Link
1 MW
albie said:
I concur. We're here if you need us
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Duct Tape E-Bay Lifepo4s???
- Thread starter Johnbear
- Start date
I concur. We're here if you need us
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G'day JBomb !
1st.. welcome to the clan ! 8)
2nd.. very important to know what the controller in that kit will take from the battery pack in Amps.
The 10ah pack.. is happy at 10 amps or less.. 20 amps if you absolutely have to.. but the newer WE kits etc have 40 amp controllers.. and this would be too much....
Can you link us to the exact kit you plan to buy ?
1st.. welcome to the clan ! 8)
2nd.. very important to know what the controller in that kit will take from the battery pack in Amps.
The 10ah pack.. is happy at 10 amps or less.. 20 amps if you absolutely have to.. but the newer WE kits etc have 40 amp controllers.. and this would be too much....
Can you link us to the exact kit you plan to buy ?
iberkt
10 W
Pictures please!Brucey said:Yeah guys, I just got mine running tonight. I have it in my stealth and am pretty much willing to call the stealth a doen deal.
Could you put a post of the mods on your stealth in the scooter section? I'd like to see how you got the batts to fit and stuff like that.
Link said:
There's a cheap workaround for this problem. You can place a high current diode across each pack so that when either one trips, the FETs only see the voltage from one pack, not both.
albie
100 W
a bit ambigious there fechter...
what is this high current diode you speak of as i'm really interested to check this out.
what is this high current diode you speak of as i'm really interested to check this out.
Ypedal said:
Thanks for all the info guys, I think I will go ahead with the battery.
As for the kit I will be using its from http://www.ampedbikes.com witch I'm told is a north america Goldenmotor reseller.
Also a few others have used this kit and had good reviews of it on another ebike forum.
Hi all
did my first full test on my ping 48v 20ah.
I've made a "rolling road" for my trike, basically it consists of two rollers in a heavy steel frame designed for use with motobikes,this is attached to the frame of the trike to stop it from moving out from underneath the rear wheel.
I set the motor going and left it to run flat drawing about 250w (not a lot but more load than freewheeling) the bms cut in at 19.5Ah, the trip meter was reading 80 miles speed was 10 mph, motor was running at 50v 5a no readings were taken during the run.
did my first full test on my ping 48v 20ah.
I've made a "rolling road" for my trike, basically it consists of two rollers in a heavy steel frame designed for use with motobikes,this is attached to the frame of the trike to stop it from moving out from underneath the rear wheel.
I set the motor going and left it to run flat drawing about 250w (not a lot but more load than freewheeling) the bms cut in at 19.5Ah, the trip meter was reading 80 miles speed was 10 mph, motor was running at 50v 5a no readings were taken during the run.
kbarrett
10 kW
jbomb said:
That kit is missing a torque arm ... a serious omission on a front hub kit.
You will need to buy one ready made, or make one out of a 10mm open end wrench.
OneEye
100 W
Yup, that's a Goldenmotor 36V/500W brushless kit being resold with some extra goodies by Danny Ray. I think he had 1,000 or so of the kits shipped to him and is reselling them in his local area and online.
Link
1 MW
fechter said:
Ah, yes. I knew I was forgetting a few things
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Johnbear
10 kW
OneEye said:
Heres a rear golden motor with a 36v 15ah duct tape pack.
albie
100 W
in the other ebay lifepo4 for noobs thread... fechter mentions a high current diode...
All i could google up was this...
http://www.globalspec.com/FeaturedProducts/Detail/HVComponentsCKE/High_Voltage_High_Current_Diode/11738/0
is that right??? i don't even know how you would hook that up?!
Link said:fechter said:
Ah, yes. I knew I was forgetting a few things
All i could google up was this...
http://www.globalspec.com/FeaturedProducts/Detail/HVComponentsCKE/High_Voltage_High_Current_Diode/11738/0
is that right??? i don't even know how you would hook that up?!
Jeremy Harris
100 MW
Sounds pretty good, Geoff, with a useable capacity that's close to the theoretical capacity.
The cells in the packs from Li Ping are actually 4.95 Ah each, apparently, so your 48V 20 Ah pack will be a 16S 4P, with a theoretical capacity of 19.8 Ah. To get 19.5 Ah from it under real test conditions is pretty good going, especially as the BMS almost certainly plays it safe and cuts off a little early.
I see that Ping says in his instructions that these packs need a few cycles to reach full capacity, how much use has your pack had?
It could well be that it might get even better after a few more cycles.
Jeremy
The cells in the packs from Li Ping are actually 4.95 Ah each, apparently, so your 48V 20 Ah pack will be a 16S 4P, with a theoretical capacity of 19.8 Ah. To get 19.5 Ah from it under real test conditions is pretty good going, especially as the BMS almost certainly plays it safe and cuts off a little early.
I see that Ping says in his instructions that these packs need a few cycles to reach full capacity, how much use has your pack had?
It could well be that it might get even better after a few more cycles.
Jeremy
SniperGaulois
10 kW
I DO NOT recommend buying from these people, i repead.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND these people.. but knowing this might help some of you decide what's best and what's not...
$439 or a battery that costs about $1000 elsewhere, it is well constructed, lighter than yesa, recharges perfectly, no import tax... hey I will reconsider the next time if they are just making a quick buck with Gebattery
$439 or a battery that costs about $1000 elsewhere, it is well constructed, lighter than yesa, recharges perfectly, no import tax... hey I will reconsider the next time if they are just making a quick buck with Gebattery
what do you mean zzoing I thought you liked these packszzoing said:I DO NOT recommend buying from these people, i repead.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND these people.. but knowing this might help some of you decide what's best and what's not...
$439 or a battery that costs about $1000 elsewhere, it is well constructed, lighter than yesa, recharges perfectly, no import tax... hey I will reconsider the next time if they are just making a quick buck with Gebattery
MicroRacer
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2008
- Messages
- 11
This e***e bidder has got to be someone just driving the price up. I got my Ping 24V 20Ah battery for $251. The next Ping 24V 20AH battery had e***e as the high bidder at $320. Mysteriously toward the end of the auction e***e dropped his high amount down (was $400) below the $320 leaving the other high bidder to get the battery.
If it were me I wouldn't bid on anything with *** in his ebay logon. He is just there to drive the price up. For this $24V 20AH battery pack e***e had a max of $400 in as his bid amount. I believe no matter where the bidding stopped he would have reduced his bid amount at the end of the auction to make sure that he didn't end up with the battery pack. This type of auctioneering is against eBay rules and is grounds for getting banned. If this is Ping doing this than he is playing a dangerous game. His good reputation could be gone in an instant especially with the way that news on the internet travels.
If it were me I wouldn't bid on anything with *** in his ebay logon. He is just there to drive the price up. For this $24V 20AH battery pack e***e had a max of $400 in as his bid amount. I believe no matter where the bidding stopped he would have reduced his bid amount at the end of the auction to make sure that he didn't end up with the battery pack. This type of auctioneering is against eBay rules and is grounds for getting banned. If this is Ping doing this than he is playing a dangerous game. His good reputation could be gone in an instant especially with the way that news on the internet travels.
TylerDurden
100 GW
Good post, MR. I suggest bidders reading this should bid only about $250 (or less) and watch the activity until the auction ends. Clearly Ping will sell at $250, if that's all he can get.MicroRacer said:
8)
MicroRacer
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2008
- Messages
- 11
I just may be totally out to lunch. I just read this on eBay.
Who knows why some ebay usernames are listed and others have the ***. I have yet to see a *** be the winning bidder on any of these battery packs.
Who knows why some ebay usernames are listed and others have the ***. I have yet to see a *** be the winning bidder on any of these battery packs.
stevero2001
1 W
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2008
- Messages
- 53
MicroRacer said:
It only changes to the real name after someone wins. That's how they hide the names during bidding.
I just got an email from new journey. His (her?) real name is Liying. He asked me what size I wanted. I told him 36V x 20Ah with a trip current of 35A. He responded, did I want a 36.35 battery? I told him no, and repeated his ebay specs, except the size which he had listed as 150x110x210 mm.
In other words, he listed 36V 20Ah with size=150x110x210 mm, but ping and anna would list 150x110x280 mm for a 36V 20Ah. Usually, 150x110x210 mm goes with 36V 15Ah, so either he typed the wrong specs, for battery size, or I am really getting a 36V 15Ah battery. I guess I'll find out what I have when it gets here. He seemed confused when I asked for a 36V 20Ah with size 150x110x280 mm.
I think the biggest probelm with new_journey and anna is there is a language barrier, and they just don't understand english very well. I don't think they are trying to be deceptive. When you send them an email, you need to keep it simple, or they get totally confused.
TylerDurden
100 GW
The Sellers and Winners are unmasked, the rest are not.
It does look like e**e is a shill... it takes advantage of the automatic bidding system to bump the other bidder to the max.
Looking at the history of Pings completed auctions, he can sell up to four packs a day. I would not bid more than the opening amount and see what happens.
It does look like e**e is a shill... it takes advantage of the automatic bidding system to bump the other bidder to the max.
Looking at the history of Pings completed auctions, he can sell up to four packs a day. I would not bid more than the opening amount and see what happens.
stevero2001
1 W
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2008
- Messages
- 53
albie said:
Albie,
What you need is a high current diode with a voltage greater than your pack voltage. I would probably go for a 40A 100V diode. Go to http://www.mouser.com and search for diode 40A 100v. This should give you alot of options. Most of the high power diodes are 3 pin devices with two back to back diodes in them.
Here is one I found at mouser:
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/8613.pdf
For each pack, tie the A1 and A2 together, and connect to the minus terminal. Connect the K of diode to the plus terminal. I believe this is correct. Please correct me if I'm wrong. This diode has a leakage current of 10uA, so when not in use, you will be burning 20ua for two. That's miniscule and shouldn't be a problem.
stevero2001
1 W
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2008
- Messages
- 53
This is probably a dumb question but, is it possible to bypass the trip current protection on these packs, and instead rely on the over current protection of my controller? I know this is a bit risky, but my controller is limited to 35A max. I'm getting a 36V 20Ah battery, and 35A will only be used for maybe 5 minutes total at any one time, during one long hill climb. My controller also has a built in low voltage cutoff that kicks in strongly at around 30V.
A second question is, how can I increase the current limit from 30A up to 35A? Does it have something to do with those three thick wires running next to the row of resistors?
Thanks for any answers
A second question is, how can I increase the current limit from 30A up to 35A? Does it have something to do with those three thick wires running next to the row of resistors?
Thanks for any answers
Dr. Shock
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2007
- Messages
- 274
albie said:
Here's a couple of posts on making a diode/fuse board, so that each battery is isolated and protected with a fuse.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3335&p=48608&hilit=+diode+board#p48608
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3395&p=49584&hilit=+diode+board#p49584
In the design shown, all the batteries were in parallel (actually they were in series in their packs, but when their current got to the diodes and fuses, they were treated as parallel). You can adapt the design so that the batteries are run in series, just as easily. PM me if you have questions.
