Help with installing the last 400 series crystalyte hub.

[dogman dan]

I overlooked the right side or left question. Ideally the vendor tells you, or there is an arrow sticker on the hub. At this point, mount it on the right, which is common, and find out when you start it up. If it runs backwards, you can just remount it the other way. Or you can swap wires on the controller to make it go the other way.

You have the washers and torque arm right, so don't sweat the nut pressure cracking the drops. Letting the axle rotate, or cockeyed install putting a spreading force on the dropouts is the real culprit on cracked dropouts. If you hunt, there is a loooooooooooong thread on this subject in the ebike technical written by a master, Justin.

 

[FMB42]

The exact "nut pressure" is not so much what I'm concerned about.

My concern is that the alloy dropout was hacked and/or filed down. Tightening the nut down properly could possibly result in a cracked dropout due to the possibly "untrue" or uneven hacked/filed surface that it's bearing down on. This and the lack of any radius "work" could possibly cause a catastrophic failure in one of the worst possible places. This possibility, however unlikely, should be given serious consideration and/or attention.

Aluminum can be a very unforgiving material whenever it's stressed in a way that it was never designed for in the first place.

 

[mwhens]

It filed only a verry tiny bit, everythings seems to be alright.
But to come back on the cable left or right thing.
I don't see any arrows on the hub.
Anyone know whats the default way of installing a 408?
If I install it incorrect, changing the positive and negative wil correct this?
I hope I install it correct in the first place.
i wil mail Crystalyte, but not sure if I get a fast response.

 

[alsmith]

I would guess about 30 to 40 Nm torque would be good. That's about 23 to 30 (ft-lbs for us Americans.)

Crystalyte Europe gave me the following info for my 5300 front hub:
40 Nm is good for the motor axle nuts.

 

[dogman dan]

If the C washer is bearing correctly, there is no pressure on the filed area. The point of the filing was to relieve pressure from the part of the dropout not designed for pressure. All the load should be on the C washer.

 

[mwhens]

I have received an mail from Crystalyte.
The cable should be on the left side.
And they advice me to use 40 to 45 n m.

The inner profile of the axle, there is no need to file the axle completly smooth right, I don't have to file the threat away?

 

[FMB42]

If the C washer is bearing correctly, there is no pressure on the filed area. The point of the filing was to relieve pressure from the part of the dropout not designed for pressure. All the load should be on the C washer.

OK, I see that now.

However, I still think that it is very obvious that this motor was not a good candidate for mounting on this, or possibly any, alloy fork due, in part, to a short axle length. Meanwhile, this thread is yet another example of just some of the serious problems that can be encountered when mounting a powerful hub motor into an alloy front fork (as you pointed out from the beginning). These problems are, imo, further acerbated whenever you file, or otherwise modify, the alloy dropouts.

 

[dogman dan]

No way do I recomend alloy forks for anybodies first install. But this one is determined to try, and going about it right. I think he's going to suceed. He's got the right stuff, and installing it properly. The short axles are not that big a deal, as long as he can still get the nut on it.

The question still remains though, will the suspension still function when he is done? Often it does not. It would with the super cheap, sloppy fit steel suspension forks. The alloy ones often just bind if the motor is under power. So you have to let off the throttle to hit a pothole.

 

[FMB42]

I have received an mail from Crystalyte.

And they advice me to use 40 to 45 n m.

Wow, first you're told to torque the axle nuts to 45 ft lbs. (as per the "Crystalyte Home Assembly Guide") and now Crystalyte is telling you to torque them to 29 ft lbs...

What a mess.

I'm out of here.

 

[jimw1960]

A ft-lb and a N-m only differ by a factor of 0.74. So, it's not like the recommended torques are that far apart. Crystalyte is probably recommending a slightly lower torque for the alloy. I would assume the higher 45-ft-lb torque recommendation is for steel dropouts.

 

[mwhens]

The hub is installed.
I'am installing the steering wheel regulator, cycle analyst and switches.
I'am not sure when or how to place the controller.
Is everything waterthight?
The button of the controller does not seem to be waterthight. Or the place where the cables come out.
I can place the cable down, but the switch is stil exposed.
Also the regulator and speed switch do not seem to be watertight.
Any advise on how to install the controller, or things I need to look for?

 

[mwhens]

I have installed everything except the padle sensor.
But it does not work.
I have started a new topic for the problem solving...
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31816

 

[neel]

Hello there,

Sorry to dig up an old thread for my 1st post here, but it would be interesting to know if all the work done here on the torque arm ended being reliable or not.
Unfortunately the other thread (link in the above post) stops without knowing if the bike even finally worked.