Yamaha YZ250F

[speedy1984]

Asked again fella and got this from the man himself

 

[j bjork]

I have had some questions about how I bypass the bms on discharge, but keep the battery protection and amp measurement.
So I thought this time I will take some pictures and try to explain the steps.

I start with this:

I unsolder the wires and take it apart so I can access the power board:

Unsolder the shunts and solder a big wire on the copper and a small to the pad where the shunts were connected.
That pad is connected to trace where the input voltage before the shunts is measured, so that still has to be connected before the shunts.

This step might not be necessary, but I cut the trace that goes from the copper that the big blue wire is connected to and solder on a small sense wire.
If I dont do that, the blue wires resistance will effect the measurement when charging the battery. (or other loads that goes trough the bms)

The orange wire comes from the batteries negative. Before the shunts I have added a blue/white wire that will connect to the blue/white on the bms.
In the lug after the shunt I will connect a big wire that will exit the battery, the blue and the thin black sense wire on the bms.

This way the bms measure the current that is bypassed and the current that passes through the bms the same.
But for it to be able to cut the bypassed current:

The big wire goes to the charger, the smaller for ignition relay, dc-dc converter for the contactors etc.
So if the bms trips, the "ignition" turns off and the contactors open.
This will take a while (seconds), so if there is a short in the controller or something like that it is the fuse that has to take it.
That can be improved with a fast, more advanced pre charge controller between the dc-dc converter and contactors.

 

[j bjork]

My controller was on pre order until early march. When I made the order I didnt hear anything, when the date passed I wrote a question asking if it would ship soon.
Then I got a reply quick saying it would ship in the last week of march or something like that. When that passed I wrote again asking for a status update but havent got any replay in at least a week.

I understand that things dosent always go as planned, and they may be very busy. But when they set a date and take all the money in advance they should at least make sure to keep the buyers updated.

In all fairness I must add that I just saw that I got a reply 30/3 that I somehow missed.
So it has been the pre order ended 7:th march I think. When I didnt hear anything in a day or 2 I wrote a question that was answered quick.
At that point was told it was ready to be shipped in 14 days and I was going to be updated with the progress.
The 24/3 I wrote again asking for an update, 30/3 I got a reply saying the boards are finished but they are waiting for the casings.
Maybe soon then

 

[speedy1984]

 

[j bjork]

Not very much new to show so I just post some of those muddy pictures after today:s ride:

It was the muddiest track I ever have ridden, real "novemberkåsa" practice
(For those that dosent know what "novemberkåsan" is, do a search on youtube)

Winter tires off, and mousse both front and rear now.
It wasnt nearly as hard as last time, actually the front was a little to easy now.
I think the problem was that the mousse was for a 90/90-21" tire, but the site where I bought it sold the same mousse for 80/100-21"
My winter tire was 80/100-21", and it seems like the 90/90-21" I have now is bigger.
I guess when I ran it in the winter tire it shrunk, so in this tire it is too soft.

 

[Eastwood]

Not very much new to show so I just post some of those muddy pictures after today:s ride:

Nice and muddy!! I have some local trails in where my bike gets muddy like this. It’s fun while riding, but not the clean up part.

Winter tires off, and mousse both front and rear now.

So, I guess you’re liking the mousses? It’s definitely a positive, not having to worry about a flat in a race.

 

[j bjork]

I'm not sure about the mousses yet, I think this time the front got too soft after a while. It didnt feel connected to the ground properly, almost like driving with a flat. The wintertire was rockhard all the time. I suppose it is rather sensitive what mousses you use for what tires..
I have also heard some tires are big or small for their dimensions, so you might need another mousse.
The rear got pretty soft too, but I think it felt good and good traction. I plan to to pick up a airmousse 90/100-21" 1bar tomorrow and try. (I have 90/100 tires too)
I think I rather have a bit hard front tire than a bit soft.

Our tire dimensions are a bit weird. It is width in mm, then height in % of width, and finally for rim diameter in inches

The rear tires are interesting too, mx bikes have 19", enduro 18". But there are 18" mx tires that most enduro riders use, because they have deeper groove, those tires are usually 110/100-18". Enduro tires are usually 120/90-18" or 140/80-18". At least technomousse only have 18" mousses in enduro dimensions
I have a 120/90-18" in my 110/100-18" tire now..
I suppose there are some things to figure out when it comes to mousses..

 

[Eastwood]

Here’s another option for you, it’s called Mousse balls

With the mousse balls, you can add extra pieces or take away to get the desired psi feeling instead of having one continuous mousse like the nitro, mousses, etc. A buddy of mine that races hard Enduro says he loves this product over the traditional mousses. Personally, I haven’t tried them yet.

MR. WOLF MOUSSE BALLS REAR 150/70, 140/80, 130/90, 120/100, 110/100-18", or 120/80-19" - PLEASE SEE DESCRIPTION REGARDING SIZING - InnTeck USA

Mr. Wolf’s Mousse Balls are the link between versatility of an inner tube and the anti-puncture and performance features of a traditional mousse. Thanks to the innovative and patented segmented structure, it is possible to completely customize the firmness according to terrain conditions and...

innteck-usa.com

 

[j bjork]

I just remembered to use the like button
I think I have seen those some time, but not for sale anywhere around here that I am aware of.
For now I will stick with the mousses, and see where it leads. I was going to get a 1bar airmousse for the front, but when I got there they didnt have it. I had to settle with a 0,7bar. It was pretty hard to get in, so I suppose it wasnt too small at least..

I went for a ride at the same track on Wednesday too. It had already dried up a lot, and they had rerouted the track around some of the biggest mudholes.
Still it was muddy enough for the bike (and rider) to get really dirty

I had a little crash and broke the bracket for the hand guard on the other side. (I have already made a new one on the left side)

It is ready for tomorrows ride now, with new chain and sprockets, foot pegs and brake pads.

Btw. I got a note on Sunday that my controller will ship on Tuesday.
On Thursday I sent a mail asking for updates as it still says processing on the order.
So far no answer.

 

[Eastwood]

My controller was on pre order until early march. When I made the order I didnt hear anything, when the date passed I wrote a question asking if it would ship soon.
Then I got a reply quick saying it would ship in the last week of march or something like that. When that passed I wrote again asking for a status update but havent got any replay in at least a week.

I understand that things dosent always go as planned, and they may be very busy. But when they set a date and take all the money in advance they should at least make sure to keep the buyers updated.

Did you order directly from shul motors website? I’m about to pull the trigger on the CL700 30s Version…

ordered a cl1000 vesc that I will be running at 30s voltage.I planning on keeping it super simple with no jack shaft ect

Sounds like you’re moving up to the QS 180?

 

[TysonScott]

Hi, Bjork. I also ordered something from 3shul and they said it would ship out on Tuesday. I haven't received any email or anything but I messaged Hackey and he said he was (or is i cant really tell from the msg) out of town.

 

[speedy1984]

Yeah wanted a motor that could run high power levels but on deep sand tracks without melting.Building a mint 2021 kxf250 atm purely for mx.Will be 40plus kw at nominal voltage and 1000ph amps should be more than enough to get me in trouble lol



Sounds like you’re moving up to the QS 180?

 

[j bjork]

Eastwood, yes I ordered directly from their website.
Maybe they just meant it will ship on a Tuesday, not necessarily the next one

It was an eventful practice this Sunday.
On the first lap I crashed and broke the left handguard, bent the rear sprocket and put a dent in the swingarm

I took off the handguard and managed to straiten the sprocket after I was able to get back to the pit.
On the second lap I crashed again on the same spot and bent the "dash panel"

This is supposed to be in a 90 degree angle..

After that I made some really good times, I noticed I did the third in 17:15. I dont think I was ever under 18:xx last year.
On the forth I gave it all for a solid 16min time, but I had to stop and help another rider whose bike had stopped.

On the fifth I made a mistake in a curve and hit a tree, and I didnt have a handguard anymore as I broke it on the first lap..
That hurt, and I lost a lot of time. But still made a 16:54. My fingers have strange red dots on the inside now.. On the sixth lap I made a 16:50

 

[Eastwood]

Eastwood, yes I ordered directly from their website.
Maybe they just meant it will ship on a Tuesday, not necessarily the next one

Did you go with the CL1000? I read back through your thread, but couldn’t find if you mention which one you ordered.

My fingers have strange red dots on the inside now.

You probably just busted a blood vessel, when you get those red dots it’s called “petechiae”.

 

[j bjork]

CL1400. The price difference was a bit much, but I didnt want to end up wondering what a little more phase amps could do.

 

[j bjork]

I was a little annoyed that a week had passed since my controller was supposed to be sent and I had not heard anything.
During that time, I have also sent an email asking for updates to which I have not received a reply. I pointed that out and that I think the least you can ask for when they've taken the money up front is to be kept up to date.
I got a reply after a few minutes that my controller was in production and should be shipped later this week.

 

[Quinc]

The motivation have been a bit low lately, but I have got a little work done on battery 3:

Cut off the cage.

Carefully splitting the module in half.

Jump a few steps to putting the cage on half a module.

Just ordered a couple of these from jags. Do you have anymore pics on how you connected it after cutting in half? Trying to figure out best way to get mine to 20s.

 

[j bjork]

I take the half that is left of the busbar and straiten it. It is about 10mm high, 20mm wide.
Then I fold a 1mm copper over it and reinforce it with an extra copper piece.
Lastly I drill two holes trough it all and hold it together with 2 m3 screws.

 

[Eastwood]

I was a little annoyed that a week had passed since my controller was supposed to be sent and I had not heard anything.
During that time, I have also sent an email asking for updates to which I have not received a reply. I pointed that out and that I think the least you can ask for when they've taken the money up front is to be kept up to date.
I got a reply after a few minutes that my controller was in production and should be shipped later this week.

Have you tried text messaging him? He replies super quick, but they don’t seem so responsive to their emails. I texted the number they have listed on the website and he responded within minutes. We texted for a good bit about specs and options etc..
Im my case since I ordered recently he said 4 to 6 weeks minimum

 

[j bjork]

Do you send texts to this number: +91-9588965068?
I thought it was a landline, just for calling.
My controller have shipped out now, but it would be nice to have a quick way to reach support if nessecery during installation

 

[Eastwood]

Do you send texts to this number: +91-9588965068?
I thought it was a landline, just for calling.
My controller have shipped out now, but it would be nice to have a quick way to reach support if nessecery during installation

Yep, that’s the number I used WhatsApp to text.
That’s great news, your controller has shipped out! I excited to see that controller connected to your QS 180. The 1400 phase should be real nice
Would like to see your set up on a Dyno to see horsepower and torque output.

I’m sure you know but they do offer a free first time set up with the controller. A scheduled video call or something. When I was chatting, he was telling me they already have tunes available for the QS 138, but they probably have maps available for the QS 180 as well and you could just tweak settings from that.

 

[j bjork]

This turned up on Wednesday:

The controller still has that prototype look:

Looks like they are using a 3d printed mold or something, then paints it?
(or is it the cover itself that is 3d printed? )

Looks like an o-ring is sticking up, should I be worried about how waterproof it is?

A short wiring was included, proper sealed connectors:

 

[JRP3]

Looks like an o-ring is sticking up, should I be worried about how waterproof it is?

Maybe try to poke it back in, and put a bead of sealant around each stud to be safe.

 

[j bjork]

Maybe, I think I will show it to 3 shul and see what they say about it. I want to take the cover off and see how it looks on the inside

 

[TorgueRPM]

I think they are all potted now, that's the white stuff around the connector on the controller. On my CL1000 they covered the hole for pouring in the potting compound with the sticker. Looks like they printed the mold or case diagonally