LCD screen

Absolutely not! It's hard enough to convert metric to foot/lbs for gear you buy (I have a spreadsheet to convert size (length x width x height and kg's to lbs). I just can't wrap my head around kmh on the fly when I'm riding (multiply by .6, multiply by .6). ;) But I'm serious...
 
I got mine in a day or 2 ago. It has some scratched and QC issues like all stuff you get off ebay..But I have it powered up on my desk with 20s 18650 and it looks pretty cool. It comes with a tiny temp sensor probe you can cut and make longer if you wish. very easy to install, if you don't want the turn signals its only 3 wires you have to run to your dash.

I have yet to try to trim pot or speedo.. its raining today so I drove the jeep.
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Skeetab you've gotta post a youtube video like you always do :D Can you check how the headlight mechanism works? Is it just spliced in parallel with the headlight so when it gets power it turns that icon on? One last thing.. can you check how accurate the voltage is compared with a true multimeter reading?

The kph is killing me.. I dont mind the celsius half as much as I do the kph.. torn between buying it now or holding out. This fits perfectly into my custom frame.. would look just like the stealth bomber has the CA in the frame.
 
Ya, all I have right now is 2 Klein meters the mm1000 and the mm200 and they both say 81.9v while the display shows 82.0 even. Once I get home I can use a better meter and check in the thousandths. The lighting circuit is confusing me I don't want to fry the thing but the website says its rated for 10-80vdc. and there is only 1 wire so it must use the ground from the input?

The km/h doesn't bother me too much as long as the trim pot in the back can adjust the speed to be accurate in mph. Also when you build a housing for this unit you can always just cover up the "K" in Km/h so it just says "m/h".

Just a thought.

I leave for a camping trip to the white mountains tomorrow morning and I've yet to pack, Someone may beat me to a proper test of this thing!
 
jateureka said:

I got one of those for a different purpose from a different supplier. It came badly cross-threaded on 2 of the bolts (the clamping one, and the one holding the cross bar to the clamp).
I got a replacement from them but shipping was very slow for the original faulty one and the replacement - 9 weeks to get a working clamp.
If you order it may be worth asking them to check before sending if ordering.
 
skeetab5780 said:
I got mine in a day or 2 ago. It has some scratched and QC issues like all stuff you get off ebay..

I thought mine was scratched too then realised it was just the plastic film that protects the glass that was scratched, peeled the film off and the glass itself is fine.
 
Someone asked me how to adjust the speed correclty, so i thought I'd post e few ways to do it here for anyone else who is unsure.
A few options:
1. If you still have the old meter then connect both meters, have the e-bike with the motorised wheel lifted off the ground and apply throttle and adjust the new meter to match the old meter reading for speed.
2. If you do not have the old meter then maybe connect a good quality bicycle computer to calibrate it against and adjust it as per item 1 above.
3. connect the new meter and mount a GPS/ satnav (or use an ap on your smart phone, etc.), ride along and note the meter speed compared to the GPS. Stop and adjust the LCD meter then check again, etc.
4. This method is a bit more time consuming. Use another vehicle with a trip/odometer and map out a route by driving a set distance (a longer distance will be more acccurate, so say 5km minimum). Have the new meter connected then ride the same route you mapped out and adjust in small increments until both trip/odometers measure the same distance.
 
Or do it the way I do it.. ride past a speed radar and adjust it accordingly. Luckily I have one only three blocks from my house :D Your nearest elementary school will probably have one.
 
vax said:
Does it mean I can connect speed input to motor phase wire?

That's got to be how it works, I threw this thing on the bike this weekend and got a chance to try it for a half hour. The one thing I was having problems with was the speedometer. but I misread that sentence and tried hooking it up to one of my hall sensors(green) instead of trying to hook it up to the phase itself.

I'll try again today with it attached to a phase wire and hopefully I can tune it to the correct speed
 
jateureka said:
I thought mine was scratched too then realised it was just the plastic film that protects the glass that was scratched, peeled the film off and the glass itself is fine.

actually you might be right, since I have yet to take that film off the screen, I'm just so used to getting the scratch and dent items off Ebay :)
 
I bought the second LCD meter with the current shunt. It has two seperate inputs to allow connection to the motor hall sensor (the preferred input) or the motor phase (if motor is sensorless).


Here's another couple of plastic cases that may be suitable (I haven't checked), would need sealing to make water resistant...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HQ-Hand-Held-Project-Enclosure-Box-Case-Plastic-Multi-sizes-Colors-to-choose-/151030351567?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item232a1c46cf#ht_7696wt_1010
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Desktop-Instrumentation-Project-Enclosure-Box-Case-Plastic-/150870440462?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item2320943a0e#ht_4713wt_1010
 
So is the general consensus that the speed wire needs to be hooked up to a phase wire and that a hall sensor wire will not suffice?
 
Ya, I tried hooking it up to the main phase wires today and it does work!

had to dial the pot almost all the way down to get it to read relative to MPH speeds. It seems fairly responsive and jumps up to speed quick, but it also seems to drop below the speed your going when you let off the throttle while coasting. Either way very handy workable meter for the money. Now i just have to tinker with the directionals but to be honest i will never use them.
 
Got mine working.. here it is on the dirt bike.

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So two things.. first is obviously the screen.. I silicon-ed it to adhere it to the plate, so I'm guessing that's why the screen is so hard to read now.. will check on it once the silicone dries.. I think that the silicone when its still wet is a little conductive, leading it to look so hard to read.

Second thing is because of this incident, it looks like there's more functions than we thought. It's chinese, but on the bottom left, there's a battery mater. I just asked the seller how I can set it up for 72v battery use. Doubt he'll know anything but worth a try. I wonder where these meters get used commercially, on what kind of electric scooter i'm guessing.
 
Got mine working.. here it is on the dirt bike.

5me1aw.jpg


So two things.. first is obviously the screen.. I silicon-ed it to adhere it to the plate, so I'm guessing that's why the screen is so hard to read now.. will check on it once the silicone dries.. I think that the silicone when its still wet is a little conductive, leading it to look so hard to read.

Second thing is because of this incident, it looks like there's more functions than we thought. It's chinese, but on the bottom left, there's a battery mater. I just asked the seller how I can set it up for 72v battery use. Doubt he'll know anything but worth a try. I wonder where these meters get used commercially, on what kind of electric scooter i'm guessing.
 
the 1, 2, and 3 on the right are low speed, medium, and high. I'm.. chinese and can read a little bit lol I'll ask my dad the rest if anyone cares to know what it is.. but I surely don't see myself using the rest of those indicators.
 
It works off the phase wires because nearly all bikes have phase wires. Many don't have or use halls, so they wouldn't be powered.

It wants to see 10-80v on the lighting wires to bring on the symbols. That is any vehicle from 12v upwards, until you get to something silly.

It seems very straight forward to me.
 
One thing I'd like to add is that the speed adjusting is VERY sensitive. Every little bit is going to make a big difference, making it very hard to calibrate completely correctly.

The screen is now able to be read, the silicone dried.
 
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