dogman dan
1 PW
No need to ban him then, he vanishes himself. 8)
Also possible, he doesn't really have good access to the internet.
Also possible, he doesn't really have good access to the internet.
KIT I BOUGHT ON EBAY DOESN'T WORK!!!!
- Thread starter 327ren
- Start date
nutnspecial
10 MW
thetimmy said:
Was Rodney refering to this post? I'm confused.
Rodney64
100 kW
nutspecial said:
I was just trying to get him to repost but he's not biting.
dogman dan
1 PW
No, he's gone. The tough love on Endless Sphere is not easy to swallow, and, he might not have internet, or got sick.
I talk to guys every day at work. They are over 70 years, and go to hospital at least monthly. They have a dream, but are living a nightmare. So every few months I see one of them again, saying I just got back, now my left side don't work, etc.
I talk to guys every day at work. They are over 70 years, and go to hospital at least monthly. They have a dream, but are living a nightmare. So every few months I see one of them again, saying I just got back, now my left side don't work, etc.
Rodney64
100 kW
He hasn't visited since the 29th of May
USER STATISTICS
Joined:Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:04 pmLast visited:Fri May 29, 2015 10:08 amTotal posts:1 | Search user’s posts
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(1 Post / 100.00% of user’s posts)Most active topic:KIT I BOUGHT ON EBAY DOESN'T WORK!!!!
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USER STATISTICS
Joined:Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:04 pmLast visited:Fri May 29, 2015 10:08 amTotal posts:1 | Search user’s posts
(0.00% of all posts / 0.00 posts per day) Most active forum:E-Bike Technical
(1 Post / 100.00% of user’s posts)Most active topic:KIT I BOUGHT ON EBAY DOESN'T WORK!!!!
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I guess you must be seeing a different date/time because of the time zone you're in relative to me, but this is a copy/paste of that section of 327ren's profile, below. The date/time stamp on the only post is the same as the last-visited, too, so unless he didn't log in, he hasn't even bothered to come back to see if anyone answered. My guess is he didn't want help, just wanted to complain about it pointlessly. :/
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327ren
1 mW
HELP!
Last year I purchased a 48v 1000w ebike conversion kit for my bicycle. Two kits, in fact. I also got three controllers to go with them. Well, due to my incompetence, I shorted/blew/burned/whatever ALL THREE controllers. (I know what I did wrong: I did not insulate the wires coming out of the controller within the conduit box properly.) The motor is fine. However, I wanted to purchase replacement controllers. I was in for a rude shock. All the new ebike controllers for that voltage/wattage contain ports which DO NOT correspond with my motor and throttle. That is, they correspond the the yellow/blue/green phases and the 5 wire port coming out of the hub motor, but everything else is incompatible. The seller is in contact with me, but seems confused.
The new controllers have these weird ports for cruise control, three-speeds, anti-theft, self-study, etc.
Here is what I have: a full twist throttle with a white plastic female port containing red, white and blue cables, and two smaller black ports containing green/grey and yellow/black cables respectively. The controller I received does not have anyhting like that, and a Google search did not help much. Also, my old controllers had a red/black white plastic port for the headlamp, which I need.
So how do I rig this up? Failing that, is there anyone here who would be willing to fix my old controllers?
Last year I purchased a 48v 1000w ebike conversion kit for my bicycle. Two kits, in fact. I also got three controllers to go with them. Well, due to my incompetence, I shorted/blew/burned/whatever ALL THREE controllers. (I know what I did wrong: I did not insulate the wires coming out of the controller within the conduit box properly.) The motor is fine. However, I wanted to purchase replacement controllers. I was in for a rude shock. All the new ebike controllers for that voltage/wattage contain ports which DO NOT correspond with my motor and throttle. That is, they correspond the the yellow/blue/green phases and the 5 wire port coming out of the hub motor, but everything else is incompatible. The seller is in contact with me, but seems confused.
The new controllers have these weird ports for cruise control, three-speeds, anti-theft, self-study, etc.
Here is what I have: a full twist throttle with a white plastic female port containing red, white and blue cables, and two smaller black ports containing green/grey and yellow/black cables respectively. The controller I received does not have anyhting like that, and a Google search did not help much. Also, my old controllers had a red/black white plastic port for the headlamp, which I need.
So how do I rig this up? Failing that, is there anyone here who would be willing to fix my old controllers?
SlowCo
1 MW
Best you can do is make photo's of your old and newly received controller with the connections clearly visible and post them up here for the experts on here (I'm not...) to see them. If you have a connection schedule/diagram of the controller(s) post them also.
wesnewell
100 GW
And fill in your profile location. Instructions here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
dogman dan
1 PW
Ideally, get a photo from the vendor, that identifies the wires and plugs.
All you need to run the bike may be the 5 wires to the motor, two to the battery, and three to throttle. All the rest you can ignore. some will be all kinds of things, like e brakes, reverse switch, even power to lights.
If your kit came with a display ,no telling if your new controller will work with it.
All you need to run the bike may be the 5 wires to the motor, two to the battery, and three to throttle. All the rest you can ignore. some will be all kinds of things, like e brakes, reverse switch, even power to lights.
If your kit came with a display ,no telling if your new controller will work with it.
327ren
1 mW
I am going to post pictures soon. But can anyone tell me what the "key wire" in a Sunwin controller is, or what "V+" stands for? These are the instructions I got from the Amazon seller, please help! Thanks.
1. Make sure your battery / power supply can deliver enough power.;
2. Plug in the Black and Red power line;
3. Engage self-study wire;
4. Connect the key wire (Orange) to +V and the motor should start spinning;
5. Let it spin for awhile for the controller to learn the phase angle of the Hall probes;
6. Disconnect self-study wire and the motor should stop, DO NOT ramp up throttle at this stage as it will make the controller unlearn step 5;
7. Disengage Key to let the controller save the configuration, DO NOT disconnect the Power wires!;
8. Reconnect the Key wire, and self learning is done, motor should now respond to throttle command.;
9. Configuration is now permanently stored, power cable can now be unplugged without erasing the self-learned configuration.
1. Make sure your battery / power supply can deliver enough power.;
2. Plug in the Black and Red power line;
3. Engage self-study wire;
4. Connect the key wire (Orange) to +V and the motor should start spinning;
5. Let it spin for awhile for the controller to learn the phase angle of the Hall probes;
6. Disconnect self-study wire and the motor should stop, DO NOT ramp up throttle at this stage as it will make the controller unlearn step 5;
7. Disengage Key to let the controller save the configuration, DO NOT disconnect the Power wires!;
8. Reconnect the Key wire, and self learning is done, motor should now respond to throttle command.;
9. Configuration is now permanently stored, power cable can now be unplugged without erasing the self-learned configuration.
wesnewell
100 GW
If you mean the +V in step 4, I'd assume it means the positive side of your battery. I'd assume the key wire is for a key switch, if you want to use one to enable/disable the controller. Otherwise just leave it connected to the positive side of the battery.
327ren
1 mW
My battery plug only has one positive and one negative, how do I connect this third wire?
Ykick
1 GW
327ren said:
Attach the ignition + (pos) joined to the main + (pos) battery lead. That way it'll come on when connected.
Or, route it through a switch if you want but I just plug/unplug the whole pack and leave extra parts out of the mix.
BikeFanatic
1 kW
327- Why not just buy a throttle from the same vendor you bought the controller from, then you have compatable throttle? since you are in touch with them ask them if they sell a compatibe throttle ( and 3 speed switch if you like)
But if you do post pictures and can do some soldering The forum can help you figure out the controller. I have done this myself many times but dont just willy nilly hook up wires or you could blow something. I always use a fuse( between the battery and controller) when I am figuring out new contoller/ motor wire/ throttle connections in case I hook up something very wrong.
But if you do post pictures and can do some soldering The forum can help you figure out the controller. I have done this myself many times but dont just willy nilly hook up wires or you could blow something. I always use a fuse( between the battery and controller) when I am figuring out new contoller/ motor wire/ throttle connections in case I hook up something very wrong.
327ren
1 mW
Thanks for all the replies. They are having Chinese New Year so I have to wait for further replies from their tech support and also it takes time for shipping the throttles.
I think I have figured out the throttle set up. I need to know about setting up the self-study and step 4. How do I attach the key wire to the battery? Do I attach the red positive from the controller to the key wire and then attach both simultaneously to the battery positive lead?
How do I attach a fuse between the controller and whatever? I don't wanna short yet another controller.
I will post pics later, if you guys can post a diagram that would be great.
I think I have figured out the throttle set up. I need to know about setting up the self-study and step 4. How do I attach the key wire to the battery? Do I attach the red positive from the controller to the key wire and then attach both simultaneously to the battery positive lead?
How do I attach a fuse between the controller and whatever? I don't wanna short yet another controller.
I will post pics later, if you guys can post a diagram that would be great.
wesnewell
100 GW
Solder the key wire in parallel with the controller main positive wire. This is how I have mine.
327ren
1 mW
Ok, I received the attached file frok the seller. On the last page of that PDF the ports are labled. Which one of those is the key sire, and thanks for the diagram.
wesnewell
100 GW
The Lock cable.
327ren
1 mW
Thanks for the reply. Now I have a new dilemma.
The ebike repair guy I took it to told me the following:
He plugged the two self study cables together, then he attached the battery positive and negative cables to the corresponding ones on the controller. When he did that, he said that there was a huge spark. It blew out the ring terminal on the negative lead to the controller and smoked the plug.
Why did that happen? Was it because he plugged the self study cables before connecting to the battery?
The ebike repair guy I took it to told me the following:
He plugged the two self study cables together, then he attached the battery positive and negative cables to the corresponding ones on the controller. When he did that, he said that there was a huge spark. It blew out the ring terminal on the negative lead to the controller and smoked the plug.
Why did that happen? Was it because he plugged the self study cables before connecting to the battery?
wesnewell
100 GW
Possibly, but I'd guess he reversed the battery connectors if it burned them up. One should always check polarity with a meter on a new install.
327ren
1 mW
Thanks for the reply. Is there anyway to test polarity on the controller end without plugging it into the battery?
wesnewell
100 GW
The red wire should be positive and the black negative. You could always open it and make sure they aren't reversed by looking at it. Probably very unlikely to be reversed on the controller though.
327ren
1 mW
What does it mean to solder the key wire in parallel with the controller positive? What if I just twisted the two together?
Another thing: could I connect my head lamp directly to the main pos and neg of the controller? Or which terminal connection on the controller corresponds for that as denoted in my attached PDF?
Another thing: could I connect my head lamp directly to the main pos and neg of the controller? Or which terminal connection on the controller corresponds for that as denoted in my attached PDF?
wesnewell
100 GW
I posted a diagram of this a few post back. Look at it. If you light will work at the battery voltage, yes you can. Otherwise you can't. The controller doesn't appear to have a connector for a light. And if it did, both would have to be the same voltage. You might check the voltage on the anti theft cable and see if it's the voltage you need, although it might not provide enough power to drive a headlamp. There are several headlights on ebay that will work on 12-85V. Get one of them if you want it to work off pack voltage.
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