I purchased a Freego FS-10S (Really a ES-10S they renamed to FS for some reason in the USA) back in 2019 from Amazon. It was returned and because of the issues I had out of box I got it for really cheap, about $375.
It's a 48V (13S4P battery pack rated at 10.4Ah / 499.2Wh) scooter with what appears to be a Bafang hub motor in the rear. Motor has the following info printed on it: LY48V10'500W. Controller looks to be made by JYTJD, label on it indicates Freego as the manufacturer but the model number is YCSV030-102-48(891HA) which lines up with other posts I've seen for JYTJD controllers. Controller has a max current rating of 20+/-1A and has 6 P75NF75 FETs, I've had it open a few times to perform a shunt mod and have a poke around in there.
When I received it I found a few issues with it, #1 being that it was advertised as having an 800watt motor but it's clearly a 500watt unit that also matches all the specifications of the ES-10S that is sold in other parts of the world. I think the USA distributor of it just upped the current limit in the P-Settings and said 'Poof! It's 800watts now' which I guess isn't really a lie. This plus some physical scrapes and such allowed me to get a large discount from what I originally paid for it. The LCD on it can be janky at times along with the cracked and repaired throttle.
The second biggest issue that was present from day 1 and one I still encounter is this: When riding around the neighborhood I'll slow down to take a turn by lightly pressing the brake lever to just engage the regen braking / electric motor brake, enter the corner, and at the half way point of coming out of the corner I'll apply the throttle (doesn't matter if I give it 25% or 100% throttle here). At this point the scooter feels like the motor brake is strongly applied and I'll see a Error 4 message which the manual says is a controller error. If I let off the throttle the error message goes away on its own after a few seconds and I can accelerate normally, 1 out of 20 times the error won't clear and I'll have to power cycle the scooter and it comes back like nothing ever happened. Overall this gets pretty irritating as it happens over 50% of the time I slow down with the brake lightly applied and then accelerate shortly after.
I've got the full documentation for all the P-Settings on the scooter and this controller looks to be suited for bike or scooter use. I'm not sure if any of the PAS settings could be playing a role in that error or maybe one of the other settings like "Dragging strength" which I believe to be the motor brake strength.
Believing that the controller had some issues and seeing that most of the parts on this scooter seem to be fairly generic I figured I'd give the shunt mod a go to see if I could get a little more push for going up hills. I've got the P-Setting current limit set up at 25A but I'm sure the controller won't go over the 20A that's printed on the label. Of note the current setting comes from the factory at 12A per the documentation but mine was set at 15 when I received it. The shunt mod did make a decent difference on hill climbing and top speed by a few MPH, and it doesn't seem to have caused any other issues as it doesn't get too hot or do anything else out of the ordinary. It doesn't have all the hill climbing power I'd like from it, but ultimately it's a single motor and does well in my opinion. If I want more climbing power from it I'd assume I'll need to look into adding a front motor as well (Which there is a dual motor version of this same scooter and I think the front fork is setup to hold a motor if I wanted to go that route)
Attached are a number of pictures of the internals along with the P-Settings guide in case it's useful to someone in the future. For scale the screw holes on the bottom deck are about 4.5" on center to give an idea of room in the deck.
Questions I have:
1.) Any ideas on parameters I could tweak or adjust to possibly help with the Error 4 message I get?
2.) Recommendations on a decent controller that supports a LCD in the 25-30A range? Old controller is about 4.5" long but I have more space in there for a larger controller.
3.) Thoughts on replacing the battery pack with a 21700 cell based pack and/or going with a 52V unit, will it add a noticeable bump to hill climbing torque?
Thanks in advance for any info on what I should do with this thing! Overall I like it a lot and am impressed with speed while carrying me, it can nip at 30MPH on a flat run with 190lb me on it and up more gradual hills it can maintain 16MPH+. I'm happy with those speeds, I'd just like to get rid of the controller errors and possibly get a bit more pep up hills. If it takes an entirely new controller, LCD, throttle then I'm okay with that.
It's a 48V (13S4P battery pack rated at 10.4Ah / 499.2Wh) scooter with what appears to be a Bafang hub motor in the rear. Motor has the following info printed on it: LY48V10'500W. Controller looks to be made by JYTJD, label on it indicates Freego as the manufacturer but the model number is YCSV030-102-48(891HA) which lines up with other posts I've seen for JYTJD controllers. Controller has a max current rating of 20+/-1A and has 6 P75NF75 FETs, I've had it open a few times to perform a shunt mod and have a poke around in there.
When I received it I found a few issues with it, #1 being that it was advertised as having an 800watt motor but it's clearly a 500watt unit that also matches all the specifications of the ES-10S that is sold in other parts of the world. I think the USA distributor of it just upped the current limit in the P-Settings and said 'Poof! It's 800watts now' which I guess isn't really a lie. This plus some physical scrapes and such allowed me to get a large discount from what I originally paid for it. The LCD on it can be janky at times along with the cracked and repaired throttle.
The second biggest issue that was present from day 1 and one I still encounter is this: When riding around the neighborhood I'll slow down to take a turn by lightly pressing the brake lever to just engage the regen braking / electric motor brake, enter the corner, and at the half way point of coming out of the corner I'll apply the throttle (doesn't matter if I give it 25% or 100% throttle here). At this point the scooter feels like the motor brake is strongly applied and I'll see a Error 4 message which the manual says is a controller error. If I let off the throttle the error message goes away on its own after a few seconds and I can accelerate normally, 1 out of 20 times the error won't clear and I'll have to power cycle the scooter and it comes back like nothing ever happened. Overall this gets pretty irritating as it happens over 50% of the time I slow down with the brake lightly applied and then accelerate shortly after.
I've got the full documentation for all the P-Settings on the scooter and this controller looks to be suited for bike or scooter use. I'm not sure if any of the PAS settings could be playing a role in that error or maybe one of the other settings like "Dragging strength" which I believe to be the motor brake strength.
Believing that the controller had some issues and seeing that most of the parts on this scooter seem to be fairly generic I figured I'd give the shunt mod a go to see if I could get a little more push for going up hills. I've got the P-Setting current limit set up at 25A but I'm sure the controller won't go over the 20A that's printed on the label. Of note the current setting comes from the factory at 12A per the documentation but mine was set at 15 when I received it. The shunt mod did make a decent difference on hill climbing and top speed by a few MPH, and it doesn't seem to have caused any other issues as it doesn't get too hot or do anything else out of the ordinary. It doesn't have all the hill climbing power I'd like from it, but ultimately it's a single motor and does well in my opinion. If I want more climbing power from it I'd assume I'll need to look into adding a front motor as well (Which there is a dual motor version of this same scooter and I think the front fork is setup to hold a motor if I wanted to go that route)
Attached are a number of pictures of the internals along with the P-Settings guide in case it's useful to someone in the future. For scale the screw holes on the bottom deck are about 4.5" on center to give an idea of room in the deck.
Questions I have:
1.) Any ideas on parameters I could tweak or adjust to possibly help with the Error 4 message I get?
2.) Recommendations on a decent controller that supports a LCD in the 25-30A range? Old controller is about 4.5" long but I have more space in there for a larger controller.
3.) Thoughts on replacing the battery pack with a 21700 cell based pack and/or going with a 52V unit, will it add a noticeable bump to hill climbing torque?
Thanks in advance for any info on what I should do with this thing! Overall I like it a lot and am impressed with speed while carrying me, it can nip at 30MPH on a flat run with 190lb me on it and up more gradual hills it can maintain 16MPH+. I'm happy with those speeds, I'd just like to get rid of the controller errors and possibly get a bit more pep up hills. If it takes an entirely new controller, LCD, throttle then I'm okay with that.
Attachments
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Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_1.png69.9 KB · Views: 2,101
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Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_2.png47.2 KB · Views: 2,097
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NeckIntoBase-Controller.png603 KB · Views: 2,092
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RearMotor.png876.8 KB · Views: 2,083
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BottomPanelOff2.jpg130.7 KB · Views: 2,085
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ControllerInternals1.jpg155.8 KB · Views: 2,080
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ControllerInternals2.jpg128.8 KB · Views: 2,078
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ControllerOutside.jpg139.5 KB · Views: 2,081
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Battery.png548.1 KB · Views: 2,086