't spin straight. i think that could be either bec of the wheel wobble or bec i drilled the sprockets bad.
the chain tension is different between the 2 wheels even they they are the same length chain. i forgot to make slots for the motor mount so i have to wait another month for that https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8jaapkj2ayhhyv7/AABtUjAMZ2QhGKP44f9DzIFOa?dl=0
sometimes only one motor connects and not the other.
ill post some other problems later these are the main ones. but a lot of these issues cause other issues as well.
stats:
the board doesn't have more than 10 miles on it.
i barely rode on grass mainly pavement with slight inclines and declines.
i don't have any amp draw or anything like that. but i need to get.
one video; https://www.dropbox.com/s/f4p8j3vq3cj85lp/Video Sep 03, 3 09 11 PM.mov?dl=0
at the end it all costed me $650 with a million headaces
if you have any qu or request or suggestion please do ask! i need all the help i can get. if you also dont understand something let me know.
