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GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

notger said:
hi

does anyone of you know this effect, that the bikes drive chain gets "eaten" wraped around the shifting-chainrings ?

I know that dirty sandy and frozen chains cause these problems but i just put a new chain on and in most cases i drive uphill with one of the smaller chainring 22t or 33t and the chain gets wraped around the chainring. (i have 4 chainring 3 for shifting and one for transfering the power from the gng)

So it does not follow the line back to the sprockets.

this did never happen on a leveled course or with the big 44 t chainring

i allready tried the bionicon c.guide but it got destroied after a few "chain wraps"

anyone with the same experience? an some ideas what do do about it?

thanks

This effect is commonly known as "chainsuck", you can google it and find a lot of info.
In my experience, keeping the chain well lubed reduces the chance of it "sticking" to the chainring and being sucked.

Avner.
 
When I had that happening on mine it turned out to be that the chain was too long too. Watched a youtube vid to see how to properly setup the length of a chain, took out a couple of links to adjust mine, and its all good now.
 
when i first changed the chain on my 10 X 3 gears i found out that finding the chainlength is quite tricky compared to 8 X 3 because of the big diamete difference of the smales>/biggest sprocket and chainwheel.

while on smalles sprocket and chainwheel the chain is hanging too loose it will be too tight even not jumbing on if you shift to biggest chainwheel anf sprocket.

i know never use gear cominations like that. but it happen many times allready that i lended my bike to someone just for a testride and he came back with the chain beeing so snug on the big chainwheel and sprocket that i could hardly get it of.

the teeth of either the sprocket or the chainwheel should be no problem in my case both have less than 250 km

but for sure it makes sense, that with high rpm of the gng on the small chainwheel the chain hardly has time to get in line again and sty under the sucking point what would be the center point of the crank

i found some stuff you could add to the bike preventing chainsuck like
http://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?products_id=9611
or
http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/09/03...ogically-advanced-anti-chainsuck-device-ever/

anyone experience with those things?

thanks

gernot
 
Check to make sure you have no tight links in the chain. Last year out of the blue my chain would fall off for no apparent reason. This drove me nuts. While searching for the issue my nephew noticed a slightly bent and sticking link. I freed it up am the problem disappeared.


notger said:
hi

does anyone of you know this effect, that the bikes drive chain gets "eaten" wraped around the shifting-chainrings ?

I know that dirty sandy and frozen chains cause these problems but i just put a new chain on and in most cases i drive uphill with one of the smaller chainring 22t or 33t and the chain gets wraped around the chainring. (i have 4 chainring 3 for shifting and one for transfering the power from the gng)

So it does not follow the line back to the sprockets.

this did never happen on a leveled course or with the big 44 t chainring

i allready tried the bionicon c.guide but it got destroied after a few "chain wraps"

anyone with the same experience? an some ideas what do do about it?

thanks
 
Any problem using 20s 45A?
Do i need to change wires?
 
chucho said:
Any problem using 20s 45A?
Do i need to change wires?

45A is pushing the limit on the stock phase wires the kit comes with. Especially if you are using a CA to limit your 45 and with the limiter delay you will exceed 45. I hit bursts of 43a with my limiter set to 40. If you sustain 45a, the wires will really get hot. Will probably work fine, hold and last. I'm sure many people run with that setup or close to it with stock wiring. But know that you will be running it on its limits. That gauge wire is not made to sustain 45a currents.

Wishes
 
I've been tempted to swap my phase wires for no other reason than to frock around...

Will it make any difference on a fairly stock setup? I'm pushing 30 amps now, and haven't experienced any heat issues thus far.
 
r3volved said:
I've been tempted to swap my phase wires for no other reason than to frock around...

Will it make any difference on a fairly stock setup? I'm pushing 30 amps now, and haven't experienced any heat issues thus far.

It is never a bad thing to increase the gauge, less resistance, more efficiency. But that would be the only reason you would need to at 30 amps. Those wires can handle that fine. I run the stock phase wires at 40amps. They are warm after a ride, but not hot. I don't sustain 40 amps very long.

Wishes
 
Wishes said:
chucho said:
Any problem using 20s 45A?
Do i need to change wires?

45A is pushing the limit on the stock phase wires the kit comes with. Especially if you are using a CA to limit your 45 and with the limiter delay you will exceed 45. I hit bursts of 43a with my limiter set to 40. If you sustain 45a, the wires will really get hot. Will probably work fine, hold and last. I'm sure many people run with that setup or close to it with stock wiring. But know that you will be running it on its limits. That gauge wire is not made to sustain 45a currents.

Wishes

Thank you for your answer. The max of controler is 45A maybe 43-44A (greentime). I would like to use that controler cause i allready have one as spare part of my dayly 9c bike. This way i can use aswell my spare batery pack for it and simplify things a lot.

In the future (when i have to by new batery packs) possibly use 24s 30a :D

Anyone using 45a not chainging wires??
 
love this simple example is worth having a gear, leaving the motor directly to the chainring engine is very similar to ours, see the link on facebook :arrow:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/BHT-DIFFUSION/293158214032077
 

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Muapeia said:
love this simple example is worth having a gear, leaving the motor directly to the chainring engine is very similar to ours, see the link on facebook :arrow:

Hi Antonio- That is a very clean and high tech looking installation. The problem I see with it is that there is not enough reduction on the motor. There is only one stage of reduction to the BB and then instead of going direct to the rear wheel the motor power blends with the BB and is overdriven to the rear wheel. For a typical 3,000 rpm motor we either need 30:1 reduction to the BB so that it matches the BB rpm or we need to keep the motor separate from the pedal power to the rear wheel. In that method we overdrive the pedals 4:1 and underdrive the motor 7:1. I think it is better to keep the motor power out of the BB but it makes driveline packaging more difficult.
 
I've been meaning to report back on the new mounting plates I got from lightening rods a while ago.

I finally got time to fit them the other weekend, and after sourcing new chains and a new bolt I have it all together. I'm so happy I went for this upgrade, it's a million miles better than the cheese plates that came with the original kit. They are really solid and offer decent adjustment.

My seat of the pants feeling says there is more power without the chain tensioners and it is generally quieter than before (although it could always be quieter still so I'm keeping my ear open for a belt conversion or some sort of chain cover).

IMG_20140222_151911.jpg

I really feel that the bike is finally robust enough to ride off-road without too many issues, certainly not from the electrical side, and I do ride pretty hard. I think I need to look for some more robust forks, and a more powerful front brake next.

So thanks Mike... very happy :)

Oh, and this thing is SO much fun, it can't be long before there are proper races for e-mtb.
 
notger said:
hi

a question to lightning rod od ladytost

"you once built the 73mm lower sheet with tensioning-screw do you build this one also in 68mm already?"

cause the photo ladytoast posted looks like the sheets from the motor side is outside of the bb-sheet then the bb-distance could be 68 again? right
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=130893

greets

notger

Here's his site with the uppers and lowers. I think he has, or is working on a 100mm BB as well. http://www.lightningrodev.com/
 
boltedjolt said:
Need more video of gng kit tear up the trails or just fooling around.

[youtube]http://youtu.be/qLjBBFCSK2E[/youtube]

A fellow ES member came by to check out my bike and my friend's GNG 1.1 Howler this past weekend. Nothing crazy, but a lot of fun. :wink:
 
I have this, it's not brilliant and quite shaky, but gives an idea

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB-As39Ga8w[/youtube]

I have some better ones on the way soon
 
I don't have an action cam, but I do have any old Sony Handicam that saves the data onto a memory stick duo. I should get a portable tripod and make some 3rd person shots.
 
ladytoast said:
I finally got time to fit them the other weekend, and after sourcing new chains and a new bolt I have it all together. I'm so happy I went for this upgrade, it's a million miles better than the cheese plates that came with the original kit. They are really solid and offer decent adjustment.

My seat of the pants feeling says there is more power without the chain tensioners and it is generally quieter than before (although it could always be quieter still so I'm keeping my ear open for a belt conversion or some sort of chain cover).

So thanks Mike... very happy :)

I can't tell you how happy I am to get these positive reports back from you guys. I looked at the failings in the stock kit and took my best guess on how to fix the shortcomings. I'm glad that it's all worked out so well. More fun stuff coming! :D

I am making 68mm wide sheets, 73mm sheets and once I have my complete kit in production I'll be working on 100mm kits. The 100mm kit can be whatever people want it to be: small block, big block, BB drive, direct drive. I will build to the will of the majority. I've been talking to Wishes in PM about a BB drive with single run BMX 'fixie' to the right side. I'm really fascinated with this idea. Solid, simple, and if you're running enough voltage you can have a pretty wide speed range. It should be pretty bulletproof which is the way I like my gear to be.

I will be making a complete enclosure for the 25mm belt drive very soon. Not only will it make the drive safer and keep crud and small animals out, it should make the drive even more silent. If I am able to build a nearly noiseless drive that will handle 5kW I will feel like this has been a year well spent.
 
skyungjae said:
[youtube]http://youtu.be/qLjBBFCSK2E[/youtube]

A fellow ES member came by to check out my bike and my friend's GNG 1.1 Howler this past weekend. Nothing crazy, but a lot of fun. :wink:

Great video John! Thanks for posting it.
 
LightningRods said:
ladytoast said:
I finally got time to fit them the other weekend, and after sourcing new chains and a new bolt I have it all together. I'm so happy I went for this upgrade, it's a million miles better than the cheese plates that came with the original kit. They are really solid and offer decent adjustment.

My seat of the pants feeling says there is more power without the chain tensioners and it is generally quieter than before (although it could always be quieter still so I'm keeping my ear open for a belt conversion or some sort of chain cover).

So thanks Mike... very happy :)

I can't tell you how happy I am to get these positive reports back from you guys. I looked at the failings in the stock kit and took my best guess on how to fix the shortcomings. I'm glad that it's all worked out so well. More fun stuff coming! :D

I am making 68mm wide sheets, 73mm sheets and once I have my complete kit in production I'll be working on 100mm kits. The 100mm kit can be whatever people want it to be: small block, big block, BB drive, direct drive. I will build to the will of the majority. I've been talking to Wishes in PM about a BB drive with single run BMX 'fixie' to the right side. I'm really fascinated with this idea. Solid, simple, and if you're running enough voltage you can have a pretty wide speed range. It should be pretty bulletproof which is the way I like my gear to be.

I will be making a complete enclosure for the 25mm belt drive very soon. Not only will it make the drive safer and keep crud and small animals out, it should make the drive even more silent. If I am able to build a nearly noiseless drive that will handle 5kW I will feel like this has been a year well spent.

The single speed setup is really tempting you isn't it lol.

Wishes
 
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