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more power for climbing hills

Joined
Jan 5, 2015
Messages
53
Hi I have a lifepo4 48 v 20 ah battery that I am more than happy with when it comes to speed I can get from it
but I am having real trouble with some of the steep hilly roads I use, what I would like to know is would a biger battery
help say a 72v 20ah or would it just give me more speed. What I have to do know is get off and push on one hill I have to use.


thanks chris
 
Volt increases are for speed. But you would still have more watts so yes you would climb better.

What you really need though is more amps = a battery and controller that will allow it and a motor that can handle that too.

There is no hill I can't climb that traction will allow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wlgnyPcpBs
 
What kind of motor drive kit do you have?
What is your max speed on flat?
Are you stalling out halfway up the hill?
Have you find a hill that is half the grade of the hill you are trying to get over and have you record the amp/ speed of that hill?

More volts will increase your speed and may help you get up that hill. But it can also burn the motor/controller depending on how many amps you are pulling trying to get up that hill. Maybe test the current setup with a hill that is half the grade and find out what the max amp draw is. There are sites that allows you to plug in a route and find the grade of any hills along that road.
 
Chris, you didn't give enough info for helping you. I experimented with a lot of hub motors, even using three at one time trying to find a good solution for climbing a 20% grade. In the end, I settled on mid-drives. Both a hub motor mounted as a mid-drive and a Bafang crank drive handle the hill with ease using a 48V system.

If you start upping your voltage you will potentially have to spend as much upgrading your battery and controller as you will purchasing some sort of mid=drive and you'll still be stuck with a hub motor that will overheat if lugged too much on a hill.

Depending on your goals, there are lots of choices now, such as the whole range of Bafang crank drives on the low end to Lighting Rods offerings on the higher power end.
 
I agree with Rassy, we need a bit more info to advise, and changing your bike to a mid drive might suit your needs much better than just dropping more volts and amps on the motor you have. Since battery is so pricy, doubling the voltage may still disappoint.

And it's quite possible, you double your voltage and your amps, go flying up the hill now, but melt down your motor in the process.

So the answer is "it depends" But yes, more volts will double your wattage, and if the motor is robust enough, that will give you more power on the hills. Enough? we can't say.

Something is going on with you though, either you + the bike is very heavy, or the hill is very steep if you can't get up it on a 48v bike. Or both. A typical 48v hub motor setup would easily climb 10% grade with pedaling, up to a weight of about 300- 350 pounds. 400 pounds, more like up to 5%.
 
hi more info I am running a crystallite 4080 motor and a crystallite 48 v 25 ah controller I will give you some speed conparisons when iv found the gradient of the hill I am having trouble with
 
your motor can easily run at more amps than 25.

my builds and videos are in the links if you are interested.

But in a nutshell since you are running a 25 amp controller / battery.

All you need is to add a bafang to your kit. This will climb anything then.

My bafang can climb 30% for a very long climb all alone.

I rode out to the steepest st in my city it has a sign post and it listed on websites, so that I could I get proof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duR-vGb6HCE
 
A primary determining factor is the 'C' rating of your battery. This is going to determine the continuous current you can safely draw from the battery - which will be the max current rating of the controller your system can handle.

The current rating of the the controller is the 'valve' that is limiting the hill-climbing ability of your motor. Under load (acceleration, hill-climbing, etc) the controller delivers the max current and so that current rating and the fixed battery voltage determine the power the motor has available. If your battery can deliver more current than the 25A rating of your present controller then a simple controller change (to say - 40A) could almost double your hill climbing speed on a 16% hill with very modest impact on heating (according to a couple of simple runs on the ebikes.ca simulator -- there's no reason to rely on guesses and rules of thumb - the simulator gives reliable results...)

So - what battery do you have -or more precisely- what's the continuous current 'C' rate?
How long is the hill (or multiple hills if there are many since these will incur heat buildup as if they were one long hill)?
What's the total bike + rider weight?
 
16% serious, but we still have no clue what weight you are going up it, you, the bike, the motor, the battery, any cargo.

But one thing for sure, you'd have to be very heavy to not make it, if you just give the thing more amps. Up to 400 pounds should be possible. (with 3000 w) Despite the motor being big, it really needs more amps to do that grade, at any weight over 250. If your battery can stand it, you need at least a 40 amps controller. Your motor is huge, and your controller is tiny by comparison.

I don't think you need a second motor, you just need to give your current motor some real juice. It can take 3000w easy, possibly a lot more, and you are giving it 1200w. At the very least, give it 2000w, with a 40 amps controller.

BTW, with a controller that can take a direct plug in Cycle Analyst, it would be possible to set a lower amps most of the time, only giving the motor higher amps on that hill. Or, just a simple three speed switch.
 
thanks for your replys I am going to give you as much info as I can as I don't know that much about battery tech so please go easy,
I will list every thing I now use at this time
controller crystalyte 48v 25 ah
motor crystalyte 4080 3000w max
battery sun thing 48 v 20 ah lifepo4 a123 batteries the big flat ones do not know the c rating I think it was 20c
cyclist v2
weight of bike don't know but I am 13st and the bike is a self build using a vector frame and dnm forks if that helps
speed from set up I can get to 25mph on the flat

also I do have a crystalyte controller spare its a 72v- 60a model so I can use this if I want with more battery power but what is the best way to go if I can still using the
battery I have and just adding more amps or volts with a extra battery what is the best way to go.

thanks chris
 
Why do you have a massive hub motor and a tiny 25A controller?

You can start hooking up batteries in parallel to gain more kWh and more discharge capability. Or just get a new pack. C rate and Wh is what counts. Make sure the BMS can handle the discharge rates.

For your motor at least 7kW so something like 72V 100A.
 
does a 72v battery at 20ah = 1440 wats and a 48v battery at 30 a = 1440 wats give you the same power out put ie speed and power to go up hills ect I thought it was like the following

72v - 20 a = 1440 w more speed
48v- 30 a = 1400w not as much speed as above but more distance in travel

wich one would do up hills better ?
 
Re: more power for climbing hills

Postby diff_lock » Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:39 am

Why do you have a massive hub motor and a tiny 25A controller


did not know at the time what I was buying new to this e bike world
 
Motors have a KV value in rpm per volt. This means for one given motor the higher the voltage of your battery the faster it can spin, more top speed. You can get a higher KV motor and have more speed with lower voltage.

Batteries have a nominal voltage in V, nominal capacity rated in Ah (ampere * hours), and max discharge rate in C. One C = current to discharge in one hour. 20Ah battery will discharge in one hour at 20A, 1C = 20A, 2C = 40A, 10C = 200A.

Usually battery packs have a BMS on board that has its own limits for discharge.

Battery Watt * hours, Wh = V * Ah.

Wh is the most important for range and acceleration.

Voltage is only useful for matching electronics and speeds.

Controller power Watts (W) = battery V * controller A.
 
csjones10d said:
does a 72v battery at 20ah = 1440 wats and a 48v battery at 30 a = 1440 wats give you the same power out put ie speed and power to go up hills ect I thought it was like the following

72v - 20 a = 1440 w more speed
48v- 30 a = 1400w not as much speed as above but more distance in travel

wich one would do up hills better ?

Volts * Amp * hours (V *Ah) gives you energy not power. Energy is power times time. Of the same type of battery if the Wh are the same the performance is the same.

Those batteries are every similar in spec, so they will climb the same.
 
If this is the battery pack you have, it looks like it's rated for 30A continuous and 50A max, limited by the bms.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-20ah-LiFePO4-Battery-5A-Charger-BMS-Ebike-Powerful-Rechargeable-USE-1000W-/131548396564
With a 25A controller, you are severely limiting the power of 4080 motor. The question is how many amps can you really pull from your battery packs bms before the bms shuts off. And I don't know. If the pack is truly made of 20C rated cells, it means they would be rated for ~400A, with the bms being the limiting factor. In that case you could always bypass the bms discharge and connect directly to the battery pack for discharge. But that depends on what cells are really used in your battery pack. If they are really just 2C cells, then 40A would be the most I'd try pulling from them. One thing is certain, 25A at 48V isn't near enough for that motor.
 
You can use the 60 amp controller with a C.A. ( cycle analyst ) The c.a. will let you change the amps to 40amps to match your sun-thing battery. I do not know of a sun-thing battery that uses A123 20ah zero. I think Wes is right it being a 2c 40amp draw battery and not a 15c- 400amp battery pack.
 
Ya - what he said.

Since you already have a CA V2, this will get the most out of the parts you have on hand - still way less than a better battery/BMS could support, but a step in the right direction for no money. A quick run on the simulator shows 40A should about double your speed on a 16% hill -- something like 12mph assuming a 75lb bike.

Since the CA is going to be limiting things at 40A to avoid tripping the BMS, you probably shouldn't run without it. If your 60A controller has no CA connector, follow the instructions in the V3 Guide in "Appendix D. Adding a CA-DP Connector to a Generic Controller". The instructions will work for your controller and a CA V2 - just plug the throttle into the controller instead of the CA as illustrated.
 
cant use the 72v-60a controller with the 48v battery as the controller has a cut out limiter at 52 v so it wont work if I want to use the controller the only thing I can do then is ad another 24v -20a battery to the one I have now that would be the cheapest way to go and buy another battery say a 72v- 30ah lifepo battery or could I go and get some turnigy batteries from hobby king and make my own but do not know what batteries to get.
 
It's possible to change the LVC of the controller with a little tinkering, but I'm thinking this may be something a bit out of your reach.
(Something like this)

Another option might be to pick up a 12 FET Infineon controller from Lyen or EM3EV. These can do 40A without issue and have a programmable LVC (need a programming cable - or ask vendor to prep it for you). Obviously there are other controller options - the trick would be to keep the cost low enough to make this appealing as a possible transitional fix before you get a final solution sorted out.

To be honest, this is going to get down to an issue of finances and time to implement. It looks like your present battery will drive a mid-drive w/o issue and your present motor can get by with a different controller but really wants a different battery. So - swap drive or battery to preserve part of your current investment. I'm thinking you have a bunch of reading and questions to ask before jumping in....
 
Best bet with what you have, would be to bump to 72v, then use the CA to limit amps to 25 or 30. I wouldn't push that cheap lifepo4 past 30 amps.

Most of the time, of course, you'd not pull anywhere near 30 amps, it's only on the hill you'd need it.

To get to 72v, you need 24v 20 amps of something. It doesn't have to be lifepo4, hell, it could even be lead if you happen to have some.

To go with 48v 40 amps, you would need another controller, and some more 48v battery in parallel, to make the combined pack able to take 40 amps. It could be worth it to stay at 48v, since at 72v your bike is going to be crazy fast. Some like that, some don't. Cops don't. You can of course, limit speed with the CA too, but it won't make the throttle less touchy.

My best advice, buy the 48v 40 amps controller, and some more 48v battery. It doesn't have to be a sun thing 20 ah, 10ah more would do er for 40 amps controller. You could also add 5 ah of turnigy, adding 14s 5 ah would stiffen your amps limit. three 4s packs, plus one 2s. two 4s plus two 3s. Whatever adds up to 14 in series.
 
dogman dan said:
To get to 72v, you need 24v 20 amps of something. It doesn't have to be lifepo4, hell, it could even be lead if you happen to have some.
"...24v 20amps of something..."
?

For a series solution, the idea is to boost the available power by upping the voltage (V x controller_rating). Here you can use your 25A controller or the 60A controller with CA limiting to 30A.

You will need 24V with a 20Ah rating and a 25A or 30A continuous discharge rate (depending on the controller). If you get less than 20Ah, the booster pack will drain before the 48V pack, making part of the big pack unusable as the booster pack BMS cuts out. With less than 30A continuous discharge capacity for the booster pack (the assumed continuous rate of the existing pack), the discharge rate will be limited by the smaller pack reducing the current you can draw even lower than what you already have.

  • Realistically, you might use a slightly lower Ah rating for the booster pack, leave part of the big pack unused, and still end up ahead, but it seems a questionable choice. Looking at capacity (affects range) in Wh and power (climbing ability) in W:

    Code:
                 Presently: 16cells x 3.2V/cell x 20Ah = 1024Wh, 16cells x 3.2V/cell x 25A = 1280W
    Adding a 15Ah 24V pack: 24cells x 3.2V/cell x 15Ah = 1152Wh, 24cells x 3.2V/cell x 30A = 2304W
    Adding a 20Ah 24V pack: 24cells x 3.2V/cell x 20Ah = 1536Wh, 24cells x 3.2V/cell x 30A = 2304W
    Clearly the 'new' extra current expended climbing is going to eat into your Wh (range), but you can see the tradeoff...
    Again, you will need to mess with the simulator to see what these numbers mean in terms of climbing speed and heating.
In this serial case it's not necessary to use the same chemistry. Ideally, the booster pack has a BMS or is manually monitored, since the CA pack-level LVC cannot accurately protect series packs with cells that are dissimilar (capacity, age, chemistry, etc).

In the parallel case:

dogman dan said:
My best advice, buy the 48v 40 amps controller, and some more 48v battery.
...
You could also add 5 ah of turnigy, adding 14s 5 ah would stiffen your amps limit. three 4s packs, plus one 2s. two 4s plus two 3s. Whatever adds up to 14 in series.
This is a bad idea. You really don't want to mix LiPo and LiFePo4 chemistries for parallel packs. Although the 'fully charged' voltages are very similar, the discharge curves and termination voltages are very different - since LiPo termination voltage is much higher than that of LiFePo4, you will need to stop discharge while much of the LiFePo4 capacity remains unused. Here you would need to be sure to use the CA LVC set to the LiPo LVC since presumably the LiPo has no BMS.

From this thread (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=988017#p988017):
dogman dan said:
Lets get into the details anyway. When I combined 14s lipo with 16s lifepo4, it was pretty awkward. They did start at about the same voltage, 58v.
But on the other end, I had to stop the lipo while there was still a fair bit of capacity in the lifepo4, or risk over discharging the lipo.
If you are going to address your issue with a parallel booster pack, stick with the same LiFePo4 chemistry.

In either the serial or parallel cases there are certainly ways to reconnect packs during the journey to manually manage incompatible battery characteristics, but IMHO these are academic or make-do exercises and not the way you want to plan a new battery purchase. Get the proper chemistries, capacities, and discharge rates and either approach should be trouble-free - otherwise you will have a PITA for the life of your batteries. In any case, read some threads about charging/connecting serial/parallel packs.
 
Hey, just saying what he could do, some of them are not great ideas, but they could do it. lots of options for him, good or bad. The goal is simple, more watts.

So lets repeat the most sensible option, his best bet is a new 48v controller, a 40 amps one. Then he can parallel another 10ah 48v lifepo4 pack with it, and he'll have 2000w to get up that hill. It should be enough, unless he happens to weigh 400 pounds.

He can parallel something else with it, but then he's got to pay attention to the 100% discharged voltage of both types, and stop when the first pack is done, the one that is done at a higher voltage.

Cheapest thing he could do is a poor idea, but he could parallel 5 ah of lipo with the lifepo4.
 
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