The E-cumbent - A project by Matt Shumaker

ZapPat said:
Very good explanation, Marty!

One problem with these RC controllers is that they are made to be very close to the battery, so thus they can get away with using less bypass capacitors on their main DC power bus.

Think of capacitance being the opposite of inductance. So the more inductance you add into your circuit (between the battery and controller), the more bypass capacitance you also need in (or very close to) your controller. Also make sure these capacitors are good quality ones. I use the Chemi-com KZE series as they have very low ESR for the price, but you may also want to put a good film type capacitors too into the mix too (this is for high frequency bypassing if needed). As others have mentioned, always put these as close as possible to your controller's DC input - specially so for the high frequency film type caps if you use these too.

One thing also to remember is that inductance is not really wire length, but really wire loop area. This means that it's better to run your DC bus wires (+ and -) right beside one another, and twist them also if possible.
Click to expand...

if you add more capacitors you also get a larger spark when you connect them.. with many low ESR capacitors the power could even "burn" a hole in you connector.

i got this tool from an rc site.. http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html what you do is put an extra connector on your batteries with an resistor in series, and when you plug this connector in the capasitors get charged.. then you can connect the the large connectors.. read the info in the link. i can't explain it very good in english.
 
Cheers for that.

I use these............ http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=23074&criteria=capacitor&doy=23m7

Bit on the big side and they have made no difference to the start problems I have but thats hardly surprising since its purely current overload causing the issues....

I have used them on other bikes but you do need a 'connect me first' connector pair with a series resistor in circuit since they do love to chew on current!

Scott
 
hi

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P12393-ND

i would you use these.. or any capacitors from the panasonic FM series.. these are very low ESR
 
i always order my wire at hobbycity.. they also have cheap gold connectors.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6277&Product_Name=Silicon_Wire_10AWG_Super_Soft__(1mtr>)
 
My Hydra came in today. Intersting to say the least.

It looks as though this is merely a HV110 with one extra layer of FETs. The HV110 has 3 FET boards, while the Hydra has 4. I know the HV110 is supposed to handle HUGE burst current. I wonder if the Hydra 240 is rated at 240 amps because it is liquid cooled? By the looks of it, it is just an HV110 with one extra board. That would technically make it a HV160. So, my guess is the added amperage rating is due to the water cooling.

Anyway, I am looking at the manual. One issue that I can see is throttle type. This controller is looking for a RC pistol grip radio that has a center neutral setting for arming. Hmm, that may be an issue. It may turn out to be a weird sequence of plugging in my pack and moving the throttle slowly untill I hear it arm (because the ESC is looking for the "Neutral" setting that would normally be there for a pistol grip radio). I will do some messing around and let you know.

I do not have my wiring or my caps yet. So, I cannot start setting it up.

Soon, very soon.

Matt
 
Hi Matt,

i've been following yours,scotts and miles builds and exchanges with keen interest, the tech side is way above me but just wanted to say best of luck with the new config, it's guys like you that will push ebikes to where they should be imo :mrgreen:

cheers

D
 
I hooked my Hydra up to the Castle Link USB programming cable and went through the setup ritual. Very nice, indeed! The software has the normal Castle Creations stuff like LV cutoff and brake setup, etc. But, this controller also has throttle curve! Very cool! So, I setup a modest throttle exponential. Bascially 50% throttle movement results in about 30% actual throttle at the ESC. The remaining 50% physical throttle movement gives the last 70% actual output. That is perfect because I had been having some minor issues with throttle sensitivity related to running at 10 or 12 mph and the slightest touch of the throttle would give more of a lunge than I wanted, kind of like trying to navigate a slow parking lot with a supercharged car----too much torque on tap. This should cure that.

I have been trying to get through to Castle regarding the throttle stick position/arming thing. (I still haven't hooked it up to try it yet). We shall see.

John,

Any thoughts on this?

Matt
 
deecanio said:
Hi Matt,

i've been following yours,scotts and miles builds and exchanges with keen interest, the tech side is way above me but just wanted to say best of luck with the new config, it's guys like you that will push ebikes to where they should be imo :mrgreen:

cheers

D
Click to expand...

Thanks. Of course, I know virtually nothing about typical E-bikes. I am more of a frustrated engineer trying to adapt one technology to different application, then pushing it to the absolute limit. I feel like a moron, though, when I hear everyone talk abouy hub motors, Ping packs, BMS, etc. :D

Matt
 
hehehehe,

Well certainly dont feel like a moron matt as your giving a lot of us here quite an insight into whats achievable right now, i thought it would be a few years before things looked this good. VOOOOOT!!!
Suffice to say my bike is waiting for rc gear as soon as you tell me it's solid and i dont even have it back from its last upgrade,lol :mrgreen:
You only have to look at the "using rc motors thread" to see the impact of yours,scotts,miles's builds :D rock on dudes 8)


Cheers


D
 
I can say the HV110 is solid up to 120 amps IF the power supply is good enough. I would say, 10 guage wire with no more than 10 inches of wire from the pack to the ESC board. If you do that, and stay under 120 amps, no problem at all.

Remember, I put well over 200 miles on my bike with the AXI keeping the current at or under 120 amps under accelleration without any problems at all. It wasn't untill I installed that monster Terminator motor :twisted: that the current went WAY up to 150 amps with inadequate wiring.

So, again, HV110 staying at 120 amps with stout wiring that is short and you are good to go.

Matt
 
recumpence said:
So, again, HV110 staying at 120 amps with stout wiring that is short and you are good to go.
Click to expand...
Must...

Have.....

More..........

Powerrrrrrrrrrrrr.......... :twisted:


Altho, the throttle ballistics you describe are similar to a preset in the Altrax... keeps the initial amps relatively low to save brushes and batts.
 
TylerDurden said:
recumpence said:
So, again, HV110 staying at 120 amps with stout wiring that is short and you are good to go.
Click to expand...
Must...

Have.....

More..........

Powerrrrrrrrrrrrr.......... :twisted:


Altho, the throttle ballistics you describe are similar to a preset in the Altrax... keeps the initial amps relatively low to save brushes and batts.
Click to expand...
Very cool!

Oh, in case anyone is concerned about my comment regarding the throttle arming issue, I know from RC experience there is a small item called a "Pixtix" (pronounced "Pie-Sticks) that is designed to reorient the pulse width to make odd transmitters (remember, this is for RC use) work with various ESCs that do not want to arm properly. It is actually designed to eliminate reverse, if I am remembering right. But, a number of guys use them to cure arming issues. It is a $14 part. If I need to, I will use one to simplify arming.

Anyway, I will probably wire up some connectors to check teh arming sequence this weekend, with, or without my other electronics arriving.

Speaking of which, I also ordered some small box fans to cool this thing. The liquid cooling may be a bit too much stuff to pack under the seat. So, a few fans should keep it nice and cool.

Lastly, I just ordered two Avid BB7 calipers for my front brake. I currently have a single BB5. I need more brake pad area and the easiest way to achieve that is with two calipers. They will be gripping the same front rotor because I have a mono blade fork. But, it should work fine. Basically, if I am too hard on the front brake, I can glaze the rotor causing the brake to sing. So, keeping the pad pressure down per square inch of area will eliminate this problem. It should also have even better feel than it does now because I am just slightly over using that brake when I stop hard from 40mph.

Matt
 
the pistix adapter won't work in this situation... it is made to use aircraft esc with pistolgrip transmitters.

http://www.rc-hydros.com/pistix.html

and it is discontinued
 
I didn't know it was discontinued. But, yes it does work for this situation. The guys at RC-Monster.com use it for radio programming when they have issues with trigger centering.

Matt
 
I decided not to run the Hydra ESC right away. Instead I installed a repaired HV110 with updated wiring.

Here's what I did;

#1 Shortened all power wires.

#2 Doubled up connectors.

#3 Eliminated a bunch of adaptors with numerous connectors joining all parts together.

When I took the electrical system apart I found that I had 25 inches of 12 guage wire from the cells to the ESC board. Not good. Beyond that, I had a 20 inch wire loop connecting one 6 cell pack to the other for a 12S configuration. I shortened the cell connecting look from 20 inches to 4 inches. Then I shortened the 25 inch harness to 6 inches (from cell tabs to ESC board). Also, there are now two runs of 12 guage wire from the pack to the ESC with two deans connectors parralleled. So, the two deans wil be splitting the load.

In my old setup, the two packs were joined with a series "Y" adaptor with Deans connectors. This was eliminated for a direct 12S connection without using the "Y" cable and its corresponding Deans connectors. Then I soldered two runs of wire directly to the ESC board with (again) two Deans in parrallel. Lastly, I eliminated the bullet connectors for my motor in favor of a Deans connector for each motor wire. That way, each motor wire has two spades per connection by using an entire two prong Deans per wire. I also eliminated the two Deans that my data logger used.

Man, I had alot of connectors in series. No wonder my ESC fried. I cannot believe it lasted 300 miles like that.

I have ESC caps on order. But, they are not in yet.

It is charging right now waiting for the maiden voyage.

Matt
 
I ordered 1000MF 50 volt caps from Digikey.

I just got back from a 4.38 mile ride (19WH per mile). It ran fine. The motor wires had no heat. They used to heat up noticeably. The ESC is mounted under the seat with no airflow to the heatsink. It was about 130 degrees (hot to the touch, but not too hot to hold my finger on it) when I checked it right after a good solid accelleration run. Not too bad. The ESC wiring was warm. However, that wiring is right behind the ESC in tight confines. My guess is the heat is from the ESC heat transfering to the wires, not from inductance. I have a few small fans. I will mount them next to the ESC soon.

John Holmes, do you know how much heat the ESC is OK with?

Anyway, it ran a tiny bit smoother with a very faint change in motor whine. I would assume that is the higher voltage getting to the motor. :)

I need to mave a couple small items around and overall clean up the ESC location and what-not.

I will keep you guys posted.

Matt
 
nieles said:
what caps did you order?

it should do al lot better efficiency wise..more power to the rear wheel :twisted:
Click to expand...

I think so. The efficiency is up a touch on this run as it is. I accellerated and slowed alot. Normally my WH per mile would be about 21 to 22 WH per mile with that kind of running.

At this point, I am done with pushing for harder and harder accelleration. I want to enjoy the bike and put miles on it. Heck, it keeps up with the typical accelleration of most cars on the road. That is enough. Of course, it does accellerate hard if I snug up the clutch and go for it. :wink:

Matt
 
An acceptable level of heat measured on the heatsink is 200-220f max. I prefer to keep my electrics under 150f unless I am pushing them for a reason.

I got some good info on the industrials today, and we can get an external serial "card" with rotary dial to adjust the max amp draw. It sounded like there was a few ways to adjust the load with the firmware and software, I couldn't follow the ways fully. I will call the engineer on monday to get some details on it.
 
Cool.

I did a 6.26 mile ride this morning with 3 miles wide open at 38 to 40mph and the other half at 25 to 30 mph. In that run I averaged 24.5 WH per mile. Not too bad.

Oh, someone here recommended, a while back, a two into one cable adaptor. Does anyone know where I could find that item? This is for my dual front brake caliper setup. I can make one at the shop, but I would rather pay the nine bucks for one ready made than spend an hour machinging one. :wink:

Matt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
E-bike project
Replies
5
Views
582
amberwolf
amberwolf
Josh K.
Josh K. Precision E Bikes Service station, Electric Bike Review
Replies
1
Views
665
Josh K.
Josh K.
M
Can I use my 3-phase e-bike motor as a generator with rectifier?
Replies
5
Views
732
crossbreak
crossbreak
R
Various E-bike Motor Performance Comparisons recorded with Komoot, Strava and Garmin
Replies
4
Views
1,085
docw009
docw009
H
Mobile DJ booth e-tricycle conversion project
Replies
2
Views
690
heybudday
H
Back
Top