verdict on mtb/moto tyres

markz said:
RibMo and Marathon Plus are both touted as a puncture resistance tire.

In my personal observation, they're similar in terms of puncture protection. They're not even in the same ballpark in terms of ride quality, handling quality, or performance. The RiBMo is overwhelmingly superior in all these areas.
 
I am torn, Schwalbe magic Mary Bike Park from Chain Reaction for $28cdn is a very reasonable price, I like the tread on them too. Or the Shinko SR244 all in for $80. Or BOTH! Not much of a good selection of Tire Liners at chain reaction, so I got enough tubes that I could easily layer a few in.
 
I have one bike with a magic mary in front and SR244 rear. They work quite well together. The Magic Mary wears down considerably quicker at a rate of about 3 to 1 when you ride it on the street.
 
There are 7 Magic Mary models - Which one do you have?
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/offroad-reader/magic-mary.html
Downhill Ultra Soft
Super Gravity Ultra Soft
Super Gravity Soft
TLE Apex Soft
^Speedgrip
TLE Soft
or
Bike Park

Schalbe Magic Mary.jpg
 
ecycler said:
I have one bike with a magic mary in front and SR244 rear. They work quite well together. The Magic Mary wears down considerably quicker at a rate of about 3 to 1 when you ride it on the street.
Riding the streets with a dirt tire, I would hope that it is worn to almost slick ASAP. Other than snowy winter days, knobbies are noisy and inefficient on pavement.
 
When you live in a city and want to ride your bike to the trails and fun spots, it is unavoidable. We all have our own styles and places where different combos make sense. That is why I keep a garage full of bikes with different setups. 8) They last surprisingly (acceptably in my case) long even with aggressive riding on the street.

The names of the compounds have changed over the years, but I am pretty sure the SuperGravity I Soft is what I am on these days. It definitely makes some rumbling noise at speeds above 35mph, but sticks like crazy on every surface I have tried.
 
ecycler said:
When you live in a city and want to ride your bike to the trails and fun spots, it is unavoidable. We all have our own styles and places where different combos make sense. That is why I keep a garage full of bikes with different setups...

That is why I keep only 2, one dirt bike and one city commuter, both optimized for the purpose they are built for.
 
I'll put here few numbers regarding wheels and you can decide or correct what is heavy what is light.

Bicycle wheel:
Tipical 26'' ready to ride front bicycle narrow wheel less 2kg (narrow alum rim, narrow 2'' tyre)
Little bit more beefy ready to ride front bicycle wheel 26'' up to 3kg (the same narrow rim, but wider tyre), maybe even 3.5kg with fat rim and offroad tyre.
rim from 400g (regular) to 1,3kg (fat bike)
tyre from 500g (narrow) to 1,5kg (offroad 3'')

MC wheel
17'' x 1.4'' alum rim can be 1kg,
17'' x 1.6 alum rim about 1.3kg,
Narrow skinny 2 ply tyre of width 2'' - 2.75'' ranges from 1.8kg to 3kg,
13G / 2.6mm spokes about 400g,
tube - 500g.

If you use light mc components for your rear wheel than you might get few kg over than using very light bicycle components for rear wheel and be equal by using heavy fat bicycle parts.

If you go mc rear rim than main rule is go with alum rim and light tire. Moped tyre is basically less material by having less plys softer sides for speeds up to 80km/h or 100km/h. Less than 2 kg is very light moped tyre usually for light skinny moped.

But if you really want to save weight than carbon instead steel/alum.
 
MadRhino said:
I found a neat improvement using 65mm rims, in both puncture resistance and tire wear.
Coming from what (re inner rim width)?
And what tires are you using?
 
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