Wireless Wii Nunchuck *TESTERS WANTED
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austindavid
100 W
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Nope, the emf can go either direction
austindavid
100 W
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Pontation said:It worked like a charm even despite my somewhat shoddy solder job
Thanks for the help and for a really cool product!
Awesome!
Hi im having problems with the range/Interference issues when using the wiiceiver using a NYKO kama. When im going along the remote will just cut out and i have to lean down soo it is close to the board to reconnect again. I had it mounted under the board next to my esc with the ferrite ring looped several times and i had frequent dropouts. At the moment it is mounted on top of the board (sits ontop of the trucks due to fact that it is a dropthough board and i could feed a wire through there) and im still getting dropouts and interference. Any suggestions?
austindavid
100 W
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Hi Octane-
From what you describe I assume this is a legit wireless signal loss in the Kama, and not the inactivity timeout in Wiiceiver. You can tell because in the wireless dropout, the LED on your handset will start flashing. If it's the inactivity thing, that LED will stay solid but Wiiceiver will start flashing like nuts until you jiggle the chuck.
Step #1: change the batteries. Better charge == better signal, at least for me. I don't know why, it shouldn't work that way, but if I start having interference issues it's always the batteries.
I've had some success removing the plastic cover on the Kama base, and laying out the antenna inside. You can use your thumb on the back surface to separate the halves. The little board inside is connected with 5 small / fragile wires. Lay it flat (so it's flat against your deck), and be sure to protect it + the wires with 3/4" heat shrink, or electrical tape.
That seems to help with interference issues.
From what you describe I assume this is a legit wireless signal loss in the Kama, and not the inactivity timeout in Wiiceiver. You can tell because in the wireless dropout, the LED on your handset will start flashing. If it's the inactivity thing, that LED will stay solid but Wiiceiver will start flashing like nuts until you jiggle the chuck.
Step #1: change the batteries. Better charge == better signal, at least for me. I don't know why, it shouldn't work that way, but if I start having interference issues it's always the batteries.
I've had some success removing the plastic cover on the Kama base, and laying out the antenna inside. You can use your thumb on the back surface to separate the halves. The little board inside is connected with 5 small / fragile wires. Lay it flat (so it's flat against your deck), and be sure to protect it + the wires with 3/4" heat shrink, or electrical tape.
That seems to help with interference issues.
hillzofvalp
100 kW
I'm going to launch an eboard product later this year. I am considering offering a hand remote as an optional feature to the standard foot control. If we can collaborate and optimize the board to plug into my main board as a daughter card, then I may be able to help bump up your volumes.
I'm not super interested in doing so... but some people do prefer hand throttle, especially inexperienced boarders. It is extremely smart to use the wii nunchuk. I'm surprised boosted and other eboard companies make their own hand control given the availability of the nunchuk already. One of the many reasons their products are priced high.
I'm not super interested in doing so... but some people do prefer hand throttle, especially inexperienced boarders. It is extremely smart to use the wii nunchuk. I'm surprised boosted and other eboard companies make their own hand control given the availability of the nunchuk already. One of the many reasons their products are priced high.
I have a funny problem. I can ride with the wiiceiver and the nyko kama fine but I can't turn off my ESC without first turning off the chuck. Before with another Rx/Tx solution I would hold the esc power button for a few seconds and upon releasing it the esc would power down. With the wiiceiver and chuck still active this doesn't happen, the esc stays turned on. Any ideas of what's going on?
austindavid
100 W
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- Apr 15, 2014
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Pontation said:
I've never heard of that method of powering down an ESC. Have you calibrated your nunchuck? It's possible the wiiceiver thinks your chuck is slightly off-center and is sending a very small up or down throttle. Not enough to move the ESC, but enough for it to think you are being active.
I have calibrated the chuck and it seems to work good otherwise. Yes I suppose something like that is going on, in fact I've just noticed that the esc keeps blinking and while it is, I can't turn it off. It stops blinking if I hold full brake for a second and at that point I'm able to turn it off. I can probably live with that behaviour as long as it isn't a symptom of something bad which might cause an accident later. I'll probably just try recalibrating both the esc and the wiiceiver and see if I can get it working right.
austindavid
100 W
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Just doing the wiiceiver calibration should fix any problems with idle != 0; once it's correctly calibrated you'll have a dead spot of about 5% throttle.
An interesting experiment woul dbe to leave your chuck on the ground for a few seconds and let wiiceiver think it's dropped. The red/green will flash alternately when it goes into the timeout mode. I'm curious if you could power off the ESC then? In that state wiiceiver is definitely sending the 1500us idle pulse.
Apart from that I really don't know what it could be; I've never heard of this "power yourself off" function for an ESC before, so I'm not sure what it requires from a controller. If you want to experiment I could show you how to get the wiiceiver to drop the servo connection, in case your ESC is looking for *no* pulses.
An interesting experiment woul dbe to leave your chuck on the ground for a few seconds and let wiiceiver think it's dropped. The red/green will flash alternately when it goes into the timeout mode. I'm curious if you could power off the ESC then? In that state wiiceiver is definitely sending the 1500us idle pulse.
Apart from that I really don't know what it could be; I've never heard of this "power yourself off" function for an ESC before, so I'm not sure what it requires from a controller. If you want to experiment I could show you how to get the wiiceiver to drop the servo connection, in case your ESC is looking for *no* pulses.
Hey
I just got my receiver and was wondering a few things. First off, I see there are pins for it to be reprogrammed. What order are they in? There covered with with shrink plastic which I would rather not take off.
Also my nunchuk's analog resting state isn't constant. It seems to jump between 129 and 130 which has the board running slightly and is very annoying. Has anyone else experienced this?
And is anyone currently looking into modifying a nunchuk to worth with an 2.4ghz wireless transceivers?
Best,
Luke
I just got my receiver and was wondering a few things. First off, I see there are pins for it to be reprogrammed. What order are they in? There covered with with shrink plastic which I would rather not take off.
Also my nunchuk's analog resting state isn't constant. It seems to jump between 129 and 130 which has the board running slightly and is very annoying. Has anyone else experienced this?
And is anyone currently looking into modifying a nunchuk to worth with an 2.4ghz wireless transceivers?
Best,
Luke
torqueboards
1 MW
As for 2.4ghz, You can checkout Austin's site - http://austindavid.com/jm3/index.php/hardware/3-wiiceiver
You can find instructions here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OMyipDXwUIevf9hT1LSHdhx5EEQ6rP9OY-iQ6avuLok/edit
Pinouts are, you can see #1 on the board.
5V -> #1
RESET -> #2
RX 0 -> #3
TX 1 -> #4
<empty> #5
GROUND -> #6
You can just cut the heatshrink with a blade and cut around it.
You can find instructions here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OMyipDXwUIevf9hT1LSHdhx5EEQ6rP9OY-iQ6avuLok/edit
Pinouts are, you can see #1 on the board.
5V -> #1
RESET -> #2
RX 0 -> #3
TX 1 -> #4
<empty> #5
GROUND -> #6
You can just cut the heatshrink with a blade and cut around it.
austindavid
100 W
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 204
I'm working on it. I have a couple prototypes but they're hard to make. Software is /mostly/ complete -- I'm still cleaning up the binding logic. When that's done you can have more than one controller in a 30' space.
Cost and manufacturing are still too hard. I have a prototype PCB which would make it much easier to assemble, but there's still a ways to go.
- buy a small microcontroller unit (Adafruit Trinket Pro + backpack) & battery
- use an FTDI programmer (Adafruit or SparkFun, about $18)
- solder the 4 internal wires in a nunchuck to that
- also add a power button, maybe LEDs (requires cutting the nunchuck + more soldering)
- add the NRF24L01+ module (8 more solders, but not hard)
...
- also basically make a classic wiiceiver (similar soldering to the old kit)
Cost is about $75 right now, plus a ton of fairly challenging wiring / soldering. I'm still bringing it down.
Cost and manufacturing are still too hard. I have a prototype PCB which would make it much easier to assemble, but there's still a ways to go.
- buy a small microcontroller unit (Adafruit Trinket Pro + backpack) & battery
- use an FTDI programmer (Adafruit or SparkFun, about $18)
- solder the 4 internal wires in a nunchuck to that
- also add a power button, maybe LEDs (requires cutting the nunchuck + more soldering)
- add the NRF24L01+ module (8 more solders, but not hard)
...
- also basically make a classic wiiceiver (similar soldering to the old kit)
Cost is about $75 right now, plus a ton of fairly challenging wiring / soldering. I'm still bringing it down.
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