E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter voicecoils
- Start date
Also, if you are going to use something higher power than the original, you probably have to replace the battery with a new one that can handle the higher output required.
If you are replacing the motor/controller for higher power, you probably also should define for yourself the specific job the bike will have to do for you, under what riding conditions, so you can use things like the simulators at ebikes.ca to guesstimate the power required to do that job.
If you don't, then you might either not get enough power to do what you want, or you might spend more money than you needed to....
If you are replacing the motor/controller for higher power, you probably also should define for yourself the specific job the bike will have to do for you, under what riding conditions, so you can use things like the simulators at ebikes.ca to guesstimate the power required to do that job.
If you don't, then you might either not get enough power to do what you want, or you might spend more money than you needed to....
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
You might like to look at this thread I made upgrading my Bomber.
Stealth Bomber QS205/Kelly KLS7218S Upgrade
To avoid confusion this bike is a Stealth Electric Bicycles 2013 Bomber #412 made in Australia, not a chinese clone. It came stock from the factory equipped with a Crystalyte 5403 motor, 65 amp Infineon controller, Cycle Analyst V3 computer, and a 72v 18ah LiFePo4 battery. It was accuately...
endless-sphere.com
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I love my bikey
damancalldan
10 mW
hey guys would it be possible to get a seperate battery that runs into a XLR that i can then plug into the stealth to charge my battery? is that possible? if so i might get one made and pay obviously im in melbourne thanks guys my email is daniel.porto@live.com.au
damancalldan
10 mW
Anyone else with a p7??? I kept getting broken spokes so I upgraded them to 10a thickness or whatever the same that’s on the bomber and it’s running perfect
Now I have heaps of spokes left aswell if anyone wants some I bought 144 of them for 400aud not cheap but I’ll do a good deal for anyone interested
Not a good idea. The XLR connector is only good for around 5A max. Connecting a battery though it while riding will draw as much power as it wants to maintain voltage equilibrium with the internal battery. Basically, the moment you pulled hard up a hill you would melt the connector.
If your interested in a bigger battery, hit me up via my website below or PM me.
Cheers
damancalldan
10 mW
thanks mate i was looking for your channel!! would it be possible to do if i charge it powered off? So i can charge it up while on lunch, or overnight if i want to go camping?
The only way to do that would be a DC-DC converter that can boost to the packs full charge voltage.
Something like these could work, but they would be running at their max current the whole time, get really hot and may not last.
Better would be a DC-DC charger which regulates current, but I can't find any that boost up to 84V.
Cheers
The battery would have to have it's own built in charger, or a current limiter (automatically limiting it's output current to less than the max the built in pack and all interconnects can handle) by dropping it's voltage, as a charger or LED PSU, CC CV power supply, etc does), otherwise as soon as you plug it in to the empty built in battery it will supply a very high current (as much as it can possibly do before it's own fuse or BMS either fails or cuts off the output), which can damage or destroy the charge port wiring and/or BMS of the built in battery (and possibly the output wiring of the plug-in charge pack). If none of those things happened, then the cells in the built in pack could then be damaged by the excessive charge current.
Some of the Meanwell LED PSUs (those that accept DC input) could be used for this, but you need a higher voltage charge battery; high enough to run the LED PSU even as the charge battery is emptied. Most likely you'd have to use two with their outputs wired in series . I know the HLG can be used this way, but not sure which others can. (you can ask MW about it).
If you can always leave this pack connected to the charge port of the built in pack, and before connecting it make sure that both it and the built in pack are fully charged and the same voltage, then it is safe enough to use it this way; the current shouldn't normally get too high for the charge port wiring to handle, assuming the charging pack is smaller in capacity and current capability than the built in pack. Charging the charge pack then also charges the built in pack. It has the disadvantage that you have to mount this pack somewhere securely, and cable them together securely so they can't come apart while riding.
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Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I think everybody is over thinking it. If you've got a second battery, just swap it out with the first battery. No need to wait on charging.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Rix
100 TW
Nice TV, here are some pics of the latest generation of the Bomber...err B52. The pivot bearing is a bit larger than the original Vboxx. The new Hex Boxx? is a wide ratio 6 speed spanning 600%, and electronic shift. A real improvement.
Attachments
Beautiful bikes! I hadn't realized that they are now pushing $13K (AUD?) That would be $19K US 
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biphaeboh
100 W
$13K AUD is $8740 USD.
Rix
100 TW
I think you were confusing the USD exchange rate with the GPB instead of the AUD.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I just rode home 13 miles in 103 degree air averaging 35-40 mph, and the hottest spot I can find on my motor is 130 degrees.
TV, glad to hear the beast is still running! I see you never went NUC.. Hey how did you determine your kelly controller was 80 battery amps? I tried looking this up via kelly and a few other sites but couldn't find it.. Thx man.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Yeah, I just don't feel any incentive to change my controller, because I'm so pleased with the way my bike already runs. Maybe the nuc would be better, but who cares?
The website where I bought the Kelly from lists the KLS7218S as 80 amp continuous.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
This is a list of the best updates I've done to my Bomber
80 amp controller
35 ah battery
SurRon seat
65mm rims
Front and rear lighting
Higher quality suspension
80 amp controller
35 ah battery
SurRon seat
65mm rims
Front and rear lighting
Higher quality suspension
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
My hookworm on the rear that I installed last October during the rebuild is worn out. I'm guessing about 800 miles on it. If you want to get nit picky it probably would of been considered worn out about 200 miles ago. In the same amount of time I've gone through around 6 sets of brake pads. Lucky to get 2 months out of them, doesn't matter front of rear. I had to tighten up some rear wheel spokes about 3 times. This set up is hard on spokes. They seem to be holding up pretty good for now.
I love everything about the way my bike runs now with the QS205 motor, and Kelly controller. The worst thing I could say is it seems overly mild off the line to me, but it's still stronger than stock. It feels a lot more powerful starting about 18 mph, and it seems to get better range while crusing any speed above that, than it used to. The higher end power is so good that, now with my tire this worn out when I gas it, I'm afraid the motor is going to rip the tire to shreds. Lately I've been only riding as far from home as I'd care to have to walk my bike back.
I love everything about the way my bike runs now with the QS205 motor, and Kelly controller. The worst thing I could say is it seems overly mild off the line to me, but it's still stronger than stock. It feels a lot more powerful starting about 18 mph, and it seems to get better range while crusing any speed above that, than it used to. The higher end power is so good that, now with my tire this worn out when I gas it, I'm afraid the motor is going to rip the tire to shreds. Lately I've been only riding as far from home as I'd care to have to walk my bike back.
I don't see threads yet, you've still got rubber to burn off! 
