So ... just how hard can you push your hub motor?

Joined
Sep 17, 2008
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After frying my Crystalyte V1 36V 20A start immediate controller, I've decided to bump up my ebike to at least a 72 V 30A (or more) setup. So it's brought the question back into my mind again. Just how hard can the motors be pushed really?
My motor is a Crystalyte 406, so I'm really interested in feedback beyond 48 V, but it would be great if in one thread people could post their details on all motor types. For example ...
What motor do you have? What are you driving it with? At what point does it start to warm up? And probably the most important - how long have you been doing it, and do you think it will last? :)
 
Got almost 1,000mi on a rear 26" 4011 at 84v40a burst. I know for a fact that a 4011 can take around 2.2kw sustained for 15min without burning up (if you keep it in the power/efficiency zone). Pretty crispy at that point, but still pulls as strong as the day I got it. Glad I have a pedal first controller 'cause I doubt the halls are still alive. :lol: Just got an old 504 that I plan on running 3kw+ over the same commute. We'll see how it does. Keeping the 4011 for the girlfriend's ebike Christmas present. Being 80lbs lighter than me the 4011 should kick ass for her. :mrgreen:
 
HAL posted some good info:
testtemperature-1.jpg


http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5949&p=92743&#p92743
 
I have a 405 motor in a 24"

I am running 66v @ 55amp through it and it pulls very strong for the small motor at mid torque; its kind of like it hits vtech lol.

I remember running full throttle for about 4-5mins on a bit of a windy day ; i felt the motor when i got off and it was quite warm. I think she will talk 55amps at 80v fine .. but on a 20" is best.

-steveo
 
Thanks!
Just wondering why the side of the rim would matter. The bigger the rim means that it will of course draw more current, but 76 volts at 30 amps on a 20" should in fact be the same as 76 volts at 30 amps on a 26". Practically, if you were driving both (20" and 26") side by side with a non-limited controller at 72 v at max throttle, you would see the 26" draw motor current, during peak times. But assuming that both are being limited to 30 amps for example, they should both draw the same max power, and heat up equally.
Does that make sense?
 
The name of the game is to " Gear " it so not be running the controller in current-limiting when at full throttle once up to speed..

A 405 at 80v would have a REALLY HIGH no load speed.. likely not happening even in a 20" wheel under load.. you would be equalizing your speed/wind resistance and the controller would still be current limiting..

The 406 in a 26" wheel would be happy at 48v, ok on level ground at 72v, but on hills would get very hot if you kept the throttle WFO..

At 90v i managed to get my 409 pretty toasty ( can't hold my hand on it for more than a few seconds.. ) and it keeps on ticking !!! ( holding 50 km/h against a strong headwind, 20 celcius ambient temps, 2000w+ for 10 minutes )
 
Climate matters a bit too. I found out the hard way to limit my rides in hot weather to about 30-40 minuites. When I was riding a motor for a full hour uphill in 100 degree weather I melted it in 400 miles. Thanks to lifepo4, I was able to ride the motor to death pretty easy. That was a brushed WE motor at 36v.
 
I ride a 5303.

Can run at 2000 watts all day (35 to 45 mph), and doesn't seem to warm up much. I typically ride in stretches of up to 40 miles at a time, for around an hour or so. 25 mile rides seem to blow by in 45 mins.

Seems like the Crystalyte 5000 series is the way to go, especially with better and stronger batteries coming more and more available these days.
 
smithinparis said:
Thanks!
Just wondering why the side of the rim would matter. The bigger the rim means that it will of course draw more current, but 76 volts at 30 amps on a 20" should in fact be the same as 76 volts at 30 amps on a 26". Practically, if you were driving both (20" and 26") side by side with a non-limited controller at 72 v at max throttle, you would see the 26" draw motor current, during peak times. But assuming that both are being limited to 30 amps for example, they should both draw the same max power, and heat up equally.
Does that make sense?

They would both draw the same max power, But not in the same way. They wouldn't heat up equily when actualy being used on a bike.

A larger diameter wheel is like gearing up. The motor has to work harder to propel the bike, and is fighting higher speed wind and ground resistance too.
That causes the motor to work harder all the time, and cause it to heat up more.

I've pushed my 4012 and 408 above 3000 watts a few times. they preform fine, although normaly they don't get pushed over 1000 watts sustained at full speed, and 1800 watts for acceleration. at those power levels, its still more power than a gas moped, and I can push it further.
 
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