new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Taming the beast. / I am a ruthless pirate but on vacation.

When contacting the manufacturer of the winch motor rated at 24V to inquire about the rpm the answer I get is that it will vary depending on the load.

I e mailed them back asking what the rpm would be at 0 load. and maximum load and then average or normal load. These things will need to be cleared up as when I go to gear this thing I need this information. the average or normal recommended load will need to be calculated.

I am not going to do some short directly to the batteries either as I would like the bike to have some margin of safety and a relativity sane ride where I can safely operate it with a crash helmet at approx. 43 mph maximum speed. 30 mph normal speed and 20 mph or less with pedal assist for areas in the city where roads are bad and police cruisers monitor traffic.

http://prntscr.com/cx66uj

This controller looks like the best bang for the buck. Somewhat similar in design to its little brother I am running now. The 40 amp variable controller with the pot.
However this one has a fan for cooling and looks like it is beefy enough to handle 100 amps as it is rated.

Obviously a 12V motor like the one DA originally posted could work at 24V but the rpm would be 4200 @ 24V instead of 2100 @ 12V. I would need a much larger sprocket to accommodate that. I would rather have a smaller sprocket as it would save me money and not be as noticeable when riding.

I have seen custom builds that cost about 10 times as much to maybe go 10 or 15 mph faster. the builds I am referring to are also over 10 times more noticeable
especially with a FULL custom triangle case. The motor can be hidden inside of a black wooden box on a sturdy factory rear rack similar to the stock Curry one on the beginning of this build. with 1" diameter holes drilled in the front towards the rear seat and one of my large 12 to 14 V cooling fans mounted in the back pulling air thru the enclosure and around the motor.

A small low profile front triangle case as far forwards as possible will be where I put the 6S LiPo packs in parallel. I am hoping to be able to afford like six or eight as I am looking to add some considerable amount of weight to the front for equal weight distribution as the motor, chain and rear sprocket will go about 30 pounds. I can also hang a small Wall-Mart wire rack on the front handlebars where I can put my chain and padlock which weigh about 7 pounds. Total weight of the bike , motor and batteries plus a chain and lock should be between 60 and 70 pounds. Not 95 to 105 pounds like the original Currie 36V set up with the three 22AH SLAs.

In case your wondering why I am back it is because I did about all I can do on Pirates. I played a little over six months and only put $25 into the game but over 1,000 hours probably. I not only beat a lot of the money players but was in the #8 ranking brotherhood and the last day I played was #8 in offense out of about 130 players.

I also led my own brotherhood and named it. I have left because I was dealing with a sore loser who threatened to turn me in and accused me of cheating. I did not use any mods or hacks in the game. I was accused of multiple accounts. :lol: The game is most unfair when someone who makes 1,000 a week can put $100 or $200 into the game to get 5,000 troops instantly to beat up some poor guy who cant afford to pay money and only build about 500 troops. There is only one way to compete with that. I basically come from the command and conquer school of red alert 2 type games from westwood studios.

I play my way and I beat the crap out of the big money players and they are very sore losers. :lol: I sunk too many of their ships and raided their resources killing over 3,000 enemy troops and sinking around 1,000 ships they paid money to build in the last 24 hours playing and when threatened to be shut down decided to leave. LOL I will be back though and plan on bringing the mods and cheats with me this time to run the money snitches right out of the game. Until I find some good software though I am taking a break.

DA. Do you know about a device that goes between your router and computer which generates multiple IP addresses. Also I am looking into a software program that will create up to 8 IP addresses. That plus the hack tool will do the trick. :lol: Thanks guys and I will be ordering the 24V motor if they give me some general idea of what rpms I am dealing with.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

I played a little over six months and only put $25 into the game but over 1,000 hours probably.

The game is most unfair when someone who makes 1,000 a week can put $100 or $200 into the game to get 5,000 troops instantly to beat up some poor guy who cant afford to pay money and only build about 500 troops.

Not to shoot you down, but only 1.9% of players pay for in-game purchases on free games, and of those that do, the average spend is $5.58 per week, with 40% of players spending less than $1 a week on average.

Odds are pretty slim that you were fighting a money player, and even slimmer that the money would have given him much of a statistical edge.

Sometimes, it's just the players with the most time, or willing to bend the rules, that win. No chance you actually *did* have multiple accounts, and got banned, and now that's why you're taking a "break" and wanting to know how to get specifically "8" extra IP addresses? Sounds a bit sus to me.

By the way, the device you described is called a network address translator. That's the good news, and the better news is that you probably already have one!

The bad news of course is that if you put it between your computer and the router, the router will just translate it back to your public IP address and you'll look exactly like you did before. In order to get additional IPs, you will need to get your ISP to route them to you, then have a router that is capable of handling multiple IP addresses - most home routers aren't.

 

[latecurtis]

I heard there was a software program for that.

Back to the bike Do you have any idea if the set up I described would work ?

I am hoping for my first professional 40 mph build.

http://prntscr.com/cxdtgk


This one DA posted had the rpm I was looking for.

http://prntscr.com/cxdtwm


I cant seem to get a straight answer on the 24V model which is the one I need for that 100 amp controller for 40 mph.

The controller can go inside the triangle rack and with the box over the motor the setup could be almost waterproof if done correctly.
There is even a chance that the Stock factory Currie rack in the start of this post could be modified to work for this. The wooden box would be easy to build and they make water resistant paint. Several holes drilled in the front of the box behind the seat and a fan blowing air out mounted in the back of the box to cool the motor and give it stealth and functionality.

What would your guess be on the rpm for that 24 V motor. I do not want to use or order a sprocket which wont work. Also I am not sure if a standard 9 hole spoke sprocket kit will fit on the rear 29" wheel. Please let me know.


LC out.

 

[Sunder]

I heard there was a software program for that.

If someone mentioned that, it could have been a VPN - it routes you to another country, and you borrow one of their IPs for a time. Very popular with Australians, who want to watch HBO shows when they're released, not a couple months later.

Back to the bike Do you have any idea if the set up I described would work ?

Can't see why not. Winch motors tend to be wound for quite a low speed and high torque, though some, if sold as part of an assembling, can be higher speed, and massively geared down. Without knowing the history of the motor, no way for you to tell.

By the way, went for my first decent ride on my road scooter today. Hit 80km/h (Roughly 50mph), but it was wet and the tyres are new, so I didn't want to push it much harder. Give it 100kms, or a couple of weeks to wear the tyres in, and I'll see what it can really do.

 

[latecurtis]

sweet.

I am wondering why these winch motors are not more popular for builds. I saw a you tube video testing one and could tell they are the real deal. BEEFY. the sound and way it spun show lots of brute force or raw power and torque. They make those unite motors look like toy motors for a kid in comparison. Do I still need to know the rpm on the 24V motor though or do you think even if it is high like 4,000 + rpm , the high torque by design it could still work with smaller type sprockets ?

I have not heard back from the company. Please give me your opinion.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

sweet.

I am wondering why these winch motors are not more popular for builds. I saw a you tube video testing one and could tell they are the real deal. BEEFY. the sound and way it spun show lots of brute force or raw power and torque. They make those unite motors look like toy motors for a kid in comparison. Do I still need to know the rpm on the 24V motor though or do you think even if it is high like 4,000 + rpm , the high torque by design it could still work with smaller type sprockets ?

I have not heard back from the company. Please give me your opinion.

LC. out.

Why isn't it more popular? How many chain drive reduction bikes have you seen? I've seen the power that jet turbines can put out. They're pretty beefy as well. Why aren't they more popular for cars? The right tool for the right job is more important than the sheer power behind it.

My opinion is that you ALWAYS should design properly, rather than let the specification soak up the damage from your poor design. Lets say it IS a 4000rpm motor, but due to your gearing, it runs at a max of 1000rpm. A big enough motor will soak and shed the heat - no damage. But then:

1. You're wasting a lot of battery capacity - you might easily double, or even triple your range with the same battery, had it been geared properly, or you had chosen the right rpm.
2. You're carry too much weight with you - That block of metal soaking up the excess inefficient heat might well weigh over 20kg. If you sized and geared it right, no reason why you couldn't be hauling around 5kg for the same outcome
3. The flip side of 2, is that if you're gonna carry say a 5kw winch on your bike, why would you gear it for say, 1kw, by choosing the wrong gearing?
4. You're probably shortening its life. Even though you're not "damaging" it per se. You don't know if you're overheating the windings, and causing accelerated decay, or wearing out any teeth inside it prematurely.

 

[DAND214]

I lust wanna know what kinda sprocket your gonna find for that motor. Maybe to can get it machined down to something you can use :lol: :lol: :lol:
You really want to go only 40mph, then just get a better controller 72v a couple more 6s packs and do it on the Schwinn. Scary as hell but WTF, we only live once. Been there done that, no thanks anymore for me. I'm happy at 20 with a max of 30_ if needed. A frickin hub motor is so simple compared to the chain drive you struggle with all the time.

Give up on that crap and live a little. Winter is coming too fast to be try that. I still wish you would get a speedo to see what speed you are really going. A cheap one set to the real tire size. You might be surprised.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. How is Florida.

Stephen's 50cc scooter has been more reliable, in his hands, than what you have come up with, and that is mind-boggling. He can't even read the manual, believes every dumbass he comes across, and is a certified loon, and his transport is more reliable than yours. Ponder that for just a second.
Nelson37
1 kW
1 kW

Posts: 316
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:56 pm
Location: Cape Coral Florida

My wife Mary's son liver in Clear water area. She was talking to him about the storm. There was also a lot of discussion on the Pirate game on that big storm also. We have been getting lots of rain up here but nothing like that.

Also Nelson I am glad to here from you. Glad to hear Stephen is out of the bin and riding around on something decent. You are a good friend to him and it is admirable that you are still helping him out.


It seems that my allies and friends in the game may have helped me out. I am not totally sure yet but tested the waters a little last night and did not have a problem YET. However still do not know if I have all my forces intact. I shall see but with three or four computers all with a separate IP I will be in much better shape and can play more efficient and faster.

ok let me see if i got e mail back on the rpm. That would be no.

Curtis - has it ever occurred to you to wonder why, in a group of mechanical and electrical engineers, skilled fabricators, and experienced e-bikers, with access to machine-shop tools, Nobody and I mean NOBODY is doing what you are doing?

1. You're wasting a lot of battery capacity - you might easily double, or even triple your range with the same battery, had it been geared properly, or you had chosen the right rpm.

Yes I know. It is why I was trying so hard to find out BEFORE ordering the motor. :lol:

You started this adventure by purchasing the WRONG motor, and have stubbornly maintained this course of action, making multiple poor decisions and wiring errors which have served a useful educational purpose for me, at least, as examples of what not to do.

Actually if you go back and read the first 50 or 60 pages you will see that the original or first 1,000 watt 48V Unite motor on the Currie was in fact reliable.
It was driven almost two years without any issues. In fact the build was so perfect that I remember driving it about two miles WITHOUT the axel nuts on the back wheel as I forgot to put them on and noticed it upon returning home. The weight and chain was what kept a disaster from occurring that day.

The only reason it is still not up and running and still reliable was because I took the motor off the bike to put it on a 20" BMX style kids bike as DA would say when I lived in my last apartment due to the narrow stairs and no place to keep the Currie downstairs because the lady who moved in down there and the landlady were , well something not nice to say.

Also the Schwinn with the hub motor (DAN) is a perfect example of listening to what you are saying and is also just as reliable as what Stephen is riding and sits out in my hallway right now right next to the 20" Diamond Back and both bikes are 100% fully functional. They also pedal assist. I have two 48V Hub motors and both bikes are capable of over 20 mph. The Schwinn possibly 30 mph and am not wanting to abuse the motor by getting a 60 or 72V controller.

If it is NOT broke, DON,T fix it! Also the 24" cargo bike downstairs is also functional and I could most likly get it to 28 mph also with 44V but as I posted I chickened out and the reason is the bike frame and set up on that I believe is only safe for about 20 mph maximum. THAT statement also proves that I have in fact LEARNED and LISTENED to people here on endless sphere.

Give up on that crap and live a little. Winter is coming too fast to be try that. I still wish you would get a speedo. to see what speed you are really going. A cheap one set to the real tire size. You might be surprised.

So far all I got invested into this NEW insane build is the $20 I spent on the bike and maybe $10 on a tube and some spray paint so it would look half way decent. Also the story on it is it came from a friend of the kid I got it from and when I sent a picture to Doug he said 29" bikes go for around $150 at Wall-Mart. I even checked yesterday and there was a 29" bike up on the rack for $119. Therefore I do NOT believe this bike to be stolen. I do not know the make of the bike but think it might be a Mongoose maybe 10 years old.

Also the original 12V model that DA posted would run at 4200 rpm @ 24V so I do not believe the 24V model to be greater than 4200 rpm and if it is replacing the same motor or used for the same application as the 12V motor DA posted and the rpm at 0 load = 2100 at 24V then it should be a perfect match for what I intend to do with it. If that is even close to being the truth than with all due respect

1. You're wasting a lot of battery capacity - you might easily double, or even triple your range with the same battery, had it been geared properly, or you had chosen the right rpm.
2. You're carry too much weight with you - That block of metal soaking up the excess inefficient heat might well weigh over 20kg. If you sized and geared it right, no reason why you couldn't be hauling around 5kg for the same outcome
3. The flip side of 2, is that if you're gonna carry say a 5kw winch on your bike, why would you gear it for say, 1kw, by choosing the wrong gearing?
4. You're probably shortening its life. Even though you're not "damaging" it per se. You don't know if you're overheating the windings, and causing accelerated decay, or wearing out any teeth inside it prematurely.

none of that would be true but just the opposite.

Believe me I have every intention of finding out BEFORE ordering it and spending a single penny. Also if I can use the stock rack off the Currie for this build I will save time and money. Basically all I really need to order is the motor and controller which is less than $150. That is though if the 56T sprocket I have will fit on the wheel. I already should have a #415 chain long enough. Basically even if it works at all and goes 15 mph it will be worth the little money I will be putting in this build. Call it an experiment. I can even sell the motor on e bay if it runs THAT TERRIBLE and keep the controller for a different build.

My biggest question is what exact part or adapter will be needed and what type of motor sprocket will I need for the motor. I am using #415 chain for the 56T wheel sprocket if it will fit. If not and I need to order a custom sprocket it will still be #415 chain. It would NOT be a good idea to use any chain thinner than that.

At 4200 rpm a 92T wheel sprocket is required for 43 mph @ 2400W input. With the 12V motor the voltage is double recommended therefore NOT a good choice but the 24V model MIGHT work.

Today I am taking the rack off the Currie to see if there is a way to use it to support the motor. I am also taking off the back 29" wheel to see if it will work for the existing 56 tooth spoke sprocket. As I remember a 46 tooth is needed if the rpm is 2100. This means it will probably be geared for around 35 mph if the motor remains close to 2100 under load or only drops a little under load. However if the rpm is 4200 and drops two or three hundred rpm under load I do not know what the performance would be. That is a question for DA.

Please let me know when you can and I would also like to hear from DA on what his opinion is on the rpm of the 24V motor. He posted the 12V model so am sure he knows something about them. If I don't hear from the company on the rpm question DA may have an idea what rpm it is. Thanks everyone for posting.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Wow, that was a mixed up post. You quoted me twice, and once you said "yes I know" and the other time you said "none of that is true".

Are you back on the juice again?

 

[latecurtis]

http://prntscr.com/cxqluq

Since this is NOT my first build it is NOT e bike building 101 anymore. The simplest and easiest way to build a fast e bike is obviously a hub motor with a 60 or 72V controller. It will also cost four or five times as much to build. The object of this build is to try and attain 40 mph or close to it utilizing as many parts as I have.
The stock Currie rack IS going to work and will be installed by tomorrow and I already have 6S LiPo packs to run a 24V motor.

The link under the bottom picture I sent shows the rpm of a 12V winch motor to be 2100 rpm at 0 load. I am asking the company for the rpm at 0 load for the 24V motor.

Unless you know the general rpm of the 24V motor then there is no way of telling if it is geared correctly or not. Until you ride it that is. Then the performance will give you a general idea. Trial and error can get quite expensive though.

The only facts we have is that the 12V winch motor has a 0 load rpm of 2100.

We need to know what rpm the 24V motor is BEFORE choosing a sprocket size for the MOTOR. Hopefully the 56T will hold up for the wheel as long as I take off gradually and dont do that short thing to the battery.

Also we need to be able to make a good estimate of the rpm of the 24V motor UNDER LOAD once we know what it is at 0 load.

That data will in fact determine the correct wheel sprocket size to make the statements you stated false. If I FAIL to do so, then what you stated will in fact be true. That is what I meant.

For example, If at 2100 rpm at 0 load and at optimum or normal load rpm drops to 1900 then sprocket calculator states that I will get 32 mph with a 29" wheel running a 11T motor sprocket and 56T wheel sprocket. Then all I will need to do to get closer to 40 mph is look for a 13T or a 15T motor sprocket. Since I am looking to do this with parts I have if I can get away with using the 56T spoke sprocket then that is the plan.

It is also why I was hoping DA might have a general idea what rpm the 24V motor is turning at 24V. As we ALL know the way the motor is wound determines the rpm at a specific voltage. If the 12V and 24V motors are used and recommended for the EXACT type of application then chances are the rpm of the 24V motor will be around 2100 rpm also.

Another thing is since these are powerful high torque motors the rpm under load should not drop as much as a Unite motor or lower power lower torque motor would. My guess would be max load would be 1700 to 1800 rpm if 2100 at 0 load but that is just a wild guess.

It is now 3:52 PM Sunday. I sent a second request in for the information on a 24V motor.

http://prntscr.com/cy0fcl

A 12V motor will not work as there is no variable controller I can afford that will do 200 amps and I will not use 12V SLAs either. The build is for 6S LiPo and the free running speed must be close to 2100 rpm like the 12V version is. A simple specification makes a big difference in the gearing. Under load I will assume it to be approx. 1900 rpm. I will be able to use the 56 tooth spoke sprocket and 15 tooth motor sprocket then. gearing will be 3.9 * 15 = 57. My 56 tooth sprocket will then work for 43 mph with a 29" wheel. Sunder is thinking for some crazy reason I plan on over gearing this build. I have NOT ordered any motor yet. I am waiting on the rpm specifications from the factory. Thanks and please let me know about a motor sprocket for that those motors.

LC. out.

 

[ronnieb52]

Hope to hear more.

 

[latecurtis]

I just edited it. Sunder and others are thinking I am over gearing this new build but they may have missed the part where I have not ordered the motor yet and am waiting on the factory specifications on the free running speed and calculating the rpm under load to be approx. 200 rpm less.

I am also waiting on any information on a motor sprocket for #415 chain. Without that information the build will NOT happen.
I am installing the rear rack from the Currie to support a motor today. I will have pictures up soon of the build minus the motor and controller.
I will in fact order the controller first just in case I will need to explore different motor options.

They would include any brushed motor capable of 2400 watts at 24V and 100 amps output.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Not really missing anything. You're speaking hypothetically, so we're responding as if you were continuing down your expected path.

We already know your builds are jerry-rigs and not engineered for reliability and efficiency. Just because it works, doesn't make it a good build.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 1View attachment 3View attachment 2View attachment 1OK.

If I do in fact get the information I am seeking from the manufacturer do you know what I will need to put a motor sprocket on one of those motors ?
I do not believe they make a motor sprocket for a winch motor that will use #415 bicycle chain so I will probably need some sort of adapter kit.

I will look for a 15 tooth now just in case the rpm is around 2100 on that.

Please let me know as I don't have a clue on that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQtDpGAusA8&feature=youtu.be

The wheel has a wobble in it that it did not have before putting the spoke sprocket on WITHOUT the rubber pieces I lost. Perhaps if I get a spoke tightening tool and tighten the spokes on the opposite side it will fix that. Basically what I did when installing the spoke sprocket was to tighten up all the spokes on that side.
Basically it is ready for a motor. Notice the two motors on the window sill in the bottom picture. Both Unite and running, One is 24V and 500W and the other is 36V and 800W. neither motor will work though as the rpm is too high.

http://prntscr.com/cy1f5l

http://prntscr.com/cy1hxz

http://www.scooterpartshouse.com/15-tooth-front-sprocket-size-410-uses-bicycle-style-chain-p-2038.html

http://prntscr.com/cy1jen


LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320A-Brushed-Brush-Speed-Controller-ESC-For-RC-Car-Truck-Boat-Dual-Single-Motor-/112135980634?hash=item1a1bd3465a:g:gQMAAOSwvzRX1hOe

What is this ?

Could it work for the 12V winch motor ?

We already know the rpm on that. 2100 rpm at 0 load.

I guess I could kill the SLAs and then a few car batteries. :lol:

 

[DAND214]

Sure, why not! Only $15 for a on off switch. That is about all you will get out of it.

Do you know what a 540 motor is? I'm sure you do and that is what that controller is capable not much more.

you will also need a servo tester for the throttle, so don't forget that.

dan

 

[DrkAngel]

Might work for 1 or 2 brief runs!

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-30V-100A-3000W-Programable-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Control-/371521297570?hash=item5680651ca2:g:eTMAAOSwX~dWhO2o


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WINCH-MOTOR-24V-FOR-RAMSEY-PIERCE-WINCH-VIME-WINCH-46-2289-46-3523-MMD4001/231832756458?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39035%26meid%3D50c5752c11ae4f14bd3d92cfecc55776%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D371181209341


It looks like I am NOT going to get the answers I seek from the company.

http://prntscr.com/cydzd5

Ok I have three questions I really want to ask. The 100 amp variable controller at the top. Will it work for a long time or is that only good for two or three runs.

The second question is should I order the 12V motor and run it at 24V and gear it for 4200 rpm knowing that it is 2100 rpm with 0 load
or should I order the 24V motor and try to use it with the 56 tooth spoke sprocket I am currently working with ?

Pretend the world is like the movie Mad Max from thunder-dome and it is your only means of transportation to get resources and get back to your safe haven. :lol:

I can simply order a motor and see what the performance will be by testing it and if it needs a larger sprocket I will call Kings Custom sprockets and order a larger one.

Third question.
Can I please get a listing for whatever adapter is required to put a sprocket on one of those motors ?

Please let me know.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 33 mph now. 55 mph later. :lol:


http://prntscr.com/cyj2wf

Frankly I am very sick and tired of trying to find the specs for a 24 V winch motor.

The original 12V motor will in fact work for 50 mph easily with the 400 amp Kelly controller. I will also price 3 gauge wire.

It is rated for 400 amps for I minute which is about all I will get using the six SLAs I own. DA , Please tell me you were kidding about SLAs exploding when discharging too rapidly. :lol:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cadence-0G100-BLUE-0-AWG-3-Foot-Gauge-Car-Amp-Power-Ground-Wire-/301893133717?hash=item464a3ba595:g:0UIAAOSwxp9W4ELK&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cadence-0G100-BLACK-0-AWG-Gauge-4-Feet-Amp-Ground-Wire-Car-Audio-Cable/301928575290?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39861%26meid%3De97f49f09b7243fc9dc3fe2649a37df4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301893133717


http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-ft-4-Gauge-3-RED-and-3-Black-Car-Audio-Power-Ground-Wire-Cable-Feet-AWG-/390917377285?hash=item5b047dcd05:g:G6QAAOSwGvhT2EMB&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-AOK-400-400-amp-125-Volts-or-less-Forklift-Fuse-/391551012887?hash=item5b2a425017:g:nywAAOSwvzRXzGIb


Can I save money and use the two rolls of 4 gauge wire on the bottom or will the 0 gauge links above work better ? I only wish to wire this one time so it needs to be good for 400 amps for when I get the kelly controller.


Actually if that is true about SLAs exploding covering me in acid I may order 3S LiPo packs when I order the kelly controller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Bandit-1-10-3S-11-1V-5200mAh-50C-Lipo-Battery-w-Traxxas-Plug-/371732641264?hash=item568cfdf5f0:g:SRsAAOSwi0RX0zkQ

I can order two and run them in parallel. Also two 22AH SLAs in parallel. when I kill the six I have. However the SLAs will be for 0 to 25 mph or around 1C discharge or 44 amps * 12.5V = 550W. Then when I want to go 25 to 55 mph I can hook up the 3S - 50C LiPo packs in parallel. The SLAs will get me to the place I wish to race and back home after the race.

Can I use the 100 amp controller I posted for now though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-30V-100A-3000W-Programable-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Control-/371521297570?hash=item5680651ca2:g:eTMAAOSwX~dWhO2o

It should be good for 1320 watts when the SLAs are fully charged. 13.2V * 100 amps = 1320W.
It will be faster than anything I have built so far and I can save up the money for the Kelly controller , the two 3S LiPo packs and a new spoke sprocket kit (with the rubber inserts) for next summer to go 50 mph. Until then I should get close to 35 mph. I can live with that for now,

Also At 2,000 rpm (under load) sprocket calculator gives top speed to be 34 mph with a 29" wheel and a 55.77T motor sprocket. I have a 56 tooth already on the wheel so estimated top speed should be around 33 mph at 1330 watts and drop to approx. 31.5 mph when the voltage drops below 12.5V.

Please let me know what sprocket and adapter will be needed for the original motor DA posted. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Lrw0001-Bi-Directional-Mbj4407-Liftmore/dp/B00KGIC0E0/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1475676663&sr=8-33&keywords=12v+motor



LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

SLA x excessive discharge = heat + boiling sulfuric acid + Hydrogen gas >>> explosion potential!

 

[DAND214]

DON'T FORGET THIS http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Trick-H...m2c5f6982b6:m:mqGhpXg-9XVhPM6Dhcp7CJw&vxp=mtr
If I can do it with a hub motor, you might need one of these.

No alligator clips allowed

Dan

 

[Sunder]

1 of these:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2-4v-3Ah-2-9Ah-Lithium-Titanate-Li-ion-LTO-battery-cell-tapped-terminals-/182310497189?nav=SEARCH

Can put out 187A.

That means a 12v pack of them will put out 2.2kw.

That means 2 packs will put out 4.4kw.

All for just $85.00 + shipping!

 

[latecurtis]

OK. It makes perfect sense then to NOT run SLAs when I get the Kelly controller.

The 100 amp variable controller will limit total power output to the motor to 1350W. 33 mph.

Later on when I get the Kelly controller I will be running the LiPo packs so there wont be any issue of exploding batteries.
Also the Kelly controller should have some type of setting to control the motor so it wont flip the bike.

http://prntscr.com/cykve0

$70 for shipping. The 3S LiPo packs I posted are 50C discharge. I don't see why they would not work.

So what do I need to put a motor sprocket on the motor. Please let me know as I really have no clue.



LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. alibaba

I have been checking out this company ever since I started posting here on endless-sphere. I am not quite sure what the criteria is though for ordering.
I think you need a distributors license or something. I am not sure but DAMM they seem to have every kind of motor anyone would need to build an e bike.
This particular motor got my attention.

https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/24v-dc-motor-2kw_60442221071.html?spm=a2700.7911585.1998930043.77.lHx8aI&s=p

I am not sure what I would need to do to order wholesale but if anyone else would be interested in any of these motors maybe we could work together to make it happen.
Since DA already runs a business perhaps he could place an order there. We could find out who wants motors and a few of us could send DA the money thru a money-gram like at Wall-Mart. It does not cost a lot and I trust DA so would Sunder and Dan. Nelson I believe probably does also so if we get enough people we could make this work.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MY1018-Brush-motor_1797273359.html?spm=a2700.7911585.1998930043.49.IXAPfJ&s=p

For example this looks like the stock Currie motor I ran and beat the holy hell out of before it finally burnt up. It was a strong motor which went about 25 mph @ 36V
I would order like two of those for smaller builds and the 2.2 killowatt 2900 rpm motor for my 29" bike instead of that winch motor. If we can get two or three other people interested in ordering maybe we could make it work. Shipping would be cheaper anyway if it were split four or five ways instead of four or five separate orders.

I have looked several times for a contact number for them but did not find it.

Please get back to me on this. I am sure I saw plenty of great deals on hub motors also. This could be a great thing for any ES members interested. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

$70 for shipping. The 3S LiPo packs I posted are 50C discharge. I don't see why they would not work.

I was being a bit sarcastic about that. The batteries I linked are effectively super capacitors. They can deliver the current 20-30,000 times and can be charged faster than they can be discharged.

You might get 20-30 cycles (without the extra 000s on the end) out of LiPo if you are discharging at the maximum rated current every time.