Schwinn chopper ebike buildup questions

Nice rear on that bike, I was more attracted to the wide tire of the spoiler but if this works for you then that's great, but wouldn't a wider wheel provide more stability?
also in my opinion it didn't look bad with all of the washers but I would assume there was alot more movement to them then what was wanted.

as for my bike, I went to a local shop and I asked if they had any spoke nipples in stock and the guy asked what color I wanted and just handed over 10 of them for free, can't argue with that. then as I was replacing the wheel and fender the rivet holding the arm on the left side popped and ended up in two pieces, so now I have to figure out a way to match up a new rivet to the old ones; I believe the replacement kits for the fenders on the old stingrays (Chicago era) should work fine but if someone has an idea I would like to know.
 
Hello Kim, Yeah, I'm just a noob with stuff yet. I had a hard time dijesting the manual for the Icharger 106b the first time. Didn't want to blow nothing up, so I left it sit for two months. Then after looking up the balance info for another thread, I reread it and it shows internal and regen discharge features. So I think I can discharge the batts while using a power supply. Parker, look up Riv nuts in the search area. Glad you got the message, and nipples already. The rear tire on the spoiler, [if that's the one you are talking about} is the only one I could get locally that fits the original rim on the 5x12 from Methods. This wheel will be sent to JRH when funds permit, to be replaced with a motorcycle rim and DOT tire. The factory rims on these Schwinns is too weak for a hubmotor. Besides, I have a fetish for chrome! 8) I will use it as is for testing purposes before shipment. The 12x5 on the OCC bike, Stripper, has a 1.5 inch rim, and has a 3 inch wide tire, that is fat enough for now. I couldn't test the caliper the way it is, which is why I was asking for input. I just figured that it would move under heavy braking, so I decided to remedy the situation with a spacer. Now, I know it will work. Just gotta wait for the parts. So, the rear tubes on the spoiler, they are hollow right?
Brian L.
 
AHH,you lost a fender support arm. Heck, you could use a nut and bolt as a temporary solution. The only reason I'm not already sending you a rear fender, is because of the inflated value I place on one of these bikes in stock form. A rivnut wouldn't help that issue much anyway. You just need another rivet put on. I wonder if you have a local independane bike shop owner in your area? We have one here, but I can't stand behind his work. I have a red OCC fender you could use. Just paint it black, and you solve two issues for the price of one. Decent fender, and you no longer have to remove it to get the wheel off! :D If you want it, you can have it for $20 plus shipping, total mabye $40 at most. If you want, I can even throw in some Ebike stuff for you for free.
Brian L.
 
I just might take you up on that offer.

On another note, I thought the spoilers were 2005 as the earliest production but I received an email from what is left of Schwinn support and was told my bike was made September 15th, 2004. So 14 days ago was my bikes 7th birthday, but the information that I asked for (all paper work and manuals) is not available.
 
I'm stunned you got a response, I registered mine for the warranty, and got nothing at all. Send me the email address you used please, or weblink if you can. Not like I'm expecting any service, but I would like to know when mine was made too. There is a lot of FACTS being said by promenent people that aren't always correct. Looks like they were made for two years, as one other guy has said. I can send pics if you want of that fender, and if you buy, I'll pack it nicely. I forgot to add that the stickers have beed removed, so it's solid red. Looks nicer to me that way.
Brian L.
 
Hello Parker, and thanks for the links. Funny thing is, they look just like the ones I used a year ago! I'll investigate them later. Today I sold my four pack of Lipo batteries to a member in Cali. Now they most likely will be used sooner, better than growing old on my bench. Once the bikes are ready, I'll spring for a set of Nanotechs. They have more staying power, and have a better track record in the sales dept. First I have to finish the rear wheels, mount battery boxes, and figure out a Lyen controller. If anybody knows what the difference between the two three wire connectors is, I would apreciate that info. Also I need a TTL to USB adapter. As well as possibly help setting up the controller I just bought for 88v. Both three wire connectors have green, red, and black wires, but one is male, and the other is female. I sent an email to Lyen, but have no response as yet. Frankly, I'm not really expecting any either. Second hand buy and all. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Update, heard from Lyen, and he will fix it for me. Yay! :D Update, 10,4,11 all four Lipo sold and shipped to Cali member. Hyena's controller is on it's way to Lyen for alteration. Two battery boxes for a charge storage solution ordered and shipped today. One box might even make it onto the Stripper.
Brian L.
 
Finally found a public pic of the bike I always adored, stupidly, of course! it's a horrible handleing refugee from a James Bond movie, the HD, XLCR. This is the inspiration and image I wish to capture with my Spooiler.
1977-harley-davidson-xlcr-1.jpg


Here's a website with lots of goodies for newbs like me that didn't know about it til recently! :oops:
Now I can get the mates to all the connectors on my controllers, and other cool goodies.
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/
Thursday the :shock: {plastic} boxes show up. :oops: I was sure they was aluminum. Oh well, they hold up the Spoilers rear, and that allows access to the toolbox that had that job. :D
Brian L.
 
You'll never guess what happened today...

So, just out of pure curiosity, this morning (9am) I check to see the electric bikes in my area from craigslist..

Well apparently someone in Orlando posted their bike in the wrong section of craiglist (my county, about 150 miles south)..

YES, YOU KNOW IT...
Schwinn Stingray OCC Electric... For $100!!!!

I call the woman and she says she doesn't need it, for whatever reason.. I tell her I'll offer $90.. She says OK..
I immediately go to the local Western Union place at 9:30 and wire her $90..
About 5 min later, I post on craigslist that I need the bike shipped from Orlando to West Palm Beach, FL..
At 10:00am I get a call from someone that is doing a run from Orlando to my area (and south) TODAY!!...
They tell me then can pick it up by 1pm, so I call the lady to say that I have a shipper for the bike, she says ok and we all get on a conference call from my phone, (10:30am).
Bike is picked up at 1:30pm, shipper calls me to say that they're on their way..
By 5:30pm (and $100 later), I've got my replacement BIKE!!!

I will be starting a new thread once I have time to start my new "project" of moving all my current setup and new stuff over to the new bike...
 
Sweet, Happy Halloween Man! That's a decent score just for the bare bike. I paid more than that for my first OCC bike. Feel free to post pics here if you like. I will be looking forward to your build thread. I'm hoping to have an update here after I get some feedback from Cali. Most liklely by the end of the week I hope. The Spoiler hasn't seen daylight in a year, neither has the Stripper. So here are today's pics, I hope they work. Good to hear from you man, and best of luck with the build. Anybody wanting full size pics, just ask, and I will email them, or you can find them on Photobucket/RallySTX.


110111.jpg



1101111.jpg



1101112.jpg



1101113.jpg


Brian L.
 
Thanks to the swiftness of the USPS, I now have two more pieces of eye candy to photograph, when my batteries finish charging. One of these days I really should invest in a decent camera. Today I recieved two Lyen controllers. The original Hyena 66V unit that was send out for modification, and the new $200 88V 75A 18 fet unit that I ended up buying anyway. I can't say enough about the way Mr. Lyen worked with me to resolve my issues, and stand behind his work. Two more big items off the list. Another item is being built and should arrive next week. I will post pics when ready, but I figure you all know what a Lyen controller looks like. I'm gonna post em anyway to document their arrival, and because I'm so proud of em!

Lyen110611.jpg


Brian L.
 
Hi Brian,
Good to see things are comming along with both bikes - new wiring harnesess from icecube57, and controllers from Lyen! Money must be burning a hole in yer pocket :)

Nic pics of the spoiler though Im not to keen on that skinny rear wheel! Ithink it spoiles (no pun) the look of the bike, i prefer the BIG fat rear tyre.

err, that chain looks a bit slack I hope your gonna fix that :lol:

110111.jpg


Once you get em both road worthy you'll be spoiled (again no pun :) ) on which bike to ride. No matter which you choose I imagine the Egrins with be big and last all day while riding. Be carefull you dont get bugs in yer teeth :mrgreen:

Regards
Tom
 
Geez Tom, I thought the dragons or the crusades might have done ya in man. Haven't heard from you in a while now! What ya been doin? That chain is loose cause there's no freewheel on that wheel yet. I been workin out the brakes and tourqe arms. Still waiting on some parts there but that will be done by springtime. The rear tire is a cheapy I got local so I could roll the bike arround. That wheel will be going out to JRH to be relaced with a wider chrome rim, and a fat DOT tire. Then it will look right as rain mate. How is your project doing?
Brian L.
 
New website up! Thanks to Icecube57 for turning me on to Wix.com. It's not finished, but it works!
http://www.wix.com/brian_larson/rallystx128hhj
Happy viewing all.
Brian L.
 
Happy Turkey Day all, here's the new 4S 2P harness delivered earlier this month. Ice does a great job on the copper, I only wish my cam was as good. Looking for a bigger harness for the Spoiler soon, but this one should get me to the store and back. Can'y wait to use it. Cheers.


4S2P.jpg


Brian L.
 
Hey Brian..........just got through reading the whole build thread. :shock:
Gotta say you done a lot with your disabilty do deal with.Kudos :mrgreen:
Just can't figure out how you jam with one arm :shock: Remember seeing Stevie Ray Vaughn playing with his teeth,I think he learned it from his mentor Jimi.
Got the OCC a 2005 model and it came with back and front brakes with no front fender.Black with red flames.Thought I would mention since some where back in your thread you mentioned OCC's did not come with front brakes.Odd year or could be an XL? How do you tell an XL from regular OCC's?
So I guess that the rear wheel is not suitable for hub motor,might as well sell it on Ebay rim,tire,and brake and get what one can? :roll: What about the front?
Do you recall the the distance between your trailing arms in mm's on your OCC's,is it the same as the "Spoiler"? Do you or anyone know if there is ability to squeeze or stretch the arms,and by how much? Haven't had chance to muck with the bike yet as I am still very sore from the accident.
I'm not keen on the idea of a front wheel drive at all.I think it could be dangerous with this bike.
Found another OCC for $40 with single rear brake,front fender and excellent condition seat and wheels.Had been painted though.Figured it would excellent parts bike or a guinea pig for frame mods in case something goes wrong.Haven't picked it up yet as I need someone else to drive because of my injuries.
I was thinking of using 407/4011 on the rear with a 3p3t switch or 3p2t if I can't find one mounted like a two speed shifter.Can get 12v 80A 3p2t for sure for $20.That would be good for 48v 20A I believe.Should make 20mph,oh no?
 
My (almost) finished OCC (electric) Build...

[youtube]iX1lwRFUTkQ[/youtube]

Still waiting on my diamond plate (Tread Brite) aluminum battery boxes..
 
Hello Wolfy, thanks for your input. This build is easy compared to the S10 I built up in 01. It just takes longer with this due to finances. You mean jam with the keyboards? That's easy, I just play one with my left hand, and with my foot I play bass pedals hooked to the other one. Or I play the keytar, and the bass pedals. i would replace at least one keyboard with a sound module, but they cost a lot. I'm good enough now that I'm needing an extra octave of bass pedals, but since a good two octave pesdalboard is a grand or more, I'll have to live with what I have now. Most OCC bikes came without front brakes. The XL is larger than a regular OCC bike. The frame is a foot longer between the seat post and the down tube, on the bottom tube. They are usually blue in color too. If your factory OCC wheel isn't bent or warped at all, I would be interested in it. But it has to be STRAIGHT. I already spent over $200 fixing up the stock OCC Runt I have now, and I STILL have a slightly bent rim on the back. It's better than the one that came on the bike, but it rubs the brakes a little. JRH refuses to modify the factory OCC rims, and I agree with him, they are too weak and too wide for a standard hub laceup. ChoppersUS has replacement rims, they say are better, but other members here have sand that isn't true. You will have to judge for yourself on that. I am too poor to waste money on something I don't absolutely need to finish my Ebikes. I would be interested in the rim strip off the rear wheel, as long as there are no holes. The distance betweeen the rear dropouts? Both bikes are so close that they required buying 9C hubs due to the factory nine inch axle length they have. You could stretch the OCC bike rear stays if you neede to because they are steel frame bikes. The Spoiler is aluminum, so it isn't safe to deform it at all. I actually refuse to drill into. or alter my Spoiler frame due to that reason, as well as the fact that they are so rare. If you look closely al the front forkes on your OCC, you should see that the dropouts aren't exactly flat, but actually have a rounded opening at the top, that is meant to hold the special lock washer on the front wheel axle. the washer slides into this opening, and holds the axle in place allowing you to work on the other side of the wheel. Due to this deformed opening in the front dropouts, they are not suited to hold a hub motor, without special attention given to tourqe arms. Even then, there is so much weight over the rear wheel that a front hub would be likely to spin it's way out from under the bike when hammered in a corner. That would be be a painful crash. People have done it, but I will not. Both bikes measure 6 3/4 inches between the rear dropouts. That translates to about 172 mm on the inside. You will most likely find that the total axle length is the real issue. As you need enough extra axle on the outside, to fasten the axle nuts. My OCC bike has both half inch tourqe arms on the inside of the frame. The L bracket drawing is a perfect fit. I'm not sure what you meant when you talked about [3p3t]?
Sangesf, thanks for the vid of your bike. I really like the DOT rear LED turn signals. Your dash board looks very fine too. Now we need to see some ride vids too! Nice work man, I hope it don't wander off without you! Cheers guys!
Brian L.
 
That will be the last Vid until I'm completely finished...

I'm going to (and have already somewhat) invested in 2 new watt meters-(HK), new 12v 60AH (Lifepo4) "accessories" battery-(eBay), Tread Brite (Alum) Boxes-(craigslist), New Head Unit (Radio, for the non-audiophiles out there), Front (mid-range) Speakers and AMP-(eBay), (already have a 10" Subwoofer with neon lights), Mirrors (Have small tweeters in them!)-(eBay), chrome skull with red LED eyes and Blue LED accent lights-(Pep Boys Auto), new front blinker lights (Still haven't figured out the "best" (non-handlebar) type yet) and 2 LED "wheel flashers" (video below)..

[youtube]bpQ_-KMsdhI[/youtube]
 
Thanks again Sangesf for another cool vid. I really like the blue accent lights under the seat. The vid you posted yesterday, enspired me to think about adding a bananna style seat with sissy bar to my OCC bike. I'm planning to get an original long seat, and the spring style sissy bar kit off Ebay, so I can carry a passenger. I'll have to add foot pegs too, but that's easy.
Brian L.
 
I actually haven't hook up the LED accent lights yet..
What you probably saw, was the reflection of the blue lightning bolt stickers in the chrome on the rear fender... But now that you mention it!... I'll probably put one of the Blue LED accent lights under the seat.. (There's three of them on the one plug). Thanks for the idea! LOL.
So one will go under the seat, one by the front "cockpit" and I'll probably put one facing the front forks so that they'll shine blue too!
This is why I love this thread (and this board)... We give each other good ideas...
(There's another board I'm on and any time you ask for help or ideas, the others usually want you to pay them like $300.. LOL)

P.S. Brian, I still remember you offering to send me a spare OCC for only the cost of shipping.. If I can ever return the favor (or at least thought of a favor), let me know...
I have some spare electric brake handles, rubber grips for handlebars, switch (like I use for my directionals - as seen in my video.) and some other odds and ends.. (Albeit, I'm financially, [UN]stable, right now.:()
 
That's ok, some folks arround here will tell you I'm unstable period! :shock: :oops: So don't feel bad. I live on low income, so it's stable, there just isn't very much of it! :roll: I was sure that was a light under the rear of the seat, it turned out so well. I decided against the Stingray banana seat, due to weak sissy bars and clamps. As always, thank you for your input.
Brian L.
 
RallySTX said:
I was sure that was a light under the rear of the seat, it turned out so well...
Brian L.
Click to expand...
Nope... Just shiny chrome..

Chrome Cleaner by "BlueMagic".
(Cleans Chrome and "removes" rust)

Chrome Polish by TurtleWax.
(Polishes Chrome and "clears" rust)

Once a week, I Polish (takes 30 min).
Once a month, I Clean & Polish. (takes 1hr).

Rust that's on there already almost never "goes away", you can only remove the "surface" rust and "clear" it by polishing.

Before I put on the aluminum boxes, I'll have the forks and rear fender sent out to be re-chromed and will re-install the lightning stickers (you can get replacements from USChoppers).

I'm even gonna wire in some red LEDs in the tailpipes, maybe even "flickering" red LEDs (like the kind that look like candle flames...)
 
I like the exhaust pipe light idea, should look nice whipping by at 20 mph. Here's my first vid uplink. Sorry for the crappy quality, but it's only a 3 mpx cam in 620 dpi mode. Add to that it's soft mounted to the handlebars on a rigid bike on crappy road, and well it looks a bit like this.

http://youtu.be/Z8ZyqK-dS20

[youtube]Z8ZyqK-dS20[/youtube]

Enjoy my coast ride down into the park in 30 degree weather on the OCC runt.
Brian L.
 
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