Update on my ezip

Well, mine certainly does have speed limitation.
 
Jay64 said:
Well, after hearing that others are running 36v with their ezip without blowing up their stock controller I started to build a quick ghetto DeWalt pack. But then I remembered that my bike cuts out at 20 mph, which it already hits with my 28v Milwaukee packs, so why should I bother putting 36v on it? All that would do would add top speed, right? But if it cuts off at a set speed, then the extra volts wouldn't make a difference, would it?

Hi Jay.. i thought adding the extra voltage could also increase your distance depending on how much throttle you put into your ride. My motor doesn't cutoff, but when i hear it screaming because of speed, i ease up on the throttle, so perhaps i just haven't allowed it to cutoff on its own.

Tyler.. how is it we find out if there is speed cutoff on the motor?
 
How2 said:
Tyler.. how is it we find out if there is speed cutoff on the motor?
I dunno... I suppose over-volting is one way: you should be able to exceed the speed limit (32kph?) if there is none.

Maybe coasting down a hill >32kph (or whatever the limit might be) at zero throttle, then go full-throttle and see if there is a speed increase.

Anybody??

:?
 
I believe for mine it is a contoller speed limit. I guess I will try to wire up the 36v packs and see if it goes faster then the limit or not. Maybe it is a ratio of the availalbe power.
 
Jay64 said:
I believe for mine it is a contoller speed limit. I guess I will try to wire up the 36v packs and see if it goes faster then the limit or not. Maybe it is a ratio of the availalbe power.

hi jay.. not sure if there is a difference but it looks like you have the '07 model and ecoforumz and i have the '08. Eco got 27mph when he put 36v on it. Perhaps your year's model has a limiter in the control box?
 
yes, I do have an '07 model. And I definately have a limiter. So I guess I will not test the 36v setup on this until I buy a different controller. I'm really close on my motorcycle build right now anyways, so I am paying more attention to that at the moment.
 
How2 said:
EcoForumZ said:
K&N Model # SN-2580PK I bought it from K&N's website they are located in Riverside, CA so I got it the next day.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4687&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30

hello again Eco.. can I ask what you paid for this beauty of a filter? Because I am out of state, I have to find a local store here that carries it. According to their website, there are about 4 possible stores within 6 miles of me so hopefully I'll strike gold... but wondered what the price is. Thanks again!

Sorry for the late reply. I paid under $20 including shipping and tax.
 
Jay64 said:
yes, I do have an '07 model. And I definately have a limiter. So I guess I will not test the 36v setup on this until I buy a different controller. I'm really close on my motorcycle build right now anyways, so I am paying more attention to that at the moment.

My 36v lifepo4 battery tests at 42v so I would check your battery and see how many volts it is testing at with a full charge. Then I would see if that same amount of volts is getting to the motor by either splicing into the wires or just remove the front of the motor and run a test off of the wires there at full throttle. If the full voltage is not making it to the motor then something is defenitly limiting you.

Also I did see a strange box with a dial on it inside with my controller and am not sure what that is used for if you have the same thing it may be worth while to turn it 90 degrees in each direction and see what it does but make sure you mark the original location so you can put it back after your done.
 
Yeah, that box was brought up in another one of my threads when I first got the ezip and was having problems with it. If I remember correctly, that box came out of the PAS sensor at the crank. My problem is that the box in the frame that the controller and everything is in, is so cramed with stuff that it makes it really hard to get everything to fit in there. Every time I take that plate off and mess with the wires, it takes me forever to get them all to fit back in. That causes me to not be too eager to experiment with anything in there.
 
The CX24V450 that Tyler and I have dont have any limiters or pedal first hall devices! Same motor and possibly same controller. Therefor the limiter may be with the pedelec stuff! Please take pictures of the electronics if U can easily get to them!
otherDoc
 
Hey EcoForumZ! Did U drill any holez yet? I really like the torque curve of the My1018 and even if my 16" hub is successful, I may keep the chain drive motor system. The noise level is almost tolerable with the sound deadener, and with Lifepo4z it works great!
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Hey EcoForumZ! Did U drill any holez yet? I really like the torque curve of the My1018 and even if my 16" hub is successful, I may keep the chain drive motor system. The noise level is almost tolerable with the sound deadener, and with Lifepo4z it works great!
otherDoc

Yes I did now the motor stays nice and cool. I created a video on how to do this because I wanted to test out my speach software.



See the video with robot voice instructions here

http://youtube.com/watch?v=HvdE8Fxj1P8

Special thanks to TD and everybody else that first performed this modification.
 
You need a sexy avatar to go with the voice! Drill holes ASAP! Get filter! Kool!
otherdoc
 
Jay64 said:
Ok, now i know why I didn't do that plan earlier. It can't be done. I have to take out the battery contacts (which I can't do when the battery is in place) in order to take off the wires that connect them to the bike. So I got frustrated with the whole non-working lock mechanism and took a screwdriver and hammer to it. Bent it out of the way and slid the battery pack out. The stock pack weighs 15 lbs. The two Milwaukee 28v packs I am replacing it with weigh about 3 lbs. 3 of them come out to exactly 5 lbs. (At least those are the numbers off my crude bathroom scale, so I guess I shouldn't say 'exactly'.) I think I will be able to re-charge the 28v packs at work. A little less obvious then a big cord going right to my bicycle in the middle of the break room. So I will be able to make it back home with no problems without the support of the stock pack. I will try to build another box that has room for 3 of the packs to give a little farther range, then I should be able to make it back home with out re-charging if I have to.

One thing I noticed while working on the bike today is that the motor chain is a bit loose. I looked through the manual on how to adjust it and there is nothing in there regarding the electric portion of the bike. Everything in there is just regular bicycle stuff. So I figured I would try to just wing it. I found the two slotted wholes on the mount plate and loosened those bolts and I tried to adjust the bolt that looks to be an adjuster bolt, but it wouldn't budge. There looks to be a very skinny nut on the axle between the frame and the motor mount plate. I'm guessing that I might need to loosen that, but I don't have a wrench in that size which is that skinny. From the looks of it, I have to take the wheel/motor completely off the bike in order to adjust it. That seems really ridiculus to me.
Jay I'm not sure if someone answered this or not. I can't check right now. The chain adjust is in my owner's manual and the one on the web. The wrench you need is a 17mm cone wrench.
 
Question for Tyler or others: Where's a good place to buy a backup Unite MY1018? My eZip now has about 1500 miles and I depend on it. I would like to play safe. Hopefully Currie compatible mount holes but the low price like you have mentioned.
 
vanilla ice said:
The 24v is $50 at TNCscooters last time I checked.
vanilla thanks, but the Unite page (http://en.unitemotor.com/ProductView_41.html) shows 2 models of 1018 one @ 24V 250 w and one @ 450 W. Currie says there using the 450 w. TNC sells the 250 w. I'd like to find the 450w version. Torque for 450 is rated 1.43 Neut M for 250 it is 0.87 Neut M.
 
I think its the same motor! Not sure about windings, but I may get the 36 volt replacement and up the voltage. It will certainly work at 36 volts, and that may be the torque increase noted. Call TNC. They talk tech!
otherDoc
 
If the chart is correct, the winding will be different. No-load speeds are ~3100rpm v. ~4000rpm.

The armatures should be compared for winding count, wire gauge and number & thickness of lams.
 
Didn't the dude with the dual 1018 Currie get the 2nd motor get it at TNC? He never mentioned any problems with the motors behaving differently.
 
vanilla ice said:
Didn't the dude with the dual 1018 Currie get the 2nd motor get it at TNC? He never mentioned any problems with the motors behaving differently.
I think yer correct, but we really don't know what he's got in the case... I don't recall any noload comparisons before installation.
:?
 
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