Anyways, I thought I toss this out there - the markings (and chip used) on this board seem to be very similar to the board posted earlier in the thread. I've mapped out where all of the coloured wires go, and what the do (though I have no idea how the "alarm" feature is used), so FWIW - this is the diagram:
XLD500WController.jpg
The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.
Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.
The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB
The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.
The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.
The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.
The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.
The "autometer signal" is interesting. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. It's blue, and connected to "S+". I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun.
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.
Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".
Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).
Dunno if any of this is useful, but its the first time I've had my mitts on one of these "X806M" based controllers.
I'm dubious about the "sine wave" output of this thing. So far, the motor I'm playing with sounds exactly the same as it did with the older model Infineon job that was previously on there.