INFINEON CONTROLLERS FOR DUMMIES

Hey guys
There are a lot of these Infineon threads going. . .
To be honest I have only read some of them. They seem to be overlapping.

Which is the best one for me to post some pictures about modding one of these tiny tiny 48V 15A 350W units ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-350W-brushl...11332QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

I swapped out all the cabling to match crystalyte plugs
Wired it for CA
Found the 6 mosfets to be P60NF02 (barf 60V 60A 110W) so ordered some more 4110's
Gona solder the shunt up to 35A old school style
Lower the LVC from 41.5V to 36.0V with a fixed resistor

Gona run it at 44.4V 35A and see if it pops
This will be a fixed setup for my wifes bike so no need for voltage mods.

I was going to do a firmware update but I am hesitant.
I would prefer *not* to brick the little guy before I even test it :roll:
Where is the reverse engineering thread for the firmware? I can read MCU assembly like nobody's business. :mrgreen:

-methods
edit: fixed link
 
Guys,

All 3 large caps are 470uf 100V.

Start me gently, can't I just stick some wires in some holes and see what happens without too much risk? If so, please tell me a few to try. Adding the com port isn't out of the question, but like I said 6 months ago, the last thing I need is another hobby to keep my mind racing and unable to sleep. It's not a matter of can't, just don't want to, so I can stick to mechanically oriented stuff, especially due to my poor soldering skills. If I can buy a couple of tricked out controllers, like I've been asking to do since I blew my only CA ready controller out of frustration in Nov, then I could spare one or two of these to have you experts check out if you want.

It makes sense that a manufacturer would just build a bunch of mostly identical boards and put the same processor and software, and then only unlock certain stuff and connect a few remaining wires based on customer needs.

John
 
philf said:
How severely are those transistors sanded, BTW? I *have* seen someone sand a transistor case to remove enough plastic to improve heat dissipation to the air - can't believe that makes a huge difference when the thing is on a heat sink.

That would be the chinese EE group huddled at the back of the class who didn't take thermo, or it just didn't "click" for any of them, just like the electricity part of Physics 101 didn't "click" for me. Anything requiring actual studying to learn was rejected from my pathway. :D

John
 
methods said:
Found the 6 mosfets to be P60NF02 (barf 60V 60A 110W) so ordered some more 4110's
You may want top consider the IRFB3077PbF (2.8mOhms) or IRFB3207ZPbF (3.3mOhms) instead of the irf4110 for your mod, since you won't be using it anywhere close to 100V. These are 75V parts that will outperform the 4110's at lower voltages. And if you stick with 44V, the IRFB3006PBF (60V) with 2.1mOhms would be even better, but I don't know if these are available yet, as they are IR's newest offerings. They have more bonding wires than the older parts, and this one (irfb3006) is rated at 195A continous, and that's even considering the package limitations!! The old TO-220's used to be limited to 75A because of bond wire limitations. At any rate, the lower resistance using any of these parts will help in reducing heat generation which would be a problem with such a small box.


methods said:
I was going to do a firmware update but I am hesitant.
I would prefer *not* to brick the little guy before I even test it :roll:
It's hard to resist doing this sort of thing... :lol:


methods said:
Where is the reverse engineering thread for the firmware? I can read MCU assembly like nobody's business. :mrgreen:
Sounds like another bit-litterate guy itching to hack away at that hidden code! I prefer doing things from scratch as this often turns out being less head-ache inducing in the long run. Good to know your skills though, Methods. I already knew about your wood-working abilities of course... :wink:
 
I'm on the same page as Methods... I have on of those tiny controllers sitting open on my desk. Other than proving that it works, and that the programming header works, it's still sitting in my "itchy" pile. I have too many other projects on the go, but every time I pick that little guy up I just giggle. Uh, yeah. Giggle. It's just so damned cute.

I have the heavier wire, a different shunt, and 6 4110s sitting right next to it. Along with an unpopulated switching PSU board :mrgreen: . (My desire is to run it at either 40 or 60V interchangeably). But something makes me want to use it "as is" for a bit, in order to get a better feel for the out-of-box performance. It was insanely cold the day I took it out for a few km.

Methods is right, though - hacking with this little guy overlaps the discussion of the "original" 12 FET controller, but the objective and motivation for doing so are different enough to want to keep the related material together. This is where sub-forums would come in handy.
 
Thanks for the links Pat. I will order some of those and check them out.
I defaulted to the 4110's because the price has come down on them. I think I only paid ~$3 each.

So I torture tested that little guy last night.
Wired up a Nine Continent motor on my test mule (pictures later) and hammered the throttle on and off, on and off, up and down the street.
I had soldered up the corners of the shunt to bring the current limit up to ~20A from 15A.

The one bad I noticed was the quote unquote "smooth start" which sucked horrably.
I did not time it but every time I turned the throttle there was near a 1 second delay before power came on
So slow was the power ramp that I would have time to think that the controller was dead :?

I am used to the instant throttle response of the Kelly which you learn to depend on for doing technical riding.

The goods were plenty. The little box really puts downt the power! I was bursting to 24A with plenty of power
After my hardest punishment I was only able to get the controller to what I would consider "warm". No where near "hot".

When I take this thing to level 2 it is going to be the shizzle.

Just wish they had made the holes in the board bigger. . . . Hard to stuff 4 gauge wire into those little holes :mrgreen:

-methods
 
So is it safe to try jumpering some different empty pin holes to ground? Any suggestions to try, or warnings.

Also, regarding my fets, this controller runs hotter than any controller I've had....always hotter than the motor. Does that mean crappy fets, or maybe just higher resistance and I can go to higher voltage? Since I have 100V caps, is there an easy way to test for max voltage before tying in to the programming and without blowing needlessly blowing the controller.

Please help me with a few baby steps first. I thought the Dummies thread is the appropriate place to ask my enoob stuff.

John
 
methods said:
Thanks for the links Pat. I will order some of those and check them out.
I defaulted to the 4110's because the price has come down on them. I think I only paid ~$3 each.

So I torture tested that little guy last night.
Wired up a Nine Continent motor on my test mule (pictures later) and hammered the throttle on and off, on and off, up and down the street.
I had soldered up the corners of the shunt to bring the current limit up to ~20A from 15A.

The one bad I noticed was the quote unquote "smooth start" which sucked horrably.
I did not time it but every time I turned the throttle there was near a 1 second delay before power came on
So slow was the power ramp that I would have time to think that the controller was dead :?

I am used to the instant throttle response of the Kelly which you learn to depend on for doing technical riding.

The goods were plenty. The little box really puts downt the power! I was bursting to 24A with plenty of power
After my hardest punishment I was only able to get the controller to what I would consider "warm". No where near "hot".

When I take this thing to level 2 it is going to be the shizzle.

Just wish they had made the holes in the board bigger. . . . Hard to stuff 4 gauge wire into those little holes :mrgreen:

-methods


method.. Ask Bob for the 4110.. (the real IR 4110).. He ordered many of them.. i think he can sale them for 2$ each.. :wink: I bought 40 of them from him and a couple of gate driver IR2101...

Doc
 
I dont know Bob. :(
$2 each? That is a great price.
Thanks for the tip.

I bought mine from Digikey so at least I am confident in their legitimacy.
At work I have been made very aware of the counterfeit product coming form overseas.
A lot of trouble with government contracts. . . Bad chips going into high consequence systems.

-methods
 
methods said:
I dont know Bob. :(
$2 each? That is a great price.
Thanks for the tip.

I bought mine from Digikey so at least I am confident in their legitimacy.
At work I have been made very aware of the counterfeit product coming form overseas.
A lot of trouble with government contracts. . . Bad chips going into high consequence systems.

-methods

Methods.. you dont know bobmcree ??? look here:http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8728

He is a sure 100% source of 4110 mosfet and the new 150V similar to the 4110 (for the same price)
IRFB4115, apparently the next up from the 4110.
150v, 104A, 9.3mOhm and comes in a TO-220AB package that fits most controllers


and now? :wink:

Doc
 
Running hot usually indicates crappy FETs.

The startup delay might be partly hardware. Trace the throttle line and look for a capacitor.

On the hall signal for the CA, I had this thought:
The gate drive for the low side FETs will be exactly the same timing as the hall sensor signals.
There must be a 5v line out of the processor that goes to the low side gate driver. This would be a buffered version of the hall signal.
 
On two of my crystalytes and my Kelly I just tap right into the hall signals for my CA input.
Never noticed a difference
Through all that 100V, 420 degree abuse, never blew a hall sensor either
(though I did melt the solder off the leads twice)

-methods
 
fechter said:
The gate drive for the low side FETs will be exactly the same timing as the hall sensor signals.
There must be a 5v line out of the processor that goes to the low side gate driver. This would be a buffered version of the hall signal.

I'm really going to have to make a video to demonstrate the problem, here :). The signal going into the gate driver is going to exhibit the same behaviour as the raw hall signal. You're certainly going to get a pulse that you (or the CA) can count, but there is no guarantee that the pulse is proof of forward motion.

When I was trying to sort out the best place to tap in to a Shenzhen controller for speed last year, I was new to how the controller actually worked. I wired up a little breadboard with LEDs (and dropping resistors) on it, and tied directly into the hall sensors so I could observe the commutation sequence in action. Then, after seeing how THAT worked, I wired my counter into one of the signals and rotated the wheel exactly one revolution by hand. I Counted 23 pulses. Great! (I thought).

So I hooked everything up to use the hall pulse to drive my speedometer/odometer. Moving the wheel by hand (again), I confirmed that the counts were consistent with the wheel revolution. So, the next test was to power the wheel (low throttle, so I could keep track of the valve stem - which I was using as a visual reference for a rev counter) and move it through 100 revolutions - expecting, at the end, that I'd see 2300 hall counts... But NO! WAY more!

Thinking I'd buggered something up in translating this to a real circuit, I spun the wheel by hand (again) - this time through only 10 revolutions. 230 pulses, as should be. Hmmm...

Thinking that noise was the problem, I buffered the raw hall signal (through a transistor, and with a small cap and pull-up resistor on the output). This didn't change the result. The count was consistently too high (and I suspect more or less, depending on how much throttle is applied). And THAT got me thinking again... I *could* have tried a bigger cap (the signal I was creating was being fed into an Schmitt trigger before getting to the counter, so any squishyness to the signal would be cleaned up - but then I worried that TOO big of a cap would cause a problem at higher revs - keeping the cap charged, and dropping signals). I put an LED back on the circuit so that I could see when the sensor was active, and then rotated the wheel to the point where the LED only just came on. Then I backed off a hair. Locking the front brake so the bike wouldn't move, I applied some throttle - and got the expected juddering complaining sound that one expects to get (until the controller realizes that the motor is stalled and stops trying). The bike hadn't moved an inch, but I had enough hall counts to suggest that I'd just rocketed a hundred feet in a few seconds...

That's when "digital Phil" said, "to heck with this - I need PROOF the bike is moving before I generate ANY pulses", and that's what prompted me to add a 2 chip digital filter (two cheap and readily available logic chips, actually) to the equation. I now get a hall count that I can take to the bank.

This is actually a subject that will warrant a separate thread - I'll put together some more details, the circuit, and how it is used it later this week (may "day job" is getting in the way :-(). I've actually integrated this little 2 chip circuit into the end of the cable running from my motor into the controller. This way, I don't have to keep fooling around with individual controllers to get a reliable signal - it' "part of the wheel", and works with ANY of my controllers. (Doesn't help the freewheeling motor guys, though). Will document what it does - and I've included a light show in the final unit (it was too cool not to - I like das blinkenlights :)).

Before everybody gets their knickers in a knot, though... It's possible that not ALL setups will exhibit this behaviour. If your wheel contains hall sensors that latch (and don't unlatch until they see a magnetic reversal), then you're probably fine. The ones in the GM motor don't do that, and this is what started this whole "experience".
 
OK, after my biggest climb on my 40mi ride today, about 2 miles at 7-8% grade, I stopped at the peak and felt the motor and controller after running WOT the entire climb. The motor was barely warm, since the grade was right at the limit where motor ran just fast enough to keep the speed at the maximum for pedal assist. My issue was with the controller, which has good air exposure, but was hot despite the significant surface area of the large AL case. That's telling me my controller is WAY too inefficient. I assume changing the FETs will remedy that, so I want to try and order some from Bob. Since I have 100V caps already, is there anything else I need to or should change? Will I have to change some software settings to run a higher voltage?

How about throwing a Dummy a lifeline, since the controller trafficker doesn't seem to want to sell me any tricked out controllers?

John
 
Read Zap Pats post about some of the lower on resistance fets.
I did not catch what voltage you are going to run but if it is fairly low, you could have 2.3mOhm on resistance :shock: (awesome)

I am going to put the 4110's in mine (since I already ordered them) but I am definitely going to pick up some of those newer fets for my next low voltage build.

-methods
 
hi john
lets have the spec on the Infineon you used
volts
amps
watts(if it was given a watt rating)
fets
number of fets
caps you already said they are 100v
motor you were using

power readings on the run if you have any
av.amps
av.watts
answers to the first batch of questions(fets may be difficult if you have not taken the board out of the case if you have they are not sanded) should solve the reason as to why your controller got so hot.
hear from you soon
Geoff
 
Geoff,

The controller is the 60V that I linked above, which others confirmed looks to be Infineon, and has the MCU the guys are hacking into. The 15 FETs are sanded, so no info. Shunt doesn't help as it's 3 legged. The motor factory rep tells me 73V max with 50 LVC. The only current info I have is that the 100kg e-motorcycle the motor/controller combo is meant for goes 70kph with 80kg rider and 30A, so I assume it's a 30A continuous controller. I don't think it's more or I'd get better hill climbing. I'm 240lbs and I've had it up as high as 80kph with a tailwind with a 20" tire.

The motor is pictured and discussed here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8604. I'm 240lbs and I've had it up as high as 80kph with a tailwind with a 20" tire and my lithium pack at 70V, so the factory numbers seem to jive. The motor runs so cool that I know it has a lot more to give as long as I don't juice it with too much more current while letting the rpms bog way down on some of the 20%+ inclines that I contend with regularly.

Overall I don't think the price/performance is matched by anything, except maybe those Kollmorgen factor error motors when they could be had for $30. I'm trying help the factory guys to understand that people really will want to put these on bikes, so I can get more bike friendly motor side covers and not have to modify them. If I can improve their controller, that's a bonus.

The bottom line is that the controller is always hotter than the motor, and that means I'm just wasting power for no reason. Plus that heat tells me something is running harder than it should, putting long-term durability in question. While I'm making changes to reduce heat, I'd like to add the flexibility of a wider voltage range and having more current on demand too. 36-72V nominal (30-84V limits) would be great, as would regen, and other goodies the hackers are discovering in this processor. I even have plug in CA's if I can figure out how to hook them up to the controller. I have 5 of these motor/controller combo's, and I'm willing to sacrifice one, but electronics isn't my thing and I don't want to do something stupid and wasteful, so any advice/guidance is greatly appreciated.

John
 
Can I or can't I try just jumpering some of these interesting named empty holes on the board to ground without risk or much risk?

If my BK is expecting 12V+ as the brake shutdown on my controller, could connecting it to battery negative (assuming that's the same as ground) still be regen? Any risk in trying at least that?

John
 
John in CR said:
Can I or can't I try just jumpering some of these interesting named empty holes on the board to ground without risk or much risk?

If my BK is expecting 12V+ as the brake shutdown on my controller, could connecting it to battery negative (assuming that's the same as ground) still be regen? Any risk in trying at least that?

John
in answer to that be carful post a closeup of the pads you are thinking of trying.
one not to do is if there is a brake pad seprate nbut close to the brake wire that is probably for a positive feed, on the 12fets it is marked ebs+ on your board I see a pad marked bk lamp this may be the same thing. it is used for scooters that are designed to look like small motobikes vespa type if you know the name. these need a brake light so the controller can use some of the power fed to brake light to activate the braking system.
before you try post a list of the names of the pads you want to try we will see if we can identify them, some have been identifyed but not documented on the forum yet, there so many.

Geoff
 
Thanks Geoff,

Here's a pic up closer. Sorry I can't get the camera to do any better. I've been putting that upgrade off for long enough.

Yes, a small electric motorcycle is exactly what this is for. What I have is a few sets of the 60V controller, DC/DC converter, and hub motor. Other than phase, hall, and throttle wires, the controller has a single wire connected to BK on the board. I am told that is the electric brake cutoff that is expecting a +12V input from the brake light wiring.

My plan is to replace all 15 fets with 4110's with the expectation of it running cooler, and enabling 72V nominal operation, which is more convenient for me. Since it already has 100V caps, does anything more HAVE to be done? eg Is it likely that software settings must change too?

Regarding trying different pins, can I start with simply using my multimeter to make sure there's not a big voltage across them? Are all grounds the same, ie just battery "-"? The first thing I would want to try is BK to ground. If I'm lucky, that's regen braking like on those other Infineon boards, and +12V signal is just a cutoff. Any suggestions on things to try?

John

15fetInfineonclose.JPG
 
John in CR said:
Thanks Geoff,

Here's a pic up closer. Sorry I can't get the camera to do any better. I've been putting that upgrade off for long enough.

Yes, a small electric motorcycle is exactly what this is for. What I have is a few sets of the 60V controller, DC/DC converter, and hub motor. Other than phase, hall, and throttle wires, the controller has a single wire connected to BK on the board. I am told that is the electric brake cutoff that is expecting a +12V input from the brake light wiring.

My plan is to replace all 15 fets with 4110's with the expectation of it running cooler, and enabling 72V nominal operation, which is more convenient for me. Since it already has 100V caps, does anything more HAVE to be done? eg Is it likely that software settings must change too?

Regarding trying different pins, can I start with simply using my multimeter to make sure there's not a big voltage across them? Are all grounds the same, ie just battery "-"? The first thing I would want to try is BK to ground. If I'm lucky, that's regen braking like on those other Infineon boards, and +12V signal is just a cutoff. Any suggestions on things to try?

John
hi
if you are going to use regen remember it only works with systems without a freewheel involved, also if you are going up to 72 v you will have to do the regen over 48v mod knuckles has talked about as the controllers MCU program is programed by the factory not to use regen if a batt pack larger than 60v is in use.

SL is speed limit: limits speed but gives you ful torque
CR is cruise control use a momentary make switch on that, torn the throttle hit cruise control and relise the throttle the motor carry's on going as if you still had the throttle turned good for thumb throttles. pressing cruise controll again, turning the throttle or applying the brake will cancel cruise control.
TA is for a pedelec sensor, hall driven latching it overides the throttle if it sees a signal and is pedle rpm sensitive over the three speed settings
the thing to do is look for pads with tracks that go to the MCU with a resistor on them probably 1 kohm this will be a switch to GND more than likely.

Geoff
 
Fishmasterdan said:
Another question;

I purchased a different throttle. How do I match up the wires correctly??
hi
only hall will work, asuming that red is +5v,black is 0v or GND and green is the signal wire on the controller.
most vendors should be able to tell you which these wires are on the throttle.

Geoff
 
Guys.. just a question,

How should i get that famous custom 18 mosfet controller without mosfet?

I tried to contact Keywin and Bob, 5 times without any answers..

:?

.. that is simple...: I WANT ONE :mrgreen:

Doc
 
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