Mongoose CX Supermoto 4000W Mid-Drive Torque monster

Yep I was there tearing up the track.
 
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[youtube]-qOJtm4qZZc[/youtube]
 
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Thanks Dauntless,
I hunted him down via pm a while ago. Originally it was freewheeling on leftside I think (his video), but he flipped sides when upgrading motor and dropped pedals.
Not freewheeling now. (I can personally attest the currie/electricscooterparts 4 bolt fws can't take that much torque)

Just wanted to save him from feeling like he had to read my thread, which is mostly gibberish anyway.
 
Gibberish? I thought it was just over my head. I've been tinkering with the 250w pocket mod's and guess what? With DOUBLE freewheeling they still go out. All that 2 freewheels do is provide DOUBLE the opportunity to have a problem. I was guessing that Evolution would have just HAD to have had the answer if he had one at all.
 
I'm using a freewheel adapter bolted up a 45t 35# rear sprocket
 
So the freewheel is on the rear sprocket fella?
 
I think he has a dual (flipflop) currie freewheel hub, but screwed on the 6 bolt disc adapter to bolt sprocket to?

Here's my creation. When it's done I'll do more of a write up, maybe a vid.
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recipe:
your wheel with a freehub and cassette
freewheel hub
another cassette
8mm 10t gear/sprocket
whiteind or other flanged fw

it has the cassette pawl welded into the back of half of a fw hub, then the modded 10t sprocket welded on that to accept a freehub/cassette.

It's way easier if you don't want to use whiteind or a cassette. just threaded bb cups as adapters. but I fried that fw and the wheel bearings are not close to the d/o, so axles bend easier.
 
I'm using the dual freewheel hub that came with the bike.

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nutspecial said:
I think he has a dual (flipflop) currie freewheel hub

Currie wheels are dual-sided, with right-hand threads on one side and left-handed on the other, and require a left-hand threaded freewheel sprocket.

Flip-flop hubs are common on BMX bikes and have right-handed threads on both sides. This means they can't be driven on both sides simultaneously. You could, however, use a locknut or some thread-lock glue to fasten on a solid non-freewheeling adapter to a flip-flop hub.
 
Thanks gogo, I didn't realize currie used the proper thread for the left. I never did find a place to buy the hubs, but for direct drive, any rightside threaded freehub would work I suppose.

Hey Evolution, Did you see much cooling improvement with the vents? I'm contemplating doing the same.
A fan on the shaft would be great , but I don't have the room. Liquid cooling wouldn't be much benefit at all, so the only thing I can think of is venting it, adding more aluminum, or figuring out forced air cooling via a stand alone fan.
 
Cooling holes gave it a slight improvement, but motor would still get warm after 40mph runs, and hot to the touch on the track. 4800watt bursts, on the long straight away up to 41mph then hard braking into the tight corners, again pulling 4000watt bursts out of the corners.
 
Can you summarize your battery setup history with this build?

What batteries did you start with, and then migrate too?
Series and Parallel and the feel of the bike with these different values?

Thanks in advance!
 
I always run lipo with this bike. With the original currie motor I ran 48 volts but it was too much for the tiny brush motor. Upgraded to the Big Block and run 84V, huge improvement, but eventually I went to 96V. Hobby king RC lipo packs, 8 of them. 4 in series and another set in parallel giving me 24S 2P.
 
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Yz125 seat
Mx footpegs
Transmag motor
Sabvoton 96v sinewave controller 8kw peak
Top speed 55mph
 
Wow! Can you give a quick cost breakdown? It does not look cheap.. And what is the approximate weight and seat height.

Sorry for all the questions.. Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks

Frame $60 off Craigslist
Sabvoton 96v controller $400
Transmag motor $350
Lipo battery 96v $300
Yz125 seat $25
Fork $150
Shimano hydro brake $100
Handle bar and stem about $100
Fox rear shock came off my giant trance
 
evolutiongts said:
[youtube]8MWD7VDtA5s[/youtube]

I'm pretty sure the swingarm is aluminum so its going to be hard to modify. I'm thinking the same thing you are, I have a spare swingarm that I'm going to bring to a CNC shop to see what they can do.

Its a very fun bike to ride, whether its off-road or urban assault riding.

I ordered a wider rear tire for my bike should be here by tomorrow. Pirelli ML75 16x2.75 vs my Shinko SR714 16x2.25

Waiting for my new controller, I'm going to be running 100volts, that should allow me to hit over 40mph+ top speed.

Also need a rear shock with more suspension travel, I have 4" Fox rear air shock. Looking to get a 8 inch rear shock.

Also got footpegs that I need to install.

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How good is the shrinko tyre? I'm thinking to get one and fit it on a 20" 42mm wide rim:
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycle-parts/rims/rims/20-nimbus-dominator2-rim-black.html
 
what 55 now!
Come on we need some vids o that!

I just got two o these for 200 today threw 36v of lipo in one with stock everything and yah go's threw mud, go's up hill and does bun outs. ha
18mph top speed 9s bout 3.8 per cell.

I got the big block alternative too and a 18 fet Infineon so will be trying that out at some point. need forks n shock first.

Got a mxus 3000 3 turn in 17 inch moto wheel laying around too. Would be fun to see the match up with the mid drive.
 
diggler said:
what 55 now!
Come on we need some vids o that!

I just got two o these for 200 today threw 36v of lipo in one with stock everything and yah go's threw mud, go's up hill and does bun outs. ha
18mph top speed 9s bout 3.8 per cell.

I got the big block alternative too and a 18 fet Infineon so will be trying that out at some point. need forks n shock first.

Got a mxus 3000 3 turn in 17 inch moto wheel laying around too. Would be fun to see the match up with the mid drive.

Mid drive is the way to go with these in my opinion.

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[youtube]jPA4UU_3zG8[/youtube]

There will be vids soon, had to replace the battery on my go pro
 
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