New Bafang Crank-Drives

Digger said:
Does anybody know where I can buy the connectors for the bafang mid drive? .. Programming and brakes ?
There is a Higo distributor in the Netherlands, but none in the USA. What are you trying to accomplish?
 
opperpanter said:
More info on higo connectors http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65442

Will search for Dutch reseller now as that's where I live.

I can provide the contact. Sadly by the time I pay all the fees and use a bank transfer the prices were outrageous.

EDIT sent by PM
 
I'm happy to report in as the newest member of the BBS02 club. Got both my mtb and beach cruiser up and running yesterday. Big thanks to the many members here that replied to my numerous PM's. I'll save the personal shout outs for the build/show off thread whenever I get the last details sorted out.

These drives definitely lived up to expectations. I had never ridden an ebike before, and after the maiden voyages I was grinning like a fool. Even more so after programming. This thread was instrumental. Good times.
 
Latest modification: I've removed my throttle. I was pretty much never using it, just using PAS. I've also settled on a programming scheme that ramps up the assist over 5 levels rather than having all set to 100% assist.

I used Keplers circuit for his shifter cut out, all housed in the switch body. Red button kills the motor for gear changes and the green button is for 100% throttle in the rare occasions when turning the peddles isn't convenient. I'm really happy with how quickly the motor cuts back in. Much quicker than using the brake cut out switch.

rYi4EUC.jpg
 
This automatically switches off the engine when shifting Made in Czech Republic.http://www.evbike.cz/EVBike-Central-Kit/Prislusenstvi/EVBIKE-Senzor-razeni-presmykac-a-prehazovacka.html
 
Thanks. I had a read of the english-ish manual and it seems to use the ebrake sensor to cut the motor power. I have found this method way too slow to return power to the motor. Using Kepler's circuit the recovery is almost instant as it simulates a slight throttle twist to cut the power.
 
Tom L said:
Thanks. I had a read of the english-ish manual and it seems to use the ebrake sensor to cut the motor power. I have found this method way too slow to return power to the motor. Using Kepler's circuit the recovery is almost instant as it simulates a slight throttle twist to cut the power.

Can you post a link to the circuit you are using? I tried using one of the diagrams I found, but could not get it to work.
 
I have a couple of these cutoff for existing brakes left over. EM3v gets $13 with the BBS0x Higo plug. I have $16 in them will sell the last couple for $16 plus shipping. They can ship First Class tracked for under $3.
 

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snowranger said:
Can you post a link to the circuit you are using? I tried using one of the diagrams I found, but could not get it to work.

Here you go, this is what I used, please excuse the spelling mistake. I was in a hurry.
0Z2OSOq.jpg


His original circuits are here: https://imgur.com/a/lx7lo
 
Tom L said:
snowranger said:
Can you post a link to the circuit you are using? I tried using one of the diagrams I found, but could not get it to work.

Here you go, this is what I used, please excuse the spelling mistake. I was in a hurry.
0Z2OSOq.jpg


His original circuits are here: https://imgur.com/a/lx7lo

Thanks for posting that.
 
Will a Shimano internal geared hub solve the shifting issue?
 
I really don't see it as a "shifting issue". But internal geared hubs do work. Lower end units won't hold up well under hard use, but a number of IGH designs work very well. See Karl's comments on electric fatbike for a fairly sensible review. Many of us have just adapted our technique to be able to shift pretty efficiently. Tap the brake to kill the motor, shift and engage. Easy peasy. I will say I'm also of the opinion that this may not be the ideal drive for and road hard MTB. Id be looking at LR's mid for a powerhouse. But that's just me, one of a large and varied group of users.

From Electric Fatbike,

"When hooking up ebrakes to the BBS02 I never use the Bafang brakes on the rear-brake side. The main reason is because whenever you touch the brake the throttle stops working for 2 seconds. In the woods this is incredibly annoying to have constant throttle lag. I am often on the brakes and the throttle at almost the same time. If I leave the PAS connected then I hook up the Bafang front brake which allows me to kill the PAS immediately when I hit the front brake in case I’m about to hit something (that never happens) or I can just tap the brake a tiny bit but not engage it in order to shift. In my opinion this is a far better solution than using the Giant Green Button as it doesn’t clutter your handlebars and keeps your ebike looking as stealthy as possible."

http://electric-fatbike.com/2015/07/24/testing-the-giant-green-button-does-it-really-deserve-the-space-it-takes-up-on-the-handlebars/
 
I tried the brake tap as a gear change method but 2 seconds is way too long to be without power. It's a shame this ebrake cutout recovery time can't be adjusted in software.

You should really look into using Kepler's circuits. The power recovery from a simulated slight throttle twist is pretty much instantaneous. As soon as you've changed gear let the button go and the power is back.
 
Tom L said:
You should really look into using Kepler's circuits. The power recovery from a simulated slight throttle twist is pretty much instantaneous. As soon as you've changed gear let the button go and the power is back.
I am looking but am a dolt at understanding and translating the circuit design into a working device. With luck I'll be able to get in a electronics class this winter...
 
rsilvers said:
Will a Shimano internal geared hub solve the shifting issue?

Probably not. But a nuVinci N360 will. I can shift under load and don't have to worry about killing the motor when I change gear.

N
 
I posted this elsewhere, but it seems relevant...
CmdrBond said:
I'm looking into a BBS02 and gear sensor.

I noticed 2 companies selling gear sensors with their kits.

Lectric Cycles with their customised eRad system

And Dillenger.

I asked Dillenger how the gear sensor connected and I got this response..

https://s3.amazonaws.com/elevio-article-assets/55ce631f2c80a/55f74381ba000_gearsensorcom-manual-v10.pdf



Taken from that....


General description

This unique patent pending system developed and made in Czech Republic is based on intelligent GearSensor fixed on the shifting cable, which cuts off the motor drive when the rider activates gear shifting. This brand new technical solution eliminates user-unfriendly and noisy rear derailleur shifting which is caused by chain over straining. GearSensor in combination with the front derailleur allows smooth shifting even if the e-bike is equipped by double/triple chain wheel mid-motor. In addition GearSensor in combination with the internal gear hubs allows perfect shifting performance.

Programmable processors enable individual time setting for shifting gears up and down and adjust micro movement sensitivity of the inner cable to avoid the motor cutting out caused by cable vibration during riding the e-bike.


GearSensor models

The GearSensor is divided into these different models:

1) Model GS-D is a universal model for both derailleurs (front and rear). On this model restarting of the motor depends on the FINISH of the shifting cable movement. This is because system has to wait until the movement of the chain is finished to choose a sprocket or a chainring. MODEL GS-D IS MARKED ON THE CABLE WITH A WHITE STICKER (samples marking).

2) Model GS-I is the model for INTERNAL GEAR HUBS. On this model restarting of the motor depends on the START of the shifting cable movement, plus defined time period. This is because system does not need to wait until the end of the movement of the chain to choose a sprocket or a chainring. MODEL GS-I IS MARKED ON THE CABLE WITH A RED STICKER (samples marking).

And

Bafang BBS01 and BBS02 systems:

Every Bafang BBS motor is equipped with two connectors for brake sensors (HIGO, yellow 3-pin). GearSensors which are compatible with BBS motors are also supplied with the same HIGO connectors. First option is to connect the GearSensor directly to one of these connectors for brakes. Please note that if you do connect GearSensor into this connector, then the restart of the motor could possibly be longer than it should be, because this connector was programmed for brake sensors. The other option is to order directly from Bafang BBS motors with a connector especially programmed for GearSensor, so the restart of the motor will be very fast. For further details please contact us by e-mail and we will help you with the specification of this order.

The end of that paragraph was very interesting.
 
OK, thanks to speedmd for pointing me in this direction.

I have been trying to work out if the Bafang will fit my eccentric bottom bracket.

Thanks to a technical drawing thrown my way (from way back in this thread) I think I stand a good chance, even if it means adding a chain tensioner.

View attachment 1

Alternativ-Bafang02.jpg
 
I have one further question.

Assuming there is space, it there any reason why the motor HAS to be under the front downtube, and not placed inside the frame, either between the downtube and seat post out seat post and chain stay?
 
CmdrBond said:
I have one further question.

Assuming there is space, it there any reason why the motor HAS to be under the front downtube, and not placed inside the frame, either between the downtube and seat post out seat post and chain stay?
No id it fits it fits. It almost fit in the frame of my Trek Pure. That IMO would be the perfect fit.
 
CmdrBond said:
I have one further question.

Assuming there is space, it there any reason why the motor HAS to be under the front downtube, and not placed inside the frame, either between the downtube and seat post out seat post and chain stay?

Managed to pull off that location with a beach cruiser, but it was very tight fit.

IMG_20150807_184726_zpsxv6qn165.jpg
 
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