Please Help, Astro 3210 - 12 FET LYEN Controller

[comradegerry]

I am stuck at the tail end of my build. Everything is connected as you would expect, 48v battery connected to 12 FET LYEN Controller, controller connected to a 10 turn Astro 3210 with Matts cool reduction drive, 1/2 twist throttle connected to Motor.

I disconnected the CA to rule that out as a problem, so with that out of the equation the following happen when I turn the throttle.

The motor barely turns over, in the right directon, with the wheel off the floor, so minimal load it creeps up in speed and then faulters, motor was drawing 6 volts max when it stalls. Batteries have just over 50v in them. I tried all 6 of the wire combinations between the controller and the motor, same result, 3 spin forward slowly, 3 spin backwards slowly.

My Astro is sensorless and it is a sensorless controller, I had hoped they would talk to each other but I may be wrong? I have heard of synch issues but did not expect them at no load. I planned to set a 4 mph speed minimum through the CA to solve the start up issues as I had seen someone else on here do.

I am also planning to add Burtie's optical sensor soon, even if I can get it working without.

Any ideas on what to check or do? I did have a short the first time I plugged the battery in due to putting the plastic polarity cap on the wrong way, they are only fool proof if you assemble them correctly the first time Could that have blown something in the controller? It was just a brief but large spark!

I would buy a new controller today if I knew it would work but I do not want to throw good money after bad if I am barking up the wrong tree. I would have gone down the CC HV 160 route but at over 50 volts hot of the charger the battery would kill it.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Attached is a photo of the almost working bike.

 

[NeilP]

1/2 twist throttle connected to Motor.

Hopefully you mean connected to controller :wink:

The motor barely turns over, in the right directon, with the wheel off the floor, so minimal load it creeps up in speed and then faulters, motor was drawing 6 volts max when it stalls. Batteries have just over 50v in them. I tried all 6 of the wire combinations between the controller and the motor, same result, 3 spin forward slowly, 3 spin backwards slowly.

Again..6 amps ( I assume that is what you mean) is a lot for no load.

have you tried with the chain drive disconnected, so it is just the motor spinning and not driving the gearing

Other thing to try is spin the wheel manually first and then open the throttle. I have only ridden one sensor-less bike ( sorry I lie 2.) and they all stuttered on start up till I got pedalling. They were hub motors too, so maybe RC motors are different.

Is it OK to run an RC motor with a Lyen controller? It could be perfectly acceptable, but I always assumed they were just for hub motors

 

[comradegerry]

Hi Neil

Correct, throttle to controller, tried 2 different models with the same result.

It was voltage I measured going from the controller to the motor, it increased from 0 to 6 volts as the throttle was turned. I did not check the amps, will do that later this afternoon..

There is no load, or minimal, in the system with the rear wheel off the floor, I can turn the motor over by hand and the rear wheel will start to turn

I am not sure if the controller will work, it is all experimentation around here, nothing is standard, no instruction manual, I had hoped it would work though.

Gerard

 

[NeilP]

Hi Neil

Correct, throttle to controller, tried 2 different models with the same result.

It was voltage I measured going from the controller to the motor, it increased from 0 to 6 volts as the throttle was turned. I did not check the amps, will do that later this afternoon..

There is no load, or minimal, in the system with the rear wheel off the floor, I can turn the motor over by hand and the rear wheel will start to turn

I am not sure if the controller will work, it is all experimentation around here, nothing is standard, no instruction manual, I had hoped it would work though.

Gerard

Not sure measuring the voltage out will show you much.
Measure battery current.and put a low value fuse in series with the battery .just to protect the controller in case something bad happens

 

[lostrack]

I would have gone down the CC HV 160 route but at over 50 volts hot of the charger the battery would kill it.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Attached is a photo of the almost working bike.

Yo - 50.4V is fine for CC controllers, they were designed for that. I run mine 12s3p (15AH, 50.4v) off the charger. So does Matt etc. I'm surprised he didn't tell you this?

OF course if you're over 50.4 then yes, I wouldn't fancy your chances.

T

 

[gwhy!1]

are you 100% sure that the controller is a sensorless one ??. it looks like from your picture that you have the hall sensor wires connected to something. Any chance of a better picture ( it may help ) with more focus on the wiring from the controller.

 

[NeilP]

He says it is an Astro motor...so RC type...so pretty sure it will be sensor-less, unless he has added his own sensors..but since he plans to add Burties optic sensor later...WHo knows may be he as already added Hall sensors

 

[comradegerry]

The Astro is at this moment without sensors, which was how I wanted to run it unless I have to add sensors to make it work.

The controller has 3 wires that run to the 3 wires off the motor can, blue, green, yellow from the controller. No change to the combination changes anything apart form the direction of the motor rotation. It is a sensorless controller as far as I know, I told Lyen what I was going to run and he added CA wires, 3 position switch wire and programming plug.

The skinny 3 core wire in a termianal block from the controller goes to the throttle.

The batteries hot off the charger are around 56v so CC HV160 will just fry I fear, hence the Lyen Controller.

This has had me scratching my head for over a week now.