new battery 12ah only 5m range !!!

why did you add another? did you test the capacity and found it was lower than the others? i see no reason for you to do that with no info. it needed for you to drain the charge off and adding another can is not gonna remove charge from that cell.
 
... and put one extra cell in line for more capacity) you said it so
and it seem to me logical cause the voltage after drained down was less and when charging was higher than the others
so a less ah group is an explanation.
after all you said that you never tryed it before so now we will see how it goes and everyone here will have a clue.. :)
if its waste of time tell me to cancel it
 
i do not remember saying to do that. i just wanted to get the cell that was high discharged down the same voltage as the others.

i have added extra pouches to channels where the capacity was lower than the others when i built up my 87Ah ping pack but i did that on the basis of calculated capacity for each channel during the construction of the pack.

you have not measured capacity on this pack so no way to know what it needs. first it has to be balanced and then you can measure capacity later.
 
today i did 10 klm test and came back mesuring the cells from the bms cables all of them were sitting at 3,26-3,27
total 52,4
but steel when i was pushing the throtlle at full the voltage was droping to 43,0 volts
is this an issue or am i ok with the compination of the motor-contoller-battery scheme ??
do i have to test the phase wires even now ?
 
That's a lot of sag. Assuming your battery is OK, you must be drawing a lot of current. A wrong phase/hall wire combination would cause that or maybe a faulty MOSFET in your controller or something similar.
 
:) I would just rule the high current thing out (sag) once and for all then start looking at the battery, as its a very easy thing to test for.
 
at 3.26V it is only about 20% SOC so the sag will always be large when the cells are not able to get enuff free ions into the electrolyte to carry the current. do we even know how much current?
 
dnmun said:
at 3.26V it is only about 20% SOC so the sag will always be large when the cells are not able to get enuff free ions into the electrolyte to carry the current. do we even know how much current?
I don't think he has ever measured it.
 
motornews said:
i have somewhere a turnigy watt-volt....analist
so tomorow i will bypass it so you will have a clue
hi there
its a bit chily out there and i am indoors(turnigy bypass full threotlle+fulla brake to take numbers:
1198 Wp
26,98 Ap
42,18 Vm (this is a huge drop or what)(whenits fresh charged the minimum is 44,3)
0,039 Ah
52,2 V (this charge is 4 days old and i made until now 12 klm)
 
so you are saying you applied the brake at full throttle to get these numbers?.. no try it with out the brake and full throttle with the wheel in the air.. this is the numbers we need
 
gwhy! said:
so you are saying you applied the brake at full throttle to get these numbers?.. no try it with out the brake and full throttle with the wheel in the air.. this is the numbers we need
full throtlle with the weel on the air
284,2 wp
0,002 ah
48,02 vm
5,91 ap
0,1 wh
 
motornews said:
did it and i thing it goes mutch faster without load
the 5,1 became 9,5.is this low again?(the wheel on air)
a second attempt,more agressive
0,002 ah
0,1 wh
726,1 wp
50,2 vm
14,52 ap
i thing we are ok?
today here in greece we have the annual carnival and everybody will be out
so must the ''chicken'' go out....
 

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:D i didnt even realise you are running 2 hubs!

is this from 1 controller ?
if you are getting 9a no load with 2 hubs i would still say that is why to high i would say around 2-3a max per hub would be about the right pull

edit:
just also realise you are talking peak amps ! what is the current when its at full throttle once its finished accelerating.
 
With 750W no load - you definitely have the wrong hall-phase wire combo. These are the wires running between the motor controller and the hub motor. ES wiki has a guide and more on finding the correct combo.
 
no no
the picture is last years
only one hub now
and the current after riching max and no load its 1,6 a
(the 2 hub bike was with 2 controllers-2throtlles-to batterys) KILLER
SO...
 
motornews said:
no no
the picture is last years
only one hub now
and the current after riching max and no load its 1,6 a
(the 2 hub bike was with 2 controllers-2throtlles-to batterys) KILLER
SO...
last post for tonight
i chacged the wiring before getting these resalts
and it feels diferent when accelerating its more powerfull now more vivid.
going out talk tomorrow bue
 
motornews said:
motornews said:
no no
the picture is last years
only one hub now
and the current after riching max and no load its 1,6 a
(the 2 hub bike was with 2 controllers-2throtlles-to batterys) KILLER
SO...
last post for tonight
i chacged the wiring before getting these resalts
and it feels diferent when accelerating its more powerfull now more vivid.
going out talk tomorrow bue

So are you saying that the amps where much higher than 1.6a and you changed the wiring and now its 1.6a

1.6A no load is approx what i would expect from a correctly wired hub.
 
no no gwhy
the first time mesurements i took them from thetrynity gauge witch shows the maximums
didnt know that must wait full throtlle and when the acceleration is max then see the gauge
so i dont know how mutch was that 1,6 before
but steel when i ride it now i have a huge sag on volts 44 - 43
this is maybe because the bat is from the seller-vpower- so the quality is not...
although until now had no issue with the 18650 witch he was using from the moment he switched in 26650
you get the feeling that there is not enough power in your throtlle
 
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