Hillzofvalp's 29er Thread... now with custom 63T (cromotor)

Cool. So should I design for .301" rollers or The larger staNdard? I guess larger wouldn't hurt too much.

I'm also wondering if anyone would recommend an I^2C or SPI IMU over an analog one. I want to incorporate self balancing wheelies in the near future, and I want to get the gyro/accelerometer ordered so I can start modeling. I found some useful sketches for a nice digital IMU but I can't determine if it's more complicated than ADC conversions.
 
hillzofvalp said:
I am taking suggestions for a helmet
I really want a brooks saddle with springs.
Click to expand...

Try this for a helmet (AVG Blade):

2009-AGV-Blade-Helmet---2009.jpg


I have one in red.

This for a saddle (Brooks Flyer):

sa158.jpg


I have one just like this in black and love it.
 
7498687522_a17aeb2590_c.jpg


This was a picture when I had the 9C and was testing out the new controller. I thought it was a cool picture so here you go. Over 1700 Miles so far.. which covered probably 3-4 major reworks. I'm a bit sick of the triangle enclosure and am exploring a modular hot swappable 6p26s M1 pack that is mounted to the downtube.

Does anyone have any objection to putting a 26" fork on a 29er frame? I thought it might be a good idea since I'm going to run something <=26" in the back before long to improve efficiency. I'm in the market for a new fork (probably a '12 reba) but unsure on size. I feel like getting a 26" will be more reuseable in my future projects, and it might handle better and withstand braking forces better (less flex).

If you have a nice front suspended fork, is there really any real reason to run large volume tires? I was reading the technical manual for rockshox, and it seems I may be able to push a 2150mm circumference tire and still be within the envolope/clearance specifications. I mention this because is that IF i get a 26" fork, I'm not in a hurry to dismantle the 700c DH wheel I just made. Schwalbe makes some Ebike rated tires (energizer plus) which have 3mm puncture protection which I'm attracted to for just front wheel.

thanks guys
 
Please critique this 63T gear. I plugged and chugged some equations for the correct geometry for the teeth. I have not decided on a final spoke pattern but here's my latest design.. easy to mill... doesn't look too bad. strong?

7524039040_6fa78a1e0d_z.jpg

7524038676_afbbab50d6_z.jpg
 
hillzofvalp said:
Please critique this 63T gear. I plugged and chugged some equations for the correct geometry for the teeth. I have not decided on a final spoke pattern but here's my latest design.. easy to mill... doesn't look too bad. strong?

7524039040_6fa78a1e0d_z.jpg

7524038676_afbbab50d6_z.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks great, as long as the clearances are adequate to let the chain in and out without binding. That's definitely optimized for chain keeping rather than shifting. If you want to shift it, shorten the teeth like 25% (or shorten them just on the dead spots of the pedal stroke-- where the chainring will be passing the front derailleur when the pedals are and 12 and 6 o'clock).

Chalo
 
Wasn't planning on doing any front shifting.. I no longer have a deraileur bolt nor am at low speeds long enough to justify more gears. Good to know though.

I've been trying to come up with a cool chainring spoke design and am not very creative with it as I would like to be. Does anyone have any suggestions or reference patterns?
 
I haven't been updating this thread very often. Since the cromotor has been installed I have put about 1200 miles on the bike. Around 2400 miles total. The bushings in the fork are completely shot.. causes some knocking sounds and flex under braking. They are replaceable but I'm not sure its worth my time or effort for a 2006 dual air fork.. they can be finicky.. messy to rebuild (tried it). This fork is not designed for this kind of braking load. Maybe on a 26er frame it would be more appropriate... I think most of the damage was done with my 9C when my regen was pretty weak and used a lot of hydraulic braking. I brake primarily with Cromotor now...

I'm going rebuild the rear wheel after I test the water cooling channels. I hope to run a 21-23" diameter wheel (using motorcycle rim and spokes) for use in my honda mb-5 conversion linked below. This would necessitate rebuilding the front wheel on my 29er to fix the geometry issue. We will see how it goes. I hope to use the surly as a winter commuter (Low speed).. so I can swap this motor off the mb-5, change the tire to a studded tire.. and be on my way. :) No cooling holes :wink:

Speaking of winter.. I am thinking of putting some big cylindrical resistors in my handle bars as warmers..

A lot of fun! Here's my beloved cromotor stator in a mill prepping for the chill rings! You can comment on that project here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43142

[youtube]m_GofIWB1Hs[/youtube]
 
did you ever got to produce the 63T front gear? I would be happy to purchase such a gear for 104bc 4-bolt system. :mrgreen:
Maximum I have is a 52T front gear with 14T in the rear. No pedalling above 25mph.... :cry:
 
hillzofvalp said:
If you really want it,I will manufacturer it. Pm me with a price. I don't really have the time right now to make it for my own use... But to sell it,., :shock:
Click to expand...

:) Just for fun!
I will send you a PM.
 
pushing 2600 miles total.. Just made this 63T chainring for 1/8" chain. I love how it turned out.. I want to paint some of it black. AFter all this work I don't think I can justify selling it for anything reasonable to the average chainring customer.

Can't wait to try it out.. debating on doing it now with all the rain.. :(

I should be doing something like 80-90 RPM at 30mph.when I go to a smaller wheel it'll be more like 26-27mph optimized.

2-4mm clearance to the frame.. Also got lucky with chain: I used a full length 1/8" bmx/track chain.. didn't have to adjust chain tension. 10 minute swap :)
 

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Epic build man,
Great work.
Creativity, And craftsmanship :)
How does she feel for torque?

Cheers

Sam
 
regarding WITH huge chainring? I just tried it for a couple miles in the pouring rain and I found that my top end is better as expected. I'm going to take it on a long ride at 28mph constant and see if I can get down to 25Wh/mile (remember, huge knobby tires, high off ground, etc.) with the new capabilities.

I just had a vision of putting some ergonomic trials bars on the bike and taking it for exercise runs at 30 mph! way more fun than 17mph!

Overall, I'm very happy with the fit and finish of the chain ring. I almost didn't make it out of the shop with a finished product... I actually was going to mill the other side and run 3/32" chain but I like it how it is now with 1/8" chain. makes more sense for high torque. Thanks for the complements.. I enjoy doing this stuff very much
 
hillzofvalp said:
pushing 2600 miles total.. Just made this 63T chainring for 1/8" chain. I love how it turned out.. I want to paint some of it black. AFter all this work I don't think I can justify selling it for anything reasonable to the average chainring customer.
Click to expand...

Lovely work man. Would have been a shame if you sold it to me for whatever amount of money. Beautifull = priceless :mrgreen:
 
So all up how do you feel about 29er Ebike conversations compared to other sizes.
Every time I go into a bike shop and see 29er bikes I can't help but feel they would make an awesome ebike, is that gut feel well founded in your opinion?
 
I really depends. The BIggest thing I regret is that the longer front fork and wheel increase the force (from braking) on the joint at the headtube and steerer. There is a lot of flex under braking... And it wears the bushings in the shock down very quickly. There are a lot of pros and cons.. I can go 45 mph on 66V.. 29" Better for inexperienced offroaders if I had to guess. Nice being high up and having good visibility

disadvantages also include not as good cornering, being too high up that you feel like a boat. Also, 26er wheels will always be a bit more durable and efficient.

I'm actually thinkig of selling my bike just because I want to invest in other projects. if you're interested in a hard tail that has nicish dropouts and is proven to work well at 5.5kW for 1000-2500 miles then let me know. It's a nice 4130 Surly frame
 
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