E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

[dimpirate]

As far as phasor advertises there should be no need for tourque arms, (forgot we where on phasor page for a minute). Using regen will save you brakes and regenerate some energy. Im sure there other guys using regen on there frames at much higher voltages without problems. As I intend to do.
Don't know about HPC they might just be telling you things cause it's easier more convenient for them.
Has anyone had any problems running regen on there phasor frames????

 

[dimpirate]

Korpin do you have torque arms on your bike?

no just the standard phasor set up....was thinking about that too!....do you have any experience with regen as far as saving brakes and recovering energy?...heard there could be battry heating issues as well?

The only battery issue is if you have a fully charged lipo pack and drive straight down a hill using regen pushing more than 4.29 v into them. I use regen on my current setup. It's great hate using rear brakes!!!!

 

[dpearce]

I have made some revisions for the next run of frames based on feedback I have received from customers, just a few minor changes. I have added a slot to make tightening the seat post easier / possible. With the emergence of the Cromotor and it's ilk, I widened the swingarm and added a little beef to accommodate those beasts. I can make the swingarms fit just about any of the ebike hub motors. With the revisions I made sure the swingarm would fit a full size motorcycle (front) tire - max 120 / 70 x 17", like shown below, for those who want to step up into motorcycle wheels / tires.

This would fit on the rear, but the front tire size is still limited by the fork you use.

For those who want a narrower bottom bracket, I can shave max. 10mm off the width which would bring it to 110mm if it helps make the 2 speed fit.

 

[dimpirate]

I have made some revisions for the next run of frames based on feedback I have received from customers, just a few minor changes. I have added a slot to make tightening the seat post easier / possible. With the emergence of the Cromotor and it's ilk, I widened the swingarm and added a little beef to accommodate those beasts. I can make the swingarms fit just about any of the ebike hub motors. With the revisions I made sure the swingarm would fit a full size motorcycle (front) tire - max 120 / 70 x 17", like shown below, for those who want to step up into motorcycle wheels / tires.

This would fit on the rear, but the front tire size is still limited by the fork you use.

For those who want a narrower bottom bracket, I can shave max. 10mm off the width which would bring it to 110mm if it helps make the 2 speed fit.

Thanks for the post David sounds great!!!
Very happy to hear about extra dropout space and beef :lol: !!
With regards to 2 speed. For all those interested here is some info Mr Schlumpf emailed me today I'm hoping to get more information in next few days to share.
With regards to my setup David ill email after reply, to see if ill shave a little of bb, 118mm sounds like would work well.
Fred

"What we have in stock:
A version for 100mm bb shell. If you could go with this version, this would be the easiest way! It is very common on E-bikes. I'm sure, that H-M could make you a good quote for larger volumes.
We have a few hubs for 118mm bb shell left, that could probably be adapted to your application. I'll check it with H-M, how many are available.

To make a special version is not that difficult, if we can add it to the manufacturing of the standard versions. Please don't forget, that we also need shifting shaft and housing tube in a longer version...

We do that once a year, so I'm not sure, when a new batch of parts will be manufactured. I discuss it with Franz from H-M, who is the correspondent person there.


Best regards

Florian"

 

[Rodney64]

Thanks David for the update.

I'm sure that the changes will appeal.

I'm actually going to lace my H 4080 in a a motor cycle 17x1.4 (inch) Prowheel racing rim. Rix had a spare and has sent it to me.

 

[Rix]

by dpearce » Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:12 am
I have made some revisions for the next run of frames based on feedback I have received from customers, just a few minor changes. I have added a slot to make tightening the seat post easier / possible. With the emergence of the Cromotor and it's ilk, I widened the swingarm and added a little beef to accommodate those beasts. I can make the swingarms fit just about any of the ebike hub motors. With the revisions I made sure the swingarm would fit a full size motorcycle (front) tire - max 120 / 70 x 17", like shown below, for those who want to step up into motorcycle wheels / tires.

Thats awesome 8) . For the folks that really want to run high power options on the phasor, the new swingarm is the way to go. I would like to see the swingarm widend to 150mm and the dropouts widend from 3/8" to 1/2". That extra surface area to hug the axle would help with high power loads. And judging by pics I have seen on this forum with the different Phasor build's hub motors, there still enough thread showing on the axles with the nuts tightend which indicate that most axles would be long enough to handle the extra width and thicker drop outs. I advocate using Kids Mini MX front tires on Ebikes. They are not much heavier than MTB Downhill tires with HD tubes. Look at my bike a couple of pages back and you will see a 19" motor cycle tire on the rear. Thats the tire the Honda CR 85 big wheel and the KX100 comes with on the front and OD is 24.9. The tire Rod will be running on his Phasor is the 17" version of that. Rods will have an OD of 23". That will be a significant increase in torque for him. According to the Ebike simulator, Rod should be up a minimum of 15% in torque increase from running a tire with an OD of 26.5". Most 26" MTB tires wider than 2.25 inches are actually bigger than 26" diameter. Thats the equivelent of a dirtbike running a 15t countershaft sprocket, and switching to a 13t. Huge difference. Cant wait to see the redesigned swingarm on the Phasor

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

Vid with the H4080 in a 29er rim

[youtube]cAy_Y1OLVFQ[/youtube]

 

[Rodney64]

I have decided to get rid of my 45amp andersons from the controller to the motor as I keep melting the housings

I have decided to crimp using 3.5/25mm joiners. Just had a test ride and it it seems to be working.

I've made a vid if anyone's interested but its not the best.

I had a sparky show me how to fit these to my lyen controller doing away with lyens plugs.

 

[Rix]

What gauge are your halls wires? Looks like 12g in the video but that could be decieving. That 4080 works good with your 29. Can wait to see what it does with the 23". Torqorama

Rick

 

[mushymelon]

@Rodney64

My heart skipped a beat at 1:18

 

[Rodney64]

@Rodney64

My heart skipped a beat at 1:18

I've just had a look to see why and now see what you mean.

I've mounted the camera on my stem now and it doesn't interfere with handling when removed. I couldn't remove it when it was on the handlebars

Going for a ride now down to the local dirt bike hang out so will post a vid when I get back.

 

[Rix]

@Rodney64

My heart skipped a beat at 1:18

Yah, I thought the same thing, then he Rod recovered from a crash he really wasn't having. Good stuff.

 

[korpin]

some dudes told me on this forum that you do NOT really need a cassette with a hub motor because you use the smallest back gear most of the time....that may be true on flat ground,but I found I really need them for steep climbing to keep the motor from over heating and draining battery

 

[Rodney64]

some dudes told me on this forum that you do NOT really need a cassette with a hub motor because you use the smallest back gear most of the time....that may be true on flat ground,but I found I really need them for steep climbing to keep the motor from over heating and draining battery

Sometimes Korpin you need to go with your gut feeling, I use my gears when I go off road and as you say it help to keep your motor cool.

Below vid Rods 3rd bush ride.

[youtube]0tgCLbvyEoU[/youtube]

 

[Rix]

Korpin, I was one the dudes that said you didn't need all the gears, but I was refering more to the amount of ratios. If you recall, I said if I could design gear box, it would only have 4-5 speeds gapped out for ebike applications. If I was to go the cog/cluster route on an ebike like you and Rod, I would go with a custom cog assembly like this. 34, 26, 20, 13. For the front, I would go big. The gaps in the ratio I just layed out would be annoying on a non powered ebike. But lets say I was running a 46t up front. The 46t with the 34, or 26, would be all I could probably handle pedaling a 100 pound (46kg) Ebike with out power. And with power assist would be good for off road hill climbs. Then the 20 and 13t option would be Ideal for pedal assit power options on less steep terrain. And this would be for speeds between 0 and 35MPH. On my bomber, I have a 9 speed box with a 610% ratio spread. BTW, thats a huge spread. When assisting my bike under power, I never use 1st 2nd, or 3rd. When assiting under power I mostly use 6, 7, and 9. When I pedal with out power, I mostly use 2nd and 4th. And when I shift, I skip directlty to them. If I could have a 4 speed gear box, I would have speeds 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. Thats it. As a stated earlier If I could have a 5 speed box, it would be 1, 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. I would probably chose 6 over 7 to keep the ratio between 4 and 9 a little more centered. Like Rod said, just got to go with your gut and what you like. What I just said is what I would like to have, doens't mean thats what everbody would like to have.

Rod, can view your posted video 3rd bush ride from this POS laptop I got, I wil check it out later.

Rick

 

[korpin]

Your batteries dropping 6v is definatelly not normal!!
Do you have something draining them maybe lights? Better
Get that checked ASAP!

HPC saying its normal for lipos are they tellin the truth or are they a demon that speaketh with forked tongue?

 

[korpin]

Korpin, I was one the dudes that said you didn't need all the gears, but I was refering more to the amount of ratios. If you recall, I said if I could design gear box, it would only have 4-5 speeds gapped out for ebike applications. If I was to go the cog/cluster route on an ebike like you and Rod, I would go with a custom cog assembly like this. 34, 26, 20, 13. For the front, I would go big. The gaps in the ratio I just layed out would be annoying on a non powered ebike. But lets say I was running a 46t up front. The 46t with the 34, or 26, would be all I could probably handle pedaling a 100 pound (46kg) Ebike with out power. And with power assist would be good for off road hill climbs. Then the 20 and 13t option would be Ideal for pedal assit power options on less steep terrain. And this would be for speeds between 0 and 35MPH. On my bomber, I have a 9 speed box with a 610% ratio spread. BTW, thats a huge spread. When assisting my bike under power, I never use 1st 2nd, or 3rd. When assiting under power I mostly use 6, 7, and 9. When I pedal with out power, I mostly use 2nd and 4th. And when I shift, I skip directlty to them. If I could have a 4 speed gear box, I would have speeds 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. Thats it. As a stated earlier If I could have a 5 speed box, it would be 1, 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. I would probably chose 6 over 7 to keep the ratio between 4 and 9 a little more centered. Like Rod said, just got to go with your gut and what you like. What I just said is what I would like to have, doens't mean thats what everbody would like to have.

Rod, can view your posted video 3rd bush ride from this POS laptop I got, I wil check it out later.

Rick

thinkin a shclumph drive would give me the best combo using smallest rear gear and highest front pedal for street and smaller pedal and bigger rear for climbing to maximize range has anyone tried shclumph on phasor yet?....someone was talking group buy right now my smaller front sprocket is about perfect for climbing but inadequate after about 20 mph on street how much those schlumph type drives weigh anyway?

 

[Rodney64]

Korpin, you'll loose voltage if powers going though the controller. If your not confident to use a voltmeter to test the controller to see if its got voltage then take it to someone who can test it. Auto electrican, or any licenced electrican. If there is power going though there controller then you need to put an isolation switch between the positive from the battery and the controller.

Running power though the controller will drain the battery in a couple of weeks if not topped up and this could result in damage to the battery.,another option would be to to check the battery disconnect the battery and then check it in a week. If its holding voltage then the batteries ok.

It's good practise to disconnect the battery if not ridden for any length of time anyway.

 

[Rix]

HPC saying its normal for lipos are they tellin the truth or are they a demon that speaketh with forked tongue?

Korpin, clarify this, are you noticing the 6 volts drop from what your battery voltage is displaying hot off the charger? Or is the 6 volt drop occuring after your bike's battery has already settled from charging? If it the first, then that is normal. Lipos and Lifepo4 voltage will drop to what ever their nominal no load voltage is with in a day or two after charging. Good example, my batterys peaks at 87.4 volts hot off the charger. It drops down to 81.2 after 24 hours, and after 3 days, it settles at 79.9 and stay there. Lets say my battery was settled at 79.9 then dropped 6 volts while just sitting in my house, then there would be a problem. Even though I originally had some heartburn with HPC because they took their sweet ass time with your build, those guys seem to be on the up and up, I would listen to them, your battery was built by them, they know what going on with their stuff, if they say its normal, then I would trust that. As far as Schlumpf goes, there are different units available for bicycles. Depending on the model, your looking at about 4 pounds , thats total weight of the whole system including the bottom bracket without pedals. BTW, you healing up Ok?

Rod, great video, I really like the terrain that Austraila has. Beutiful dirt. You are going to love your 4080 with the 23 on that terrain.

Rick

 

[Rodney64]

When into Perth last night to watch the fireworks.


At 13 seconds into the movie on the left hand side is harbour town. A couple of brazen thieves decided to use the banging of the fireworks to blow a couple of ATM machines.

http://www.perthnow.com.au/news/western-australia/atms-explode-during-wa-fireworks-display/story-e6frg13u-1226562881987

[youtube]GUlQCRT7EDg[/youtube]

 

[Rodney64]

HPC saying its normal for lipos are they tellin the truth or are they a demon that speaketh with forked tongue?

Korpin, clarify this, are you noticing the 6 volts drop from what your battery voltage is displaying hot off the charger? Or is the 6 volt drop occuring after your bike's battery has already settled from charging? If it the first, then that is normal. Lipos and Lifepo4 voltage will drop to what ever their nominal no load voltage is with in a day or two after charging. Good example, my batterys peaks at 87.4 volts hot off the charger. It drops down to 81.2 after 24 hours, and after 3 days, it settles at 79.9 and stay there. Lets say my battery was settled at 79.9 then dropped 6 volts while just sitting in my house, then there would be a problem. Even though I originally had some heartburn with HPC because they took their sweet ass time with your build, those guys seem to be on the up and up, I would listen to them, your battery was built by them, they know what going on with their stuff, if they say its normal, then I would trust that. As far as Schlumpf goes, there are different units available for bicycles. Depending on the model, your looking at about 4 pounds , thats total weight of the whole system including the bottom bracket without pedals. BTW, you healing up Ok?

Rod, great video, I really like the terrain that Austraila has. Beutiful dirt. You are going to love your 4080 with the 23 on that terrain.

Rick

Korpin, jut charged my battery. Charger cuts off at 100.2 but after 6 hours its settled at 99. 2

I'm prepared to check it in 12 hours but normally my bike will not go longer without being used.

 

[Hyena]

Lipos and Lifepo4 voltage will drop to what ever their nominal no load voltage is with in a day or two after charging.

Lifepo4 drops a bit but lipo shouldn't. I left a lipo pack sit fully charged for the best part of a year and just recently started using it again. It had only dropped to ~4.13-4.15v/cell. Thats around 1.5v drop on a 24S pack over 12 months. So no, 6V drop over ANY period of time is worrying for lipo. Mind you if there's no isolation switch to turn off the controller that could be pulling it down. Likewise the BMS but I still wouldnt expect that sort of drop over a short period of time.

 

[Rodney64]

Is the pack still balenanced?

 

[Rix]

Perth sure is a beutiful place. How is the norco doing? Your son looks like he is having fun on it. Just in case you don't like the maxxis knobby I sent you. Here are some tires that are trully dual purpose. They all weigh in the 5 pound range (2.4-2.7KG) which is only about 2 pounds (1KG) more than the Duro Razorbacks that come on the Bomber and Fighter. But as I stated before, the little additional weight gain is offset by the large torque increase you will get. Now all of these tires are slightly bigger round than the Maxxis maxicross I have on the way to you. That tire is 23" (584mm) and these tires are 23.2 (591)mm for the shinko 275-17, 23.7" or 602mm for the Michielin Gazelle M62 275-17, and the IRC NR53 2.75-17 is 23.5 or about 597mm. All of these tires are about 3.1 inches 80mm wide. Not sure what kind of clearance you have between the swingarm but as long as its 90mm or wider, shouldn't be any problems with clearances.
Rick

 

[Rix]

Lipos and Lifepo4 voltage will drop to what ever their nominal no load voltage is with in a day or two after charging.

Lifepo4 drops a bit but lipo shouldn't. I left a lipo pack sit fully charged for the best part of a year and just recently started using it again. It had only dropped to ~4.13-4.15v/cell. Thats around 1.5v drop on a 24S pack over 12 months. So no, 6V drop over ANY period of time is worrying for lipo. Mind you if there's no isolation switch to turn off the controller that could be pulling it down. Likewise the BMS but I still wouldnt expect that sort of drop over a short period of time.

Thanks for the corrected information on the Lipo Hyena, I didn't know they held close to peak charge hot off the charger for so long. I knew there was some settling but only a volt or two on a 24s after a year, that less than I thought. I guess thats one of the difference between lithium phosphate and lithium polymer chemistry. So if Korpin is dropping 6 volts, could that be a bad cell in his pack and the other cells are taking up the extra voltage while charging? If thats the case and hes dropping 6 volts after settling, would that be from 1-2 volt drop from settling after charging, and then another 4.XX whatever volts from the dead cell not holding peak charge at all? Or, am I way wrong?

Rick