Hooked everything up when I got to Minneapolis, but the bike would only accelerate roughly for about a second and then quit. Took all the connections apart and blew in them and reconnected and then the bike ran smooth for 4 miles before developing the same problem. Tried redoing the connections with blowing but it did not fix. Was able to get home at decent speed by doing ~1 second throttle bursts. Bike ran really rough at low speeds doing this and pretty rough when getting closer to would be normal max speed, but ran somewhat smoothie at medium speeds. In the 4 miles home pulsing the throttle neither the controller nor motor got excessively hot. Any idea what's wrong? My best idea is to redo the throttle and/or hall sensor connection, but I fear it may be more than that.
On a trip; ebike is broke.
- Thread starter Rifle
- Start date
spisska
10 W
Before you go nuts taking everything apart, does your bike have a e-brake?
I had a similar issue where the ebrake would engage intermittently, cutting off the engine. Simply disconnecting it solved the problem; reconnecting it only to one brake lever solved it permanently.
I had a similar issue where the ebrake would engage intermittently, cutting off the engine. Simply disconnecting it solved the problem; reconnecting it only to one brake lever solved it permanently.
Ykick
1 GW
Definitely check the brake switches and if that doesn't reveal anything give the Hall sensor + Phase power wire connections a very close look for pins pushed out the back of housings, etc.
I forgot to mention, sometimes the bike goes wide open throttle right when I turn it on. Removing the brake connection did work for a moment though. And when I reconnected it, things still worked for about a mile. Really just seems like every connection on the bike is janky. Always seem to have trouble with this bike when I first connect everything be reconnecting stuff has inevitably fixed it... Until now. Maybe need to clean the connections? I think one time I solved things by spitting in one of the connections...
But basically it has to be the connections, right? Hitting them can cause the wide open throttle issue and reconnecting them sometimes solves the issue, so it's got to be an issue with them, right? Gonna try cleaning them. If that doesn't work I'm at a loss; they look fine.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Sounds like corrosion or dirt in the connectors. Try cleaning them with a mild acid, like lemon juice, or Arby's sauce. Let them soak in it for 30 minutes or so, and then rinse them out with rubbing alcohol (or Tequila, if that's all you have handy... worked for me last trip!)
I keep a packet of Arby's sauce in my tool kit for this very reason. it's thick so it will stay put long enough to work, and has gotten me out of many jams while on the road.
I keep a packet of Arby's sauce in my tool kit for this very reason. it's thick so it will stay put long enough to work, and has gotten me out of many jams while on the road.
Eskimo
1 kW
Fingers crossed how my MXUS is gonna work, i am starting 1000km-trip tomorrow morning. Weather is warm but occasional hard rains might fall.
All creativity needed to find mid-day charging places down the road. Cab stations and camping areas have plugs usually, gas stations are harder.
Good luck!
All creativity needed to find mid-day charging places down the road. Cab stations and camping areas have plugs usually, gas stations are harder.
Good luck!
Brakes make the motor cut, not run rough.
You get rough running when there's something wrong with a connection in a phase or hall wire to the motor, or when you have a faulty hall sensor, or when you have a faulty FET in your controller.
Did your motor get wet before this problem started? If so, look for water in the motor.
Did your controller get wet?
You get rough running when there's something wrong with a connection in a phase or hall wire to the motor, or when you have a faulty hall sensor, or when you have a faulty FET in your controller.
Did your motor get wet before this problem started? If so, look for water in the motor.
Did your controller get wet?
USAEBIKECO
10 kW
Rifle,
I have had this problem in the past when I first got started ebiking. From my experience it sounds like the battery BMS, or the controller box that's the problem. There is a voltage/amp cutoff going on somewhere.
If you can swap out either or, you can pinpoint which one is the problem.
I have had this problem in the past when I first got started ebiking. From my experience it sounds like the battery BMS, or the controller box that's the problem. There is a voltage/amp cutoff going on somewhere.
If you can swap out either or, you can pinpoint which one is the problem.
The controller has never gotten that wet I don't believe, certainly not recently. The motor is another story, that has gotten soaked a number of times but most of those were awhile back. I know for sure there is water in there because one time it bubbled put when it got really hot on a hill climb last autumn. I was planning on cracking it open this winter but never got around to it. I guess I'll be getting around to it now. Battery works fine on my other bike.
dnmun
1 PW
drain the water out and then blow dry the hall sensors with air and then test them with your voltmeter while slowly rotating the wheel. if they are shorted permanently that will show up then and if they are not shorted after that then you should be able to run with it.
Ugrd
10 W
I dont know if you still in Minneapolis or not. But if you are you can swing by here and steal a few of my hall sensors if you need to 
-Ugrd
-Ugrd
Thanks for the help y'all. Got home and tried to open it up and heard a few pops so I took a look at the progress and the magnets on one side were sticking much farther out than those on the other. Backed the gear puller up and put stuff back in (but did not bolt on the cover, so I guess maybe everything was just too loose in there to line up right) and tried to rotate the wheel and it was difficult and there was lots of scratching. Does this mean the stator is bent? (Ruminating over this more, I'm thinking probably not, eh?) There was still was the popping going on when I tried extracting it again so I left it as is for now. Is multiple popping as you slowly push it out with the gear puller normal? At no point did it take much force to turn the gear puller. Is it possible to damage anything when removing the stator if using a gear puller and minimal force?
gazmunch
100 mW
Assuming you have a non-geared hub, loud popping is normal when you pull open the cover. Don't worry about it.
dnmun
1 PW
sounds like the magnets came unglued.
gazmunch
100 mW
The fact that your bike goes to full throttle sometimes makes me think that your throttle is fubar... Cheap throttles can go this way if they get a good soaking. Do you have another that you could try? This doesn't explain the rough ride a mid-speed, but it would explain the unexpected full-throttle. The rough ride sounds like a phase and/or hall connection issue to me.
Well, went ahead got it all the way open today, and I'd say it looks like the stator is indeed bent. The repeat popping that was occurring appears to not be normal. I was able to avoid it by hittting axel sideways to even out any uneven progress that was occurring with regards to the stator emerging from rotor. But the initial popping must have bent the stator despite the minimal force that was used. Looks like I may be able to fix it though: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50899.
It's quit rusty inside and there appears to be quite a bit of corrosion on the hall sensors and the circuit board near them so I'm going to go about testing those first.
EDIT: Yep, one of the halls is shot. Gonna go about trying to straighten the stator first though, since that could be tricky.
It's quit rusty inside and there appears to be quite a bit of corrosion on the hall sensors and the circuit board near them so I'm going to go about testing those first.
EDIT: Yep, one of the halls is shot. Gonna go about trying to straighten the stator first though, since that could be tricky.
