Found an awesome torque arm

[Boyntonstu]

I am using this until I get the 10mm bolt, etc.

Image

Ha Ha, seems like we've done a full circle, the original photo was a spanner as torque arm (now removed) by memory

In the U.S. we call it a wrench.

In England they call it a spanner.

"Wrench" as a tool does stem from "wrench", meaning to twist:

wrench — Old English wrencan "to twist," from Proto-Germanic *wrankjan, from PIE *wreng- "to turn", nasalized variant of *werg- "to turn", from root *wer- (3) "to turn, bend" (see versus).
"Spanner", on the other hand, has this history:

spanner — 1630s, a tool for winding the spring of a wheel-lock firearm, from German Spanner, from spannen (see span (v.)). Meaning "wrench" is from 1790.

span — Old English spannan "to join, link, clasp, fasten, bind, connect; stretch, span," from Proto-Germanic *spannan, from PIE root *(s)pen- "to draw, stretch, spin"
The "wrench" connection is most likely related to the connection between "span" and "spin".

I think that it is an effective torque arm and it looks cool.

 

[dingoEsride]

A spanner or wrench was used in the original photo shown by the original post when this thread started now missing due to the take over or removed by poster

 

[Boyntonstu]

Common Zip Tie Tensile Strengths
As a general rule of thumb (and a simplification) here are some tensile strengths that you might find for common zip ties:
Standard every day zip ties: around 50 lbs
Wee tiny zip ties: 18 lbs
Standard heavy duty cable ties: 120 lbs
The largest and buffest zip ties: 175 lbs

I believe that double zips will hold the torque wrench.

 

[dingoEsride]

Common Zip Tie Tensile Strengths
As a general rule of thumb (and a simplification) here are some tensile strengths that you might find for common zip ties:
Standard every day zip ties: around 50 lbs
Wee tiny zip ties: 18 lbs
Standard heavy duty cable ties: 120 lbs
The largest and buffest zip ties: 175 lbs

I believe that double zips will hold the torque wrench.

if you could spin your wrench clockwise till it rests against the frame then use the zipties to hold it in place, the torque force will be against the frame rather than just zipties, do you have Regen braking?

 

[Boyntonstu]

Common Zip Tie Tensile Strengths
As a general rule of thumb (and a simplification) here are some tensile strengths that you might find for common zip ties:
Standard every day zip ties: around 50 lbs
Wee tiny zip ties: 18 lbs
Standard heavy duty cable ties: 120 lbs
The largest and buffest zip ties: 175 lbs

I believe that double zips will hold the torque wrench.

if you could spin your wrench clockwise till it rests against the frame then use the zipties to hold it in place, the torque force will be against the frame rather than just zipties, do you have Regen braking?

Can't change the angle.

Next, I will fabricate a steel arm to fit the box end of the wrench and to be screws to the frame with the hole provided.

 

[Punx0r]

A spanner/wrench is a pretty poor fit so if you have regen the repeated rocking back and forth will eventually chew up the axle and round it off.

 

[Boyntonstu]

A spanner/wrench is a pretty poor fit so if you have regen the repeated rocking back and forth will eventually chew up the axle and round it off.

No regen, no rocking.

The axle is steel, dropouts aluminum.

If spun, the axle will round out the aluminum dropout.

 

[dingoEsride]

if spun, all your wires will get twisted off and you might lose that wheel but would depend on your power output, I ran a 500w front frock on ally forks without torque arms and they hung on with good tight fitting washers but as a precaution I went the safer way

 

[amberwolf]

A spanner/wrench is a pretty poor fit so if you have regen the repeated rocking back and forth will eventually chew up the axle and round it off.

Must depend on the wrench and the axle. The ones I've used were generally tight enough a fit to have to be tapped on gently, or even filed a tiny bit. I'm still running wrench-arms on CrazyBike2's front hub, which uses a 40A controller and regen braking, without issue after quite a while now (2 years? 3? I forget).

I did actually break a wrench once, but it was a little bitty one that I'd ground away a fair bit of one face to make it fit; I think it had been a 3/8" and I turned it into a 10mm....

 

[Meister]

I am using this until I get the 10mm bolt, etc.

This combo will not save your dropouts.
Zip ties are pulling this wrench forward - they aren't canceling torque forces from motor axle at all.
You need zip ties fixed through rear brake hole - wrench needs to be pulled backwards.

 

[Boyntonstu]

I am using this until I get the 10mm bolt, etc.

This combo will not save your dropouts.
Zip ties are pulling this wrench forward - they aren't canceling torque forces from motor axle at all.
You need zip ties fixed through rear brake hole - wrench needs to be pulled backwards.

The motor torque is opposite the direction of rotation.

Wheelies are what occur when you add a lot of torque and the front end rotates about the rear axle.

The zip ties are positioned to prevent the wrench from going rearward as during a wheelie.

 

[Voltron]

As a member of the wrench torque arm club, I can say you're right about the direction of spin, but zip ties age out quickly from UV and flexing.

Stainless steel zip ties are available at a lot of auto parts stores and might bring more peace of mind. Also, a bolt with a spacer around it the right size to touch the back edge of the wrench could be put in the rearward brake mount hole, so the wrench would rest against it before it moved much

That being said, something thinner would be better... Currently your axle nut is on the part where the wire exit notch is... so it's only engaging threads on one quarter of the circumference of it, since there's no threads on the flats either.

 

[Boyntonstu]

As a member of the wrench torque arm club, I can say you're right about the direction of spin, but zip ties age out quickly from UV and flexing.

Stainless steel zip ties are available at a lot of auto parts stores and might bring more peace of mind. Also, a bolt with a spacer around it the right size to touch the back edge of the wrench could be put in the rearward brake mount hole, so the wrench would rest against it before it moved much

That being said, something thinner would be better... Currently your axle nut is on the part where the wire exit notch is... so it's only engaging threads on one quarter of the circumference of it, since there's no threads on the flats either.

My plan is to cut a steel plate with bolt head/washers/nuts to fit the box wrench on rear end and a hole on the forward end through which a screw and a nut will attach to the front zip hole.

 

[Voltron]

If you're going to the trouble of cutting a steel plate, why not just skip the wrench?

 

[Boyntonstu]

If you're going to the trouble of cutting a steel plate, why not just skip the wrench?

The wrench open end fits the axle perfectly, it is a long lever arm, and the box end fits the bolt perfectly.

A 1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1.8 piece of steel with 2 drilled holes is easy peasy.

For example, half of a 90* angle brace from Home Depot should do it.

 

[dogman dan]

Well,, your wrench fits fine, but in the picture I see a nut that is not on the axle far enough to hold. It has to go on the axle deeper than the notch cut for the wire to come out.

Looks like you have a washer there, that you need to remove so the nut can get on the threads properly.