E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

ohzee said:
You lucky dog.. thanks for sharing and good work.. yea surprised we have not heard from the guy with the white one's.

Well I didn't really want to post pics as I tend to keep a low profile but I like looking at other peoples builds to get ideas so
I thought I'd better give back..

I did wonder if the other frames where also being exported like mine which means its quiet easy for them to stuck in customs etc for a while, which would explain why nothing much has been heard.

DoD
 
Well I didn't really want to post pics as I tend to keep a low profile but I like looking at other peoples builds to get ideas so
I thought I'd better give back..

DoD

Youd better show us how u place ur packs in the frame, and what packs you use and controler and suspension and seat post and..and..why dont you start your own build thread :)
 
Dudeofdoom said:
Well.....
This is probably a world exclusive picture of the first customer Phasor frame :D

It turned Up yesterday at parents but I didn't get it till today...

and Its rather nice......

DoD
That is possibly the most beautiful frame I have ever seen :shock:
Guess you Gould start putting "endless-sphere's first phaser frame" 8) as your sig
Congrats
 
Re: New electric mountain bike frame by Phasor Cycles
by ohzee » Wed Aug 08, 2012 3:54 am
SweKen wrote:
I was in contact with phasor yesterday about my dropout width since i would like them to be 150mm to accommodate a CroMotor. They strongly adviced me to not go for that option, they have test monted that motor and the conclusion was that the fit is really tight and the clearance for the disk brake was a pita. The said the would charge me extra Dineros if i choose to go wide anyway hence they dont have a jig for 150mm, only std 135mm and there would be extra work. They also talked about the heavy weight of a cromotor and in a rim it would be somewhere around 15kg and be an awful lot of kilos hanging in the back.

So, im back to square one on this build, dont know what to run in this frame unless i promptly decide for the wide dropouts.Im not in to going 80mph, im more for acceleration and tourque, maybe putting a carriage on the back and pull my kids around. With the cromotor i was aiming for 72v and 100amps, and now when i aint going down that road i need somw advice in what to get in the 135mm dropouts.


SweKen - My advice to you is to go for a HT3525. I think that's what I am going to do since my 5404 will not fit on this bike.

I am literally in love with my HT. It's taken everything I have thrown at it and still moves me around plenty fast. 100v 80 amps with the covers drilled.
Please dont think you can run a mac at those levels as I have toasted 2 so far trying or at least 1 very well done. The HT fits nice also and is a lot lighter.
You can even get one from methods in the US for 300 +5$ shipping I believe.

When I get back from vacation I think I am going to order another HT and just use that on my phasor.


Ozzie the HT3525 on 100v what's its top speed. I went the high speed wind.
 
Rodney64 said:
SweKen - My advice to you is to go for a HT3525. I think that's what I am going to do since my 5404 will not fit on this bike.I am literally in love with my HT. It's taken everything I have thrown at it and still moves me around plenty fast. 100v 80 amps with the covers drilled.
+1
I love my HT too, for offroad riding its great and i'm glad i didn't go for the HS. With 84v / 70a peaks its got plenty of wheelie popping torque, just enough top speed (58kph / 26" rims) and is lighter than a 53xx / 54xx / Cromo. Keep an eye on the temp, drill the covers, do the wire mod and it'll last for ages :wink:

Paul :D
 
Guys, you almost convinced me to go for the ht3525 now, but just almost. How would it performe on 100v and 100amps? Fireball in five minutes?
 
That might be asking a little too much of a HT :p
You'd definately need to add a temp probe near the windings and pay close attention to the display thats for sure! :lol:


Paul :D
 
Methods seems to think the HT3525 goes best on 100v.

Below copy from his web site
http://www.methtek.com/
Crystalyte
HOME » MOTORS » CRYSTALYTE » HT3525 26″ (REAR)

HT3525 26″ (Rear)
 
HT3525 laced into a 26″ rim. I have already done the “Cut wire Mod” on these. Dont forget you need a freewheel and torque arm.
These motors are comparable to the old 5305 Crystalyte hubs.  It will run amazingly well on 24S 100V.  This hub would be a little under-performing on 18S (by my stanEdards) and it would be tame on 12S.  I suggest this hub for someone who can run high voltage and still wants strong off the line thrust at the cost of some mid range pull.
Selecting a higher KV motor like an HS3540 would allow you to run lower voltage – like 18S – and would give you more midrange and hi speed thrust at the cost of a little off the line thrust (depending on your current limit)
Anyhow – for this HT3525 I say go 24S with an 80A current limit for great performance.
Forget it if you are running less than 18S unless you are looking for efficiency or low power torque.
 
I've been in contact with methods, and I will probably go for his advice on the 3525 and go for his controler. He's one helpfull buisnessman :)
 
Methods is a good man.

I am running one of his ht3525 motors in my Townie with a 24" rim and 2.5" hookworms (about the same size as a standard tire 26" setup). I'm running 24s with the controller set at 65a battery / 150a phase and can hit 43 mph HOC in a slight tuck. The side covers are drilled and it's hard to get the motor temp. gage to read over 80C. I'm liking this motor a lot.
 
But how tourque is it in a 26" wheel, does it powerwheelie? Hows the acceleration, good, great or really great or mindblowing? I do like the fact that it gives a bit more range than the cromotor. Butnthe cromotor is also faster at the same volts... Decisions decisions decisions.
 
The Cromotor is in a class of it's own, but since Phasor says it won't fit right in their frame, it seems the choice is easy. I was going to buy one of their frames until they told me that mounting the Cromotor compromised the integrity of their frame. This is not my opinion, it's what they said.

My Townie will do a small power wheelie at about 5 mph. But maybe that's because it's a pedal forward bike with a bit more weight on the back wheel that a normal bike has.
 
Well, let me put it this way. They do have a cromotor at their shop and they will make it fit, they say its gonna be tight and 3/16-1/4' offset to the right and it would require some dishing to center it. They will need some extra dollars but its no biggie. NOW what do you guys think? I cant make up my mind on what motor to run, feels like ive been reading about this for ages.
 
SweKen said:
Well, let me put it this way. They do have a cromotor at their shop and they will make it fit, they say its gonna be tight and 3/16-1/4' offset to the right and it would require some dishing to center it. They will need some extra dollars but its no biggie. NOW what do you guys think? I cant make up my mind on what motor to run, feels like ive been reading about this for ages.

Will you be happy with the 3525. That's the final decision that needs to be made.
 
One thing to bear in mind, you'll be limited to single speed for pedalling with a Cromotor, no room for multispeed freewheel and there is no Schlumpf option wide enough to work with the Phasor's 120mm bottom bracket shell.

But with all that torque to play with, single speed is probably not a big problem for most.
 
Now i really need to decide, i guess they will start geting bored with my, "do this, oh no wait, do this, oh no go back again, do that". Since i have no clue but the speed in Grins simulator its very hard to even know what im chosing between. I used to race 1-cyl dirtbikes of 450-500cc, and ive got a 1000cc V-twin sitting in the garage, so i know im all abpout torque. I like speed to, but not if its taking ages to get there. Now im really considering one of cellmans Mac kits and aim for range with "good" torque and beeing able to pedal at any time, and run that until i decide for real. Then ill have to sort that dropout widening problem by my self when time comes. Just wanted to share my thinking and maybe get pointed in one direction or another. :) But one thing is for sure, if im gonna sit like this, with my tablet 2 inches from my face every evening reading this forum, i can be out in the garage 24/7 if i would like, because i will be by my self....at least thats what she says. ;)
 
I think that a single speed is just too much of a compromise and considering a Schlump isn't an option, you really need to fit a rear cluster and derailleur to the bike.

As a high powered bike, I like the overvolted 3525 option. Run it on 18S to 24S for some decent speed and drill the covers for better cooling. 5kW seems to be the agreed max power for this setup.

For medium power, I like the Mac or Bafang. Again, I would go down the high torque overvolted path for best results. in a 26" wheel, a code 11 is a good selection on 18 to 20S. This will give you about 65kph wound out. I strongly recommend setting 2kW as the absolute max. I killed a Bafang code 10 at 2.5kW riding close to max speed for an extended period. I now run around 1.8kW in my Fighter with some 2kW peaks. Even at this pace, the windings are getting quite dark in color.
 
Kepler raises some valid points there. If you intend on pedalling, a single speed setup will hamper you bigtime.
Even with 5kw at my disposal, i still pedal alot to help with range and also to help take some load off the motor after i've heated it up with some hard riding and the ability to do that at either 10kmh or 40kph is handy - something a single speed setup can't achieve.

For off road riding, the HT's wheelie popping ability is great for lofting the front end over trail obstacles, to the point where i've almost looped the bike out from giving it too much juice at times (26" rim) :oops: Thats on 20s lipo, i've heard from other people that they have even more mid-range pull on 24s lipo :wink:

The Mac motors are a good unit, my girlfriend uses an 8t rear motor in a 24" rim and loves it. Its mild at lower wattage but moves along nicely at 1500 - 2000w. However as Kepler mentioned, reliability can be compromised at this power level, to the point where i ordered a spare clutch for ours incase the original fails due to the power being used. Heat can also be an issue at this power level. But if pegged to say 1000w max however, it would probably be bullet proof :)


Paul :D
 
SweKen said:
But how tourque is it in a 26" wheel, does it powerwheelie? Hows the acceleration, good, great or really great or mindblowing? I do like the fact that it gives a bit more range than the cromotor. Butnthe cromotor is also faster at the same volts... Decisions decisions decisions.

I ran a HT3525 in the rear with 30S lipo.
  • Powerwheelie? Yes!
  • Acceleration? Mindblowing!
  • Overheating? Yes, I burned the hall sensors after 10minutes going 15% uphill at 45kmh.

You don't want to pedal a HT for fun. Maybe when it is working and then add range / cool down, but not when it is shut down. Believe me, I tried.
Drilling the covers is very good advise, so is adding a temp sensor on the windings. Even though the HT does not overheat as quickly as a HS, in my experience it will overheat quickly anyway when pushed beyond 2kW. Try out the sim again, and multiply the time to overheat 1.5-fold for more realistic / less conservative estimates.
 
Dudeofdoom said:
ohzee said:
You lucky dog.. thanks for sharing and good work.. yea surprised we have not heard from the guy with the white one's.

Well I didn't really want to post pics as I tend to keep a low profile but I like looking at other peoples builds to get ideas so
I thought I'd better give back..

I did wonder if the other frames where also being exported like mine which means its quiet easy for them to stuck in customs etc for a while, which would explain why nothing much has been heard.

DoD


Dodeofdoom it's time for an update we are all waiting. Patiently at that too.
 
Nothing much to say at the mo just waiting for a headset press to turn up,
my cheap an cheerful one wasn't really upto the job and it's not hammer time on this frame

I did build the front wheel up but my spoke length calculation must have been well off so that ended up close but unsuccessful. Still wheelbuildings relaxing :D

So if anyone knows the erd of the 26x3 fat rim (I measured mine @546) then let me know :D
 
Today I Managed to get my 9c going sensorless with my 45amp crystalite controller running on 86 volts. On the flat 50kms an hour. Purchased off spike and going well.
 
Just paid in full for my frame so waiting for its arrival. Candy Blue in colour, it will go well with the West Australian summer with a Beach back drop.

Will post a couple of pics when the frame arrives.


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