N.E.S.E. the no solder module

[sharinginfos]

Thank you.
I always strongly advise on using brand new cells from reputable supplier. Pressure design relies on good contact and having cleaned second hand cells does not give you that fully. Its a risk where least you could loose is your property and worst, yours or your families life.
The link you provided is very thin nickel tabs for spotwelding, usually 0.15mm. My tabs are 0.6mm copper. It has bumps and is rigid not to collapse under pressure. Its not possible to make it work. I thought about making it compatible with fuses and its possible but it adds to overall width 13-20mm. Its a substantial amount.
If you use genuine new cells there is very little risk involved to need a fuse. Even medical packs don't have them. To add to this, laptop cells are good to 0.5C. They were not meant for high discharge so 8P would only give you 8A discharge with 2Ah cells safely. It will need 3 x 8P modules to do meaningful currents at the low end.

Hi everyone, i have those vtc4 that are still good from last mesurement before pandemic.
I used a pair of plier to remove as much metal from them (i started with the bent metal picture)
As you can see on the picture there are some spot where there is still metal.
I read that the nese is tight . i dont know if the tight fit is regarding the diameter of the cell or tight from bottom to top of head.
forgive my spelling mistake im learning english

TO consider: ill build a 13s4p of vtc4.At the moment, all my cells are like the 2 cells identified as no 3 and no 4. Im not good at soldering (and heat damage cells) and spot welding scares me and i read a lot i do find it complicated even if maybe cheaper)i dont want to do that and equip myself with a spot welder for just 2 13s4p. I like the fact that i can remove a bad cell eventually with the nese easily. the motor I will use is a xiongda asking 7 amps. Now i understand that it would have been better to have brand new cell i do understand but i want to work with those cells i have .

Correct me if im wrong but even if i remove the metal left on top as on picture 1 and 2 there will still be elevation from the remaining 4 points .
Is it realistic to dremel those ends flat like new cells???.if yes with what tool and brush.
i will not charge at high amps .

wich of the abcdef options should i go with???
and could all of those fit in the nese module???


i see 6 options
a) fit them with the remaing metal piece attached to at least one spot pict 1 and 2 . How bad would it be if there is only contact from the nese to a tiny bit of metal left? maybe similar to have only one spot weld or less? how bad is it to only have one spot weld contact with nese?

b) to find a way to remove the most metal left leaving the 4 spots wich i beleive is higher than the rest of the nice metal they attach to . seems a lot lot of work to endup with only the 4 spot welds without the metal ontop.

c) would be to add a silicone purple under the rectangle left see cell no 3 ( im kind of affraid the silicone would rupture and a short would happen with the external cell negative enveloppe

d) would be the cut a square just around the 4 spot weld like drawn on cel no 4 (imagine there is just a square left) would that be a flat square surface or not ???? see picture names "care"at the end. it is not so much as a flat square since the native nickel metal ontop makes a valley to the center but still at least one, probably two sides of the square nickel would touch the nese metal part.
maybe it is the best option to choose??? safe enough contact??? ???

e) would be to cut the one of the rectangle side and fold the other end of the rectangle on top of the place where are the 4 spot weld. it is the picture where i wrote a text on white background.

f) would be to fold the rectangle twice on it self adding double of height would the cell plus 4 folds total fit???
risk here would be un even heights of the cells maybe leaving one cell in the middle not presuring the nese

I also see a risk in option E and F in that those folded piece of metal have been folded couple of times and that makes the metal weak wich could endup in riping a part loose and making a short cut.? those folded metal are not so solid and if i need to push the cell hard in the nese ... maybe they wil rip. after testing they can be rather easy to rip since the fold cople times has weaken them.




Iam far from an expert but i beleive that option E would bea good option since it would keep the 4 contact of the spot weld in place and since i would fold only one of the 2 end of the rectangle, there would be a good contact from this folded piece with the nese module. but not so study strong.
Maybe option D would be the best ( it represent more work than option E yes but if you tell me it is the best or the best that would fit in the nese i will do it. hum maybe the square option D would be the best also since the total height of all cells would be similar from one to the other and even if only one side of the square touches the nese it is still a line that represents at least 2 spotwelds minimum
.
Remember i dont want to do something perfect, i want your opinion on wich option i should go with and why.???
With option e that would add one fold on each end... would that fit in the module???

any other thoughs or ideas are welcome .I know you own me nothing, i dont want to pass as feeling entiteled and ordering you to answer me , at the same time i really I feel i would learn if you guys could answer all of the above questions because i m also here to learn and i want to make and informed choice. One of the important thing i would appreciate is what are the downsides or risk i run for each options. i see some but probably miss a couple

I Appreciate it ?

 

[999zip999]

For safety sake and to save you money in the long run and headache buy new cells you get them cheap in Canada you still get them cheap buy a good name brand. Those Sony's are top of the line but the contact points can cause some arcing and arcing is no good . The start of a fire. Just saying.
Especially in a high demand bicycle application.

 

[sharinginfos]

For safety sake and to save you money in the long run and headache buy new cells you get them cheap in Canada you still get them cheap buy a good name brand. Those Sony's are top of the line but the contact points can cause some arcing and arcing is no good . The start of a fire. Just saying.
Especially in a high demand bicycle application.

why would there be arcs? i read a bit on arc it seems to mean a short cut. Do you mean arc would probable if there is just a small point of contact? is that still true if i only use it with low pulling application like xiongda hub motor 7amps.?

Could you kindly tell me why you say it would save me money in the long run?

and what headache are you refering to?( is it the trouble of making equal parallel group with IR and such or is there more headache ahead im not aware of?

i would really like to know to that a decision dans fit my needs

 

[999zip999]

Used unknown cells can make fire look at the top of those cells they're selling new cells Sony vct4s for $1.60 each or two dollars Canadian from Canada as many as you want new sales
Yes it's in new sales section.
Or make Fire.

 

[tomjasz]

Used unknown cells can make fire look at the top of those cells they're selling new cells Sony vct4s for $1.60 each or two dollars Canadian from Canada as many as you want new sales
Yes it's in new sales section.
Or make Fire.

Exactly. Save money by not burning down the house or at best just burning up the bike.

@sharinginfos Don’t be an askhole. Ask for advice, get good advice and then argue as to the veracity. You MIGHT be able to clean the cells up with a dremel, but why risk it? None of your ideas meet the design parameters of the NESE kits. Period.

 

[agniusm]

For safety sake and to save you money in the long run and headache buy new cells you get them cheap in Canada you still get them cheap buy a good name brand. Those Sony's are top of the line but the contact points can cause some arcing and arcing is no good . The start of a fire. Just saying.
Especially in a high demand bicycle application.

why would there be arcs? i read a bit on arc it seems to mean a short cut. Do you mean arc would probable if there is just a small point of contact? is that still true if i only use it with low pulling application like xiongda hub motor 7amps.?

Could you kindly tell me why you say it would save me money in the long run?

and what headache are you refering to?( is it the trouble of making equal parallel group with IR and such or is there more headache ahead im not aware of?

i would really like to know to that a decision dans fit my needs

You can grind cells down with dremel and use cells but at your own risk. As this is a friction method, contact are must be as smooth as possible and you cant achieve that with used cells. Its OK for low power applications but not e-bikes. High current pull with introduce arcing and contacts will deteriorate further and that is hazard around the corner. If you decide to go with this, keep your battery away from living spaces and in fireproof container.

 

[agniusm]

 

[agniusm]

According ChatGPT:

The NESE (Nickel-plated Steel Energy) battery kit is a type of modular, no-solder, and weldless battery kit designed for DIY battery projects. It was developed by esk8.builders, a community of electric skateboard enthusiasts.

The NESE kit consists of a series of nickel-plated steel (NPS) cell holders that can be easily assembled and interconnected to form a custom-sized battery pack. The NPS holders have a built-in compression system that eliminates the need for welding or soldering, making it easy to assemble and maintain the battery pack. The kit also includes nickel-plated copper busbars, which are used to connect the individual cell holders together.

The NESE battery kit is popular among DIY electric vehicle (EV) enthusiasts, as well as hobbyists and makers who want to build their own custom battery packs for various projects. It is compatible with a wide range of lithium-ion (Li-ion) battery cells, including popular formats such as 18650, 20700, and 21700.

 

[Oldboy]

Agniusm . I have question . Have a bomber battery that puts of 72v26amh .size standing up is hight 357mm X 160mm X 120mm . With better cells say 21700 could a battery be build with your kit around that size to achieve 72v 36 to possible 40 amps to run a rear hub motor at a peak power of say around 13 to 15 kw amps would be I'm guessing here but some were around 150 to 180 . I'm new to all this just trying to work out if it's possible to build something myself that I've been quoted quite a lot to build and I could save quite a bit if I could do it myself it that's at all possible with the sizes to work with that is .

 

[agniusm]

Agniusm . I have question . Have a bomber battery that puts of 72v26amh .size standing up is hight 357mm X 160mm X 120mm . With better cells say 21700 could a battery be build with your kit around that size to achieve 72v 36 to possible 40 amps to run a rear hub motor at a peak power of say around 13 to 15 kw amps would be I'm guessing here but some were around 150 to 180 . I'm new to all this just trying to work out if it's possible to build something myself that I've been quoted quite a lot to build and I could save quite a bit if I could do it myself it that's at all possible with the sizes to work with that is .

Sorry, but i need you to put your questions clearer.
So your battery space is 357x160x120mm?
You have battery that is 72V and 26AH (20S) and you want to build a battery that is 72V and 36-40AH?
You want to load that battery with 210A peak?

If you can get that into your space, the my solution will be capable to deliver that current for 5s with breathers in between.
That is if you can fit it all as you will need 40 modules to meet your required capacity.
P.S. did a quick cad and you wont be able to fit that much. Best you can do is 20S6P 21700 ~24AH(1728WH) or 15S8P 21700 ~ 32AH(1728WH) or 17S10P 18650 ~ 30AH(1836WH). You can see here that using my system your space caps you at ~1800WH with different configurations. Maybe you could make wider side covers to fit larger modules....

 

[agniusm]

Have a new little add-on to NESE system. Its a retention pin that locks modules between them selves. Its 3D printed plastic pin but still very strong.


Only downside is that lids don't have access holes so modules need to be stacked bottom to lid and polarity markings render irrelevant. But, there's always black and red sharpie


3mm long allen wrench can be used to set or extract pins. Lite, compact and invisible

Download it on Cults3D or Thingiverse

 

[agniusm]

Adding 1P for those pedelecs..

 

[DaDo.Bzz]

Good job mate. You have also cases for 21700?

 

[agniusm]

Good job mate. You have also cases for 21700?

Yes, 18650, 21700 and 26650

 

[agniusm]

Few modules for Princeton uni

 

[The Toecutter]

I'm heavily considering ordering 20 of the 6p 21700 modules for some new Molicel P42A batteries so I can upgrade to 72V from 48V. How well will these 6P 21700 modules handle 140A peak?

 

[peadar]

Sorry, but i need you to put your questions clearer.
So your battery space is 357x160x120mm?
You have battery that is 72V and 26AH (20S) and you want to build a battery that is 72V and 36-40AH?
You want to load that battery with 210A peak?

If you can get that into your space, the my solution will be capable to deliver that current for 5s with breathers in between.
That is if you can fit it all as you will need 40 modules to meet your required capacity.
P.S. did a quick cad and you wont be able to fit that much. Best you can do is 20S6P 21700 ~24AH(1728WH) or 15S8P 21700 ~ 32AH(1728WH) or 17S10P 18650 ~ 30AH(1836WH). You can see here that using my system your space caps you at ~1800WH with different configurations. Maybe you could make wider side covers to fit larger modules....
View attachment 331812

What would a96 volt 30 amph battery iook like LwH?
thanks

 

[agniusm]

I'm heavily considering ordering 20 of the 6p 21700 modules for some new Molicel P42A batteries so I can upgrade to 72V from 48V. How well will these 6P 21700 modules handle 140A peak?

All depends for how long and how offten. Should be alright up to 200A for 10S occasionally

 

[The Toecutter]

All depends for how long and how offten. Should be alright up to 200A for 10S occasionally

That's all I need. This thing will be at top speed in about 10 seconds. I'm going to try these.

Are they safe to use in the rain, or do I need a waterproof version of them? My trike is kept outside in all weather conditions and I use it in all weather conditions. These include snow, ice, salted roads, rain, hail, thunderstorms, I've even ridden it during a tornado warning event with 90 mph winds.

 

[agniusm]

That's all I need. This thing will be at top speed in about 10 seconds. I'm going to try these.

Are they safe to use in the rain, or do I need a waterproof version of them? My trike is kept outside in all weather conditions and I use it in all weather conditions. These include snow, ice, salted roads, rain, hail, thunderstorms, I've even ridden it during a tornado warning event with 90 mph winds.

I have a battery left outside in one of those children electric contaptions. After 2 years still works but i have not checked inside yet. I would advise enclosure for any battery.

 

[agniusm]

What would a96 volt 30 amph battery iook like LwH?
thanks

Depends on the cell. 18650 module is 75x20.5x whatever module size, 21700 is 80x23.5x whatever module size and 26650 is 75x28.5x whatever module size.

 

[The Toecutter]

Made an order. I sent a message via the 18650.lt website specifying the type of 21700 cell to be used and the modules may require slight modification to fit. I look forward to trying them out and upgrading my trike to 72V @ 10 kW. I'm going to hoon the shit out of this thing, and hopefully not injure or kill myself. 0-60 mph acceleration should be somewhere around 8 seconds. I promise to do lots of donuts with this thing and ride it like a total jackass. Then when I get a new controller for higher voltage, I can rearrange the 20S6P pack I plan to make with these modules, and properly spotweld up a 24S5P pack, or maybe even a 30S4P or perhaps a 40P3P pack. The 20S pack is a temporary solution, limited by my ASI BAC4000 controller, and I won't have to spend time spotwelding them together, which is why I wanted these modules

 

[agniusm]

Made an order. I sent a message via the 18650.lt website specifying the type of 21700 cell to be used and the modules may require slight modification to fit. I look forward to trying them out and upgrading my trike to 72V @ 10 kW. I'm going to hoon the shit out of this thing, and hopefully not injure or kill myself. 0-60 mph acceleration should be somewhere around 8 seconds. I promise to do lots of donuts with this thing and ride it like a total jackass. Then when I get a new controller for higher voltage, I can rearrange the 20S6P pack I plan to make with these modules, and properly spotweld up a 24S5P pack, or maybe even a 30S4P or perhaps a 40P3P pack. The 20S pack is a temporary solution, limited by my ASI BAC4000 controller, and I won't have to spend time spotwelding them together, which is why I wanted these modules

Hi. Yours is shipped via FedEx. Will email tracking.

My kids have grown a bit and i decided to build enduro bike for myself as i have more time to spend. Decided to go with light battery, 20s8p. Will be using p42a. Expecting lots of pooooower, so i will be using my 2s4p module for 8p double sided, doublebussed configuration. Did a quick CAD to "glue" 2 modules together, 242wh each, 10 total:



This will give me 2.4kWh total. Hope to pull some serious ams to see how this will do in real life on enduro bike. I will arrange tabs with compression foam at the top so ther is bo constant pressure of the cell on them. Will see.

 

[The Toecutter]

Hi. Yours is shipped via FedEx. Will email tracking.

The package just arrived this morning. Will be putting together the 72V pack this weekend. I need to make a waterproof housing for everything, and also order some cables/connectors as well.